New Diabetic Cat Mom

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It doesn't say on the package, but the lancet needles look to be about 30 gauge. My previous unsuccessful attempts has actually been with a 25 gauge needle, not the lancets. The first successful attempt today was with the lancet in the popping device. Even then though it took 3 sticks before we got blood.

Don't know if I have see that particular illustration but yes I am aware of the peripheral capillary that runs around the perimeter of the ears. One of my other cats is a silver tabby and it is very easy to see this in her ears. Hairy on the other hand, is a long haired tuxie with black ears, so harder to see on his ears.
 
Hi again Nancy..and super sweet Hairy too!!

Another thing you might try is to desensitize Hairy. China absolutely hated having her ears touched, much less poked!! I decided on where I wanted to test her and started taking there several times per day and just gave her a quick ear rub (that's all she'd let me do at first!) Even just a second or two, she'd get a treat of boiled chicken. After awhile, she'd let me fool with her ears pretty much any way I wanted...she just wanted her chicken! From there we went on to poking. Since there aren't many pain receptors in that part of their ear (less than are in our fingers) she hardly noticed...once I got her used to being in the same place and that fooling with her ears meant a reward, she couldn't have cared less.

Now all I have to do is call her name and she comes running and jumps right up there! She definitely has a "dominant ear" too...her left ear bleeds much easier than her right ear does, so most of her pokes go there. My vet was really surprised her ears were in such good shape considering how much they were being poked. A little Neosporin with pain relief oinment (not cream) rubbed in before poking and then rubbed off right before helps numb the ear even more..and the ointment helps "pool" the blood in one little area too.

If testing before shooting each time is just too much for you at this point, it might be better for you to leave Hairy at your vet for a day and let him do a blood glucose curve. The numbers will be inflated some due to being at the vet, but at least it'd give you some idea of how he's reacting to the insulin.

Hope you can get Hairy to cooperate! We are all here to help if we can, and our number one concern is to keep Hairy safe!! The numbers we can work on with time and testing!
 
Bob's got gray fur so it wasn't hard to see the vein. I've read some people with black cats, especially long haired, have had luck by poking on the "inside" surface rather than on the back of the ear...
 
Thanks Chris. Hairy is not what you would call a lap cat. He doesn't like to be picked up and he doesn't like to be held. That is why I rescued him in the first place. He was just to afraid of people to be adopted from the shelter. When I rescued him, her was already about 12 years old, so there is a lot about his past history I don't know. He may have been abused. I have tried just picking him up and holding him for a minute or putting him on the table and just giving him a treat. I might just be starting to help a little and maybe in part that was why we were successful today when we had not been before. The odd thing is, when I take him to the vet, he is much more cooperative there. Stay on the exam table, let the vet look into his mouth and ears, and the vet tech has no trouble with him when she pokes his ears for blood. I have no expectations of Hairy hoping up on the table to get poked, but hoping to be able to do it without quite so much drama in the not to distant future.
 
I think I spent about a week straight bawling my eyes out because I couldn't get blood from Milo's ear and I was convinced I would kill him. But then all of a sudden I was a pro at it. He would just sleep through it. It happens all the time on this forum, one week someone is freaking out about not being able to test blood but then the next week they are awesome at it. You will get it =) My personal favorite was using warm water in an empty pill bottle and holding his ear around it, then using a 26 gauge lancet with the lancet pen.


My vet convinced me I needed the Alphatrak as well :( I wish I could get that money back.
 
Have you seen this ear testing tips page yet? I didn't notice if anyone had linked it for you yet, but it's got some great advice for when you're first starting out. I also wrote this little tidbit up a while back for taking your time during the initial stages of the testing process that might help.
 
NancyJac said:
The odd thing is, when I take him to the vet, he is much more cooperative there. Stay on the exam table, let the vet look into his mouth and ears, and the vet tech has no trouble with him when she pokes his ears for blood.
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This is exactly like Michelangelo! He was a feral rescue kitten and he definitely shows me his displeasure at whatever I might be doing to annoy him. But! When we go to the vet, he's docile to the point of timid and basically plays possum and lets them do pretty much anything (including taking his temp anally) without too much of a fuss. :YMSIGH:
 
Most cats seem to act better at the vets (although there are always exceptions!!) When I worked for a vet, people would always remark about how "Fluffy" would NEVER let them do some of the stuff we'd have to do with them. The vet told me it's because they're in unfamiliar surroundings, and also because the way vets (and vet techs) go about stuff, they don't have time to really "worry" about it. They do what they have to do because it needs to be done. As our own cats caretakers, we're afraid of "hurting their feelings", or that they'll never love us again..so we're more tentative..and our cats pick up on that and use it against us.

