Hello! And best blood glucose meter...

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Check out prices at www.chewy.com, for weruva products and compare what you are paying for the DM. I read something about meat by products, and that can mean organ meats that humans wouldn't normally have in a diet, and perhaps not just be non- nutritional fillers. A cat in the wild will eat most of a mouse, bird..whatever and that's meat by products (skin, etc. ) so it might or not be ok. I wish we knew in more detail what those by products really are. It's very good that you are concerned with what goes into Quincy and his sibling.

I am paying $56 for 24 cans of the DM right now. It looks like, depending on what I get from Weruva, it'd be $33 for 24 cans. Much cheaper, especially if I want to taper my other cat off hard food.
 
I believe that is accurate, it's best to try to change the protein source around..fish, turkey, chicken, beef etc. Just like for humans, a wide base of nutrient sources.

So if you change the protein source around, it doesn't upset the cat's belly? As I've heard of course.
 
Catcat won't eat cooked egg white by itself (guess it doesn't smell like food), but if you mix something else with it, or shred treats on top, down the hatch it goes
 
Catcat won't eat cooked egg white by itself (guess it doesn't smell like food), but if you mix something else with it, or shred treats on top, down the hatch it goes

Egg whites!!! I don't think Quince would eat those in a million years! I've been investigating Fancy Feast as well as Weruva, to try to save some money since both have much higher protein levels than the insanely expensive DM but Weruva seems to be just as pricey and I am nervous, for some unknown reason, about Fancy Feast actually being good for him???
 
So if you change the protein source around, it doesn't upset the cat's belly? As I've heard of course.
I think if you gradually introduce a new protein on the side of the already acceptable food, and see how that goes, then when you have verified that Qunicy's taste buds and GI system are in agreement, then you can offer a variety as you like and is tolerated.

I use different proteins in Idjit's raw diet, but it was a tsp at a time transition from the very beginning, except when I jumped the gun and had to follow him around trying to clean his "pantaloons". :confused::eek:
He gets lots of varieties of the Friskies canned food snack at night with no ill effects.

Some cats are more protein and/or carb sensitive than others, and observing his eating and elimination results are going to tell you more about that. Plus, some cats just don't like some things, like humans. Idjit won't eat tuna, alone or in canned food and turns up his nose at pork and cooked plain fish like salmon and tilapia. Different strokes...:)
 
Egg whites!!! I don't think Quince would eat those in a million years! I've been investigating Fancy Feast as well as Weruva, to try to save some money since both have much higher protein levels than the insanely expensive DM but Weruva seems to be just as pricey and I am nervous, for some unknown reason, about Fancy Feast actually being good for him???
Lots of kitties here on the board get Fancy Feast and Friskies pates and do well. They aren't as high in protein, and some members have changed brands because of higher phosphorus in the FF if their kitties have kidney issues.

Perhaps a combination of the DM or Weruva and less expensive canned foods like the FF would satisfy Quincy's needs, your wallet and your peace of mind? It's a matter of getting good low carb nutritious food into both cats, while not breaking the bank and worrying you over the edge of reason. You are just at the beginning of this adventure and need all your marbles to continue to have a good life and peaceful rest while helping Quincy. :)

Treats of cooked unseasoned chicken, turkey or beef will up the protein intake, etc.
 
Lots of kitties here on the board get Fancy Feast and Friskies pates and do well. They aren't as high in protein, and some members have changed brands because of higher phosphorus in the FF if their kitties have kidney issues.

Perhaps a combination of the DM or Weruva and less expensive canned foods like the FF would satisfy Quincy's needs, your wallet and your peace of mind? It's a matter of getting good low carb nutritious food into both cats, while not breaking the bank and worrying you over the edge of reason. You are just at the beginning of this adventure and need all your marbles to continue to have a good life and peaceful rest while helping Quincy. :)

Treats of cooked unseasoned chicken, turkey or beef will up the protein intake, etc.

All those foods together seem expensive. I found some Fancy Feast shredded (which he likes) with high protein but it's primarily fish. I'm thinking of mixing some DM some FF shreds. Then my other cat would be happy with the FF. What is considered high phosphorus? Is less than 300 okay?
 
I think if you gradually introduce a new protein on the side of the already acceptable food, and see how that goes, then when you have verified that Qunicy's taste buds and GI system are in agreement, then you can offer a variety as you like and is tolerated.

I use different proteins in Idjit's raw diet, but it was a tsp at a time transition from the very beginning, except when I jumped the gun and had to follow him around trying to clean his "pantaloons". :confused::eek:
He gets lots of varieties of the Friskies canned food snack at night with no ill effects.

