max&emmasmommie
Member Since 2012
In Lantus Tight Regulation: http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=76617&p=828574#p828574
. That was a major question for me, and I've seen others ask it repeatedly. How do you know whether you are overdosing or you need to raise the dose? Is there any way to guesstimate?. . . swings from 100s to 300s repeated[ly] . . . indicate it is probably too much insulin
Additionally, I read that it may be that high spikes are more damaging to the organs that a high BG that is more consistently high. I have no way to evaluate that statement, but it made me rather upset, and then, when I saw Max bounce over and over, I got more and more upset.. . . the really negative effect of creating a stage for chronic rebound is that those hormones cause insulin resistance while they are circulating. That is one of the reasons, maybe the main one, for the length of time needed to "clear a bounce".
You don't really want to look at your spreadsheet one cycle at a time. Look at a 3-4 day period. What was the lowest number during that period? In general, that is the number you want to base your decisions on . . . If you are getting nadirs in a good green range and you're happy with them, then wait. If you are getting nadirs in green and you wait a while and the bouncing isn't getting better, then you can consider increasing the dose and feeding the curve to keep the nadirs from getting too low.
sheila's understanding of "chasing the numbers" is the same as mine. :mrgreen:
your interpretation of "chasing the numbers" is similar, but not quite the same as what was commonly done back when alex was on insulin the first time. the only exception was we would go ahead and feed while stalling (gasp!) and wait for a "shoot-able" number... usually closer to 180 or 200. see her 2006 (pre-TR) tab on her ss. in some cases, we ended up with shot times that would travel 'round the clock. did it work with newly diagnosed kitties? yep. in many cases it did. although, i have to say... it wasn't until i started lowering my no shoot number that i began to see much better results. it's when i began to see the merit in the TR protocol . . ..
There is a pretty definitive answer to how to dose to prevent bounces. You can simply reduce the dose enough that the cat doesn’t go low enough to bounce! There are down sides, though. The main down side is that usually that means they will stay flat in yellow or pink. Notice that most cats who either aren’t getting insulin, or aren’t yet up to their good dose, don’t bounce. ;-) They are high and flat because they are hanging out in numbers to which they have become accustomed. Your cat was probably diabetic for a while before you noticed, and his/her body probably became used to hanging out in yellow and pink before you started insulin. However, renal threshold in most cats is thought to be in the 230 range. The more time spent above that, the more potential for organ damage to occur over time.
To be clear, those who suggest lowering the dose to prevent bouncing are usually not suggesting that you leave them in high numbers forever. The idea is that once the cat flattens out and gets used to yellow, you may eventually be able to increase the dose to bring them into flat blue. Some cats will even go OTJ that way. On the other hand, some cats will need increasing amounts of insulin just to maintain the same numbers, if glucose toxicity takes hold.
Those of us following the Tight Regulation protocol tend to think “but I don’t WANT my cat to get used to yellow. I want her to get used to healthier blue or green!” The goal of Tight Regulation is to get the cat into a “healing” range as quickly as is safely possible. That means pushing their numbers down to below renal threshold, and then into “normal” numbers (under about 120). Doing that means bouncing is part of the process. It’s a GOOD thing if it means you are facilitating healing! If you look at the spreadsheets of cats that went OTJ, you’ll notice that in almost every case, once they got to a point where they were spending almost 100% of their time under 120, they started healing (and earning dose reductions) very quickly. They all spent some time bouncing, whether it was 2 days or 2 years. I know it's frustrating when it seems like the bounces never stop. Lucy bounced until right before she went OTJ. It was fine, though, because I understood why it was happening and that it was normal. Back in the day, we called it "Liver Training School" and we would joke about when our cat would finally graduate, or whether they would have to repeat a grade in Liver Training School.
