Thank you! But nervous wreck over here. But I have faith in the people helping us here.A new lowest PS, congrats! It’ll get more comfortable with time, I promise.
Good luck with the increase! Hoping for some safe surfs![]()
It is scary as the numbers get a bit lower than you are used to! We all understand.A little scary. Just under 300, but going up to 3u as said here yesterday. I was very nervous after several days of high bounce. But I trust the people here know a LOT more than I.
So here we go!
I'm try the +1.5 tonight.
I know this is going to sound goofy, but I haven't switched over just to Relion for 2 reasons. 1- it requires 0.5 for the blood drop and if not often gives me error readings. And 2- His glucose numbers look better than they actually are.:/ And I don't like that. The fact that they're so different still (341vs253 just now), proves that point to me. I realize that this all started by using human meters for pets, but that's because it's all that was available. Science shows that glucose is measured differently on humans vs cats. I've seen it before, but just looking it up now, it says this. So aren't I getting an actual accurate idea of his true readings using my pet meter? When I go back to the doctor eventually, and she takes a test and it shows it's not 100 like my human meter at home is showing me, but a good 170-200? That's going to be a problem, no?Why not switch to the Relion completely? Nico's numbers will already look better and it's what most use anyway.
Regardless, looking better already, you're doing great!
Thanks! It's why I haven't bothered switching. But it would be good to know what the equivalent would be in numbers when he's doing better. Like say the 300's. If my pet meter says that it's much better than the human. It's confusing indeed.Jumping in to say we do have members that use pet calibrate meters (@Laurie&Petey and others) and an adjustment is made to the lowest number in the SS (BG < 68 instead of 50). Maybe Laurie can weigh in on the pros and cons. I imagine it’d be easier to get (more aligned) advice with the human meter, but the low adjustment helps avoid major hypos). I made the switch from pet to human and I’ve also used a Libre here or there… all 3 give different numbers. What I’ve found now that we’re almost a year into the human meter is that it gets very hard to make a full switch after you’ve grown familiar with a certain set of numbers… it also gets difficult to switch from human to pet because it feels like a massive step backwards when the numbers increase (even though technically the same). Regardless, it’s important to use what you’re comfortable with and can manage.
Thanks for the tag @Briana + Binx1- it requires 0.5 for the blood drop and if not often gives me error readings. And 2- His glucose numbers look better than they actually are.:/ And I don't like that
I was figuring accuracy was more important to me at this stage really. Not being a pro, I was very concerned and I'd already had the meter for another. She went into quick remission so I only use it for spot checking now.Thanks for the tag @Briana + Binx
The two reasons you listed are why I still use the AT3 too. It's also an easier conversation with my vet who is also using and comparing with a pet meter. And I guess I'm just not very frugal if I'm willing to pay for those strips!
That being said, we are the rare few. And I never drive myself crazy trying to use both. Once in awhile when he is pretty low, I do test on my Relion out of curiosity and that number is verrry low in those cases.
I think it really comes down to how much money would you like to save!![]()
The pet meter spreadsheet will turn lime (too low) for 67 or less, and my understanding is 70 to 130 is ideal and of course we want them in the greens as much as possible which will be 99 - 68.I was figuring accuracy was more important to me at this stage really. Not being a pro, I was very concerned and I'd already had the meter for another. She went into quick remission so I only use it for spot checking now.
But how do you know what the good, not so good, bad, and REALLY bad numbers are?
I think I read before 70 is hypo, and under 120 is good? But not positive. Aside from that I have no clue.
My vet originally insisted it HAD to be a pet meter the first time I bought it. So I never looked at human ones.
I am so going to find today right now. I've actually taken a break and for the last 2 whole days, haven't read anything for either Nico or my newly diagnosed cancer kitty. It was getting to the point I was constantly reading and kept falling asleep with the phone in my hand.The pet meter spreadsheet will turn lime (too low) for 67 or less, and my understanding is 70 to 130 is ideal and of course we want them in the greens as much as possible which will be 99 - 68.
We all started out in those scary numbers, you're already seeing progress so that is good!
There is a sticky for pet meters too that is a great reference when you're not overwhelmed with info.
Thanks! I also wanted to know what he was doing comparatively with the human meter. Where his colors would be if going by that.I personally went back and forth between pet meter and human meter a few times over the years, and I would just suggest for your own sanity to pick a meter and stick with it. Typically the difference between pet meters and human meters is greater at higher ranges, and will get closer at lower blood glucose values.
Moreover, all meters can have an allowable +/-15-20% variance per FDA standards for accuracy. What might be helpful to consider is that you are looking at the overall trends and patterns in BG values over several days regardless of the meter you use.