Some cats are more protein and/or carb sensitive than others, and observing his eating and elimination results are going to tell you more about that. Plus, some cats just don't like some things, like humans. Idjit won't eat tuna, alone or in canned food and turns up his nose at pork and cooked plain fish like salmon and tilapia. Different strokes...:)

Haha pantaloons. That's what I say sometimes, only in Spanish.
 
I don't know the carb value of the FF "shredded", unless that's the "roasted, flaked, chunky" varieties and they are all below the 10%. You can check the Food Chart

The FF Medley Shredded varieties look like 11 to 16 % carbs.

Dr Pierson recommends " start with protein minimum of 40, fat maximum of 50, carb max of 10, and for cats with kidney issues....phos less than 300."

Some of the roasted/flaked/chunky are above her recommended phos less than 300.
 
I don't know the carb value of the FF "shredded", unless that's the "roasted, flaked, chunky" varieties and they are all below the 10%. You can check the Food Chart

The FF Medley Shredded varieties look like 11 to 16 % carbs.

Dr Pierson recommends " start with protein minimum of 40, fat maximum of 50, carb max of 10, and for cats with kidney issues....phos less than 300."

Some of the roasted/flaked/chunky are above her recommended phos less than 300.

Right, that's what I was looking at - flaked, my bad. One or two of them looked good - flaked chicken, flaked tuna, flaked tuna and mackerel with phos less than 300. Specifically, flaked tuna feast. Unless I'm reading it wrong??
 
Haha pantaloons. That's what I say sometimes, only in Spanish.
Yes, he has big fluffy pantaloons and a big fluffy tail, fluffy all over! He goes outside, sits and rolls around in the dried grass and weeds, then brings it all in so we can brush him out.

The avatar pic doesn't show all the lower end, I should see if I can get a better angle of his fluffy buns.
 
Right, that's what I was looking at - flaked, my bad. One or two of them looked good - flaked chicken, flaked tuna, flaked tuna and mackerel with phos less than 300. Specifically, flaked tuna feast. Unless I'm reading it wrong??
You are looking at the right ones.
 
Yes, he has big fluffy pantaloons and a big fluffy tail, fluffy all over! He goes outside, sits and rolls around in the dried grass and weeds, then brings it all in so we can brush him out.

The avatar pic doesn't show all the lower end, I should see if I can get a better angle of his fluffy buns.

I read that you have a Maine Coon. I have his distant, or not so distant relative, a Norwegian Forest Cat. And I know what you mean by pantaloons!
 
I read that you have a Maine Coon. I have his distant, or not so distant relative, a Norwegian Forest Cat. And I know what you mean by pantaloons!
Oh the Norwegian Forest Cats are so beautiful. Is that the breed Quincy is?? Hard for me to tell..I need a vision exam and new spectacles badly! I have already increased the size of the font/screen so I can read the posts on the board.
If Quincy and sibling like those flavors, yes.
 
Oh the Norwegian Forest Cats are so beautiful. Is that the breed Quincy is?? Hard for me to tell..I need a vision exam and new spectacles badly! I have already increased the size of the font/screen so I can read the posts on the board.
If Quincy and sibling like those flavors, yes.

No, Quincy is an American shorthair. No need to enlarge your screen, haha, 'cause he is definitely not the Wegie!! Yes, his name is Paws because he has white Paws but he is gorgeous. And large. How much does Idjit weigh? I know they're a large breed - both of them.

Okay, I just want to make sure that is a healthy choice. It looks like a really healthy choice, especially for the price!
 
Idjit weighs about 16#, he got up to 20# at one point, then the diabetes and he lost weight. He was too chubby, but that's not the way to lose weight. He's not full breed Maine Coon, I saw a picture recently on the FDMB Facebook page and someone had a full breed Maine Coon, my gosh that was a huge cat. I would not like to clean out that litter box, or have to dust/vac up shed hair.

I think you are making some very good choices. Know that when/if budget allows you can augment with some of the more expensive brands. You might be able to find some of them at your local pet stores too, rather than having to order a whole box or case online. My daughter feeds my grandpuddy Soulistic and it's also a good one.
 
Idjit weighs about 16#, he got up to 20# at one point, then the diabetes and he lost weight. He was too chubby, but that's not the way to lose weight. He's not full breed Maine Coon, I saw a picture recently on the FDMB Facebook page and someone had a full breed Maine Coon, my gosh that was a huge cat. I would not like to clean out that litter box, or have to dust/vac up shed hair.