It sounds like you're getting there with him though...Keep bringing him to the spot and rewarding him, and I'll bet you'll be surprised one day and he'll come when he's called too!!

I thought I'd faint when China did it the first few times!!
 
Kpassa, I already had the first one bookmarked and now I have the taking your time one bookmarked as well. We have sort of been doing that but we probably still rushed it a bit. Thing is he was diagnosed a month ago and has lost so much weight and muscle mass that I didn't want to wait much longer before getting him started on insulin,
 
We were able to do another test this morning, just after he ate but before his shot. It was 456. Talked to my vet this morning and he is ok with me testing at mid afternoon at +6 or +7 of the morning dose since that is most likely to be the nadir. And to do a second test, if and when we can,just before either the am or pm dose, which is likely to be the highest reading.
 
Congratulations on the 2nd successful poke Nancy!!! :-D :-D :-D You'll be a pro in no time! It really is about letting go of our fear and just doing it as much as anything. I'm sure your Hairy is like most of our cats...he is very "in tune" to how you feel, and if you're stressing, he knows it. Like I said last night, they are very good at using our love for them against us!!

We all really do understand how you feel..we've all been there, but as this adventure moves on, I'll bet you'll soon be telling another new mom or dad that if YOU can do it, they can too!!

It's great that your vet is also recommending additional testing...When you can do it for now! The tests that are most important are these (but for now, whatever you get is better than nothing)

The most important (for safety) are Pre-shot tests...just because insulin IS a powerful hormone and you wouldn't want to give it if Hairy is already low. It could easily lead to a very heartbreaking situation, if not the loss of your precious kitty. Lifelong seizures, blindness, and brain damage can occur if a cat goes too low..and that's if they survive. That's why we're so big on those pre-shot tests. It's only to keep you from that heartbreak!

The next important test is mid-cycle (for dosing advice). Since "most" cats nadir is between +5 and +8 of each cycle, that's an important test because it'll tell you how low Hairy is going. Lantus doesn't work immediately (like you have a headache, take an aspirin and 20 mins later you feel better)...it takes several hours to fully kick in and then continues to drop the blood sugar for several more hours....then starts to wear off some. That's why it's given every 12 hours.....there's a "curve" using lantus....generally PS is a higher number, nadir is the lowest number and then PS is higher again.

Once you're more comfortable with testing (well, once Hairy is more comfortable), if you could get just 4 tests per day, you'd be on your way to getting some real control over his diabetes as well as keeping him safe.

As you can, try to get those Pre-shot tests, then feed/shoot. Try not to feed for at least 2 hours prior to those Pre-shot tests since it would bring his numbers up just because of the food and you don't want to shoot insulin into Hairy if the ONLY thing keeping his number up is food!

Then, IF you can, get a test between +5 and +8 ...basically the same thing your vet told you. This information will help your vet, as well as those of us here (who have a lot more experience dealing with day to day diabetic cats than most vets ever will) in determining the best dose to hopefully get Hairy into remission!! Depending on your schedule, if you can get a test at +5 to +8 at night, it's great, but if you can just get one before you go to bed, that'd be great too. Most cats go lower at night, so if you don't get a test somewhere in the night cycle, you'd be missing half the picture.....again, we just want Hairy to be safe...and you to be successful in treating his diabetes!!

As you and Hairy become more comfortable with testing, you can start getting some tests at other times...not that you necessarily need to test MORE than 4 times a day, but just some tests at different times so you can start to really see how Hairy responds. Once you learn that, you'll be able to shoot lower numbers (safely), which will give his pancreas the support it needs to heal...and maybe even start working again!!

I know you can do this! You obviously love Hairy very much, and I know you want him safe as well as controlled...that's what we all want to help you with.
 
