Here is a video that shows someone testing their cat:
Of course, this kitty is much more cooperative than my kitty. So here are a few things to try if you have a wiggly one:
It can be really helpful to establish a routine with testing. Pick one spot that you want your "testing spot" to be (I like the kitchen counter because it's got good light and it's at a good height....it also already blocked 2 escape routes due to the wall and the backsplash) It can be anywhere though...a rug on the floor, a table, a particular spot on the couch...wherever is good for you.
Take him there as many times a day as you can and just give his ears a quick rub and then he gets a yummy (low carb) treat. Most cats aren't objecting so much with the poking..it's the fooling with their ears they don't like or being made to stay in one place, but once they're desensitized to it and learn to associate a certain place with the treats, they usually start to come when they're called! Or even when they hear us opening the test kit!You also have to remember...you're not poking him to hurt him...you're testing him to keep him safe and understand what's going on inside his body. There's just nothing better than truly understanding what's going on inside your kitty's body and with this disease, the more knowledge you have, the more power you have against it. The edges of the ears have very few pain receptors, so it really doesn't hurt them. Also, if you're nervous and tense, it's going to make your kitty nervous and tense too.
As silly as it might seem, try singing! It forces you to use a different part of your brain!
It's also important to make sure his ear is warm. A small sock filled with a little rice and microwaved or a small pill bottle filled with warm water (check temp against your wrist like you would a baby bottle) works well.
When you're first starting, it's also important to use a lower gauge lancet, like
25-28 gauge. Most of the "lancet devices" come with 33 gauge lancets and they are just too tiny to start with. The bigger lancets (that are lower numbers) make a bigger "hole". As you poke more and more, the ears will grow new capillaries and will be easier and easier to get blood from...we call it "learning to bleed"
Finding the right "treat" will be a great help too! Freeze dried chicken, bonito flakes, little pieces of baked chicken...whatever low carb treat you can find that he really enjoys will help him to associate the testing with the treat!
Finally, patience and practice. The more you do it, and the more consistently, the easier it becomes. When you're first starting, there will be failed attempts. It's okay. Try three times, then take a break. Walk away. Breathe. Then try again. And remember that
kitty gets a treat if there is a poke, even if it doesn't result in a test. It's important to keep up that postiive association.
A few other tricks: some folks find it easier to wrap their cat in a towel or blanket like a kitty burrito. If your cat isn't food motivated, try brushing or head/chin scratches -- whatever makes him purr and happy and want to stick around. A folded towel gently around their neck like a neck brace -- I emphasize gently here! -- can help hold them still during testing.
Make sure the test strip is inserted part way into the meter while you warm the ear. Then when you're ready to poke, first push the strip all the way in, then poke and "milk" the spot to get the blood to come out, then you can just grab the meter and suck up the blood.
If you're not getting enough blood, soemtimes a double poke in the same spot helps.
Hope something in here helps. There is a learning curve on this. It will get easier, I promise. I can literally do it without fully waking up now, and my cat was semi-feral when we started this! Where there's a will there's a way!
