Frustration from HK! Cannot bring the figures down!

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kimouette said:
Hi there,

I am not trying to give an advise here, but I want to ask you guys if the following idea makes any sens...
Wouldn't Caninsulin/Vetsulin be more appropriate for a cat that has BG levels like that? And especially if Tortie says that after an insulin shot the numbers dont get any lower?
I've read somewhere that Lantus was known to be a "softer" insulin that works on a longer period. As opposed to Caninsulin/Vetsulin that works right away (30% of the effect) and than degressively (70%) until the next 10 or 12 hours.
My vet told me that she doesn't recommend Caninsulin/Vetsulin for cats that have relatively "stable diabetes"cuz with that insulin it's harder to avoid that "rollercoasting" effect of the BGs levels. But for a cat like Tortie's I would think it is very important to get the numbers lowered as soon as possible. MAYBE a quicker insulin could help?

You have brought up a good point about caninsulin working quickly in the front half of the cycle.
While Caninsulin/Vetsulin may not be great to use as your basal insulin because it will not last the full 12hrs since cats have faster metabolism, it can be used as an alternative to Humulin R as a bolus to assist when you are having high numbers around ps times, or rather, in the same situations as when many in the US and Canada use R.

In the beginning, it's very hard to see such high numbers, and it's vital to test urine as often as possible for ketones, but with such constant high numbers as Rosy is getting, Caninsulin would not be sufficient, and could be dangerous with ketones in the picture here.

On Rosy's spreadsheet, there are 2 columns labeled U if you can put the dose for the shot given in those 2 columns as opposed to the far right Comments column, it will be most helpful to those who are reading the spreadsheet.

Now, it looks like you have only 3 days worth of test numbers recorded so far, and all the numbers are during the am cycles. Would it be possible to get some test numbers from the pm cycles? It's almost impossible to know what is going on with numbers from only half days... many cats go lower at night, so with no test numbers, Rosy could be going low in the pm cycles and then bouncing back up higher during the daytime. I don't think that's what is happening, but we don't know because there are no test numbers to prove that theory right or wrong.

You did get a 26.3 and a 16.1 around mid cycle on the 26th and 28th, so you are seeing some movement to lower numbers a bit, but Lantus does not like the dose being changed all the time.... you need to stick to the same dose, for am and pm shots, for at least 3 or 4 days in a row.
If you want to go with the 3units at am and pm, fine. When the shed/depot is settled, you will start to see better numbers, but you will not see improvement if you feed any dry food at all and keep changing the dose.

Here are some DOSING guidelines to help you along:
"General" Guidelines:
--- Hold the initial starting dose for 5 - 7 days (10 - 14 cycles) unless the numbers tell you otherwise. Kitties experiencing high flat curves or prone to ketones may want to increase the starting dose after 3 days (6 cycles).
--- Each subsequent dose is held for a minimum of 3 days (6 cycles) unless kitty earns a reduction (See: Reducing the dose...).
--- Adjustments to dose are based on nadirs with only some consideration given to preshot numbers.

Increasing the dose...
--- Hold the dose for 3 - 5 days (6 - 10 cycles) if nadirs are less than 200(11.1) before increasing the dose.
--- After 3 consecutive days (6 cycles)... if nadirs are greater than 200(11.1), but less than 300(16.7) increase the dose by 0.25 unit.
--- After 3 consecutive days (6 cycles)... if nadirs are greater than 300(16.7) increase the dose by 0.5 unit.

Reducing the dose...
--- If kitty drops below 40(2.2) (long term diabetic) or 50(2.8) (newly diagnosed diabetic) reduce the dose by 0.25 unit. If kitty has a history of not holding reductions well or if reductions are close together... sneak the dose down by shaving the dose rather than reducing by a full quarter unit. Alternatively, at each newly reduced dose... try to make sure kitty maintains numbers in the normal range for seven days before reducing the dose further.


In case you have not seen the info on the shed, here's the info:
Lantus & Levemir – Insulin Depot –AKA- Storage Shed

There's a storage shed/insulin depot under your cat's skin. It has first dibs on the insulin. Once it is filled, the insulin that you shoot doesn't have to go into the shed. It can be used. The shed HAS to be filled before the Lantus or Levemir gets to use the extra on cat's BGs. So by skipping shot, or waiting too long to shoot, or giving a fur shot... the cat starts dipping into it's shed and the next shot or shots have to partially go to refilling shed before they can work on BGs.

