3.27 Bella amps 50,+1 69,+2 75,+9:30 257, pmps 289, +2 198,+3 169,+6 115

If you have time to test again before you go to work, I'd get another test in. The depot can still affect this cycle. If not, I'd leave some extra food out if you can.
 
carfurby said:
If you have time to test again before you go to work, I'd get another test in. The depot can still affect this cycle. If not, I'd leave some extra food out if you can.
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I will test right before I leave, should I go ahead and give him some MC? He is not liking any of this low phosphorus food! I’ve opened up 4 cans
Andy likes it
 
Better a day too high than a moment too low. :bighug:

Just saw your PM. I had to get off last night and run to Lowes. We are having appliance issues :rolleyes:. On Sunday our dishwasher shot "flames" (per DH) out of the control panel area. We went and got a dishwasher and hubby was hooking it up last night and needed an adapter to convert the waterline to the new connection. The old dishwasher was ~10 yo but wasn't expecting that $$:banghead: which I know you an relate too:cool:.

I will send you a text so you have my # but I don't get good reception at work and have an appointment after work so won't be home until late tonight.

I used the ME (metabolized energy) and as-fed nutritional values. I looked at dry matter as well and if phos was high there I tried to avoid it.

I also would compare the values given (if given) by manufacturer against Dr. Lisa's list and the list over at Helen's (Tanya's) site. If they were similar/close between all I felt if was a good choice.

It is difficult because none of the data is given the same way. On Dr Lisa's list use less than 200 (+/-) and on Tanya's site use less than 1.0 (+/-) for phos.

Tanya's site is the bible for ckd. You will probably want to start adding B12 and B-Complex into the food. It is a ton of info and a lot to absorb so tag me any time because I practically have that site memotized:facepalm:.

IMO I would start/switch Bella to low phos food now. High phos levels will cause nausea and general icky feeling. If you can get ahead of it the better off he will do.
 
LizzieInTexas said:
You may need to transition using food you know he likes and will eat and adding a small amount of the new food using less of the high phos food and more low phos over a week or two until he is eating the new food.
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Yeah cause he doesn’t like this low phosphorus, do I use pill b12 and which kind (brand)
 
The best food for Bella is the one he will eat.
When our civvie Allen was dx CKD and had the tumour as well we were advised to feed low carb low p food. There are very few choices here in Canada and he didn't like them. He also didn't like the low p food we purchased from the vet. So I had to stick to low carb and then added p-binder. I'm sure you have more food choices than I did so I hope you can find some that Bella likes.
 
That is a wake up number for sure. Keep us posted on the food search. I just order weruva chicken frick a zee from chewy. Can't find individual cans to try first. There are only a handful of lc low phos out there, of course there is an option of making food. But foodfurlife does not go over in this house.
 
Wow! What a start for Bella! Hope you can find some low P he likes. Have you tried Tiki cat? I’m pretty sure the chicken flavor at least is low P. At times Scooter has liked it a lot.
 
@Marje and Gracie

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Thank you. It’s going to take me a little time today to convert numbers. I don’t see anything glaringly of concern. The urine specific gravity is lower than it should be and BUN is higher and could indicate very early CKD. Let me look closely and I’ll respond. Take a deep breath and try not to worry.
 
Marje and Gracie said:
Thank you. It’s going to take me a little time today to convert numbers. I don’t see anything glaringly of concern. The urine specific gravity is lower than it should be and BUN is higher and could indicate very early CKD. Let me look closely and I’ll respond. Take a deep breath and try not to worry.
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Thank u so so so much for taking the time to look at these

Let me add that that day I carbed him up so that he could at least be considered for trial
 
It was suggested to me on the forum to try some Bonino Flakes to get Merlin to eat food he turns his nose up at. It works! I mix some in with the food and then sprinkle some on top and feed it to him. He smells the fish and starts licking off the flakes and then digs into the food to get more of them. I only use it when I have situations like yours where he must eat, but won't. If I use ithem for more than 2 days he gets desensitized and ignores the flakes. But after a few days without, he's back into them if I need them. Buy the regular flakes and not the large ones. The smaller flakes mix better. I bought them from Chewy as Petco and Pestmart don't carry them. They are all smell and flavor, and not really adding any nutrition, calories, or anything else. Keep an eye on the other cats, if you have any. They will smell the flakes and go nuts too. Merlin is the Alpha cat so a good hiss from him is enough to deter poachers.
 
