Struggling with BG home testing

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CTB

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Hi everyone,
Thanks so much for this site! It’s an amazing resource.
My cat Wilson was diagnosed with diabetes 8 weeks ago, and we’ve been struggling to stabilise his blood sugar. His last glucose test at the vet 10 days ago was 19mmol/l and though his water drinking has reduced, he’s visibly lost weight, and he’s also sleepy and lethargic all day. He’s currently on 3.5 units of caninsulin a day, and my vet encouraged us to do home BG testing because he thinks coming to the vet is stressing Wilson out. We have an alphatrak 2.

I’m really struggling with it, I’ve tried using a warm cloth in a bag on the back of his ear, Vaseline, massaging his ears. He is hating it, he’s funny about his ears being touched at the best of times, and hates being pinned down and I can’t get any blood out even though I can tell I’m piercing the skin. I think he’d be open to it if I could be faster, but because I’m struggling so much he is desperate to get free and then just goes and hides. I’ve also been trying to entice him with treats but he’s not easily distracted, I couldn’t feed him and do it at the same time for example, I even tried wrapping him like a burrito and he escaped.

It’s really upsetting me, because I’m really worried that he is losing weight and we can’t get his dosage right. I can keep taking him to the vet for blood glucose, but I’d like to get the home testing down and right now it feels like we’ll never get there. Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas?
 
Always aim for the sweet spot warm the ears up first, you can put rice in a sock and put it in the microwave, test it on the inside of your wrist to be sure it's not to hot, like you would test a babies bottle. You can fill a pill bottle with warm water and roll it on the ears also.Just keep rubbing the ears with your fingers to warm them up
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6. As the ears get used to bleeding and grow more capilares, it gets easier to get the amount of blood you need on the first try. If he won’t stand still, you can get the blood onto a clean finger nail and test from there.
When you do get some blood you can try milking the ear.
Get you finger and gently push up toward the blood , more will appear
You will put the cotton round behind his ear in case you poke your finger, after you are done testing you will fold the cotton round over his ear to stop the bleeding , press gently for about 20 seconds until it stops
 
Are you using 26 or 28 gauge lancets and doing it free hand or using the lancing device?
Look at the end of the lancet and you will see one side is pointing up, use that side to poke with
 
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You say he's sleepy and lethargic all day, I know you are trying to test , it could be that dose is too much for him and he could be dropping too low
Did your vet start Wilson on that dose right from the start?
What are you feeding him ? Wet , dry or both?

Are you from Canada? Only asking because here in the US we call it Vetsulin
I am going to tag a few members about the Caninsulin

@Deb & Wink

@JanetNJ

@Panic

Thank you ladies
 
Hi everyone,
Thanks so much for this site! It’s an amazing resource.
My cat Wilson was diagnosed with diabetes 8 weeks ago, and we’ve been struggling to stabilise his blood sugar. His last glucose test at the vet 10 days ago was 19mmol/l and though his water drinking has reduced, he’s visibly lost weight, and he’s also sleepy and lethargic all day. He’s currently on 3.5 units of caninsulin a day, and my vet encouraged us to do home BG testing because he thinks coming to the vet is stressing Wilson out. We have an alphatrak 2.

I’m really struggling with it, I’ve tried using a warm cloth in a bag on the back of his ear, Vaseline, massaging his ears. He is hating it, he’s funny about his ears being touched at the best of times, and hates being pinned down and I can’t get any blood out even though I can tell I’m piercing the skin. I think he’d be open to it if I could be faster, but because I’m struggling so much he is desperate to get free and then just goes and hides. I’ve also been trying to entice him with treats but he’s not easily distracted, I couldn’t feed him and do it at the same time for example, I even tried wrapping him like a burrito and he escaped.