When you get impatient and overfill the storage shed by upping the dose too fast, you get into a situation where at first it looks like nothing is happening because the shed is still filling up. Then you reach the point where it is totally full and yet you are still giving a dose that's too high. Now suddenly none is going into shed, because that is full. It is all working on the cat... and the numbers drop out on you.

Worse case scenario is when you over fill the shed/insulin depot... get very low numbers... then empty out shed by dropping dose too much... or having to skip the shot. Then you'll see high numbers from the combo of the effects of rebound and an empty storage shed/insulin depot. Most react by bumping the dose back up which overfills the shed/depot again resulting in a roller coaster ride to nowhere. Not the way to work this insulin.

~ written by jojo and bunny(GA) and Y

INSULIN DEPOT
One's subcutaneous "spare tank" of insulin, which has yet to be used by the body.
Because no insulin injection is immediately 100% absorbed by the body, the yet to be used insulin stays under the skin, the system drawing on this "reserve" as needed. Any such insulin effects that last after the insulin's expected action is over are also known as carryover in some literature.

If you're using only intermediate-acting or long-acting insulin alone (without any short-acting insulin), about 24 hours worth of insulin requirements are in your depot.

The larger your insulin dose, the larger the insulin depot in your subcutaneous fat tissue. Having a large vs smaller insulin depot means the effect of the insulin can be less consistent--more chance of it varying from day to day. This same insulin depot is the reason why it can take anywhere from 2-5 days to see any effect of insulin dosage changes.

This handy "extra tank" is also there to give you a hand if you miss or are late with an injection.

On the other hand, when you do miss an injection, your "spare tank" is very low by next injection time, and so the next injection may have less effect than expected!


So there's you info to explain why changing dose back and forth or too often will create problems with Rosy's numbers.

Rosy got a nice 16.1 mid cycle on the 3units am dose; keep on the 3units dose for a couple more days and if Rosy seems to stay around the 11.1 to 16.6 range in mid cycle, you can increase her dose by .25units, to a new dose of 3.25 units.

There are some cats who take a bit longer for their numbers to settle after a dose change; my Oliver sometimes took 3 days / 6 shots before I could see how a dose was working and if I needed to make a change.

Rosy is getting there; that 16.1 is a terrific number.
Just keep testing for ketones whenever you can and hopefully, this dose will begin to settle as Rosy's body gets used to the lower numbers.

Let's hope that the whiskas canned food is good for her now that her illness has been fixed with meds.
 
I feed Racci at least 3x a day and more if she wants. I feed her after her am test before her shot, after her +6 hour test, and after her +12 hour test before her shot. If you feed closer than 2 hours before a shot (this should read test)it will affect the numbers. That's okay as long as you know they will be higher and that doesn't really matter. But for those 3 tests you don't want to affect them and want true numbers so I usually pick up the food 2 hours before those times. Otherwise I also leave out some watered down wet food.

Rosy is not having soft stool at the moment; fingers crossed. Ive started on giving her canned Wiskas since yesterday. Wiskas is one of the type my cats are all used to eat. Maybe I am not feeding her much on the canned that's why there is no soft stool so far.
Yes, that's what I am advised to do. Develop a new scheduled feeding time for her in related to the Lantus injection. Ive started today. When you say " If you feed closer than 2 hrs before a shot it will affect the numbers" ? I am advised to feed her half hr before Lantus shot.

I'm sorry, I misspoke Where the bold writing is. I meant to say test. I always test on an empty stomach and feed before a shot. I was going too fast. I didn't mean to confuse you.

I'm so glad her diarrhea is getting better. There really is no reason to mess with the dry food then and make her numbers worse as Gayle said. That was just a last resort if she can't take the change all at once.

Melanie & Racci
 
MelanieAndRacci said:
I feed Racci at least 3x a day and more if she wants. I feed her after her am test before her shot, after her +6 hour test, and after her +12 hour test before her shot. If you feed closer than 2 hours before a shot (this should read test)it will affect the numbers. That's okay as long as you know they will be higher and that doesn't really matter. But for those 3 tests you don't want to affect them and want true numbers so I usually pick up the food 2 hours before those times. Otherwise I also leave out some watered down wet food.

