New Here - My Cat Sparks

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Care4Sparks

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Hello,

Newbie here. My cat Sparks was diagnosed a few weeks ago. Part of the reason we brought him in was for neuropathy in his back legs. He was prescribed a 2-unit dose every 12 hours.
He went in one week ago for his glucose curve. They stopped the curve only partway in, and immediately upped his prescription to 4 units.

We got a glucose meter but have been having a lot of trouble getting a sample. Either nothing or too much blood. Tonight's reading was >300.

And I'm really concerned about the neuropathy. It seems to be getting worse. He's even having trouble getting into the litter box (I had to pick him up and help him in twice today). :sad:
I'm giving him 5mg of Methyl-B12 one per day, but it doesn't seem to be doing much (yet?).

I would love to be able to monitor him more closely, but currently with the work situation and challenges checking his level vs the 2x day prescription, the 12 hour interval is the best we can do.

Not really sure what is going on other than I am preoccupied with trying to learn more, make him more comfortable, and increase quality of life.

So I guess this post is just to say hello and let you know where we're at...
Nice to know we're not alone in this.
 
HI!
You aren't anywhere close to "alone" with this. :smile: Welcome to the "family".

The increase from 2u to 4u based on a half a curve is sort of concerning....what sort of numbers did they get at the vet?

Couple questions so we can really start to help you and Sparks -
What type of insulin?
What does Sparks eat every day, and how often?
Were there any other things that came out with the vet tests beside "just diabetes" and neuropathy?

Carl in SC
 
Thank you

The vet's glucose curve: They didn't provide us the numbers, but I think I should stop by and ask for a copy of what they do have...

The insulin is ProZinc

We switched him to wet food, Natural Balance or Fancy Feast, around the time of his diagnosis. He sometimes gets caught eating our other cat's dry food but it's better than some (it's One Earth Naturals) and only a few pieces get left out. The cans say to feed him WAY too much, because he is really heavy, so I'm trying to feed him somewhere around what a ?10lb cat would get. We used to feed him "California Naturals" dry food, exclusively, but he's taken to wet food well. He is extremely voracious. He eats prior to the insulin injections but also snacks (1/4 can) about an hour or so after the injection, and also if we are home around noonish, 4pm , 4am if we wake up. He wants LOTS of food, but even 1/2 can of the Natural Balance (~3 oz) can make him puke, he inhales the food so fast. So, I give him only about a 1/4 can at a time...
Is snacking ok? He was a free feeder all his life and so is struggling with the metered deliveries.

He is obese, but he's also a big boy. Big head, big body. He weighed 21.5 pounds last year, 19.5 lbs 3 weeks ago, and 20.1 lbs last Friday. He's always been big, even before the obesity, such that he earned the nicknames "Beef" and "Linebacker" from friends lucky enough to get a sighting on him.

As part of his diagnosis we had a full series of analyses done (or so they said). His liver, kidneys and other organs are healthy.
The neuropathy wasn't as bad 3 weeks ago as it seems now.

We live near Santa Cruz, CA, in the San Lorenzo Valley.

And I want to monitor him more closely but extracting a good blood sample has been almost impossible - of the last 6 attempts we were only successful once. We use the Freestyle Light meter - the lancets that came with it aren't labeled but seem smaller than the box of 27 gauge I bought)
 
Newbie here. My cat Sparks was diagnosed a few weeks ago. Part of the reason we brought him in was for neuropathy in his back legs. He was prescribed a 2-unit dose every 12 hours.
He went in one week ago for his glucose curve. They stopped the curve only partway in, and immediately upped his prescription to 4 units.

