Need some advise asap about BG test & first insulin shots / food changes

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TanyaG

TanyaG

Member Since 2016
Hi there I just posted in the newbie section. As this contains health related questions I thought it best to post in here too. So my 7 year old cat Tinka just got diagnosed yesterday with Type 2 Diabetes. I have attached her test results. Not sure if thats just blood work or the urine test results too as she had both tested. All I know is that she has Type 2 diabetes and high ketones. Not sure what all the high's and low's on the test results indicate?

Her BG today at the diabetic vet consultation tested either 18 or 15. Vet and vet nurse gave me different results so I'm not sure if its 18 or 15. May have been higher as she was stressed at the vets as she is quite nervous. Vet has recommend starting on a very low dose he said of insulin called Lantus, 1 unit twice daily 12 hours apart. I have to give her first insulin shot in the morning. It is evening here now in Banff, Alberta, Canada, hence why I'm trying to gather info as soon as possible. Vet said low dose 1 unit for now because she is not eating much as she's feeling so poorly. She is quite weak, depressed, likely a bit dehydrated as not drinking much, neuropathy in back legs, high ketones but not emergency case vet said, loss of appetitie, weight loss, hiding under the bed, just not herself at all, won't play etc. Her diet has been pretty low carb the past year with home cooked diet. I only switched to Rayne canned two months ago and thats when she started with all these symptoms and slowly was deteriorating. We had blood and urine tests yest and found out it was diabetes which was a shock as vet gave no indication of that. Vet said the ketones indicate she's probably had it quite some time. Past few days I had to give her something she'd eat as she wouldn't eat barely anything home cooked, tried some raw which she wouldn't eat too and she's gone off the Rayne canned. Vet gave her Royal canine hypallergenic which I did not like but she ate it, not that much, but more than she has in days. This is not a low carb diet though and vet said I need to find something else. Thankfully she didn't suggest Hills w/d as she has a chicken allergy as my understanding is that its not that low carb anyways. Can anyone recommend which canned foods are best?

Tonight I gave her Instinct 95% meat, the venison one and she ate it which I'm so pleased about. Still less than she would normally would. I plan to give her a bit more before bed and for breakfast and lunch tomorrow then switch to a different flavour but same type. She ate one can of the Royal canine hypallergic in total from yesterday till lunch today. I know its not low carb but not sure how high carbs were? Now she eating lower carbs. Prior to that she was mostly on canned salmon and home cooked pork so that was pretty low carb, high protein too. She was on some Rayne kanagaroo maintainance last week and for past month which was not low carb. Should I stick with the 1 unit of insulin vet recommended for first dose tomorrow and going forward? Vet said to only test BG 6 hrs after but I'm assuming I should test before. Would I need to lower insulin all if her BG is less than 15/18? As she's had a little less carbs tonight and tomorrow morn then she did yesterday and this morn before she had her BG tested. But as mentioned past week has been pretty low carb just not yesterday and this morn. Just want to get our Tinka feeling better and well again! She is on 1/8 steroid for skin issues so planning to wean her off that once she stabilises. Thanks for all the help!!

A bit of further background info:

She has been poorly for about a month slowly getting worse. First I thought she was just being picky about food changes and had lost weight from being on a lean Rayne rabbit diagnostic food no vitamins or minerals for a month, but then noticed her back legs lower and walking strangely (found out today this neuropathy), loss of appetite which is very uncharacteristic, she usually loves food and is food movtivated. I have been unable to get her to eat her usual home cooked foods on Hilary's diet recipes like pork, salmon etc. I believe she has had diabetes quite a while as she was overweight past 6 years and 5 of which she was on kibble. I switched her to home cooked a year ago and she was doing fine. The only noted health issues we have had the past 7 years has been skin issues - stratching, ithcying, licking and biting her skin especially more recently her left side of her face and ears. Vets just treated with steroids a few times a year which I did not like but she ripped her skin off so I didn't know what else to do. The latest holistic vet thought its food allergies so we have been doing a novel home cooked diet. She is still on steroids, a low dose of 1/8 per day. She scratches a little on this but not much. We will try to wean her off completely. Hoping with all the new foods that she doesn't flare up again as we can't reach for steroids like we have in the past. So much to learn!!
 

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Welcome Tanya,
I don't know a lot about dosing but if your vet said to start her on one unit of Lantis I would stick with that. You would check the BG before you give the shot. Its test,feed and then give shot. You should pick up all food at least two hours before testing. It's better to give her less of a dose than too much and risk a hypo, dangerously low blood sugar. Others more experienced can guide you better and there is usually always someone on line. You can also post on the Lantus forum where the folks are experienced with that kind of insulin.
Smoky has severe food allergies to chicken as well. Merrick has some varieties that are chicken free. Welcome to the group you never wanted to join.:bighug::bighug::bighug: I have received so much help on here, these folks are an amazing group of people.
 
My main concern is the statement that your kitty had high ketones.....anything more than "trace" ketones is a medical emergency and if your kitty isn't eating, it's even more dangerous.

Getting enough calories into a DKA kitty is more important than the carb percentage at this point

I'd really suggest you get a 2nd opinion if your kitty has a high ketone level as soon as possible, even if it means going to an ER facility
 
Hi Tanya and welcome to FDMB from a fellow Canadian. I'm in Toronto, ON. So sorry to hear Tinka is unwell but you've come the right place for support.

I have to admit, I am concerned about the high ketones and your description of how sick she is acting. It's encouraging that she is eating some on her own but it's very important she takes in a decent amount of food and that she stays well hydrated. Ketones can lead to diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA) which can be very serious and potentially fatal. Handling it at home is not usually possible. Frankly if she were mine, I'd take her to the ER tonight to get a second opinion. High ketones can turn into DKA quickly and DKA is not only very dangerous but also very very expensive to treat. It would be far better to get a second opinion tonight than to leave it and find her sicker tomorrow.

If there is no vet ER close by and you are going to care for her at home, it's vital you get food into her and keep her well hydrated. If necessary, you can syringe some watered down food into her mouth being careful to give a small amount at a time. You should also get some ketone testing strips so you can test her urine for ketones to make sure they are not increasing. I don't want to panic you but high ketones are cause for action and quickly.

As for the insulin, again, you need to be able to get food into Tinka in order to give her insulin. Yes you should test her BG before administering any insulin. What kind of glucometer are you using (human or pet meter)? Can you reliably test her? If not, that would be another reason to take her to the ER because she needs insulin to help clear the ketones.
 
THIS IS A CUT 'N' PASTE OF A POST MADE EARLIER IN THE WELCOME SECTION THREAD:

--------------------------------------------------

Hi Tanya, and welcome to you and Tinka. I'm sorry she's feeling so poorly; she's got a lot of things going on.

ETA QUOTE FROM WELCOME THREAD:

TanyaG said:
Vet has recommend starting on a very low dose he said of insulin called Lantus, 1 unit twice daily 8 hours apart.
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First up, I'm concerned that your vet advised you to dose Lantus every 8 hours. It is normally dosed every twelve hours. To reassure you that this is not the suggestion of some random crank on the internet I've attached below a published, peer-reviewed study co-authored by Dr Rand of the University of Queensland. Dr Rand is a world authority on feline diabetes. If you read through the document you will see that it advises dosing Lantus every 12 hours. Lantus is a very good insulin for cats.

We have a lot of educational resources about Lantus which we can direct you to in due course.

TanyaG said:
high ketones but not emergency case vet said, loss of appetitie, weight loss,
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I need to post a big RED FLAG about this: if your cat has high ketones she needs specialist treatment by a vet now. Based on all I've learned here about DKA I feel that your vet has NOT given you sound advice here (and that's on top of the questionable dosing recommendation for Lantus). A diabetic producing high levels of ketones needs IMMEDIATE veterinary attention - even more so when the cat has not been eating enough and/or is not getting appropriate levels of insulin, as is the case with Tinka right now.

Ketosis is a medical emergency that requires treatment in a hospital setting. If the ketones aren't addressed straight away a kitty can very quickly go on to develop diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA), a potentially life-threatening complication of diabetes. (Very hard on the cat and very expensive to treat.) Prompt treatment of ketones can prevent DKA.

I recommend in the strongest terms that you get a second opinion from another vet as a matter of great urgency - tonight. Find somewhere where the vet(s) understand the urgency of the situation, who are familiar with treating ketosis/DKA successfully, and who are willing to bring her in quickly for assessment and immediate treatment (intensive insulin therapy with blood glucose and ketone monitoring (with a dextrose drip if required); fluids to keep her properly hydrated and help flush out the ketones; nutritional support (assist feeding if necessary), plus monitoring of electrolytes if required). If she shows signs of deterioration don't wait; either call your own vet's out of hours service or get her to an ER.

While you're sorting out appropriate and timely veterinary support feed Tinka anything she will readily eat. Don't worry about the carb side of things right now - it is vital that she gets plenty of calories. Also do what you can to encourage her to drink (helps flush out ketones). She will also need insulin but I think if you get her to a vet quickly they can start her treatment there.

If you have trouble getting veterinary support post on Feline Health for help and we'll help you as best we can in the meantime.

Once you get the ketone problems sorted we can help you with all the general FD and dietary side of things in due course.

Here is a forum sticky with some DKA information:

http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/...oacidosis-dka-and-blood-ketone-meters.135952/

Please contact a vet with good knowledge of feline diabetes and ketosis/DKA treatment as soon as you possibly can. Contact an ER vet if required. Let us know how you get on when you get a chance.

:bighug:


Mogs


Link back to original posting: http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/...tinka-just-got-diagnosed.169656/#post-1842927
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I do have one thing I have to ask.....You're not thinking that the "K" in the blood test results is ketones, are you?

The high ALB number worries me too....although dehydration can raise that number, it's also possible it's due to hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver) which happens when the cat isn't eating enough
 
hi everyone thank you for your helpful info:) So I went to the vet hospital today it is the only vet hospital in our area, its actually in the next town over. I saw the vet there today and he looked at Tinka and her test results. I was concerned about the ketones as he said they were high but he said its not an emergency case. I also saw my vet yesterday with Tinka and she said the same thing. He said they needed to be further along before they would give her glucose drip etc. So at this point I can't take her to anyone else as there is no vet in our town or neighbouring towns. He said as soon as she starts on insulin tomorrow she should start to feel better. She has now eaten a descent amount of the canned Instinct 95% protein venison tonight which is good she's eating more. She seems to like that I'm offering her something new and must smell stronger and nicer to her then the home cooked, raw and hypoallergenic that she was on before. I have also given her some Orijin raw freeze dried treats - regional cat. Are these suitable for diabetes? If I offer her more she'll probably eat more of these as they similar to kibble but I'm assuming different and not bad as no carbs? They only contain freeze dried meat and organ nothing else. She's not drinking as much as I'd like her to but I'm assuming there is water in the the tinned food. I will monitor her closely and hope she starts to improve after she gets her insulin tmrw. As the vet hospital today in my consult they showed me how to do a blood glucose home test. I bought a glucometer - the brand is called AccuChek. I hope this is a good one? I will try it for first time in the morning. So the order is BG test, feed then insulin? Then wait 6 hours at BG again? Vet said I need to do 6 hours after to see she doesn't drop to low. Then 12 hours after the first insulin shot I repeat BG, feed then insulin?
 
Hepatic lipidosis is another condition that requires immediate attention.

Tinka needs to get intensive food, insulin and fluid support under veterinary supervision.

If Tinka were mine, I would get her to an ER tonight.


Mogs
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TanyaG said:
So the order is BG test, feed then insulin? Then wait 6 hours at BG again? Vet said I need to do 6 hours after to see she doesn't drop to low. Then 12 hours after the first insulin shot I repeat BG, feed then insulin?
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Generally, we Test/Feed/Shoot.....all within 5-10 minutes....You Test to make sure they're high enough for insulin, Feed to make sure they're at least willing to eat and Shoot....it's important that for the Pre-shot tests, you take food up for the 2 hours immediately before so that when you test, you get a number that's not influenced by food.

As for when to test, your vet is partially right....usually the nadir (the lowest point in the cycle) is around 5-7 hours after the shot, so 6 hours is an average, but ECID (Every Cat Is Different) so by testing at different times during the cycle, you'll learn more about when Tinka's nadir is going to be.

You ALWAYS test before shooting and then depending on your schedule, get at least one test mid-cycle on the AM cycle and at least a "before bed" test on the PM cycle....Most cats go lower at night, so it's really important to get PM tests too.
 
Chris & China said:
I do have one thing I have to ask.....You're not thinking that the "K" in the blood test results is ketones, are you?