Rosy is not having soft stool at the moment; fingers crossed. Ive started on giving her canned Wiskas since yesterday. Wiskas is one of the type my cats are all used to eat. Maybe I am not feeding her much on the canned that's why there is no soft stool so far.
Yes, that's what I am advised to do. Develop a new scheduled feeding time for her in related to the Lantus injection. Ive started today. When you say " If you feed closer than 2 hrs before a shot it will affect the numbers" ? I am advised to feed her half hr before Lantus shot.

I'm sorry, I misspoke Where the bold writing is. I meant to say test. I always test on an empty stomach and feed before a shot. I was going too fast. I didn't mean to confuse you.

I'm so glad her diarrhea is getting better. There really is no reason to mess with the dry food then and make her numbers worse as Gayle said. That was just a last resort if she can't take the change all at once.

Melanie & Racci


Please don't say sorry my dear, I appreciate everybody trying to help me & Rosy in this fight. So far for these two days she did not have soft stool. It's a blessing as I can keep on my canned feeding. Sometimes in between meal, when she was most hungry crying for food that I gave her a few pcs of the non grain
Gayle Shadoe & Oliver said:
kimouette said:
Hi there,

I am not trying to give an advise here, but I want to ask you guys if the following idea makes any sens...
Wouldn't Caninsulin/Vetsulin be more appropriate for a cat that has BG levels like that? And especially if Tortie says that after an insulin shot the numbers dont get any lower?
I've read somewhere that Lantus was known to be a "softer" insulin that works on a longer period. As opposed to Caninsulin/Vetsulin that works right away (30% of the effect) and than degressively (70%) until the next 10 or 12 hours.
My vet told me that she doesn't recommend Caninsulin/Vetsulin for cats that have relatively "stable diabetes"cuz with that insulin it's harder to avoid that "rollercoasting" effect of the BGs levels. But for a cat like Tortie's I would think it is very important to get the numbers lowered as soon as possible. MAYBE a quicker insulin could help?

You have brought up a good point about caninsulin working quickly in the front half of the cycle.
While Caninsulin/Vetsulin may not be great to use as your basal insulin because it will not last the full 12hrs since cats have faster metabolism, it can be used as an alternative to Humulin R as a bolus to assist when you are having high numbers around ps times, or rather, in the same situations as when many in the US and Canada use R.

In the beginning, it's very hard to see such high numbers, and it's vital to test urine as often as possible for ketones, but with such constant high numbers as Rosy is getting, Caninsulin would not be sufficient, and could be dangerous with ketones in the picture here.

On Rosy's spreadsheet, there are 2 columns labeled U if you can put the dose for the shot given in those 2 columns as opposed to the far right Comments column, it will be most helpful to those who are reading the spreadsheet.

Now, it looks like you have only 3 days worth of test numbers recorded so far, and all the numbers are during the am cycles. Would it be possible to get some test numbers from the pm cycles? It's almost impossible to know what is going on with numbers from only half days... many cats go lower at night, so with no test numbers, Rosy could be going low in the pm cycles and then bouncing back up higher during the daytime. I don't think that's what is happening, but we don't know because there are no test numbers to prove that theory right or wrong.

You did get a 26.3 and a 16.1 around mid cycle on the 26th and 28th, so you are seeing some movement to lower numbers a bit, but Lantus does not like the dose being changed all the time.... you need to stick to the same dose, for am and pm shots, for at least 3 or 4 days in a row.
If you want to go with the 3units at am and pm, fine. When the shed/depot is settled, you will start to see better numbers, but you will not see improvement if you feed any dry food at all and keep changing the dose.

Here are some DOSING guidelines to help you along:
"General" Guidelines:
--- Hold the initial starting dose for 5 - 7 days (10 - 14 cycles) unless the numbers tell you otherwise. Kitties experiencing high flat curves or prone to ketones may want to increase the starting dose after 3 days (6 cycles).
--- Each subsequent dose is held for a minimum of 3 days (6 cycles) unless kitty earns a reduction (See: Reducing the dose...).
--- Adjustments to dose are based on nadirs with only some consideration given to preshot numbers.

