Dry Carbs vs Wet Carbs

Status
Not open for further replies.

owlgal

Very Active Member
I was reading on another site (diabetic Cat Care) that there is a difference in the Dry vs wet carbs. They say it is the Dry carbs in the food you need to watch out for. I have been following the formual they suggested to figure out the dry carbs and also bunching it in under http://sweetkitties.net/downloads.html
Click under carbcalulator.zip. They also have a spreadsheet set up to plug in your foods.

What do you all think? On binky's list some of the list of food's are higher in dry carbs and over the 10% rule. I'm not sure what to think.

WHat do you all think? What is your experience.

Lori
 
This is what i found on the site:

How to Calculate Carbs on a Dry Matter Basis

First, use the Nutritional Analysis figures whenever possible, as these are true numbers for each flavor, while the Guaranteed Analysis numbers are averages. Unfortunately, manufacturers seldom print NA numbers on the food labels, using instead the GA numbers. Their websites will sometimes provide NA info.

Looking at the Guaranteed Analysis (GA) on the label, add up the values for protein, moisture, fat, fiber, and ash (if listed - sometimes it is not). Then subtract those values from 100 - the difference is the wet matter carbs. So, if we have a food with 78% moisture, 11% protein, 5% fat, 2% fiber and 1.5% Ash, the calculation would look like this:

78.00 + 11.00 + 5.00 + 2.00 + 1.50 = 97.50 Subtract that from 100, and the remainder, 2.50, is the WET matter carbs.

However, when comparing the carbohydrate contents of any food, it must be done on a dry matter basis, even with dry food, as dry does contain some small amount of moisture. So, looking at the Guaranteed Analysis on the label once again, subtract the moisture content from 100 - in this case, the difference is 22. Then divide your wet matter carbs by this number. So...

2.50 divided by 22. = 11% carbs on a dry matter basis.

This is an easy formula, and once you've done it a few times, you will be able to look at the GA and pretty much know what the carb content is based on the values given. Remember, though, ingredients are just as important as the carb content - you want food with no grains (including rice or soy) no veggies, fruits, glutens, or cornstarch, and no gravy. Broth is fine, as long as it is not thickened with starches.

For your convenience, an electronic tool to calculate carbs on a dry matter basis is available at Sweetkitties. The file to download is CarbCalculator.zip


Many low carb canned foods contain fish, beef or meat of unknown origin but are great for transitioning cats from dry to canned. However, they may be inappropriate for diabetic cats, or cats with food allergies or gastrointestinal disorders. Fish should be fed sparingly, but can serve as an excellent tool for transitioning cats on to canned food. Likewise, liver varieties can be addictive and contain Vitamin A which can be toxic to cats in excess, therefore should not be fed in large amounts.

Pet food companies are continuously changing their recipes for pet food. As a result, even though the food lists in the Info stickies for various countries contain foods that were low in carbs at the time of compiling the lists, we strongly urge you continue to verify the carb content from time to time.
 
Sue, I asked my vet about this when discussing a raw food diet. He wouldn't endorse the diet, but he said that if he could pick a perfect meal for a cat, it would be a couple small birds or mice. So, in that respect, beef, fish, and liver are not on the menu. Of course, my Baxter spent the first year of his life eating out of trash cans, so for him, a perfect meal is anything that smells like rotting food! :)
 
Lori,
Of the top of my head.....I don't buy it. First off Guaranteed Analysis is worthless. It doesn't tell you anything, just what the minimum or maximum percentage of the contents is. It is NOT exact.
I trust Janet and Binky's formula. I'll find a site and post the explanation of why GA means nothing.

(I think it all comes down to "they" are not saying the same thing that we are saying when it comes to carbs.... It may be a case of both formulas are "right", but their formula doesn't work in FDMB language....details below.)

Plus, they contradict themselves. First they say:
as these are true numbers for each flavor, while the Guaranteed Analysis numbers are averages.
And then they say:
This is an easy formula, and once you've done it a few times, you will be able to look at the GA and pretty much know what the carb content is based on the values given.
In the first statement they say GA is not reliable because it's just an average. Then they tell you to take that unreliable number and you'll "pretty much know what the carb content is"??? I think it's as accurate as pin the tail on the donkey if that's the "exactness".


This is from J & B's site, so you know where she got her numbers.
Numbers based on "as fed" or "actual" analysis, not "guaranteed" analysis, supplied by the manufacturers.

This is what is missing from their calculations as far as I can tell:
Assumptions: Protein and carbohydrates contain 3.5 kcals per gram, and fat contains 8.5 kcals per gram.

Here is Janet's formula, which is not the same as theirs. They don't mention that I can see, anything about percentage of calories from carbs. Just a carb percentage, which is not the same thing. Her's is all about calories, and fat, protein and carbs have different values as far as calories per gram of food.

They aren't comparing apples to apples.

