Advice on performing the ear sticks?

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Harper'sHuman

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Would a few of you mind sharing how you perform the ear sticks to check bgl levels? My vet told me to go from the inside, down near the "ruffly" area (horribly inaccurate anatomical description, I know!). The problem is, I can't get much blood and having to "milk" for a sample makes my kitty crazy (he doesn't mind the sticks, but i know all the pinching must hurt). Sometimes it takes two or three attempts before I can get enough blood to test, because his ears are tough. Tonight i read in the beginner's information about sampling from the blood vessel around the edge of the ear. I was just wondering if anyone could share what works best for them. As always, many thanks!
 
Mooch has dark grey ears and long fur. I use an old sock filled with rice and warmed up in the microwave to warm his ear before the test which really helps to get a decent drop of blood without having to milk his ear. The other thing I used to start with is a small flashlight shone throuigh his ear to highlight where the blood vessels were which really helped my aim. I also find it easier to do the test on the back of the ear as there is less fur to cause the blood to spread out and its easier to sit him on my lap and hold him during the testing. Hope this helps and it does et easier as you get more practice.
 
Yes, making sure the ear is warm is key. i just rub her ears with my fingers, because she's used to it, i did that even before she was diabetic. I'm lucky i have a very patient kitty who doesn't care what you do to her as long as she's being touched :-D . I use a tissue folded, and when it touches her ear, her ear just kinda folds over the tissue and that makes it a perfect position for me to take the pen and push it to ear and push the button. In the beginning i used to be really slow, and i think that frusterated her, but now i can do it so fast and get a reading instantly. My hubby just uses the lancet and free hands it, which works for some people, but i find the pen easier. I do find her ears bleed better now, maybe they are used to it?? ... but the odd time if the ear isn't warm enough, and i prick it, i will see nothing, but if i just apply slight pressure near the prick, the blood comes. sometimes you have to give it a second. Trust me it does get easier and you will be a pro. I also try not to aim for that main vein around the edge of the ear, but i have pricked it a few times, and it bleeds alot, just get your read from it, don't panic, and don't forget to take a tissue and apply slight pressure for at least 30 seconds after.
 
I've always heard to NOT prick the vein directly and to aim for the area in between the vein and outer rim of the ear. I would think that repeatedly hitting that tiny vein could cause it to collapse (or at least get bruising or "track marks"), just like any other vein. I agree completely with everyone else, warming the ear with a rice sock for a few seconds beforehand helps SOOO much!!
 
The size of lancet can make a positive difference. The 30-31 gauge is made for humans. Cats sometimes need the larger gauge (25-28) in the beginning. Also, poke with confidence! You can double poke - a quick second poke in the same spot. Having something to poke against is also helpful - a folded tissue, the rice sack. We used a small makeup sponge.

Once you get it, it seems so easy, but it is hard at first.
 
Sue and Oliver (GA) said:
The size of lancet can make a positive difference. The 30-31 gauge is made for humans. Cats sometimes need the larger gauge (25-28) in the beginning. Also, poke with confidence! You can double poke - a quick second poke in the same spot. Having something to poke against is also helpful - a folded tissue, the rice sack. We used a small makeup sponge.

Once you get it, it seems so easy, but it is hard at first.
Click to expand...

Just want to second this statement. In my opinion, the biggest problem people have when starting out is trying to use too small lancets. Smaller lancets don't mean less pain for the cat--cats have very few nerve endings in their ears so the pokes don't hurt them regardless of lancet size. It's being startled and restrained that they don't like, so the quicker you can poke and get the test done, the more the cat will tolerate it.

And remember a low carb treat after every test! Positive reinforcement not only gets the cat to tolerate the testing--in many cases the cat starts expecting or even wanting the tests.
 
Thanks so much, everyone! I NEVER would have thought of the rice sock or folding the ear back over a tissue. I'll try the makeup sponge, too. I can't tell you all helpful it is to have advice from "guardians" of diabetic cats about how to get through the day-to-day issues of home treatment. My vet means well, but this is much more helpful.
 
Here is my technique:

warm ear with fingers (cat purrs and sometimes drools)
take strip out of container and close lid, place strip on lid
warm ear some more, pick up the lancet (I freehand it- used to use a cotton ball under the ear but not any more, cat sits down)
poke ear next to edge and rub some more to get the droplet forming (cat stands back up and purrs some more)
scrape blood droplet onto one fingernail and lightly pinch the ear for 3 seconds to stop bleeding (cat heads to her food)
place strip into meter and wait for cue to sip blood
write down # and wipe of any remaining blood from nail

My cat Sneakers isn't much into treats- she changes her mind too frequently on whether or not they taste good, so we usually don't treat unless I have chicken cooked.

The more you poke the more capillaries fill into that section of the ear and will make it easier to draw blood. A smaller gauge needle is better to start off with and then move to the larger gauges (but smaller needle) as time goes on and the blood is easier to retrieve.
 
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