Thanks Chris. Hairy is still struggling a lot but this time we got him with the first poke and used the inside instead of the outside of his ear. I must say that the alpha trak meter/test strips work with an amazingly small drop of blood which is about all we can get out of Hairy.

For now we are also limited by when and how often we can test because it takes both my husband and me to do it so it has to be when both of us are home and awake. My husband is 76 and has some health issues of his own. He is often already in bed by the time Hairy is due for his second shot. I work 3 afternoons a week so can't do the midcycle those days. And since his night time dose is at 9PM, both my husband and I would have to get up between 2 and 5am to do a mid cycle test. And at $50, it would cost about $125/month just for test strips if we tested 4X/day.

What do you all do if you are out of town? We have weekend in late October that we plan to be out of town. Before when we were gone for just the weekend, I would just put out extra food and litter boxes before we left and the cats would be fine. Would it be detrimental for Hairy to be off his insulin for 2 days? Should I plan to board him at the vet so they can give him his insulin?
 
Start searching for pet sitters now. Ask if they can home test and give insulin. If no, ask if they'd like to learn how in exchange for a discount on services at the time of your trip.

Or find a good boarding vet that will follow your feeding instuctions exactly, and give the insulin every 12 hours as directed by you.
 
Well, for the 2nd time in 2 days, my reply said it posted and didn't :evil:

Do you have a relative or neighbor you trust that would be willing to come learn to test/shoot Hairy? (by then, I'm betting he'll be taking the whole thing in stride)

If not, then yes, either put him at a vet for medical boarding so he'll get his dose every 12 hours and will have someone there to make sure everything is ok...or as recommended, see if you can find a petsitter who's trained in giving insulin AND testing

I know it can take some adjustments in your life to get these tests but it's important for Hairy..maybe back up to 7am and 7pm for shots? Then you could get a mid cycle most days, and a "before bed" test at night. If this is something you can do, you can start "backing up" 15 minutes per cycle (or one 30 minute adjustment per day) and by early next week, you could be on a 7/7 schedule and give yourself a little breathing room for tests/work/bedtime.

I really do understand your problems, as many of the members here do. My mother has been in the hospital for the past week (and required "supervision" before then) so I have been having to squeeze China in between trips here and there. Luckily, she's been staying in safe numbers while I've been busy, but I always have her in the back of my mind when I'm away. We have lots of members who also work 40 (or more) hours week. It really is doable but each person has to figure out what works best for them.

P.S...I've always poked China on the inside of her ear even though she's a white cat so that vein is pretty easy to see...there's less hair to get in the way there....LOL

Edited to add...please really consider going to the people glucometer instead of the AlphaTrak from the vet. Most of us use them...they're all regulated by the FDA so have to be reliable enough to use on humans..and the Relion Prime at WalMart will only cost you $9 for 50 strips. The meter itself is only about $15 (the meters are all cheap..it's the strips that kill the budget!!)

If you do decide to go ahead and do this, keep the AlphaTrak as a back up (in case of battery failure or something) and make sure to let everyone here know you're not using the AlphaTrak. The only real difference is the AlphaTrak numbers are generally about 30 points higher than the human ones...so it's not hard to convert if you need to. Just add 30 points to the number the human one gives you.

The important part of the meter isn't necessarily the exact number..it's learning how your particular cat responds to food and insulin so you can learn how he's doing, adjust his dose as needed, and work towards getting (hopefully) OTJ completely!!
 
Nancy,
Another option that some people have used when they need to be away for a few days is to see if one of the vet techs at your vet's office does "house calls" and can give shots or test. Some will do that to supplement their income and won't charge you an arm or leg.
 
I think the best options for us are to either take him with us or board him at the vet. I'm not comfortable with having a pet sitter or relative or neighbor do it. If they had a problem, they wouldn't be able to get any help with it being a weekend and hubby and me out of town.
 