The high ALB number worries me too....although dehydration can raise that number, it's also possible it's due to hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver) which happens when the cat isn't eating enough
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Hi Chri, no I have no idea what any of the blood work means, I only received the print out results after my vet hospital consult today so didn't get to find out what all the results mean. All I was told yesterday after they did blood work and urine test was that she has Type 2 diabetes and that she had ketone markers. After doing some research last night I was concerned that she had ketones. I brought this up at my diabetic vet consult today at the hospital and told them she wasn't eating or drinking much etc and asked if she needed ER treatment and he said she has high ketones but not an emergency case and that its not DKA. I'm not sure why they use the terminology high ketones if they say she doesn't need ER treatment. So once she starts on the insulin this should help reduce or remove the ketones? How can I test for ketones at home and how often should I do this?

Do you know what the high's and low's are on the test results? The vet didn't discuss all these. Im assuming the high GLU is blood glucose. Is 18.41 very high for diabetes? What should I do about hte high ALB? Should this improve when she eats more then? What is K - high and Cl - low? I noticed that there were a number of other ones that we in range but very much on the low and high side too. Any others I should be aware of? Thank so much!!
 
To start insulin:

Test BG.

Feed Tinka.

Administer insulin injection - (how much does Tinka weigh and is she underweight at the moment?)

Note: under normal circumstances we recommend not to give insulin if preshot test is under 200 (11.1mmol/L international). If this proves to be the case post here for input from experienced members.

Assuming insulin dose has been given test every 3 hours after the injection time.

When measuring on an Accu-Chek human meter numbers should not be allowed to go below 50mg/dL (US) / 2.8mmol/L (international).

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Chris & China said:
Generally, we Test/Feed/Shoot.....all within 5-10 minutes....You Test to make sure they're high enough for insulin, Feed to make sure they're at least willing to eat and Shoot....it's important that for the Pre-shot tests, you take food up for the 2 hours immediately before so that when you test, you get a number that's not influenced by food.

Thanks so much:) When you say you test to make sure they're high enough for insulin what constitues high enough?
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When you say you test to make sure they're high enough for insulin what constitues high enough?
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When you first start, you want her to be above 200 (11.1 on your scale) but that doesn't necessarily mean you don't shoot (makes sense, right?).....If she tests below 200, we'd want you to stall, DON'T feed, and post for help. The first few times you shoot a lower number, we want someone here to be watching over you. We have a rule here.....if someone signs on to watch over someone, they don't leave until they're absolutely sure they're safe or they've gotten someone else to take over the watching.
 
18.41 is 331 on our scale (the US uses a different scale than the rest of the world.....to convert, just multiply your numbers by 18) and no, that's not terribly high in the world of diabetes....it's too high, but not terribly high
 
You can get urine strips at a pharmacy or Walmart to check ketones (e.g. Keto-Diastix). Snag a urine sample by covering the litter in the box with food wrap or similar plastic item and press it down a little to make a small well. Dip the stick into the urine sample and read the result against the colour chart provided with the sticks at the time specified on the pack.

For the time being test at least twice a day.

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You can get urine ketone test strips at any human pharmacy that carries diabetes supplies.....You don't need the strips that measure everything, just ones that measure urine ketones. You just dip the strip into a new urine sample and compare to the scale printed on the side of the bottle of strips.

Here are some Urine Testing Tips too
 
Administer insulin injection - (how much does Tinka weigh and is she underweight at the moment?)

Note: under normal circumstances we recommend not to give insulin if preshot test is under 200. If this proves to be the case post here for input from experienced members.

Assuming insulin dose has been given test every 3 hours after the injection time.

When measuring on an Accu-Chek human meter numbers should not be allowed to go below 50mg/dL (US) / 2.8mmol/L (international).

Tinka weighs 3.9kg currently is underweight. About 3 months ago and for the past few years she has weighed about 4.6-4.9kg a bit overweight. She has lost quite a lot of weight over the past 2-3 months. Her sides are think and her bones around her hips are sticking out a bit now. I think her ideal weight would be around 4.3 / 4.4 kg. She usually will eat all her food and beg for more. Past 2 months she's lost appetite. But thankfully she ate better tonight on the Instinct more than she has in a while.

I'm a bit confused about the BG levels. So Tinka's were 18.41 mmol/L yesterday and I believe 18 today. What is the mg/DL equivalent? The vet gave my readings in mmol/L. When you say 200 you are working in mg/DL? What would the recommended preshot test amount be not to give insulin in mmol/L? Thank you!!
 
The Orijen treats are fine. If you think she needs any more fluids then very carefully syringe some into the side of her mouth. You can check whether she is dehydrated by pulling up her scruff and seeing how quickly it returns to normal. It should almost snap back into place. You can also check her gums to see if they are moist or sticky. Sticky means she is in need of more fluids.