I think you are making some very good choices. Know that when/if budget allows you can augment with some of the more expensive brands. You might be able to find some of them at your local pet stores too, rather than having to order a whole box or case online. My daughter feeds my grandpuddy Soulistic and it's also a good one.

Thank you! Well, the DM is over $50 for a box of 24 so I'm definitely paying quite a bit for that. Maybe one day I'll switch that out for a better food (IMO) like Soulistic or Tiki Tiki.

Yes, Paws is 19 lbs but I know Wegies can get to be 21lbs or over! So I think he's fine. He's completely healthy but I'm still gonna get him on some better food.

I'm getting the insulin today in the mail so I'll let you all know what it is!
 
I'm getting the insulin today in the mail so I'll let you all know what it is!
Oh please do let us know. You are very astute about what you are feeding Quince (and Paws, we need pics!) and it's just as important to get a good education about the insulin. I know this is all rather like running right under Niagara Falls, but it does actually become a familiar routine, the diet, insulin therapy and the home testing. There is information on all the insulins here, with a forum dedicated to the same types of insulin.

Have you been testing Quince at all yet? I am sorry, I can't remember. Please set up the spreadsheet so that we can see the insulin and testing data, then members can view and offer input as you are learning and need help or questions answered.

http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/fdmb-spreadsheet-instructions.130337/
http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/understanding-the-spreadsheet-grid.156606/
 
Oh please do let us know. You are very astute about what you are feeding Quince (and Paws, we need pics!) and it's just as important to get a good education about the insulin. I know this is all rather like running right under Niagara Falls, but it does actually become a familiar routine, the diet, insulin therapy and the home testing. There is information on all the insulins here, with a forum dedicated to the same types of insulin.

Have you been testing Quince at all yet? I am sorry, I can't remember. Please set up the spreadsheet so that we can see the insulin and testing data, then members can view and offer input as you are learning and need help or questions answered.

http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/fdmb-spreadsheet-instructions.130337/
http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/understanding-the-spreadsheet-grid.156606/

I will post a separate reply as well but I got the insulin and it's Basaglar. Obvy I know nothing about it (yet) but plan to check out the Basaglar separate forum.

I only tested Quincy on Sunday. His BSC was 476. I was going to do it last night but never did. I definitely will again soon. I do have a spreadsheet just have to add it to my signature! :)
 
Hi everyone again! The insulin I have for Quincy is Basaglar. His appointment to teach me how to insert the insulin is a week from today! I am getting nervous about everything I have to do - BS checks, insulin injections, food monitoring. I hope it all goes smoothly!
 
I only tested Quincy on Sunday. His BSC was 476. I was going to do it last night but never did. I definitely will again soon. I do have a spreadsheet just have to add it to my signature!
Hopefully you have been able to handle Quincy's ears getting him used to the testing process, because when you are injecting the insulin it's very important to test before every injection to be sure the BG is high enough. Then you will test as you can during the 12 hours between shots, to see how the insulin is working and to see how low the BG goes. Basaglar is dosed based on the lowest number in the cycles, not pre-shot numbers. The spreadsheet is going to be invaluable to you to record and track the data. I am so glad to see this type of insulin, it works well for many of our sugar kitties.
Hi everyone again! The insulin I have for Quincy is Basaglar. His appointment to teach me how to insert the insulin is a week from today! I am getting nervous about everything I have to do - BS checks, insulin injections, food monitoring. I hope it all goes smoothly!
To be honest, not every day or even every cycle may go smoothly. You may have temporary bumps in the road with not being able to get Quincy to let you test (it takes lots of patience and practice for some of us), and you will learn what technique works for you when you do the insulin injections. But, you are already very proactive with the diet, getting your testing supplies and setting up the spreadsheet.
It actually does become routine, and the more you go through the processes, and the more you educate yourself the better off you and Quincy are going to be. Read the stickies at the top of the Lantus/Basaglar forum HERE. That is the forum where you will ask questions about using the insulin and dosing. It's a very supportive forum and I think you will enjoy meeting the fellow glargine users there.

They are very data driven and before offering advice or input, they are going to need to see testing data on the spreadsheet. So, the sooner you begin that, the better. Do you have any idea what dose of the Basaglar the vet wants to start Quincy on? Just a caution, many vets start out with a higher dose than we suggest, basing dose on the few or the one test they have obtained there. If you can start testing more often before you go for injection lessons, that might help them determine a good dose to begin with and hopefully not be too high at the get-go.