There's a tab in my spreadsheet with important info that I copied from someone else. It has helped many times when panic sets in and I can't think straight. Another good reason to pick one meter or the other so you can follow one set of guideliness.I definitely need to find that link, so thank you for telling me about it.

Yes, with the human meter reference numbers. There isn’t a TR dosing method link that is specifically written for pet meter users.I just thought of something, if I do stick with the pet meter, I need to find out what the dose is to not go up. We're doing the TR method and Wendy told me last night we don't go up if it's below 200. But that's the human meter I guess? I definitely need to find that link, so thank you for telling me about it.
You’re welcome, and btw no criticism here, I did probably hundreds of comparisons myself between my pet and human meter, so I completely understand the inclinationThanks! I also wanted to know what he was doing comparatively with the human meter. Where his colors would be if going by that.![]()
Regardless of meter. The only difference for action points in the TR dosing method is that for newly diagnosed cats you reduce if under 68 on the AT and under 50 with a human meter. Where it becomes tricky is for cats that have been diabetic for over a year, the reduction point changes to under 40 on a human meter - but we have no equivalent for the pet meter. Also, the other way cats can earn reductions is a week under 100 on the human meter. Again, we don't have the equivalent for the pet meter. I'm also saying AT, as that is more commonly used than the Advocate pet meter.Wendy told me last night we don't go up if it's below 200. But that's the human meter I guess?
Yes, thank you I did not mean to imply there was a sticky for pet meters. Sorry about that. Wendy and others always fill in those blanks for me when needed.Whoops I wrote too quickly, my brain went straight at the suggestion there was a link on the forum somewhere specific to TR written for pet meter use, and that’s perhaps not what was meant. Sorry for any confusion; I’m glad Wendy clarified![]()
I did read those threads already, but can't hurt to reread them. I even made my hypo kit. And I did check out your ss. Loved that info! I need to make a better ss like yours. I do have a couple questions. I saw in May, at one point your kitty had 94 and it looked like you gave him a food with higher carbs. How come? I thought we weren't supposed to give that till they were under 70?There's a tab in my spreadsheet with important info that I copied from someone else. It has helped many times when panic sets in and I can't think straight. Another good reason to pick one meter or the other so you can follow one set of guideliness.
Heres some of those links:
Sticky - Tight Regulation: Becoming Data Ready to Shoot / Handle Lower Pre-shot Numbers
Sticky - Don't Panic! or How to Handle Low Numbers
Sticky - How to treat HYPOS - THEY CAN KILL! Print this Out!!
Sounds like you have a very full plate with your other kitty too, glad you're here.![]()
So if he hits below 70 on preshot, what kind of reduction? I thought I read half a unit but not sure. And is that just for a preshot, or if he gets 68 at say his +4 or 6, do you do a reduction? Is there ever a number we don't give a shot?Nice preshot!
Regardless of meter. The only difference for action points in the TR dosing method is that for newly diagnosed cats you reduce if under 68 on the AT and under 50 with a human meter. Where it becomes tricky is for cats that have been diabetic for over a year, the reduction point changes to under 40 on a human meter - but we have no equivalent for the pet meter. Also, the other way cats can earn reductions is a week under 100 on the human meter. Again, we don't have the equivalent for the pet meter. I'm also saying AT, as that is more commonly used than the Advocate pet meter.
Freestyle Lite is at least one meter with the same blood drop size requirement as the AT. Relion used to have a meter that I used, that had the same blood drop requirement. Then it was discontinued. However, I reserve the right to return to this discussion later.![]()
You'll hear a lot here that every cat is different (ECID). If you're referred to May 13th I certainly had guidance from someone here as we were still very new to green preshots and that was a big shift in numbers for him after an extensive dental surgery.I saw in May, at one point your kitty had 94 and it looked like you gave him a food with higher carbs. How come? I thought we weren't supposed to give that till they were under 70?
Thank you for explaining that. I'm most afraid of when am emergency happens in numbers, no one will be around at that time, before I have to make the what to give in insulin decision. So I'm trying to learn all I can.You'll hear a lot here that every cat is different (ECID). If you're referred to May 13th I certainly had guidance from someone here as we were still very new to green preshots and that was a big shift in numbers for him after an extensive dental surgery.
But his preshot was low so I got a +1 and he was still low, before insulin even kicked in, so I was just keeping enough food on board so he didn't drop too low. His data from 5/11 helped drive those choices. Small snacks helps Petey not dive to low, too quick.
Shooting greens is scary and stressful and requires assistance from ppl here and lots of data for your kitty.