I would highly recommend you give the glucometer (AccuChek is just fine) and testing a go tonight so you know you can do it tomorrow morning.

The "K" is potassium and "Cl" is Chloride. They are electrolytes and are effected by the state of hydration.
 
Critter Mom said:
You can get urine strips at a pharmacy or Walmart to check ketones (e.g. Keto-Diastix). Snag a urine sample by covering the litter in the box with food wrap or similar plastic item and press it down a little to make a small well. Dip the stick into the urine sample and read the result against the colour chart provided with the sticks at the time specified on the pack.

For the time being test at least twice a day.

Thank-you. I have ones at home called Alkala - indicator paper pH 5.2-7.4 are those the right ones to use? What pH would indicate ketones being to high? What is normal? Do your cats mind peeing on plastic? Thanks!
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MrWorfMen's Mom said:
The Orijen treats are fine. If you think she needs any more fluids then very carefully syringe some into the side of her mouth. You can check whether she is dehydrated by pulling up her scruff and seeing how quickly it returns to normal. It should almost snap back into place. You can also check her gums to see if they are moist or sticky. Sticky means she is in need of more fluids.

I would highly recommend you give the glucometer (AccuChek is just fine) and testing a go tonight so you know you can do it tomorrow morning.

The "K" is potassium and "Cl" is Chloride. They are electrolytes and are effected by the state of hydration.
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This is so helpful thank you I will do these tests tonight on her and if she'd dehydrated I will syringe water. How much do you think? So as her K is high and Cl is low that means her electolytes are off balance then. Does she need electolytes or just water? Thanks!
 
Just water should be fine. Her numbers are not horribly out of whack. You could get some Pedialyte but I don't think you need to as long as she is eating.
 
TanyaG said:
This is so helpful thank you I will do these tests tonight on her and if she'd dehydrated I will syringe water
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Do you have any chicken breast meat at home? If yes, poach a little chicken in a goodly volume of water. Use the poaching water to flavour Tinka's drinking water; the flavour may encourage her to drink a little more.


Mogs
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MrWorfMen's Mom said:
Those strips are for pH. (acid base) not ketones. What you have is Litmus paper. You need urine ketone test strips.
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Thank you I will try get these tomorrow. I'm assuming it will say on the urine ketone test strips what is normal and what is high. Such a learning curve I am on, so appreciate all your help!!
 
Critter Mom said:
Do you have any chicken breast meat at home? If yes, poach a little chicken in a goodly volume of water. Use the poaching water to flavour Tinka's drinking water; the flavour may encourage her to drink a little more.


Mogs
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Unfortunatley she's has an allergy to chicken. I have home made duck broth but she didn't like it. I did put a bit of hot water with a some of the canned food last night and mushed it up and she drank a bit of that. I can try that again tonight to increase fluids. So strange and she use to love drinking a lot of water.
 
MrWorfMen's Mom said:
Just water should be fine. Her numbers are not horribly out of whack. You could get some Pedialyte but I don't think you need to as long as she is eating.
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Great thank you! So I shouldn't be concerned about any of the other high and lows on her test results? Is there anything I should do about the high ALB? The vet didn't mention it, I could call and enquire about it tomorrow.
 
Making a 'soupy' consistency with the canned food is a good idea.

Is she OK with tuna? If yes then a little of the water from a tin of human tuna could be added to her water bowl to flavour it.


Mogs
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Critter Mom said:
Making a 'soupy' consistency with the canned food is a good idea.

Is she OK with tuna? If yes then a little of the water from a tin of human tuna could be added to her water bowl to flavour it.


Mogs
.
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Great idea yes she usually loves tuna and the juice I will try this shortly :)
 
Chris & China said:
When you first start, you want her to be above 200 (11.1 on your scale) but that doesn't necessarily mean you don't shoot (makes sense, right?).....If she tests below 200, we'd want you to stall, DON'T feed, and post for help. The first few times you shoot a lower number, we want someone here to be watching over you. We have a rule here.....if someone signs on to watch over someone, they don't leave until they're absolutely sure they're safe or they've gotten someone else to take over the watching.
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Wow that is so great thank you!! I will take note to follow this:) So if she is above 11.1 on my scale does 1 unit of the insulin sound like a good amount? This is what the vet recommended.
 