Q. How do you calculate the numbers on the table?
A. The numbers on the table are expressed as "percent of calories" (protein, fat, carbohydrate) or "amount per 100 calories" (fiber, phosphorus), based on as-fed information provided by the manufacturer. For pet foods, I follow the usual assumption that protein and carbohydrate each contain 3.5 calories per gram, and fat contains 8.5 calories per gram. You can use this Excel spreadsheet to see how the calculations are done, or read the longer explanation:
1.) Obtain "as fed" or "dry weight" values of protein, fat, carbohydrate, fiber, and phosphorus from manufacturer. Cross check: if you also have values for water and ash, the values of protein, fat, carbohydrate, fiber, ash, and water should add up to 100%. None of them should be negative.

2.) Calculate the amount of protein, etc, in 100 grams of food by dropping the percent sign. (Example: if a food is 9.5% protein, 100 grams of that food will contain 9.5 grams of protein.)

3.) Calculate total calories by multiplying protein by 3.5, fat by 8.5, and carbohydrate by 3.5, and summing the results.

4.) Calculate percent of calories from protein by dividing 3.5*protein by total calories. Calculate percent of calories from fat by dividing 8.5*fat by total calories. Calculate percent of calories from carbohydrate by dividing 3.5*carbohydrate by total calories. Cross-check: these numbers should add up to 100%, except for rounding error.

5.) Calculate grams of fiber per 100 calories by dividing fiber by total calories and multiplying by 100.

6.) Calculate mg of phosphorus per 100 calories by dividing phosphorus by total calories and multiplying by 100,000. (The extra 1000 is to change the units of phosphorus from grams to milligrams.)

More from Janet:

Q. Can I get the carbohydrate content from the numbers on the label?
A. Not in the United States of America. First of all, it's not listed on the label. Second, you can't calculate it from the label because manufacturers aren't required to put average values of protein, fat, etc. on the label. They are only required to put "guaranteed" minimum and maximum values on the label. Sometimes these values are close to what's actually in the food, and sometimes they are quite different. But in any event they are, by design, inaccurate.

If you live in a country which has consumer-friendly laws on what should be on pet food labels, carbohydrate content may be listed, or you may be able to calculate it by adding the values of protein, fat, water, fiber, and ash, and subtracting that sum from 100% to get "as fed" carbohydrate. But in the USA, you're likely to get grossly inaccurate values following this method.


Q. Why aren't the numbers on your table the same as what's on the label?
A. Because I chose to express the numbers on a per-calorie basis, see above, which I believe makes it easier to compare foods to each other. The values on the label are "wet weight" values -- they express the amount of each nutrient per 100 grams of food.

The example they showed, which says 11% carbs, is not the same as whatever number Janet comes up with because she's talking percentage of calories. You could take any variety off J&B's list and come up with a different number using their formula. But it's the same food. Perhaps both numbers are "real", but it doesn't matter to "us" because when we tell somebody "less than 7% carbs" we mean less than 7% of the calories contained in the food are from carbs. When they say 11%, they aren't saying 11% of the calories.... I think the fundamental difference is that they don't weight their numbers on the fact that carb's and protein are 3.5 kcal/gram and fat is 8.5 kcal/gram?

Does that help any?
Carl
 
Wow! You amaze me. I knew i could count of you to explain it more clearly. I know it didn't make much sense to me and was confusing me even more. You have made it clearer. I will stick to binkys link of food.

What again is the amount of calories per pound should I feed my kitty. Copper is at 17lbs with hardley any muscle. He seems very skinny to me. But i'm used to him being 21lbs. He was solid then. THe vet said he probably needs to get to 15lbs, but needs to gain his muscles back first. Protein build's the muscle right? Oh, this is all so hard to figure out. I just wish someone could come and say this is what you need to feed him....... What do you think of raw diet? There is so many formlula's out there and not sure which one would be right to use. Copper used to be a mighty hunter and eat, moles and birds daily. I guess he was starving from the FD and I didn't know it. At least he was getting his protein then. I just thought he liked to hunt. Now he just looks at them and can't even run after them anymore. I liked that he would catch the occasional mouse in our basement. Now nothing. So i'm sure our mice population is getting bigger down there now that there is no predator around. My other cat is worthless. He just catches things and then releases them alive in our house. He doesn't even hurt them. I guess he is bringing us gifts. The worse one he brought in a huge frog from our pond and released it in our house and it crawled under the couch and i didnt know or see it. After a couple of days, it just stunk. Yuck!

Lori
 
Lori,
I have no experience with the raw diet but one of the newest people(heather?) mentioned a raw recipe...
the calorie number I use is 20 per pound of ideal body weight. That is for a "normal" kitty so a diabetic may need a few more. So 300-340 should be about right for Copper.
Carl
 
How did I miss the liver/Vitamin A thing? Two of the flavors of FF she likes most are Chicken & Liver or Beef & Liver.
Do I need to change this?
 
arozeboom said:
How did I miss the liver/Vitamin A thing? Two of the flavors of FF she likes most are Chicken & Liver or Beef & Liver.
Do I need to change this?

Just don't feed it all the time. Limit to 1-2/week.
 
Found for my cats that the FF Chunky chicken makes them have diarrhea. Looked at incredients and it has wheat gluten. So stay away from this now.

So seems like we have to watch giving too much liver and fish. Limit to only 2x/week? Does this sound right?

Lori
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top