Here's the basic testing routine we recommend: (do what you can on work days - before bed is useful along with the essential pre shots)

Test every day AM and PM before feeding and injecting (no food at least 2 hours before) to see if the planned dose is safe

Test at least once near mid cycle or at bedtime daily to see how low the BG goes

Do extra tests on days off to fill in the response picture

If indicated by consistently high numbers on your spreadsheet, increase the dose by no more than 0.25 u at a time so you don't accidentally go right past a good dose

Post on the insulin support group forum (L/B/L forum) for advice whenever you're confused or unsure of what to do.


Even though you are not injecting yet, you still could begin the routine and get some data to provide to the vet so Quince doesn't start out on a higher dose than he actually needs, especially since you have transitioned to the low carb diet.

I think you are going to be just fine, it's just a new learning process and you have been down that road many times before.:cat:
 
Hopefully you have been able to handle Quincy's ears getting him used to the testing process, because when you are injecting the insulin it's very important to test before every injection to be sure the BG is high enough. Then you will test as you can during the 12 hours between shots, to see how the insulin is working and to see how low the BG goes. Basaglar is dosed based on the lowest number in the cycles, not pre-shot numbers. The spreadsheet is going to be invaluable to you to record and track the data. I am so glad to see this type of insulin, it works well for many of our sugar kitties.

To be honest, not every day or even every cycle may go smoothly. You may have temporary bumps in the road with not being able to get Quincy to let you test (it takes lots of patience and practice for some of us), and you will learn what technique works for you when you do the insulin injections. But, you are already very proactive with the diet, getting your testing supplies and setting up the spreadsheet.
It actually does become routine, and the more you go through the processes, and the more you educate yourself the better off you and Quincy are going to be. Read the stickies at the top of the Lantus/Basaglar forum HERE. That is the forum where you will ask questions about using the insulin and dosing. It's a very supportive forum and I think you will enjoy meeting the fellow glargine users there.

They are very data driven and before offering advice or input, they are going to need to see testing data on the spreadsheet. So, the sooner you begin that, the better. Do you have any idea what dose of the Basaglar the vet wants to start Quincy on? Just a caution, many vets start out with a higher dose than we suggest, basing dose on the few or the one test they have obtained there. If you can start testing more often before you go for injection lessons, that might help them determine a good dose to begin with and hopefully not be too high at the get-go.

Here's the basic testing routine we recommend: (do what you can on work days - before bed is useful along with the essential pre shots)

Test every day AM and PM before feeding and injecting (no food at least 2 hours before) to see if the planned dose is safe

Test at least once near mid cycle or at bedtime daily to see how low the BG goes

Do extra tests on days off to fill in the response picture

If indicated by consistently high numbers on your spreadsheet, increase the dose by no more than 0.25 u at a time so you don't accidentally go right past a good dose

Post on the insulin support group forum (L/B/L forum) for advice whenever you're confused or unsure of what to do.


Even though you are not injecting yet, you still could begin the routine and get some data to provide to the vet so Quince doesn't start out on a higher dose than he actually needs, especially since you have transitioned to the low carb diet.

I think you are going to be just fine, it's just a new learning process and you have been down that road many times before.:cat:

Oh yes, I am constantly touching his ears anyway so he is used to that. They're so soft and wonderful! But I have only done one BG check thus far so he's not quite used to those yet. I'll do more this week and weekend to get a read on some more numbers. So when you say it's based on the lowest number in the cycles that means during the tests I do throughout the day, that will tell me how much Basaglar to give him for his evening (or morning) shot?

I have no idea what the vet will want to start him on; the little pen thing says 100unit. But you are correct, I'm sure she is basing it on the only two tests she has from him so I will take more before I go.

I didn't know so much testing was necessary until I joined this forum. The vet only mentioned testing during a BGC but she might say something to me next week about doing more checks.

He still has a bruise on his ear from the check I did on Sunday so I'm not sure how to give a check without such long bruising or unnecessary poke-throughs.

I read somewhere on these forums that if the cat's BG is around 250 that you should err on the safe side and not give the shot. Is that accurate?
 
So when you say it's based on the lowest number in the cycles that means during the tests I do throughout the day, that will tell me how much Basaglar to give him for his evening (or morning) shot?
You will not adjust the insulin dose every morning or evening based on the lowest BG of the cycle. A dose is begun, hopefully at one unit morning and evening. The dose is held for a number of cycles, and you are testing before every shot and during the cycle, to see how it works. You do not adjust constantly, and that saves you worries!. Basaglar is a depot insulin..and takes a few days to a week to build up the depot for the body to draw on keeping the blood sugar levels more balanced, preventing abrupt rises and drops.