No matter what type of insulin, 2u a day is higher than "normal" for a starting dose, but we'd need to know what sort of numbers he was showing when he was diagnosed. Upping from 2u to 4u based on one curve is pretty drastic. Increases (or decreases) are best in small increments like 1/2 unit at most at a time. We usually recommend a "start low and go slow" routine, where the starting dose is 1u, twice a day (BID), 12 hours apart, and that dose is held for several days while test data is collected so that any dose adjustments are based on data over a range of days. Do you have specific numbers? Also, any tests done at the vet's office will usually be "higher" due to stress caused by the kitty being there (strange smells, sounds, sights and people). Stress raises blood glucose. Numbers from tests at home can be 50-100 points lower than stress related numbers at the vet.

We got a glucose meter but have been having a lot of trouble getting a sample. Either nothing or too much blood. Tonight's reading was >300.

300's are quite common at the beginning of treatment, so don't feel they are unusually high right now. What type of meter did you get? As far as trouble with testing, we can sure help you out there. We've all done it more times than we want to count!

And I'm really concerned about the neuropathy. It seems to be getting worse. He's even having trouble getting into the litter box (I had to pick him up and help him in twice today).

Completely understand your concern. Neuropathy is pretty common with sugarcats, and as his numbers get better, so will that condition. The B-12 will help, so try not to get too discouraged. Does the litter box by chance have a "top" part that can be removed for now? That might make getting in and out easier. Or you can try to find one that isn't quite as "tall", or use something else for now like an old broiler pan or cookie sheet that won't stop him from getting in.

I would love to be able to monitor him more closely, but currently with the work situation and challenges checking his level vs the 2x day prescription, the 12 hour interval is the best we can do.

That you are testing him at all puts you ahead of many of the people who post here for the first time, so good for you that you have conquered that hurdle already! As long as you can test him before each and every shot, that is okay. We will help you to make the tests easier to take for you and for Sparks, and then it won't be as difficult. Testing at around the mid point between shots would be the "next step" you want to take. That is when most insulins are at peak effectiveness, and it will tell you a lot about how he reacts to it, and if the dose is too low, too high, or just right.

Not really sure what is going on other than I am preoccupied with trying to learn more, make him more comfortable, and increase quality of life.

That tells us a lot! You are pretty much where everyone of us was at the day we came here for the first time. It is overwhelming, and the amount of information on this board is staggering. In just a few weeks, you'll look back on today and think "wow, it really isn't as bad as I thought", and you'll have made this "sugardance" just a new part of your lives. It does get easier, especially when you see the improvement in his condition with your own eyes. Yes, it's scary and confusing at first, but you'll soon find that it is also very empowering to know you can handle all of it.

Looking forward to seeing that process happen for you and Sparks!

Carl
 
sorry, looks like we posted at the same time!

Insulin - Prozinc. That's good. We have several regular posters who use Prozinc or PZI. My kitty Bob was on PZI.
Each insulin type has a forum of its own under the "Insulin Support Groups". Once you get settled, post there as well. I'm a regular there.

It would be great if you can get your vet to give you any numbers he got, so yes, ask him!

You are already good on the food. Lots of us use Fancy Feast too. Obviously, you've done a lot of homework on feline diabetes.
Free feeding is fine. Small snacks throughout the day are good. It keeps his blood sugar more constant, and is definitely better than too much too quickly resulting in puking. His appetite with numbers not under control yet is going to be big, more than normal. The diabetes prohibits him from getting as much out of the food as a "normal" cat, so he needs to eat more to get the same amount of nutrition.

I know we have other members in CA, maybe close to where you are at. If you post with a subject like "anybody close to Santa Cruz?" you'll be more likely to catch their eyes. Many of us have made a trip to another member joining that lives close by, and that can really be helpful. It's much easier to have someone show you their "testing tricks" in person if you need any help like that.

The 27 gauge lancets should do the trick. Probably just your "technique" that needs fine tuning. ;-) Meters usually come with 33's which are somewhat smaller. Maybe not tonight since many of us are on the east coast, but I am sure that tomorrow, somebody will post links to "how-to" videos for BG testing.

Carl
 
Welcome!