Increasing the dose...
--- Hold the dose for 3 - 5 days (6 - 10 cycles) if nadirs are less than 200(11.1) before increasing the dose.
--- After 3 consecutive days (6 cycles)... if nadirs are greater than 200(11.1), but less than 300(16.7) increase the dose by 0.25 unit.
--- After 3 consecutive days (6 cycles)... if nadirs are greater than 300(16.7) increase the dose by 0.5 unit.

Reducing the dose...
--- If kitty drops below 40(2.2) (long term diabetic) or 50(2.8) (newly diagnosed diabetic) reduce the dose by 0.25 unit. If kitty has a history of not holding reductions well or if reductions are close together... sneak the dose down by shaving the dose rather than reducing by a full quarter unit. Alternatively, at each newly reduced dose... try to make sure kitty maintains numbers in the normal range for seven days before reducing the dose further.


In case you have not seen the info on the shed, here's the info:
Lantus & Levemir – Insulin Depot –AKA- Storage Shed

There's a storage shed/insulin depot under your cat's skin. It has first dibs on the insulin. Once it is filled, the insulin that you shoot doesn't have to go into the shed. It can be used. The shed HAS to be filled before the Lantus or Levemir gets to use the extra on cat's BGs. So by skipping shot, or waiting too long to shoot, or giving a fur shot... the cat starts dipping into it's shed and the next shot or shots have to partially go to refilling shed before they can work on BGs.

When you get impatient and overfill the storage shed by upping the dose too fast, you get into a situation where at first it looks like nothing is happening because the shed is still filling up. Then you reach the point where it is totally full and yet you are still giving a dose that's too high. Now suddenly none is going into shed, because that is full. It is all working on the cat... and the numbers drop out on you.

Worse case scenario is when you over fill the shed/insulin depot... get very low numbers... then empty out shed by dropping dose too much... or having to skip the shot. Then you'll see high numbers from the combo of the effects of rebound and an empty storage shed/insulin depot. Most react by bumping the dose back up which overfills the shed/depot again resulting in a roller coaster ride to nowhere. Not the way to work this insulin.

~ written by jojo and bunny(GA) and Y

INSULIN DEPOT
One's subcutaneous "spare tank" of insulin, which has yet to be used by the body.
Because no insulin injection is immediately 100% absorbed by the body, the yet to be used insulin stays under the skin, the system drawing on this "reserve" as needed. Any such insulin effects that last after the insulin's expected action is over are also known as carryover in some literature.

If you're using only intermediate-acting or long-acting insulin alone (without any short-acting insulin), about 24 hours worth of insulin requirements are in your depot.

The larger your insulin dose, the larger the insulin depot in your subcutaneous fat tissue. Having a large vs smaller insulin depot means the effect of the insulin can be less consistent--more chance of it varying from day to day. This same insulin depot is the reason why it can take anywhere from 2-5 days to see any effect of insulin dosage changes.

This handy "extra tank" is also there to give you a hand if you miss or are late with an injection.

On the other hand, when you do miss an injection, your "spare tank" is very low by next injection time, and so the next injection may have less effect than expected!


So there's you info to explain why changing dose back and forth or too often will create problems with Rosy's numbers.

Rosy got a nice 16.1 mid cycle on the 3units am dose; keep on the 3units dose for a couple more days and if Rosy seems to stay around the 11.1 to 16.6 range in mid cycle, you can increase her dose by .25units, to a new dose of 3.25 units.

There are some cats who take a bit longer for their numbers to settle after a dose change; my Oliver sometimes took 3 days / 6 shots before I could see how a dose was working and if I needed to make a change.

Rosy is getting there; that 16.1 is a terrific number.
Just keep testing for ketones whenever you can and hopefully, this dose will begin to settle as Rosy's body gets used to the lower numbers.

Let's hope that the whiskas canned food is good for her now that her illness has been fixed with meds.
dry.


Thankyou for that info. It's of great help to me to understand more. I've been taking in lots of material these couple of days & night. That really help me to understand more on Lantus & insulin jabs.
Rosy was recommended by vet to start her dose from 1 unit per day in dec. The dose was increased to to 1 unit x2 times a day after 2 week. The increment has been slow. I was not home testing at that period since the vet said no. The blood test done on Rosy was done on a pre shot & a +8. Blood was drawn from her vein on her front leg.
She was on a BID of 2units for a wk that I started on home test last Sunday (the starting date of the spread sheet). Then I raised the dosage.
The 3 units is a fixed dosage measurement from the nob on the Lantus pen. I did not draw out the Lantus & use a syringe. I am trying to figure out how my 3 units in comparison to the units as mentioned by everybody here. Please bear with me.
 