Start reading the stickies in the L/B/L forum, they are going to answer many questions.
 
the way to keep the ear bruising to a minimum, is to fold a cotton square/round or folded toilet tissue over the ear where you pricked it, hold (pinch) firmly but not tightly for 10 to 20 seconds .. cats coagulate quite fast so all you are doing is absorbing the extra blood the meter doesn't need, just like a guy putting tissue over a razor scrape, check to make sure you got it all after you pull the tissue away -- since I feed during a test, he settles down and ignores me
 
the way to keep the ear bruising to a minimum, is to fold a cotton square/round or folded toilet tissue over the ear where you pricked it, hold (pinch) firmly but not tightly for 10 to 20 seconds .. cats coagulate quite fast so all you are doing is absorbing the extra blood the meter doesn't need, just like a guy putting tissue over a razor scrape, check to make sure you got it all after you pull the tissue away -- since I feed during a test, he settles down and ignores me

Good to know. I used a cotton swab when I did the BG check on the other side of the ear so I wouldn't poke myself and then i just dabbed off the blood with the cotton swab. I didn't hold firmly and he continued to bleed a little after so I think your advice is perfect. Interesting that you feed during a test. When do you give the insulin injection then?
 
You will not adjust the insulin dose every morning or evening based on the lowest BG of the cycle. A dose is begun, hopefully at one unit morning and evening. The dose is held for a number of cycles, and you are testing before every shot and during the cycle, to see how it works. You do not adjust constantly, and that saves you worries!. Basaglar is a depot insulin..and takes a few days to a week to build up the depot for the body to draw on keeping the blood sugar levels more balanced, preventing abrupt rises and drops.

Start reading the stickies in the L/B/L forum, they are going to answer many questions.

I definitely will read the stickies now! Interesting about the Basaglar. I'm learning so much!
 
I didn't know so much testing was necessary until I joined this forum. The vet only mentioned testing during a BGC but she might say something to me next week about doing more checks.

He still has a bruise on his ear from the check I did on Sunday so I'm not sure how to give a check without such long bruising or unnecessary poke-throughs.
Many vets don't support home testing at all, or sporadically, which is very surprising and upsetting. Human diabetics are told to adjust diet AND test their blood sugar to prevent and detect hypo situations, and to see how the insulin is working. Hypos can be very dangerous and the only way to know before they are symptomatic (and perhaps beyond help) is to be testing consistently.

Bruising happens sometimes :( and a good way to prevent that is not to hit the vein. Back the ear with a folded tissue or paper towel, a cotton ball or cosmetic pad when you poke, after you get the blood sample, gently compress the poke site for 10 - 15 seconds to help prevent bruising.

Here's a pic of the sweet spot that you want to prick with the lancet:


257fb08f-6ac3-4f24-99d2-89228d4bce73-jpeg.32472


You can use a little Neosporin Pain Relief ointment after you get the test done.
 
Many vets don't support home testing at all, or sporadically, which is very surprising and upsetting. Human diabetics are told to adjust diet AND test their blood sugar to prevent and detect hypo situations, and to see how the insulin is working. Hypos can be very dangerous and the only way to know before they are symptomatic (and perhaps beyond help) is to be testing consistently.

Bruising happens sometimes :( and a good way to prevent that is not to hit the vein. Back the ear with a folded tissue or paper towel, a cotton ball or cosmetic pad when you poke, after you get the blood sample, gently compress the poke site for 10 - 15 seconds to help prevent bruising.

Here's a pic of the sweet spot that you want to prick with the lancet:


257fb08f-6ac3-4f24-99d2-89228d4bce73-jpeg.32472


You can use a little Neosporin Pain Relief ointment after you get the test done.

What a small little spot! I don't think I could hit that super accurately but I will try!! What about the 250 number? Don't shoot if it's that or under? I'm still reading the stickies...
 
You find a testing place with good lighting, or use reader/magnifying glasses, some use a headlamp thinger so they have hands free, or use a flashlight in back or front of the poke site to see the vein. The point on the lancet is teeny and with practice you will hit the right area.