Steve & Merlin said:
It was suggested to me on the forum to try some Bonino Flakes to get Merlin to eat food he turns his nose up at. It works! I mix some in with the food and then sprinkle some on top and feed it to him. He smells the fish and starts licking off the flakes and then digs into the food to get more of them. I only use it when I have situations like yours where he must eat, but won't. If I use ithem for more than 2 days he gets desensitized and ignores the flakes. But after a few days without, he's back into them if I need them. Buy the regular flakes and not the large ones. The smaller flakes mix better. I bought them from Chewy as Petco and Pestmart don't carry them. They are all smell and flavor, and not really adding any nutrition, calories, or anything else. Keep an eye on the other cats, if you have any. They will smell the flakes and go nuts too. Merlin is the Alpha cat so a good hiss from him is enough to deter poachers.
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Thank u for that info and yes I have 2 more kittys
 
I wouldn’t add phosphorus binder until after a discussion with the vet. My AlOH came from Thriving Pets, originally. Actually, some one else bought it, sent it to me when no longer needed, and I passed it on again, a little goes a long way!

I find it easier to read the labs on the Labs tab if the SS, so you can see trends.

And Bella, about that AMBG.... :eek: Momma would prefer coffee to wake her up.
 
Wendy&Neko said:
I wouldn’t add phosphorus binder until after a discussion with the vet. My AlOH came from Thriving Pets, originally. Actually, some one else bought it, sent it to me when no longer needed, and I passed it on again, a little goes a long way!

I find it easier to read the labs on the Labs tab if the SS, so you can see trends.

And Bella, about that AMBG.... :eek: Momma would prefer coffee to wake her up.
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Yes I tt vet office this am they r gonna ask her
I will get the labs on ss later, I'm at work
 
Wendy&Neko said:
I wouldn’t add phosphorus binder until after a discussion with the vet. My AlOH came from Thriving Pets, originally. Actually, some one else bought it, sent it to me when no longer needed, and I passed it on again, a little goes a long way!

I find it easier to read the labs on the Labs tab if the SS, so you can see trends.

And Bella, about that AMBG.... :eek: Momma would prefer coffee to wake her up.
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I 100% agree on the binder. His P level is GREAT right now. See if you can find some lower P LC foods but don’t add any binder.
 
Bellasmom said:
So he doesnt have ckd?? Or yes
Thanks again!! I truly appreciate it
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The most definitive way to diagnose CKD these days is with an SDMA test but your lab doesn’t have that value so we go back to the “old way”.

First we look at the urine specific gravity. Before development of the SDMA, the USG was used as a potential “early indicator” of CKD.

USG “should” be above 1.040 and it’s 1.020 so that tells us that his urine, at the time this test was done, was more dilute as we would expect a CKD cat to have. The reason CKD cats have dilute urine is because they have to drink a lot more to keep hydrated and the more they drink, the more dilute the urine becomes. However, keep in mind that cats, like people, will have a changing USG during the day. The question becomes, “is he able to concentrate his urine?”. There are other things, like diabetes and hyperthyroidism to name two, that can cause a cat to drink more water and, thereby, lower its USG. Also, if we have a cat that has received subq or IV fluids within 24 hours, the USG will be lower. The best way to find out if he is able to concentrate his urine is to get the very first urine sample of the day and ask the vet to check the USG. In the US, most vets have hand held refractometers (in fact, I have one myself and they are easy to use). Before I bought mine, my vet charged $10 to just check the USG. The other option is to wait a bit, maybe have all his labs rechecked in three months, and then be sure and take in the first urine sample of the day.

In looking at his other values (discussed below), my speculation is that he is in the early stages (Stage 2) of CKD.

His creatinine has increased from 1.1 in 7/2017 to 2.2 (these are US numbers) now. His BUN is high which, by itself, wouldn’t worry me as it can be elevated due to dehydration at that time or if the cat eats a raw diet.

Putting together the USG, elevated creatinine and BUN, I’d say that yes, he likely is in Stage 2 CKD.