Hey, if Hairy is a good traveler, BON VOYAGE!! Send us a post card :lol:

If he's not, the stress of traveling will raise his numbers, so better choice would be to leave him with the vet...his numbers may still be elevated from being there, but at least you wouldn't be losing momentum by skipping for 2 days
 
Hi Nancy,
We were able to do another test this morning, just after he ate but before his shot. It was 456. Talked to my vet this morning and he is ok with me testing at mid afternoon at +6 or +7 of the morning dose since that is most likely to be the nadir. And to do a second test, if and when we can,just before either the am or pm dose, which is likely to be the highest reading.
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Just wondering if you were able to get a test mid-cycle to see if the number came down from the 456 this morning.

I don't want to dump a whole lot of info on you, but I did want to mention "bouncing" which is a term you'll see here a lot. The high number this morning had to be pretty surprising after the 89 yesterday? Most likely it is largely due to what we call a bounce. Briefly, a bounce is the result of the blood glucose value going low, either too quickly, or too far.
A newly diagnosed diabetic cat has most likely been living with BGs in the 300s or 400s for quite a while. Due to that, his system comes to feel that high BGs are "normal". So when all of a sudden, his body is getting insulin, and the insulin is doing what it is supposed to do - push down the BG values - his system gets confused, for lack of a better term. 89 is not too low. It's "normal" (80-150 is normal on a pet meter). But to his system, used to high numbers, the 89 is way too low for comfort. What happens is that his pancreas and his liver release stored "sugar" and counter-regulatory hormones as a self-defense against low BG levels. This instinctive response just happens. There's no avoiding it, every cat does it at some point. It's actually not a bad thing. It shows you that those parts of his system are functioning properly. All that said, the end result is higher BGs that show up quickly, and can stick around for up to 2 to 3 days.

This can happen if the numbers drop a significant amount, or when they drop a lot in a short time frame. You can see what a bounce looks like by looking at just about any Lantus spreadsheet attached to people's signatures. You'll see a "green" number or a "blue" number in the middle of a cycle, and then you'll see two, four, or more cycles afterwards full of yellow, pink, or red numbers. Even when the dose is the exact same amount every 12 hours. Eventually, the effects of the bounce go away, sometimes in a day, sometimes longer, but they do eventually go away.

I'm only telling you this because you might see higher numbers either at preshot or in the middle of the cycles, and you might wonder "why isn't the insulin working today when it worked so well yesterday?" Sometimes it leads people to think that the dose needs to be higher, but that isn't what it means if the numbers are due to a "bounce". Over time, you'll be able to recognize "bouncing" when you see it, and all it takes is patience until it goes away.

If you do see numbers that are puzzling, please ask and we can try to explain what we believe might be going on.
 
Sorry I haven't been around today to post much (there's this silly interference called "work" that takes up too much of my time :lol: ).

Yes! Thank you, Carl, for explaining bounces! That's exactly what I was thinking when I saw those numbers. In fact, Mikey had a bouncy cycle today as well. Don't worry; it clears out after a day or two, sometimes sooner. With Michelangelo, he can usually clear it out in a cycle and is back to "normal" by his next cycle. Most cats, it can take up to 72 hours to clear a bounce, especially when recently diagnosed. This can sometimes also be another sign that the dose might be too high.

Are you still shooting the 1u or has your vet recommended that you drop it down a smidge to .5 or .75u (which I highly recommend doing)?
 
As to boarding or having a cat sitter, I've had to leave Mikey alone a few times already and I created this template to give to whomever is caring for Mikey and Henry that might be of use. Simply copy/paste it into a word doc and customize it to Hairy's needs. I am "lucky" that I have enough out-of-work friends during this "recession" that are more than grateful to earn a spot of cash to take care of my kitties when I'm gone. (I'm also lucky that my job no longer requires me to travel 3-4 weeks out of a month any more. :lol:)

I also decrease his dose a tinge whenever I'm gone as cats often drop lower when you're not around (in Mikey's case, it's because he becomes "depressed from my absence," as I like to say, and eats less).

But ultimately, I'm hoping that by late October, you might already have him in remission (if possible) and it will simply be a matter of "who can feed them for two days?" vs. "who can test and give shots?" :mrgreen:
 
Carl & Bob said:
Just wondering if you were able to get a test mid-cycle to see if the number came down from the 456 this morning.
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No, I was at work during mid cycle yesterday so wasn't able to test him. Hopefully will be able to today.