And, when you mentioned about the pm tests, do you mean testing after the 2nd shot? Her 2nd shot is at 11pm, that will have to get up in the middle of night to test her?
The rest of my 20 cats have been very stressed with what's going on with Rosy & the change in the food & feeding schedule. I really don't want to wake them up in the middle of night for home testing. We have small living space. My cats live together for easy caring for them. There is no separate room where I can take her for testing.
For the past 3 mths on Lantus, Ive been consistent with the shots. I shot her at 10:30 & 23 everyday. The canbe a plus or minus of 1/2 hr but not daily fluctuation.
Since my home testing this Sunday that I tried to change on her food & switch to canned.
 
Ann & Scatcats said:
tortie, you can test her just before the 11pm shot.

Tks! Will do that tonight. It's 5am here. Good morning! Because of the time difference, I've been keeping awake in the past couple of days trying to get in all the good advice from all my lovely friends here! Thankyou so much!
 
Just wondering but is there any way to change your shot times so that you can get at least one test after the 2nd shot?

If the 2nd shot were at 20 or 21, then you could get one test at 23 to see how the 2nd shot is working. That change would depend on whether you can give the 1st shot at 8 or 9am.

If at all possible, it's important to get a test just before bed to see how the shot is working, as many cats go lower overnite. That's why it would be good if your 2nd shot were more around 8pm or 9pm.

It would also be good if you can give Rosy a different treat, like maybe a bit of canned tuna or some pieces of raw or steamed chicken; these treats would be better for Rosy than those few pces of dry food you give her if she acts hungry. You can always give her a spoon of the wet food as well; it could be that she really needs more food. Cats are very good at self regulating; they will eat when they need to eat, so acting hungry may mean that she needs a bit more wet food. Try mixing some water into the wet food you are feeding all the cats as they will find the water is good for them and they will feel fuller longer.

Keeping track of Rosy's test numbers on her spreadsheet will be helpful to you to see how she is doing and if she needs more or less insulin.
 
Gayle Shadoe & Oliver said:
Just wondering but is there any way to change your shot times so that you can get at least one test after the 2nd shot?

If the 2nd shot were at 20 or 21, then you could get one test at 23 to see how the 2nd shot is working. That change would depend on whether you can give the 1st shot at 8 or 9am.

If at all possible, it's important to get a test just before bed to see how the shot is working, as many cats go lower overnite. That's why it would be good if your 2nd shot were more around 8pm or 9pm.

It would also be good if you can give Rosy a different treat, like maybe a bit of canned tuna or some pieces of raw or steamed chicken; these treats would be better for Rosy than those few pces of dry food you give her if she acts hungry. You can always give her a spoon of the wet food as well; it could be that she really needs more food. Cats are very good at self regulating; they will eat when they need to eat, so acting hungry may mean that she needs a bit more wet food. Try mixing some water into the wet food you are feeding all the cats as they will find the water is good for them and they will feel fuller longer.
Keeping track of Rosy's test numbers on her spreadsheet will be helpful to you to see how she is doing and if she needs more or less insulin.

I'll try to do a +2 after the 2nd shot to see her figure.
I've restricted her to 3 canned meal a day with loads of water added to the food. Stopped her from eating free feeding at the buffet table (5 different dry food free feeding 24x7) where her buddies were still enjoying the serving.
This is very difficult as I don't want to cage her & at the same time she is constantly asking for food.
 
You've mentioned the tight space, so I though I'd check - do you have shelves or some tall cat trees so the cats can get out from underfoot? That's a way to spread them out a bit more without taking lots more floor space (ie think vertically)

Also, if there is enough head room, placing some bricks or cement blocks underneath the feet of beds and such to raise them 4-8 inches, can provide some additional space underneath those, for cats, or storage.
 
