Freddie's SS can you view it!

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Yvonne & Freddie

Member Since 2014
3-13 AMPS 314

I want to especially thank Chris for sticking with me and helping me get this spreadsheet going couldn't have done it w/o you Many thanks...doesn't look like anyone else's though is that alright?

I feel so much better now and I know I can do this. Thanks all for hanging in there with me.
This has been the most difficult disease I have had to deal with Freddie.
Am testing more today and it is not getting easier for me...I just hate to pick his ears..
Thanks all
Yvonne
 
I can see it, even on my phone (which doesn't always cooperate!)

First really important note:
Stick with a Lantus dose for 6 shots (aka cycles) before changing the dose, UNLESS Freddie goes below 50 mg/dL (2.7 mmol/L), which earns an automatic reduction of 0.25 units. Lantus has carryover, so you have to give it time to stabilize at new levels.
 
Now you're ready to use this chart!

Comparing a human glucometer to a pet-specific glucometer is like reading temperature in Celsius vs Fahrenheit. Both are correct. You just need to know the reference ranges to interpret what the numbers mean.

[Glucose reference ranges are unsubstantiated and have been removed by Moderator]


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Examples of using the chart:

Ex. You are a new insulin user and you test your cat before giving insulin. The test is 300. It probably is safe to give insulin.

Ex. You are an established user of Lantus, following the Tight Regulation protocol. You've tested around +5 to +7 to spot the nadir. It is 200 mg/dL. You probably need to increase the dose, following the instructions for the protocol.

Ex. Your cat is acting funny. The eyes are a bit dilated. You are concerned and test the glucose. The number is 35 mg/dL. ACK! The cat may be in a hypoglycemic state. You quickly follow the HYPO protocol linked in the glucose reference values chart. (which we really, really, suggest you print out and post on your refrigerator.)
 
Yvonne, testing is just a matter of time. As you get more tests in, the ears will grow more capillaries and then it becomes easier. This is called "learning to bleed".

Most cats just don't like having their ears fooled with. The edges of their ears don't have many pain receptors, so it doesn't really hurt them. It will help if you desensitize Freddie to having you fool with his ears.

Decide on where you want your "testing spot" to be. It should be someplace convenient for you so you can reach his ears, as well as having someplace to put all the equipment.

Take Freddie to the "Testing spot" as many times a day as you can think of it, and just rub his ears. Even if it's only for a second or two, make sure to give him a yummy treat (low carb of course), or something he enjoys like petting, grooming or a belly rub...whatever works best for him as a "reward" for letting you play with his ears.

As you do this more and more, he'll learn to associate that "testing spot" with the yummy treat, or whatever his "reward" is and won't even notice when you're actually poking.

If you're using a lancet device, you might try "free-handing" instead. Some cats just don't like the "click" of the devices. Also, get some lancets that are for "Alternate site testing"...they're usually 26 or 28 gauge so make a bigger "hole". Most lancets that come with the devices are 30 to 33 gauge which are very tiny. Once his ears "learn to bleed", you can go back to using those higher gauge lancets.

Here are some other Ear testing tips as well as some ear testing psychology. Hopefully you'll find something that works for you and Freddie!
 
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