My vet explained bouncing to me and forewarned me that the numbers might be all over the place for the first few days.
 
[quote="KPassa"
Are you still shooting the 1u or has your vet recommended that you drop it down a smidge to .5 or .75u (which I highly recommend doing)?[/quote]

Still 1 unit BID. I'm emailing my vet the numbers as I get them.

I don't know if this is just wishful thinking, but I think I am seeing some slight improvement in Hairy's behavior since starting on the insulin. Before insulin he pretty much ate, pee'd and slept. Yesterday and so far today, he has been a bit more active, even playing with his little brother Squeaky. He is still eating well, but he isn't as ravenous as he was all the time before the insulin started. He doesn't see quite as thirsty either and is peeing a little less.
 
KPassa said:
But ultimately, I'm hoping that by late October, you might already have him in remission (if possible) and it will simply be a matter of "who can feed them for two days?" vs. "who can test and give shots?" :mrgreen:
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That would be great, but I think boarding him at the vet is my Plan B. The techs up there know him and he fusses a lot less about going to or being a the vets than he does with me trying to test him. I know how hard it is for me to deal with his testing and shots right now and I would be way too stressed and nervous about a friend or pet setter doing it for the first time while I was out of town. I think boarding him at the vet would be cheaper too. Pet Sitters around here charge about $20/visit or more.
 
yes...he's bouncing! Since he's still very new to all this, his bounces will probably be pretty high and take up to 72 hours to fully clear. As his body gets "used to" more normal numbers, he'll bounce less high, and clear them faster.

When China started, if she dropped into the 100's, she'd bounce into the 400's and it'd take pretty much the whole 3 days to come down...now she only bounces into the 200's, and can clear them in a cycle or two.

Looks like you're already seeing the first thing I noticed..LESS litter box action!! YEAH!!! The fact he's acting better is a good sign too. Nobody likes to act too perky when they don't feel good, so hopefully as he gets more controlled, you'll start seeing a lot of behaviors you might have been missing for awhile.

I didn't think much of it when China started to slow down, look more scruffy, and what I thought was "showing her age". When I caught her preening after about a week of insulin, I realized I hadn't seen her do that in a very long time! I was so happy! Soon she was chasing imaginary bugs into the wall, picking fights over the best sleeping spots on the cat trees, and generally acting like she did as a much younger cat :-D :-D

Things should continue to get better as Hairy gets further controlled too...I'm sure you'll start noticing him do things he hadn't done in a long time too!
 
I don't know if this is just wishful thinking, but I think I am seeing some slight improvement in Hairy's behavior since starting on the insulin. Before insulin he pretty much ate, pee'd and slept. Yesterday and so far today, he has been a bit more active, even playing with his little brother Squeaky. He is still eating well, but he isn't as ravenous as he was all the time before the insulin started. He doesn't see quite as thirsty either and is peeing a little less.
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All very encouraging observations :smile:
We sometimes ask people for a WCR (whole cat report). At times, it is easy to over-worry about the "numbers" and miss the simple outward signs that the cat is showing us. We also call it the "5 P's". ... Peeing, purring, playing, preening and pooping.

Looks like you've already noticed some positive changes on at least two counts. Improvements can tell you just as much, if not more, than the BG test numbers.
 
I'd like to apologize to those who have responded to my posts on this board. I have been so overwhelmed by just doing the initial basics regarding Hairy's recent diagnosis and starting on insulin that the enormous wealth of information all of you have provided me just overwhelmed me even more and I think I reacted in a defensive way just because I couldn't take it all in. I'm still a bit stress out over it (especially the BG testing) but I'm trying to incorporate and absorb stuff little by little to build from where I started without trying to do it all at once. This is only the 4th day since Hairy started on insulin but it some ways the last 4 days have seemed like an eternity.

Anyway, I just wanted to say that I appreciate all of you and I'm sorry if I have seemed defensive or abrasive.

Nancy
 
We really do understand Nancy. There's so much information we want to give you and when there are a lot of us on and we're all throwing it at you at once, we sure can't blame you if you "duck and cover"

We're a pretty resilient bunch..we don't give up on people. We all truly do want the best for Hairy...and your entire family!