BJM said:
You've mentioned the tight space, so I though I'd check - do you have shelves or some tall cat trees so the cats can get out from underfoot? That's a way to spread them out a bit more without taking lots more floor space (ie think vertically)

Also, if there is enough head room, placing some bricks or cement blocks underneath the feet of beds and such to raise them 4-8 inches, can provide some additional space underneath those, for cats, or storage.

I've built in cat corridor for my furry kids in the sitting room. They love going up there playing, but as they age, they are not energic . I've alot of vertical space for them but they all wanted to stay close. Only 3 pf them are male, the bulling & fighting is not much. People here abandon female kitties & keep the male. Still a lot never desex their cat. My cats were all stray. Some were from the same litter from stray mom. I think families or sibblings should not be separated that's how I've so many. 15 of them are over 10 yrs old while the other 5 are 6 yrs old. :lol: I've stopped adopting for a few yrs already. Would love to but I cannot manage anymore. Don't worry about the space for my cats. They are well taken for. It's the parents (me & my poor husband) who is having a tiny sleeping area :mrgreen:
 
:lol: That's funny Tortie. I think at this time while Rosey has high numbers she may need another wet meal. A lot of diabetic cats eat 4x a day especially in the beginning when they are not regulated and have high numbers. Once they get regulated they are not as hungry and don't pee rivers anymore or drink as constantly. It wouldn't hurt to give another meal a day and always make sure she has lots of water. Diabetics drink a lot usually.

It's wonderful of you to take in so many. It's so hard for them on the street. They're very lucky to have you

Melanie & Racci
 
Hi tortie,
just wondering on the size of your 'cans' of food you are feeding Rosy. Are they 3oz, or 5.5oz or 13oz? In the beginning, most of us have had our cats eating a great deal more than usual because they're not capable of extracting the nutrients they need from the food, BUT as they get more regulated, getting to the dose of insulin they need, their appetite drops off.
My Oliver once was eating around 30ounces a day or more! Now, he's closer to 10 or so.
My Shadoe was eating close to 24ounces a day but now she could have a day where she may eat only 6ounces or less!

If possible, aside from mixing in the water to Rosy's wet food, maybe add a bit more food if she is asking for more food. It would be good to know how much food total in ounces that Rosy is eating, and about keeping her from the dry.... you are stopping her from getting sick, so please don't think she is suffering without dry food.... she is healing now that you have taken the dry food away.

I am sure that you are going to see your Rosy looking better with each day.
 
Gayle Shadoe & Oliver said:
Hi tortie,
just wondering on the size of your 'cans' of food you are feeding Rosy. Are they 3oz, or 5.5oz or 13oz? In the beginning, most of us have had our cats eating a great deal more than usual because they're not capable of extracting the nutrients they need from the food, BUT as they get more regulated, getting to the dose of insulin they need, their appetite drops off.
My Oliver once was eating around 30ounces a day or more! Now, he's closer to 10 or so.
My Shadoe was eating close to 24ounces a day but now she could have a day where she may eat only 6ounces or less!

If possible, aside from mixing in the water to Rosy's wet food, maybe add a bit more food if she is asking for more food. It would be good to know how much food total in ounces that Rosy is eating, and about keeping her from the dry.... you are stopping her from getting sick, so please don't think she is suffering without dry food.... she is healing now that you have taken the dry food away.

I am sure that you are going to see your Rosy looking better with each day.


Such Good news!! I must share with you all!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

This morning I found Rosy climbed to the top of a 5ft cat tree looking for food. Remember only yesterday, she's dragging her rear legs! And she was w/o food the whole night! I tested her preshot; its a 21 (378) ! This is such good news because she used to have preshot at 500+!!
I gave her the scheduled shot of 3u & food. Will test her later at +6.

As for the canned food give, she eat around 200gm of Wiskas canned food plus a small plate of chicken filet yesterday.
 
Ann & Scatcats said:
Good news, tortie

Thankyou Ann& Scatcats! I am wondering why is the figures fluctuating as much. Is it a norm for diabetics ? I've caged Rosy most of the time since her rear legs has gained a bit of strength, she can jump & get to dry food. For the previous 2 days she did not have any dry food.
 
tortie58 said:
Ann & Scatcats said:
Good news, tortie

Thankyou Ann& Scatcats! I am wondering why is the figures fluctuating as much. Is it a norm for diabetics ? I've caged Rosy most of the time since her rear legs has gained a bit of strength, she can jump & get to dry food. For the previous 2 days she did not have any dry food.