From the Start Low, Go Slow section in the stickies:

How to handle a lower than normal preshot number:

In the beginning we suggest following the guidelines in the FDMB's FAQ Q4.4:
Q4.4. My cat's pre-shot level was way below the usual value. Should I give the injection?
A4.4. There's no hard and fast rule, but if you don't have data on how your cat responds to insulin, here are some general guidelines.
  • Below 150 mg/dl (8.3 mmol/L), don't give insulin.
  • Between 150 and 200 (8.3-11.1 mmol/L), you have three options: a.) give nothing; b.) give a token dose (10-25% of the usual dose); c.) feed as usual, test in a couple of hours, and make a decision based on that value.
  • Above 200 (11.1 mmol/L) but below the cat's normal pre-shot value, a reduced dose might be wise.
  • In all cases, if you are reducing or eliminating insulin, it's wise to check for ketones in the urine.
  • Above the normal pre-shot value, give the usual dose, but if the pre-shot value is consistently elevated, it's a good idea to schedule a full glucose curve to see whether a change in dose or insulin is appropriate. In most cases, the target "peak" value should not be below 100 mg/dl (5.6 mmol/L), and for some cats it might be higher.
 
You find a testing place with good lighting, or use reader/magnifying glasses, some use a headlamp thinger so they have hands free, or use a flashlight in back or front of the poke site to see the vein. The point on the lancet is teeny and with practice you will hit the right area.

From the Start Low, Go Slow section in the stickies:

How to handle a lower than normal preshot number:

In the beginning we suggest following the guidelines in the FDMB's FAQ Q4.4:
Q4.4. My cat's pre-shot level was way below the usual value. Should I give the injection?
A4.4. There's no hard and fast rule, but if you don't have data on how your cat responds to insulin, here are some general guidelines.
  • Below 150 mg/dl (8.3 mmol/L), don't give insulin.
  • Between 150 and 200 (8.3-11.1 mmol/L), you have three options: a.) give nothing; b.) give a token dose (10-25% of the usual dose); c.) feed as usual, test in a couple of hours, and make a decision based on that value.
  • Above 200 (11.1 mmol/L) but below the cat's normal pre-shot value, a reduced dose might be wise.
  • In all cases, if you are reducing or eliminating insulin, it's wise to check for ketones in the urine.
  • Above the normal pre-shot value, give the usual dose, but if the pre-shot value is consistently elevated, it's a good idea to schedule a full glucose curve to see whether a change in dose or insulin is appropriate. In most cases, the target "peak" value should not be below 100 mg/dl (5.6 mmol/L), and for some cats it might be higher.

Holding a flashlight, the cat's ear, AND the lancet will be some talent, let me tell you! :) My lancet is 25gauge. I think that might be too big?? What do you think?

Thanks for that info! I'm gonna go check out that exact sticky right now.
 
Interesting that you feed during a test. When do you give the insulin injection then?
Catcat is quick to claw, swat, or bite when he's unhappy -- just easier to feed a minimum amount to get the test, check the test value, then fix a bigger bowl of food and inject while he's eating that -- with Lantus, it's not necessary to have food on board for the injection, but for us it works out to be much easier -- we started on Vetsulin when it WAS crucial to feed prior to shooting
 
Start at the beginning in the stickies with The Basics: New to the Group? Start here!
Then go on to the other stickies, you don't want to miss basic information that you will need when you are just starting out. Yes, look at the two protocols and decide which one you can implement. Just one step at a time, so you have a good basis to take the next step.

Holding a flashlight, the cat's ear, AND the lancet will be some talent, let me tell you! :) My lancet is 25gauge. I think that might be too big?? What do you think?
I haven't used a flashlight and you might start a new thread here in Main Health asking members just how they manage testing with only two hands. I have often wished for a few more appendages myself! I am lucky enough to have DH help with these procedures. The 25 gauge is good to start with, we have usually suggested a 26-28 gauge as the ears need to "learn to bleed". The more you test, the more capillaries form to "heal" the area, and this makes it much easier to get a blood sample going forward. Then, if you wish, you can use 30-31 gauge lancets and not have to make those relatively big holes.
 
one easy way is to invest in some high powered reading glasses from Dollar Tree or equivalent, and pick a place with good lighting to do the test

rather than a flashlight, I have a small portable LCD light (from Harbor Freight, it was one of their free giveaways if you bought something else), I use it more to get the exact dosage on the syringe (light shining up from the side) -- mine is magnetic so if I need to I can stick it so the light shines where I want
 
one easy way is to invest in some high powered reading glasses from Dollar Tree or equivalent, and pick a place with good lighting to do the test

rather than a flashlight, I have a small portable LCD light (from Harbor Freight, it was one of their free giveaways if you bought something else), I use it more to get the exact dosage on the syringe (light shining up from the side) -- mine is magnetic so if I need to I can stick it so the light shines where I want
Very good ideas! you said the magic words: "Harbor Freight". DH waits eagerly for his catalog to come in the mail every month. It's like the old Sears Christmas catalog thing, poring over all the goodies.
 