Keep in touch...we will all do what we can to help you along the way. This sugardance is complicated and sometimes downright scary, but take some comfort in knowing that we've all been there before, and will really do our best to help.

Have you read this? I think you'll enjoy it. I know I did!! A Message From your Cat
 
Nancy,

Don't feel "unique". It is very overwhelming, and especially in the first few days, way too much to take in at one time. Like I said earlier, everybody just wants to help, and at times, we get a little overzealous. ;-) The important thing is that we allow you to move at your own pace, and try not to anticipate questions before you ask them.
The worst thing we can do is make somebody feel defensive and choose to "leave" or not post any more. That doesn't help you, and it doesn't help Hairy. There's nothing wrong with asking us to "chill out" when it gets to that point.

Good job getting the spread sheet up and running! It helps us, of course, since it's what we are "used to". And you will find it a very valuable tool going forward. It's easy to get hung up with the test-by-test numbers and wonder what the heck is going on. The spreadsheet allows you to look at trends over time, and recognize patterns in the numbers. In the long run, that information is more useful than one or two specific test results.
 
BIG HUGS NANCY!

When a new extra sweet kitty and their beans show up here, they become part of our family. We're all sort of crazy in love with our family and only want what's best for every single one of them FUREVER.

ANOTHER BIG HUG!
 
Thanks all. Setting up the ss was way easier than I thought. It was also the first time I ever used Google docs.....pretty neat. I have a little diabetes diary that came with Hairy's meter that I have been using but the color coding and "at a glance" type layout of the spreadsheet is much more user friendly, especially once it has more data in it. It is also something I can share (either electronically or by printing it out) with my vet, rather than having to type my handwritten data into an email.

I know a couple of people mentioned human meters when I first joined that are much less expensive, especially for the test strips. I think I'm going to continue using the AphaTRAK until I have some more stable data for Hairy (i.e. when he isn't bouncing) and until we are more adept at doing the testing. Since the biggest problem we have with Hairy is getting blood out of him, I need a meter that will work with a very small blood drop because, even when we are successful, it is just a tiny drop, and fortunately it is enough to register on the AlphaTRAK. What are your recommendations for a less expensive meter/test strips that works with very small blood drops?
 
Nancy,
I would suggest Walmart's either Confirm or Micro as a good meter - meter is about $16. It only takes a TINY drop of blood - wonderful with either cold ears or ones that don't bleed easily. They have one that's a bit cheaper but it takes a larger drop of blood. I've used lots of different meters, I always go back to my 'Confirm'. When we adopted our second sugarboy, I specifically requested they provide a Confirm or Micro. The Micro looks easier to handle but I've just never used it...takes same strips. Strips can also be ordered directly from the manufacturer, Arkray...

HUGS!
 
The Relion Confirm or Micro (WalMart) is about $15 for the meter, and about $18 for 50 test strips. It only needs 0.3 µl sample size...the smallest available (and is a REALLY tiny amount!!)

Having one from WalMart also means you have access to test strips anytime the store is open. The Alphatrak strips have to be ordered from your vet from what I understand.

You might want to consider putting the AlphaTrak back and use it for a backup meter. It'll save you a lot of money in test strips. The only difference in the way the meters read is the AlphaTrak always reads about 30mL higher than the human ones. Most of us do have a "back up" meter, just in case our first choice has a dead battery, a coding problem, or our cat buries it in the litter box never to be seen again....LOL

If you think of the difference in "pet" meters vs human meters like a thermometer, it'll help. If you use a Celsius thermometer, you're going to get vastly different readings than you would from a Fahrenheit thermometer. Both are accurate, just use a different scale.
 
The Alphatrak 2 and the Relion Confirm and the Relion Micro all need the same size blood drop, that 0.3 microliters.
 
Deb & Wink said:
The Alphatrak 2 and the Relion Confirm and the Relion Micro all need the same size blood drop, that 0.3 microliters.
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OH WOW DEB! Thank you for posting that - didn't know the AT2 uses a smaller drop! One of my backup meters is the ReliOn Prime equivalent from Arkray - that difference between 0.3 and 0.5 is HUGE to me...
 
Duh....never mind my question about the lancets. The description of the meter says it comes with it's own lancet device.

