Bobbie And Bubba
Member Since 2015
One of my cats started peeing on the basement floor, where they are two litter boxes. Not sure who yet....I was reading with issues with diabetic cats starting to pee outside the box. Why is that? Any cures?
Gosh, I hope not! There was another incident in the basement about 1 week ago. Civvie cat, Forrest has a history of peeing outside the box when he is mad about something, usually right it front of me. What other symptoms would a UTI have?Hi Bobbie,
Wondered r where you went... Snuck a look at the spreadsheet. Bubba is looking good and you are getting good at figuring out doses. Nice job stalling this am!
First, I'd try to find out which cat. It could be a UTI - urinary tract infection.
Thanks, Sue. So far, the only symptom is the peeing on the basement floor, it was a lot of urine, not a small amount. I'll keep an eye on it.Here's what Dr. Lisa says about them:
http://www.catinfo.org/?link=urinarytracthealth
It's not the only option, just something to consider
Thanks, I have some and used it when the civvie cat was peeing in the house. I'll start back with it.There is a special litter called Cat Attract, I think you can get it at Petco or petsmart.
What a great list of things to do, thanks so much. The enzymatic cleaner is being used for clean up and I sprayed the feliway around the two area where the accidents occurred. The only problem is I am not sure who is doing it. So I don't know which feline to take to the vet. I hope it stops but am thankful it is in the basement and not on my hard wood floors.For inappropriate elimination, always go to the vet and rule out any medical problems.
Here is a list I compiled previously. Some of the items may not apply or the gender may need to be switched.
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You might try an integrated approach using multiple options from the list below on a consistent basis:
* start with crating, using a medium large crate (30" long is big enough for cat and a litter box) until progress. She probably won't go where she'd have to lie in it ... but if she does, something is wrong and it may be medical.
* tarps and newspapers may be easier on clean up if you don't crate her
* feeding on a schedule and then placing her in the litterbox (maybe in a crate) within 15-20 minutes after eating, until she goes, then praising and letting her out.
* Feliway/Comfort Zone - friendly facial pheromones which reduce stress and may reduce marking behavior. Cheapest prices are usually on the net (ex http://www.LambertVetSupply.com ) I've used it and it helps.
* Cat Attract litter - supposed to help attract cat to litter box
* rule out arthritis or constipation - pain causes box avoidance
* watch if the other cats ever attack her in the box and if so, you may need to keep her separated from them. I've got one the others attack, completely unprovoked.
* litter box should be 1.5 times length of cat, litter cleaned frequently, but avoid really strong smelling cleaners as cats may avoid them due to the scent.
* you've got to get residual odors out from areas which were 'nailed'. If you don't get those spots thoroughly cleaned, any residual odor may trigger using the spot again. Enzyme based products such as Nature's Miracle, are the most likely to have success. Carpet may need to be rolled back and treated on the back side, plus treating the pad separately (or replacing the pad). It can require repeated applications.
* regular play sessions of about 15 minutes to reduce stress and promote bond with you
* reward desirable behaviors - if you see her use the box, praise and treat her
* put unpleasant textures in places she has peed to encourage avoidance
* read some of this author's books: http://www.catbehaviorassociates.com/ she's pretty good - ex "Starting from Scratch"
Ok, will do.Check each for dehydration, and monitor appetite and thirst. See my signature link Secondary Monitoring Tools for some instructions.
Thanks Critter Mom, I was just reading about B12 in my holistic pet book about being important for diabetic animals.If you're getting tests done, ask your vet to check B12 and potassium levels.
Will do, so far, he has no hindquarter weakness or neuropathy that I can tell. His food is served on a table so the droolers don't get into it, and that boy can leap tall buildings to get to that food,LOL. But I will check into the B12 as a supplement for him.I've seen kitties here with peeing issues that may have been due to hindquarter weakness. Both potassium and B12 deficiencies can cause such weakness. Just 2 things to check.![]()
Good to hear he's so sprightly.![]()

Thanks Petey's mom. It has only happened twice in a two week period and all the other times he is going in the box. Ours is rather high; it's actually a large sweater storage bin, because he is such a big cat, 25 lbs, his fatter self and now a trim 18 lbs. I'm thinking that since it has only happened twice, that it was more of a "urgency" to pee quickly. I will keep an eye on it for sure. Thanks for your imput. This forum is great; people exchanging information and ideas. And the love here is incredible!My Petey has neuropathy and when it started, he was peeing outside the box and I couldn't figure out why. He looked like he was walking just fine and he could still jump up on things, so hind leg weakness never occurred to me. But,after watching him for a while and following him to the litter box a few times, it finally clicked - he just couldn't (or it hurt too much to) pick his legs up far enough off the floor to get over the rim of the box. Then it just progressed from that point. It may not be what your sugar-kitty's problem is at all. I just thought I'd put my 2 cents in. Either way I sure hope you get that sweet kitty sorted and using the box again.![]()