Although I do not possess the experience or knowledge that a lot of people have on this site, I can, in all good conscience, tell you that you will be given the best advice possible here. Life saving advice. Sanity saving advice. Many shoulders to lean on and people who will guide you thru things from A-Z.

It is difficult at first to accept advice given over the internet....and I had a difficult time accepting it...however, I sure am happy that I finally did accept what people told me here.

Read as much as you can on this site - there is a plethora of information here, and above all, don't be afraid to ask questions.

Kindest regards.
:)
 
Welcome.

Food.
I have one cat whose BG numbers will soar into the 400s if she gets even a few a pieces of dry food; she is extremely carb sensitive. If at all possible, try to switch your dry food kitty over to wet as well because it's better for cats, and safer if you can't put the dry food in a spot that Sparks can't get.
I have one cat who would rather starve than switch, so her food is up in a high spot on a shelf that the diabetic cannot reach.
When my two first started on insulin, their appetites were atrocious... Shadoe was eating close to 24oz a day and Oliver was eating around 30oz per day. It's true that while unregulated, they just can't extract what's needed from the foods. Now, if my two eat 6oz and 12oz, that's alot for them now.

Binky’s Food Lists
Feeding Your Cat: Know The Basics of Feline Nutrition

Testing.
There are 3 crucial tests: before the am and pm shots, and a before bed test. Many cats go very low overnite, so you want to be sure Sparks is not already heading low when you head to bed... if low, you may need to stay up to bring up his numbers to a safe level.

Insulin.
I have no experience with this insulin as I use Levemir, but That 2u dose and then a jump to 4u is not a very good idea... the majority of diabetic cats may never reach a 4u dose. It is much wiser to increase slowly and increase by much smaller amounts, not double it.... you do not want to jump over Sparks good dose as you will run into a dangerous area for Sparks.

Neuropathy.
I do not have experience with that issue, but do give both of mine B12 shots at home. I got a 10ml bottle of B12, pink and cyanomethyl. initially for Shadoe's pancreas constant inflammation. I gave to both cats and find that Oliver can move around better and Shadoe has little pancreas issues now. I suppose you could crush the pills but you can ask your dr about your giving B12 shots at home.
 
One thing that may help with testing is to warm his ear. I use a rice sock (small thin sock filled with dry rice) that I heat in the microwave for a few seconds to warm the ear before I try to poke it. Other people fill an old pill bottle with warm water or use a warm wash cloth in a baggie. Heating the ear for 15-30 seconds or so brings the vein closer to the surface to make it easier to poke. It also helps to hold something under the ear when you poke it so that the lancet doesn't "bounce" off and really punctures the ear. At first you may need to poke twice in the same spot, especially if you're using a smaller gauge lancet.

Believe it or not, but as you get more used to testing the ear "learns" to bleed and it's easier to get a good sample--I don't always have to heat Cass's ear anymore unless it's really cold.

And, don't forge the power of low carb treats--kitty gets a treat for every test, successful or not. My boys love freeze dried chicken treats, but some people use shrimp or liver.

Good luck!
 
Welcome to a place we hoped you would never be. But you are not alone, and you will get help here.

Warming the ear is very important.....since my kitty has dark fur, I had better luck pricking on the inside of the ear...trying to avoid the really furry areas. As Lori posted once, caress you baby's ear, and tell him he has the most beautiful ears ever. It will give up the precious drop of blood for you.

People with much more experience will come on her in a little while with good advice for you. Pay close attention to the advice. You will see from other posts on the site that most of us credit this forum with enabling us to either regulate our kitty or, in some cases, get the kitty into remission. Additionally, this site has saved the lives of MANY, MANY kitties.

While I am new, and do not have the experience of some of the people on here, I can give you the most important advice:

DO NOT SHOOT BLIND, DO NOT SHOOT BLIND, DO NOT SHOOT BLIND, DO NOT SHOOT BLIND........