It’s really upsetting me, because I’m really worried that he is losing weight and we can’t get his dosage right. I can keep taking him to the vet for blood glucose, but I’d like to get the home testing down and right now it feels like we’ll never get there. Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas?
I had a lot of trouble starting out testing too. It took me a month just to start getting pre-shot tests. Then after that it was a two person job (luckily my husband was here to help most of the time). We tried the warm sock (he hated it), and I tried holding him in a towel while testing him…that worked but it was not a good method for either of us (growling and hissing and raising his BG from stress). Eventually I started giving him Tiki Tuna only at test time and while he still grumbles and swats at me from time to time it is working much better now (took a while for him to realize this was a test-time only treat…we’re five months in and this just started working). I will just try to test him randomly throughout the day to work on the treat association. If he lets me test him, he gets a treat. If not, I put it away and try again later. This works well for us to try to train him at non-shot times since the stakes are lower. I say all of this just to let you know that you’re not alone…some people make it look/sound really easy, but some cats really are extremely difficult to test. If you look at my spreadsheet you can see that I basically have no numbers for the first month and then eventually some, and more and more…so I know it’s discouraging, but I think you will get there eventually once you find what works for you!
 
I’d like to get the home testing down and right now it feels like we’ll never get there. Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas?
Hello,
Well done, you, for wanting to test. :bighug:
And it's great that your vet is encouraging this (they quite often don't...)

It can take a little while for both human and kitty to get the hang of hometesting. Don't worry, you'll get there. You really 'want' to do it, and that can make a huge difference to the outcome.. (((Hugs)))

My first diabetic was very easy to test, so I was lucky there. But my current girl, an adopted diabetic, absolutely hated having her ears touched at first. And she has these thin flimsy little ears that don't bleed at all well. So, it did take a little while to get her used to hometesting (and I did shed a few tears in frustration at first - which doesn't look pretty on a woman of my age, haha!). ...However, we did get there, and now she goes to her favourite armchair (our testing spot) when she hears me setting up the test kit. :smuggrin:

Many cats don't like to be held or restrained. But distraction can work for quite a few kitties. With my first boy I could pop him up on a table, crumble treats for him, and test him while he was hoovering up the crumbs. But that doesn't work at all for my current girl. The key to success in her case was discovering that she likes to be brushed. I found that if she was on her armchair I could start brushing her, and chatting to her gently; then I could incorporate the blood test into the middle of that brushing session, and she barely noticed the test. ...And that's how we still do it...
So often it is a matter of finding out what works best for the individual cat....

The best advice I can give is that that you work on 'desensitizing and counter-conditioning' (actually very quick and simple techniques with sciencey-sounding names...)
This basically involves getting the kitty to become accustomed to new sensations and sounds in a non-threatening way, and getting them to connect new sensations or sounds with something positive, a reward of some kind, like a treat perhaps, or maybe a little cuddle.
Here's an extract from some info I wrote out for someone else:

GETTING KITTY USED TO BEING TESTED - ‘DESENSITISATION’
...One really useful way to get kitties used to testing is to ‘desensitise’ them to the sensations and sounds involved in the test process. And a really good thing to do at first is to get them more used to having their ears touched. So, whenever you are stroking or cuddling the kitty, or the kitty is trying to wake you at 4am by sitting on your chest and patting your face, use that opportunity to include very gentle ‘ear touching’ when you stroke them, just for a second at first, and not enough to stress them.
The object of the exercise is to try to make ear touching ‘ordinary’ and nothing to fear...
You can also go to wherever the cat is chilling out, then stroke them, hold or massage an ear for a second or two, and then immediately reward with a cat treat and some praise. This starts to condition them to associate ear touching with rewards.

You can also get them used to the test kit itself. For example, you can rattle the test strip container, or click the lancing device a few times (it can be used a bit like a training clicker), and immediately give the kitty a treat. Then just walk away, leaving them with their reward. They can soon come to associate those sounds with rewards just like when they hear the sound of the can opener...

I did these kinds of desensitisation techniques with my kitties about 6 or 7 times a day at first during the first couple of weeks. It only takes a minute or two each time, maybe only seconds. But that repetition is key to success. Repetition, repetition, repetition...