I am hoping you can find a way for Rosy to be not caged; the dry food is not good for any of the cats, so you could try what I needed to do because I have 2 diabetics and one cat who would not switch to wet: I took up the dry food when I was not around but let the wet food available for all cats.

If your other cats are truly hungry, there is no reason why they cannot eat wet food. I once thought that I was being mean to my one cat by removing the dry food, but I was not ... if there is always wet food available for the cats, then you are NOT depriving any cat of food.... it's there but they have chosen to eat it or not to eat it, yes?

When you are around again, you can uncover/put back the dry food for the others.

Here's how I look at the dry food.
Say you have 5 children and they have all been eating McDonalds hamburgers and french fries, and ice cream and cookies, every single day of their lives. They have all this food available to them all the time, anytime they want some, they can just grab it from the table or frig and eat.
One day, one of the five children gets sick and the dr tells you goodness, you need to give this medicine, and you have to start feeding this one child fruits and vegetables and salads, cutting out all the old diet.
What would you do?

Would you go home, give the medicine to the one child, and give a healthy meal to that child, but tell that child you have to stay in your room all the time now. You can't come out to sit on the sofa and watch TV or look out any windows, or walk around free anymore because you may be tempted to grab a cookie or some of that bad foods.

Nope. I bet you would think oh oh, I need to have my other 4 children to eat those veggies because I did not realize I was feeding a diet that could possibly make them sick.
 
Another thing to consider when caging Rosey is that she is just getting back the use of her legs. You want to let her exercise those legs and use them, not keep her restricted so she can't move much. You know the saying, if you don't use it you'll lose it. That's very true.

I would put them all on the wet and do like gayle said. If the one will only eat the dry, then she will have to eat separately or when you are home or If she has a special place she likes to go to that the others don't usually go maybe you can put her food there with a cover that she can move when she's ready to eat.
 
Gayle Shadoe & Oliver said:
tortie58 said:
Ann & Scatcats said:
Good news, tortie

Thankyou Ann& Scatcats! I am wondering why is the figures fluctuating as much. Is it a norm for diabetics ? I've caged Rosy most of the time since her rear legs has gained a bit of strength, she can jump & get to dry food. For the previous 2 days she did not have any dry food.

I am hoping you can find a way for Rosy to be not caged; the dry food is not good for any of the cats, so you could try what I needed to do because I have 2 diabetics and one cat who would not switch to wet: I took up the dry food when I was not around but let the wet food available for all cats.

If your other cats are truly hungry, there is no reason why they cannot eat wet food. I once thought that I was being mean to my one cat by removing the dry food, but I was not ... if there is always wet food available for the cats, then you are NOT depriving any cat of food.... it's there but they have chosen to eat it or not to eat it, yes?

When you are around again, you can uncover/put back the dry food for the others.

Here's how I look at the dry food.
Say you have 5 children and they have all been eating McDonalds hamburgers and french fries, and ice cream and cookies, every single day of their lives. They have all this food available to them all the time, anytime they want some, they can just grab it from the table or frig and eat.
One day, one of the five children gets sick and the dr tells you goodness, you need to give this medicine, and you have to start feeding this one child fruits and vegetables and salads, cutting out all the old diet.
What would you do?

Would you go home, give the medicine to the one child, and give a healthy meal to that child, but tell that child you have to stay in your room all the time now. You can't come out to sit on the sofa and watch TV or look out any windows, or walk around free anymore because you may be tempted to grab a cookie or some of that bad foods.

Nope. I bet you would think oh oh, I need to have my other 4 children to eat those veggies because I did not realize I was feeding a diet that could possibly make them sick.

Thankyou Gayle Shadoe & Olive! I'll move my cats from a free feeding dry plus 2 meal of wet food to a3 meal of wet food plus occasional dry (no grain). The transition must go slow since they are very stressed with what is happening now; the lack of dry put out for them during the night as Rosy is freed during the night.
The issue I am facing now is:
1/ Will a no grain diet hurt those old cat with a fragile kidney since is high in protein? None of them has kidney issue so far, thank God!
2/ We were taught supermarket canned is bad for our cats. I know the Wiskas I am feeding Rosy is not desirable but I cannot afford to hav all of them eating the no grain canned food which is extremely costly in HK.
3/ Rosy cannot go free feeding at the moment since I've limited her to 3 meals a day & the time of feed to match with Lantus. Can I free feed ?
4/ will free feed on canned make those fatties even more fat , and not to mention the fear of diarrhea for 21 cats!