Start at the beginning in the stickies with The Basics: New to the Group? Start here!
Then go on to the other stickies, you don't want to miss basic information that you will need when you are just starting out. Yes, look at the two protocols and decide which one you can implement. Just one step at a time, so you have a good basis to take the next step.


I haven't used a flashlight and you might start a new thread here in Main Health asking members just how they manage testing with only two hands. I have often wished for a few more appendages myself! I am lucky enough to have DH help with these procedures. The 25 gauge is good to start with, we have usually suggested a 26-28 gauge as the ears need to "learn to bleed". The more you test, the more capillaries form to "heal" the area, and this makes it much easier to get a blood sample going forward. Then, if you wish, you can use 30-31 gauge lancets and not have to make those relatively big holes.

I have started with all the other stickies but holy cow, it is a ton of information. Like A TON. I will try my best to read it all! Thanks for the advice about the gauge size. I'll continue with the 25 gauge and switch to a smaller one as I continue on this journey.
 
one easy way is to invest in some high powered reading glasses from Dollar Tree or equivalent, and pick a place with good lighting to do the test

rather than a flashlight, I have a small portable LCD light (from Harbor Freight, it was one of their free giveaways if you bought something else), I use it more to get the exact dosage on the syringe (light shining up from the side) -- mine is magnetic so if I need to I can stick it so the light shines where I want

Oh, thank you!
 
I have started with all the other stickies but holy cow, it is a ton of information. Like A TON. I will try my best to read it all! Thanks for the advice about the gauge size. I'll continue with the 25 gauge and switch to a smaller one as I continue on this journey.
It is a whole lot of information, and too much for just one read-through. I still go back through and re-read mainly so that I can make correct reference for another member, but also to reeducate myself and refresh my knowledge.
You are not expected to absorb and retain all that info right now. You are only at the very beginning of this new adventure and it's best to walk, and not try to run through any of the steps. Deep breaths..concentrate on learning to test, recording the info, learning to inject the insulin, and don't be afraid to ask questions. We all started at the beginning and will help.

I will ask you though, before you start injections, to let us know what the starting dose is, and the experienced users can look at that and whatever BG data you have. We are very cautious and doses can be adjusted at need.
 
It is a whole lot of information, and too much for just one read-through. I still go back through and re-read mainly so that I can make correct reference for another member, but also to reeducate myself and refresh my knowledge.
You are not expected to absorb and retain all that info right now. You are only at the very beginning of this new adventure and it's best to walk, and not try to run through any of the steps. Deep breaths..concentrate on learning to test, recording the info, learning to inject the insulin, and don't be afraid to ask questions. We all started at the beginning and will help.

I will ask you though, before you start injections, to let us know what the starting dose is, and the experienced users can look at that and whatever BG data you have. We are very cautious and doses can be adjusted at need.

Deep breaths is right!! Thank you for your encouragement to ask questions because I know I'll need to!

I will definitely let you know that when I find out and before injections. The appointment is next Wednesday but I won't start insulin until Friday night or Saturday so that I can be home most of the day to observe how he does. I don't want to give the first injection and then go to work right away; I don't feel right about that.
 
You have plenty of time then to get Quincy and yourself used to testing. Get busy on that and gather as much data as you can between now and then. You will have that under your belt when you start injections. One important note, get some U100 syringes with 1/2 U markings. The syringes the vet sold me at dx had only one U marks and we really needed to be shooting 0.5 U 2xday. We proceeded, in our bumbling fashion, to get two boxes of the wrong kind of syringes..boo.

From Chris & China: You can get them at WalMart (although if you ask, they'll probably tell you there's no such thing....don't listen to them) These are the syringes you want to get. 3/10ml, 31 gauge insulin syringes.
relion-syringes-jpg.47669
 
You have plenty of time then to get Quincy and yourself used to testing. Get busy on that and gather as much data as you can between now and then. You will have that under your belt when you start injections. One important note, get some U100 syringes with 1/2 U markings. The syringes the vet sold me at dx had only one U marks and we really needed to be shooting 0.5 U 2xday. We proceeded, in our bumbling fashion, to get two boxes of the wrong kind of syringes..boo.

From Chris & China: You can get them at WalMart (although if you ask, they'll probably tell you there's no such thing....don't listen to them) These are the syringes you want to get. 3/10ml, 31 gauge insulin syringes.
relion-syringes-jpg.47669

Well of course when I bought the insulin they included the syringes and not knowing better, I got what they told me to get. When I get home I'll look for closely at them but I doubt they're the same. I know they're U100 but I'm not sure about the 1/2U markings. I can't remember the box that well. I'll get back to you!
 
They are probably measured in one unit increments, and many many vets increase or decrease doses in whole units. But our kitty's bodies are so little, can and do respond to much smaller increments..down to a drop even. You can use the one unit syringes with whole unit doses, but it's good to have the others on hand, for one unit doses down the road or to measure smaller doses as needed. They aren't expensive, and won't be wasted.
 
They are probably measured in one unit increments, and many many vets increase or decrease doses in whole units. But our kitty's bodies are so little, can and do respond to much smaller increments..down to a drop even. You can use the one unit syringes with whole unit doses, but it's good to have the others on hand, for one unit doses down the road or to measure smaller doses as needed. They aren't expensive, and won't be wasted.

Oh poop I forgot to look! If they're whole unit doses, which i think they are, I'll pick up the other ones because I agree - one whole unit is a lot to decrease or increase.
 
So I did another BG on Quincy this morning. It was 373. A whole 100 points down from Sunday! I did it before I fed him. BUT I think I pierced his ear through again! What if I keep doing that? I feel like that will keep happening. Is that horrible?

I held a paper towel to his ear for a bit afterwards and this helped so much so thank you!

Oh! And his poop is, as boyfriend described it, looking like soft-serve ice cream. It's not all the time but it's happening with a little more frequency which is nerve-wracking. I'll bring it up at the vet next week.
 
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That BG is better but still needs some help coming down, and you will be doing that hopefully very soon. I wish you didn't have to wait to get him on at least a low dose of Basaglar and help him feel better quicker.

Your technique with testing will improve with practice. Try a thin smear of the Neosporin or Equate Pain Relief ointment or some Aloe Vera gel (as pure as you can find) to the poke site. If you go through the ear, lube both sides. Switch ears when you test and try for slightly different areas, let the previous poke sites heal up a bit.

If you have changed Quincy's diet from dry to wet food, his poop is going to be softer and there will be less of it. Not as much filler to pass through the GI system. At least he's not constipated! If he has very loose stools, diarrhea like, you can give him a teaspoon of plain pumpkin, not pie filling, a couple of times a day. That helps runny and constipation alike, amazingly enough.

Thank you for recording the data in the spreadsheet, it makes it so much easier to review and track. See if you can get a mid cycle reading and another reading either what would be your PMPS (evening Pre-shot) or a before bed test to see what shows up. Good practice.
 
That BG is better but still needs some help coming down, and you will be doing that hopefully very soon. I wish you didn't have to wait to get him on at least a low dose of Basaglar and help him feel better quicker.

Your technique with testing will improve with practice. Try a thin smear of the Neosporin or Equate Pain Relief ointment or some Aloe Vera gel (as pure as you can find) to the poke site. If you go through the ear, lube both sides. Switch ears when you test and try for slightly different areas, let the previous poke sites heal up a bit.

If you have changed Quincy's diet from dry to wet food, his poop is going to be softer and there will be less of it. Not as much filler to pass through the GI system. At least he's not constipated! If he has very loose stools, diarrhea like, you can give him a teaspoon of plain pumpkin, not pie filling, a couple of times a day. That helps runny and constipation alike, amazingly enough.

Thank you for recording the data in the spreadsheet, it makes it so much easier to review and track. See if you can get a mid cycle reading and another reading either what would be your PMPS (evening Pre-shot) or a before bed test to see what shows up. Good practice.

Less than a week for the Basaglar! :)

I guess I just don't see how I WON'T pierce through! I mean they're so thin (the ears) and the lancet is just a pop out and I'm holding the cotton ball behind the ear so the needle won't pierce my finger but still. I feel like I'll always be piercing through. I will definitely pick up some Neosporin or Aloe this weekend for the poke. I did switch ears for today's test and before I left for work I checked the ear and I didn't see any bruising!! So the holding the ear helped.

The thing is, I switched his food in May so I didn't just change the diet. I'm not sure what counts as diarrhea in a cat? It literally looks like soft ice cream. Not vanilla, haha. Do you still recommend the plain pumpkin? And just pumpkin? Where do I get pumpkin?

This weekend I definitely will get a mid cycle reading (though that was the one I did on Sunday) and evening reading. I feed him right before I go to bed so I can test before I feed him. This weekend and next week before the vet appt I plan to get a few more in.
 
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