New Cat - Inappropriate Elimination Issue

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Liz&Gus

Member Since 2013
Hello Everyone!

It's been several months since I had to say good bye to my sugar kitty Gus, and I decided it was time to get another cat. I stopped by the local humane society, saw a 4-year-old cat, Milo, that struck my fancy and I took him home. He was in the shelter as an owner-release with no information as to why he was given up.

I've had Milo for about 2 weeks. He clearly has been someone's pet, as he hops up on the couch to watch TV with me, sleeps at my feet, scratches the scratching post, and recognizes the sound of opening a can of cat food. He is overweight but, overall, is a very good cat.

The issue is that he poops outside of the litter box. He always urinates in the box, but poops about 1 foot away from the box, on the linoleum floor. To resolve this issue, I've tried:
- Different litter - he now has three different litter types (clay - large particle, clay - very fine particle, and pine) lined up buffet-style for him to use. All are unscented.
- Daily cleaning - his litter is scooped daily
- Unhooded boxes - all three boxes lack covers
- Placing a litter box at the location of inappropriate elimination.
- Treats - I lead him to the box and give him treats when he steps in it.

His poops seem large in volume but normal in diameter, like he holds it until he absolutely has to go and then poops. They are well formed, dark brownish in color, and has a 'typical' smell, not outrageous, but not mild either.

For food, he gets 200 calories/day; ~90 calories from Friskies wet food (~3 oz total in 2 feedings) with ~110 calories from Felidae Pure Elements Grain Free dry food (1/4 cup total in 2 feedings). He is chubby and is on a diet, as per the vet.

I've never had a cat with inappropriate elimination issues before, so I am out of ideas. Does anyone have any other suggestions as to how to get Milo to use his litter box? I worry this is the issue that caused him to be released to the shelter in the first place, and that the inappropriate elimination is a long-term habit of Milo's.

Thanks!

Liz
 
It could be that the dry food diet is too dehydrating for your kitty and he's a bit constipated. He may be avoiding the litter box from habit when he has to poo, because he's come to associate the litter box with pain.

Getting more water into his diet is one idea. This is usually more easily accomplished by feeding canned food.

You could also try to add a stool softener to his diet or some canned plain pumpkin or psyllium husk fiber to increase the bulk of the stool and make it easier to pass.

His being overweight as you said can contribute to problems using the litter box also. It can make it hard for an overweight cat to crouch down to poo.

This website on Feline Constipation has some good reading.

Perhaps try an experiment, where you eliminate the dry food for a week or so and see if that improves the situation?
 
Litterbox Avoidance

After you rule out any medical issues (infection, stones, etc) here is a list I compiled previously. Some of the items may not apply. Gender may be incorrect.

***********************************************************************

You might try an integrated approach using multiple options from the list below on a consistent basis:

* start with crating, using a medium large crate (30" long is big enough for cat and a litterbox) until progress. She probably won't go where she'd have to lie in it ... but if she does, something is wrong and it may be medical.

* tarps and newspapers may be easier on clean up if you don't crate her

* feeding on a schedule and then placing her in the litterbox (maybe in a crate) within 15-20 minutes after eating, until she goes, then praising and letting her out.

* Feliway/Comfort Zone - friendly facial pheromones which reduce stress and may reduce marking behavior. Cheapest prices are usually on the net (ex http://www.LambertVetSupply.com ) I've used it and it helps.

* Cat Attract litter - supposed to help attract cat to litter box

* rule out arthritis or constipation - pain causes box avoidance

* watch if the other cats ever attack her in the box and if so, you may need to keep her separated from them. I've got one the others attack, completely unprovoked.

* littebox should be 1.5 times length of cat, litter cleaned frequently, but avoid really strong smelling cleaners as cats may avoid them due to the scent.

* you've got to get residual odors out from areas which were 'nailed' - Nature's Miracle is one option and has good reviews. It _can_ require repeated applications.

* regular play sessions of about 15 minutes to reduce stress and promote bond with you

* reward desirable behaviors - if you see her use the box, praise and treat her

* put unpleasant textures in places she has peed to encourage avoidance

* read some of this author's books: http://www.catbehaviorassociates.com/ she's pretty good - ex "Starting from Scratch"

Good luck.
 
Thanks Deb and BJM,

I set up a vet appointment for Wednesday morning. I think Milo is overall healthy, but this is just to rule out potential issues.

I already have a Feliway diffuser in the room, I got it the very first day to reduce the stress of adoption and new home.

I looked up the Cat Attract litter and found a local pet store that sold it, so I picked some up and will change out the pine litter (the litter type that he rarely uses) for this type.

Liz
 
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