Help is on the way......emotional support from most of us, life-saving advice from others.
 
carlinsc said:
<snip>

You are already good on the food. Lots of us use Fancy Feast too. Obviously, you've done a lot of homework on feline diabetes.

<snip>

Should we remind that not all Fancy Feasts are created equal? The "Classics" line has the lowest carb content, doesn't it? And those with gravy, particularly the 'Sliced' line, and the 'Grilled' line (all of which sound super yummy to us humanoid)s are significantly higher in grains and carbs than the Classics line.
 
Excellent point! Make sure it says "classics" on the can. Using the Binky's food charts, look for carb values of 7% or lower. (link in my sig.)
Carl
 
Welcome!

I suggest you focus the changes to 1 thing at a time, so you know what caused changes what effects.

Since you've already started insulin, I suggest you focus first on learning to test successfully and learn the guidelines for dose adjustment for the insulin you are using (posted at the top of the insulin specific forums). Why? because if you change the diet without good testing while continuing the same dose of insulin, your cat could wind up going too low. That can kill.

An additional important aid for monitoring your cat is urine testing strips - you find those in the pharmacy section of drug store - Ketodiastix is one brand. Ketones are a sign the cat may need emergency care (if these are high, GO! ketoacidosis can kill) and probably needs a higher insulin dose and/or a lower carb diet.

Once you are are more confident with the testing, then focuis more on adjusting the diet to lower carb foods base on the food links given in an earlier post. As you make the shift to lower carb foods, you most likely will need to reduce the insulin levels ... unless your cat has a condition such as acromegaly, or insulin autoantibodies. Those conditions require higher levels of insulin. The size of your cat suggest you may want to read in the acromegaly forum.
 
For testing mid cycle - some folks set an alarm and get up in the middle of the night to test.
 
Thank you everyone!

Sparks was not doing well this morning, throwing up both food and water, and didn't go to the bathroom when he tried so I took him in... in hindsight I should have tried again to test him before I left. Then again poor guy was suffering and it has been very stressful, hard, and rarely productive when I've tried to get a sample. I have got to get better at that!
I will try the sock technique for the ear next time.

The vet thinks he has a major constipation issue but they are going to monitor his BG, check his bladder, and I hope we can be reunited at the end of the day. At that time I will ask for a written copy of both BG tests (today and last Friday's)

I asked about the numbers from last time and he was over 400 when I brought him in, got over 500 within a few hours and that is partly why they jumped so high. Also his weight (he's 19-20lbs).
He lost 1/4 pound since last week, which is too much, so he'll also get a caloric analysis vs food for a revised recommendation. I was nervous to feed him what the cans suggested -- it would be 2.5 cans of Natural Balance (15 oz) or 6.5 cans of Fancy Feast (19.5 oz) which seemed like too much.
Thank you for the link to Binky's food, I will do an analysis of my own later today.

I'm back at work now but couldn't resist coming back here and am so thankful I did!!! I can't stop thinking about him and it's wonderful to know that there are experienced, kind people giving their time and expertise to help me help my buddy.
 
Just wanted to say welcome.
There is tons of information just thrown your way via this thread, but it is all great information. The more you visit here, the more calm you will become!
I guess the main thing I will say is home testing before each shot and mid testing will save a life.. I have a spreadsheet at the bottom in my signature that proves that very thing. I was not very good at the whole testing either and when I got my first successful test, my Bean was only 27!
Of course it was after vet hours and THIS WONDERFUL GROUP helped me thru it and brought my Bean back to saftey!!
She is now in remission!!! I am sooo glad I found this place!
Happy paw hugs to ya both and have a great week end
 
Until he is regulated, he can't make good use of the food he is eating, essentially starving in the midst of plenty. So even though it seems like a lot, he is both a big cat AND unregulated. You might find Dr Pierson's web site Cat Info helpful to read. She discusses nutrition, calories, and managing weight loss when the latter is required.
 
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