Chris & China said:
Anything over "trace" is a medical emergency....that's why we're so crazy when you say her ketone levels are "high"
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Yes its very strange he said high. I can request her urine results tomorrow too and share on here. I will try test urine at home myself too and share findings.
 
TanyaG said:
So if she is above 11.1 on my scale does 1 unit of the insulin sound like a good amount?
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Actually, 1 unit may be a little too much

STARTING DOSE: The weight based formula for determining a starting dose of Lantus or Levemir when following the Tight Regulation Protocol:
  • the formula is 0.25 unit per kg of the cat's ideal weight
  • if kitty is underweight, the formula frequently used is 0.25 unit per kg of kitty's actual weight
  • if the cat was previously on another insulin, the starting dose should be increased or decreased by taking prior data into consideration
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Using that calculation, 3.9kg would be .975 unit (which is almost 1U) but we usually like to start a little lower and go up slowly so we'd probably suggest starting at .75U.

Do your insulin syringes have half unit markings?
 
If you're up for some "light reading", there's all kinds of great information in the Sticky's at the top of the Lantus Forum

Another thing you'll want to do is start our spreadsheet to keep track of her numbers. Here are the Instructions on getting the FDMB spreadsheet. Since you're in Canada, you'd want to use the World with a human meter spreadsheet

If you're not technically inclined and have problems, just holler....we can help you get it set up
 
Chris & China said:
Actually, 1 unit may be a little too much



Using that calculation, 3.9kg would be .975 unit (which is almost 1U) but we usually like to start a little lower and go up slowly so we'd probably suggest starting at .75U.

Do your insulin syringes have half unit markings?
Click to expand...

The syringes are so tiny its hard to even see 1 ml but yes there is a litle half mark on the side indicating a half
 
Chris & China said:
If you're up for some "light reading", there's all kinds of great information in the Sticky's at the top of the Lantus Forum

Another thing you'll want to do is start our spreadsheet to keep track of her numbers. Here are the Instructions on getting the FDMB spreadsheet. Since you're in Canada, you'd want to use the World with a human meter spreadsheet

If you're not technically inclined and have problems, just holler....we can help you get it set up
Click to expand...

Thank you I will set this up tomorrow morning then. Will let you know if I need help, probably will there's so much to learn;) So appreciate your help!
My hubby and I are just testing out the AccuChek on ourselves and hubby accidently stuck his test strip with the blood side straight into the machine. Did a new test strip and it keeps flashing with a blood sign, hope we haven't messed it up :/
 
TanyaG said:
The syringes are so tiny its hard to even see 1 ml but yes there is a litle half mark on the side indicating a half
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Emphasis mine.

1 ml would fill the entire syringe and would contain 100u of insulin.....way way too much! The dose you want to give (0.75u), will be a very tiny amount with the plunger lined up between the 1st tiny line on the left(0.5u mark) and the 1st tiny line on the right (1.0u mark) when you are holding the syringe with the needle pointing up. Hope that makes sense.
 
TanyaG said:
Thank you I will set this up tomorrow morning then. Will let you know if I need help, probably will there's so much to learn;) So appreciate your help!
My hubby and I are just testing out the AccuChek on ourselves and hubby accidently stuck his test strip with the blood side straight into the machine. Did a new test strip and it keeps flashing with a blood sign, hope we haven't messed it up :/
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We are just realising the AccuChek requires that the strip be inserted before getting the blood so thats gona be a bit more challenging holding the machine with the test strip inserted and then scraping that against my cat's ear whilst holding her. I think doing it with two will be ok but myself to test during the day will def be more challening. Is it necessary to test every 3 hours? Tinka is not going to be happy with me. Will try give her a treat after to cheer her up. She's a pretty nervous cat.
 
MrWorfMen's Mom said:
Emphasis mine.

1 ml would fill the entire syringe and would contain 100u of insulin.....way way too much! The dose you want to give (0.75u), will be a very tiny amount with the plunger lined up between the 1st tiny line on the left(0.5u mark) and the 1st tiny line on the right (1.0u mark) when you are holding the syringe with the needle pointing up. Hope that makes sense.
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Thank you yes that makes sense I was using the wrong terminology;) 1u yes its the very first small line. To do 0.75 will be every so fractional. Its so small its hard to tell. So I will do 0.75 in the morn after I tested her BG is over 11.01. Then I'll report on here and go from there. Typically would I do 1u in the eve or stick with 0.75? thank you!
 
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