It can be often be helpful at first to test in the same place so as to establish a routine.
I tested my first diabetic on a table top. I test my current girl in her favourite armchair. You can get the kitty used to the test spot by taking or calling them there and just rewarding them with strokes or brushing, or treats. Make the test spot a place where nice things happen.
If you can get the kitty to the test spot and hold or massage an ear for a second or two and then reward with a treat and praise, you really are most of the way to being able to test on a regular basis.

WARMING THE CAT’S EAR BEFORE TESTING.
There is no doubt that warm ears bleed very much more easily than cold ones. You can warm the ear by stroking and massaging it, or you warm it with a pill bottle filled with warm water held against it, or with a ‘rice sock’. A rice sock is made very simply by filling the toe of a thin sock with rice (or other grain), tying with thread or string, and then cutting off some of the excess fabric. This is then heated in the microwave until nicely warm but not ‘hot’.
Some people make their rice socks quite firm, almost like golf balls, and these can be held against the underside of the ear to give some resistance while the outer edge of the ear is pricked. But I made my rice sock soft and squishy like a miniature bean bag, and so that it fits nicely in the palm of my hand. Then I stroke it over Bonbon’s head (she likes the warmth) and down over her ear, holding against the ear for a couple of seconds each time.

- - -
HOMETESTING TIPS & TRICKS

1. WARM EARS. Probably THE most important thing. Warm ears bleed very much more easily than cold ones. You can warm an ear by massaging it, or by holding something warm against it; ie a pill bottle filled with warm water, or a ‘rice sock’ briefly warmed in the microwave.

2. MASSAGING immediately below the ear prick, with finger and thumb, can ‘milk’ more blood out. I almost always do this, if only for a second or two.

3. VASELINE. A teensy weensy smear of Vaseline on the outer edge of the ear will enable the blood to ‘bead up’ and stops it disappearing into the fur. This also makes it easier to see the blood droplet if the kitty has dark ears.

4. RESISTANCE. The lancet needs something to ‘resist’ otherwise it can push the ear away rather than pricking it effectively. Some folks use a piece of cotton wool or folded tissue. I use one of my fingers, but sometimes do accidentally take a blood sample from myself that way.

5. TWO EAR PRICKS close together can often produce enough blood for a test when one ear prick might not.

6. SCOOPING THE BLOOD DROP ONTO YOUR FINGERNAIL. Doing this is a game-changer for some people. If you can get that drop of blood on your finger or thumb nail you can then let the kitty go and finish the test without her/him.

7. TREATS. It is important to reward the kitty for each attempted test, whether the test was ‘successful’ or not. Cats very soon learn to associate tests with treats. And some will soon come running for their tests. A ‘treat’ is usually a food reward of some kind, but some folks reward their kitties with a cuddle or a grooming session. I actually crumble a few treats for my cat and test him while he’s hoovering up the crumbs.

Remember to reward yourself too. Chocolate is good… :cat:

8. GET COMFORTABLE. If you are physically comfortable you’ll be more relaxed, and also less likely to try to rush the process. Some people like to test their cats on a counter top or a desk, maybe next to a desk lamp. Some people prefer to hold their cats on their laps when they test. Some folks incorporate testing into a grooming session. You’ll find what works best for you. And once you get used to home testing you’ll quite possibly be able to do it anywhere, and maybe even while the kitty is asleep.

9. RELAX. Cats pick up on our moods. The more relaxed and ‘matter of fact’ we are, the more relaxed and confident the kitty is likely to be. Some people chat or sing to their cats while they test him. Try it. It might help you too.

10. PATIENCE. Be kind to yourself. You’re learning something new. (And you’re learning something wonderful!) :bighug:

- - -

(I'm sorry about the impersonal nature of the copied and pasted stuff above. I hope that's OK...)

Please do shout out if you need more help. :bighug:

Eliz
 
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