One thing that confuses me though. The description reads: The ReliOn Confirm Blood Glucose Meter is an efficient glucose monitor that tests using as little as a 0.3 micro-liter sample. It does not require coding and gives your results in just seven seconds. This home glucose meter comes in an ultra-thin design and offers alternate site testing. All that you have to do is place your blood sample on the Confirm test strips that are sold separately. A beep sound confirms that the sample is sufficient and then you get instant results. This glucose test monitor has an easy-to-use lancing device that features five depth settings for a less painful test.

First it says it takes 7 seconds to get result and then it says you get instant results. Which is it?
 
First it says it takes 7 seconds to get result and then it says you get instant results. Which is it?
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I think it's more that once you put the test strip into the meter, it takes a few seconds to go through it's little "start up" procedure. Once you see the flashing drop of blood on the screen, it's "ready" to use. You just touch the strip to the blood sample and it "sucks" it up..and pretty much immediately gives you a reading

The lancet device you use doesn't matter. You can continue to use the one you have, get the Relion device or just buy lancets and freehand. Lots of cats get "spooked" by the click of the devices, so we just use the little lancet part and stick it without the device at all.

If you do decide to get the device, it'll come with a few lancets, but they're the 31 gauge. You can get a box of 100 of the 28/29 gauge for about $6. They fit into the device too
 
Thanks Chris. That makes more sense. With AlphaTRAK2, the meter turns on automatically when you put the test strip in and then it goes off automatically in 2 minutes. It is at least 7 seconds from the time I put the test strip in until we get the coveted drop of blood from Hairy, so that delay is no problem. In fact I worry more about it going off in 2 minutes and we still don't have the blood. But once I touch the test strip to the blood it beeps immediately and with in a second or so after that the reading displays. Hairy just doesn't want me to have to hang on to him for an extra 7 seconds waiting to find out if we will get a good reading :o
 
The Relion "turns on" when the strip goes in too. I think it's probably about the same. Once the picture of the blood drop starts to flash on the screen, you've got about 2 minutes to "suck" before it turns off. (I've never actually timed it! Next time I think about it, I'll do that, just so if anyone asks again, we'll all know...LOL)
 
We had a minor setback today. The first time we tried to do a mid cycle test today were were unsuccessful. The way it had been working is that I would hold and my husband would use the lancet in the device. Didn't get much blood but enough to register. When we did that today we got no blood after several attempts and it seemed like the needle wasn't even going it. So we gave up and tried about an hour later and reversed roles. Hubby held and I stabbed but didn't use the plastic cap over the lancet but just put it in manually and worked the first time, plus we got a huge drop of blood. I don't know if the device has broken already and it doesn't pop the needle out far enough (we had it on the deepest setting) or what. But without the plastic cap over it, it's much easier to go in at a 45 degree angle instead of 90. Anyway, it looks like his bounce is starting to resolve. At +7 day he was 199 where yesterday at +6 he was 286.
 
I found that sometimes when using the clear plastic thingy, you think you are hitting the ear but you are actually just missing the edge of the ear and hitting nothing. all the time you are thinking you are putting poor kitty through a lot of jabs.

i also put lancet in device 9do not cock) and free hand. much better control that way , i feel and you can see where you are going
 
If the lancet is in the lancing pen, and you are using the lancing pen to poke the ear automatically with the use of the release trigger ( it clicks), you want the pen flat on the ear, perpendicular, 90 degree angle.

Only if you are freehanding the lancet, manually poking either holding that small lancet in your hand or using the lancing pen to hold the lancet but not pressing the release trigger on the pen, do you poke at a 45 degree angle.
 
Just to clarify on the relion confirm, what they mean is..... the test itself (from blood drop to done) is seven seconds, and it instantly displays the results of the test at that time. (perhaps some older/other models take a few seconds for calculations or something ? I don't know, the confirm is my first glucometer, and I like it a lot, just bought a spare in fact)
 
I sometimes use the Micro (the smaller version of the Confirm) and it takes about 2-5 seconds after inserting the strip for it to be ready for blood. Once the blood gets sucked onto the strip, it "processes" it for another second or two before the BG results display on screen.

Test yourself if you're not sure! :lol:
 
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