No, Daddy of TInk, you don't need to give extra insulin if you miss a shot. Mainly because we aren't really sure if that GOT some or didn't. We call it a fur shot and leave it at that. And my Sneakers LOVES the meatloafing position and sometimes I wonder- then I gently feel my fingers down her belly and she doesn't do anything- no flinch, no bite. So I know she is okay. Even a little bit of pressure would be okay. And how did the vet arrive at the dose- are you giving 3 units daily- so 1.5u twice a day (BID) or 3 units each time BID?
You are being a WONDERFUL kitty daddy. Ear tests are the hardest to get started- you need them before every shot- we tell new people that if the cat is under 200- DO NOT SHOOT! Not until you get data and know how low Tink will go on a (semi) consistent basis do you shoot so low. If she goes too low she would go into hypo and that's a scary, scary thing :shock: .
Now- those #'s you said are VERY good ones for a cat (for either nadir or anytime between shots). I wouldn't wonder if she just needs a diet change after the jump start from the insulin- if you are currently giving dry food all it might take is changing to low carb canned food- and we have lists of foods so you don't have to go find it on your own. Hobo's list is the newest but Binky's has more information. Forget the vet food- all it is is a brand name that you are paying for- Purina makes most of the other lower cost food on the shelf- Fancy feast, 9-lives, friskies. It is cheaper and comes in more flavors

(would YOU care to eat liver day in and day out for weeks on end?)
A little bit on the basics:
A few things are needed to combat FD:
The correct and better insulins are Levemir (get the pens), Lantus (get the pens), and ProZinc- they cost more but they are worth it and have excellent track records. Not so good (and vet favs) are Humulin and Canisilun (made for DOGS). My vet started Sneakers out on Humulin after his "exhaustive" research of calling another vet. Meanwhile I was on the computer, looking up all the things I could... Yes, its a sore spot. Needless to say he is no longer my vet.
The correct FOOD (for all your kitties)-
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... hYXc#gid=0 (called Hobo's List)
http://binkyspage.tripod.com/canfood.html (called binky's list)
You want to look for canned food that is low carb. The two lists above are ones that we use- look for the %kcal/carbs- under 10 (5 is better) in both lists. Feed the best you can afford. Most do Fancy Feast, Friskies, 9-lives. This will also help with the UTI- dry food is, well, dry. Canned food has more moisture and when you add water to it the water content is increased- all the better to pee a lot. You do NOT need vet prescription food- it is overpriced, high carbs, and contains high quantities of liver- which most cats won't eat day in and day out. If you bought some just take it back and say your kitty stopped eating it. They should refund even if it is opened.
And for those special needs kitties you have- we have them all- IBS, hyperthyroid, pancreatitis, kidney failure. SOMEONE on the board can help you find the best diet for your cats. I'm just lucky Sneaker is just the little hoover machine with only one problem :lol: .
Home testing-
You need to get a glucometer to test your cat (what kind does your mom have?)- a human one is fine and reliable to use. It reads different than the pet ones but all you really need is the consistency of the levels day in and day out. You might be able to get a free one- there is a spot just at the top of every page that says home testing kits. Here is a link to what's inside:
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=60261
If you purchase one here is a list from Consumer Reports:
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=70140
You need to look at the ones that have the cheapest strips- not the cheapest meter. The meter you will buy once, the strips you will continue to purchase over and over again. A lot of people on the board use the Relion micro/confirm meters from Wal-mart because the strips are the cheapest around- $.36 each and usually easy to get (and you can get the strips even cheaper online through the ADW site). Bayer is another popular one. Stay away from the generic kinds that have the word TRUE in the name- those are inaccurate at higher #'s or don't go above 299- and another bad one is the Freestyle Light with the butterfly on the strips- both of these have led many pet owners to believe their cats were okay when they were really in trouble. And you can do your own curves at home when you hometest- that is cheaper than doing it at the vet.
To keep up with the BG #'s there is a spread sheet (SS) that we link to our signature line. Here is the link to set up:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18207
Incidentals-
- Because your little kitty's BG is so high, I would suggest getting ketosticks (found in the diabetic supply aisle) to test your kitty for ketones that lead to DKA- this is a very serious and deadly (and EXPENSIVE) illness. For $7 you get 50 strips- the best insurance against ketones possible. If you catch it early the easier it is to treat.
- Lancets- for your first box go for the lowest gauge you can find- 26 or 28. His ears won't bleed that much at the start. There are so many u-tube videos out there that can show you how to test the ear. You can either use the lancet pen or free-hand. I free-hand as I feel like I have more control over the pointy end. After the first box is used up you can switch to 31 gauge.
- TREATS! In the videos you see the cats eager to be tested. That is because they are shamelessly bribed into sitting still because of a yummy treat that is given after testing. Freeze-dried chicken, beef, shrimp are no carb treats and there are others out there that get used as well. Give this treat ONLY a poke time- tests or shots. Your cat might not care for treats, mine never did. She just knows it comes before her food