It is important to point out that if we follow the protocol carefully, we are not pushing the cat into unsafe territory. That includes adhering to the prerequisites mentioned in the protocol sticky, and it means increasing the doses methodically while relying on good data, feeding an appropriate diet, and taking reductions when they are called for. Some people will choose to push the envelope by either being more aggressive than protocol, or by making decisions without enough data. Those are individual decisions and should only be made by experienced caregivers who are fully aware of the pros and cons of their approach. There are plenty of good reasons why folks will choose to stray from the protocol once they know their cat, I did with both of my cats, but those need to be informed decisions based on data.
There are pros and cons to any approach, and each caregiver needs to decide what his/her goals are. Then evaluate those goals against your specific situation, your cat’s needs, your own scheduling limitations, your ability and willingness to monitor, etc. Then communicate your goals so those who are helping you will understand what you are trying to accomplish.
My first vet said that while avoiding kidney damage was important in people, it didn’t matter for cats because they don’t live long enough for that damage to become significant, and besides, old cats have kidney issues anyway. Maybe she really believed that, and maybe it’s even true, but to me that wasn’t what I wanted to aim for! And she is no longer my vet.
There is a pretty definitive answer to how to dose to prevent bounces. You can simply reduce the dose enough that the cat doesn’t go low enough to bounce! There are down sides, though. The main down side is that usually that means they will stay flat in yellow or pink.
I do think his bounces are beginning to get smaller and smaller
max&emmasmommie wrote:If you drop the dose down, you have to check religiously for ketones, right?
Right. So the question becomes, "is it more important to me to prevent bouncing, or to help my cat get healthier?"
My opinions, based on my 5 years here and studying hundreds of spreadsheets, follow. Your opinions might be different.
Lowering dose to prevent bouncing:
Pros - if you come in with a cat that has been diabetic for just a few weeks and is already on a high dose, and the dose was reached by increasing in 1 unit increments based on vet curves while the cat was eating dry food, then reducing the dose and starting over often makes sense.
Cons - in any other case, cat will probably stay in higher/possibly organ-damaging numbers longer. Cat may be prone to ketones. Cat may be more prone to urinary infections due to glucose in urine. Cat may develop glucose toxicity, resulting in the need for an even higher dose of insulin to maintain the same result. Takes more time to get to a good dose, maybe reducing the chance of remission. Usually the cat will end up needing dose increases anyway, usually up to at least the dose they were at before, if not higher.
Maintaining or increasing the dose according to protocol, ignoring the bounces:
Pros - cat will probably reach a good working dose sooner. Less frustration for caregiver because they know they are approaching dosing in a logical manner that works for a large majority of cats. Cat will probably reach healing numbers sooner, resulting in an increased chance of remission. If cat is one that does not respond well to the standard protocol, then in the process caregiver will have gathered valuable data that will help in determining an approach that will work. (note - I'm not referring to cats that have not responded after a month or two. Give it plenty of time before deciding your cat is different! We do see some cats that go OTJ in 1-2 months, but even with tight regulation that is the exception rather than the rule).
Cons - cat will most likely hit a breakthrough, requiring fast dose reductions. This is exhausting! But as one of our wise ones used to say, the path to OTJ is made up of a series of dose reductions. Eventually one of the reductions might be the reduction to a dose of 0.00 units.
If somebody asks me "should I lower the dose?" I will consider every bit of information I have access to (spreadsheet, profile, diet, history). Almost every single time, my answer will be "no, I do not think that is a good idea, but it is your decision." Almost every single time, the cat ends up going back up in dose to where they used to be or higher. The exception is if a cat is over dose to begin with, like in the example of a new diabetic on a high dose. In most other cases, even cases like yours in which Max probably has been over dose, we usually see that decreasing does not work because glucose toxicity has had a chance to set in. The cat usually still has to go up in dose until they hit a breakthrough, THEN go down the dosing scale as reductions are earned.
Libby and Lucy
Lucy: dx 9/27/07 with DKA, hepatic lipidosis, and renal failure
OTJ on 2/22/09 (17 months on insulin!)