I wish to move the transition quicker too.
 
MelanieAndRacci said:
Another thing to consider when caging Rosey is that she is just getting back the use of her legs. You want to let her exercise those legs and use them, not keep her restricted so she can't move much. You know the saying, if you don't use it you'll lose it. That's very true.

I would put them all on the wet and do like gayle said. If the one will only eat the dry, then she will have to eat separately or when you are home or If she has a special place she likes to go to that the others don't usually go maybe you can put her food there with a cover that she can move when she's ready to eat.


MelanieAndRacci, I really don't want to cage Rosy. But because I'm giving her 3 fixed meal a day with the time matching with Lantus, I cannot let her get to the free feeding of dry food placed everywhere at home. She is freed at night when all food removed and when I am watching her closely.
Im thinking of ways to make the change smoothly for my 21 cats. They are already stressed by what's happening already.
Anybody got experience with multiple cat household. It is 21 cats with age ranging from 12 to 5.
 
If your cats are eating wet food now, you should be able to switch them to wet easily.

As for free feeding, it's MORE important for Rosy to have food whenever she needs it, but the other cats can wait till 3times a day feeding. I would leave wet food available all the time, then put down dry food just a few tirmes during the day for the the other cats. I think that wet food would be better for cats with possible kidney problems, not dry food. I would think you want to have your cats with kidney issues to be on wet food as they need the water badly.
http://www.fabcats.org/owners/kidney/crf.html

That way, you do not have to lock up Rosy like she has done something wrong.
Leave wet food down for all the cats, and then put down some dry food at meal times for the other cats.
 
Gayle Shadoe & Oliver said:
If your cats are eating wet food now, you should be able to switch them to wet easily.

As for free feeding, it's MORE important for Rosy to have food whenever she needs it, but the other cats can wait till 3times a day feeding. I would leave wet food available all the time, then put down dry food just a few tirmes during the day for the the other cats. I think that wet food would be better for cats with possible kidney problems, not dry food. I would think you want to have your cats with kidney issues to be on wet food as they need the water badly.
http://www.fabcats.org/owners/kidney/crf.html

That way, you do not have to lock up Rosy like she has done something wrong.
Leave wet food down for all the cats, and then put down some dry food at meal times for the other cats.

I'm afraid the the free feed of wet food will bring up Rosy's bg . Her figures are still very high most of the time. Hope it will come down gradually with the new schedule & the canned.
The fatty will finish off all left out canned food & get even more fat, isn't it?
 
The dry food is much more fattening and the fatties are probably already doing that with the dry anyway so it shouldn't matter much. It will probably help them lose weight.
 
Finally there is a bit of progression with Rosy. I've updated the SS.
Still struggling with the removing of dry food from their diet.
 
All 13 of mine are basically free fed canned food, I put out fresh 4 times a day, since I'm home with them all day. But my fatties have lost weight and my skinny mini's have gained weight on this feeding arrangement, as well as one of my diabetics has gone into remission and off insulin, the other is still insulin dependent, but I have recently switched her insulin and since the switch she is getting a much better response and I now have high hopes that she too will go into remission as well.

Mel, Maxwell, Musette & The Fur Gang
 
MommaOfMuse said:
All 13 of mine are basically free fed canned food, I put out fresh 4 times a day, since I'm home with them all day. But my fatties have lost weight and my skinny mini's have gained weight on this feeding arrangement, as well as one of my diabetics has gone into remission and off insulin, the other is still insulin dependent, but I have recently switched her insulin and since the switch she is getting a much better response and I now have high hopes that she too will go into remission as well.

Mel, Maxwell, Musette & The Fur Gang

Oh MommaOfMuse, please tell me more how you do it! Free fed of canned food, do you just leave out the food for them? How to monitor if everyone get their share? How about those resistant to canned ? My 21 cats have been having dry food ever since. 21 of them with age from 12 to 5. Do you feed them in the middle of the night?
What type of canned you're feeding them? The no grain canned is very expansive in HK.
 
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