However, the other parameters which we watch closely with CKD cats (phosphorus, calcium, potassium, hematocrit) are all excellent. Catching it this early gives you time to watch it closely and start making adjustments to a lower P diet (under 200 mgP/100 kcal or less than 1.00% on dry matter basis) while he’s eating well. It’s too soon for binders or subq fluids. He also doesn’t need B vitamins yet to minimize anemia, common in CKD cats, as his hematocrit is still that of a non-CKD cat.
 
Marje and Gracie said:
The most definitive way to diagnose CKD these days is with an SDMA test but your lab doesn’t have that value so we go back to the “old way”.

First we look at the urine specific gravity. Before development of the SDMA, the USG was used as a potential “early indicator” of CKD.

USG “should” be above 1.040 and it’s 1.020 so that tells us that his urine, at the time this test was done, was more dilute as we would expect a CKD cat to have. The reason CKD cats have dilute urine is because they have to drink a lot more to keep hydrated and the more they drink, the more dilute the urine becomes. However, keep in mind that cats, like people, will have a changing USG during the day. The question becomes, “is he able to concentrate his urine?”. There are other things, like diabetes and hyperthyroidism to name two, that can cause a cat to drink more water and, thereby, lower its USG. Also, if we have a cat that has received subq or IV fluids within 24 hours, the USG will be lower. The best way to find out if he is able to concentrate his urine is to get the very first urine sample of the day and ask the vet to check the USG. In the US, most vets have hand held refractometers (in fact, I have one myself and they are easy to use). Before I bought mine, my vet charged $10 to just check the USG. The other option is to wait a bit, maybe have all his labs rechecked in three months, and then be sure and take in the first urine sample of the day.

In looking at his other values (discussed below), my speculation is that he is in the early stages (Stage 2) of CKD.

His creatinine has increased from 1.1 in 7/2017 to 2.2 (these are US numbers) now. His BUN is high which, by itself, wouldn’t worry me as it can be elevated due to dehydration at that time or if the cat eats a raw diet.

Putting together the USG, elevated creatinine and BUN, I’d say that yes, he likely is in Stage 2 CKD.

However, the other parameters which we watch closely with CKD cats (phosphorus, calcium, potassium, hematocrit) are all excellent. Catching it this early gives you time to watch it closely and start making adjustments to a lower P diet (under 200 mgP/100 kcal or less than 1.00% on dry matter basis) while he’s eating well. It’s too soon for binders or subq fluids. He also doesn’t need B vitamins yet to minimize anemia, common in CKD cats, as his hematocrit is still that of a non-CKD cat.
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So with that said, just change his diet, I just want to be clear, I dont want this getting worse, where can I get 1 of those machines to test
 
Bellasmom said:
So with that said, just change his diet, I just want to be clear, I dont want this getting worse, where can I get 1 of those machines to test
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I got mine at Amazon.

Yes, right now, just focusing on keeping his P level as close to where it is as you can. It’s been shown that controlling the P is one of the predictors of longevity.
 
Marje and Gracie said:
I got mine at Amazon.

Yes, right now, just focusing on keeping his P level as close to where it is as you can. It’s been shown that controlling the P is one of the predictors of longevity.
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Thank you for all your help, I did get him to eat some of the weruva fowl ball, he seemed to really like that, I added lots of water, almost a soup and he at about 90%
 
Hi, Willow was also just diagnosed with early (stage 2) ckd and food is a real issue in Canada, especially because she really prefers the pates. I just found the Whole Earth Food grain free Duck pate she really seems to love(carb 4, phos 130) If Bella likes pates, the new line of weruva pates (canned and pouches) which I can't get in Canada yet, are largely awesome for low carb and phos; also they're a bit higher in calories than other weruva products, which means she doesn't have to eat as much, which makes it more affordable. Weruva have all the nutrition info on their site as well.
Good luck!
 
nslade001 said:
Hi, Willow was also just diagnosed with early (stage 2) ckd and food is a real issue in Canada, especially because she really prefers the pates. I just found the Whole Earth Food grain free Duck pate she really seems to love(carb 4, phos 130) If Bella likes pates, the new line of weruva pates (canned and pouches) which I can't get in Canada yet, are largely awesome for low carb and phos; also they're a bit higher in calories than other weruva products, which means she doesn't have to eat as much, which makes it more affordable. Weruva have all the nutrition info on their site as well.
Good luck!
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Thanks so much and I’m so sorry your going through this too
 
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