Just got a true reading
22 mml - so she is high but the vet maintains to keep her on 2 units *2 a day for three weeks and get a fructosamine test.
any thoughts would be much appreciated
Hi there, are you in the UK? Just wondering because you're saying you're having to switch to Caninsulin because of Prozinc shortage. ...I'm in the UK, and am waving to you from Surrey!
she was on 3.5 units of prozinc, how much difference is caninsulin to prozinc?
is it stronger? As we have started on 2 units to air on caution.
There are some little differences between Caninsulin and Prozinc.
Caninsulin isn't 'stronger' than Prozinc (it has the same number of units of insulin per ml as Prozinc), but it 'typically' has a faster action and so can drop the blood glucose faster and more steeply in some kitties. Also, it 'typically' has a shorter duration, and may not last the full 12 hours.
A lot of UK kitties will probably be switched (by vets) to Caninsulin because of Prozinc not being available at the moment. Hopefully this will only be a temporary issue (fingers crossed).
If Caninsulin doesn't work well enough for your kitty then your vet can prescribe an alternative insulin. Since Prozinc isn't currently available that would mean switching to a human insulin such as Lantus or Levemir. There are now quite a few UK kitties on these insulins. ....However...since your vet hasn't actually suggested that you switch to one of these it seems reasonable to suppose that your vet has no experience of these insulins. That is not unusual in the UK. A vet's willingness to prescribe human insulins varies a lot. Some vets are keen to prescribe them, some vets totally refuse, some don't even know they have the option to prescribe them...
Do persist with learning to hometest blood glucose. 'Hometesting' is enormously helpful in managing diabetes. And if you can test at home you will be able to 'see' how the insulin is working in your kitty's body. If it's not working well then that blood test data could be very helpful in persuading your vet to prescribe an alternative insulin.
Janet has given you some great advice on hometesting (and some fab pics!). In addition to that here are a few things that I wrote for someone else that
may be helpful. If you need more help, just shout out!
HOMETESTING TIPS & TRICKS
1. WARM EARS. Probably THE most important thing. Warm ears bleed very much more easily than cold ones. You can warm an ear by massaging it, or by holding something warm against it; ie a pill bottle filled with warm water, or a ‘rice sock’ briefly warmed in the microwave.
2. MASSAGING immediately below the ear prick, with finger and thumb, can ‘milk’ more blood out. I almost always do this, if only for a second or two.
3. VASELINE. A teensy weensy smear of Vaseline on the outer edge of the ear will enable the blood to ‘bead up’ and stops it disappearing into the fur. This also makes it easier to see the blood droplet if the kitty has dark ears.
4. RESISTANCE. The lancet needs something to ‘resist’ otherwise it can push the ear away rather than pricking it effectively. Some folks use a piece of cotton wool or folded tissue. I use one of my fingers, but sometimes do accidentally take a blood sample from myself that way.
5. TWO EAR PRICKS close together can often produce enough blood for a test when one ear prick might not.
6. SCOOPING THE BLOOD DROP ONTO YOUR FINGERNAIL. Doing this is a game-changer for some people. If you can get that drop of blood on your finger or thumb nail you can then let the kitty go and finish the test without her/him.
7. TREATS. It is important to reward the kitty for each attempted test, whether the test was ‘successful’ or not. Cats very soon learn to associate tests with treats. And some will soon come running for their tests. A ‘treat’ is usually a food reward of some kind, but some folks reward their kitties with a cuddle or a grooming session. I actually crumble a few treats for my cat and test him while he’s hoovering up the crumbs.
Remember to reward yourself too. Chocolate is good…
8. GET COMFORTABLE. If you are physically comfortable you’ll be more relaxed, and also less likely to try to rush the process. Some people like to test their cats on a counter top or a desk, maybe next to a desk lamp. Some people prefer to hold their cats on their laps when they test. Some folks incorporate testing into a grooming session. You’ll find what works best for you. And once you get used to home testing you’ll quite possibly be able to do it anywhere, and maybe even while the kitty is asleep.
9. RELAX. Cats pick up on our moods. The more relaxed and ‘matter of fact’ we are, the more relaxed and confident the kitty is likely to be. Some people chat or sing to their cats while they test him. Try it. It might help you too.
10. PATIENCE. Be kind to yourself. You’re learning something new. (And you’re learning something wonderful!)
For sensitive cats who really resist testing it's possible to use the pleasure association of food to make the process easier. This really good little video shows the principles of 'desensitisation and counter-conditioning'. The vet in the video is getting a cat used to injections, but the same principles can be applied to testing: