11/10 Nico amps- 297, +3- 301, +6- 341,pmps- 328 | Feline Diabetes Message Board - FDMB

11/10 Nico amps- 297, +3- 301, +6- 341,pmps- 328

A little scary. Just under 300, but going up to 3u as said here yesterday. I was very nervous after several days of high bounce. But I trust the people here know a LOT more than I.
So here we go!
I'm try the +1.5 tonight.
It is scary as the numbers get a bit lower than you are used to! We all understand.
You're doing great!
Have a safe surf Nico, wishing you gentle cycles ahead :bighug: 🌊🏄‍♂️
 
Why not switch to the Relion completely? Nico's numbers will already look better and it's what most use anyway.
Regardless, looking better already, you're doing great!
 
Why not switch to the Relion completely? Nico's numbers will already look better and it's what most use anyway.
Regardless, looking better already, you're doing great!
I know this is going to sound goofy, but I haven't switched over just to Relion for 2 reasons. 1- it requires 0.5 for the blood drop and if not often gives me error readings. And 2- His glucose numbers look better than they actually are.:/ And I don't like that. The fact that they're so different still (341vs253 just now), proves that point to me. I realize that this all started by using human meters for pets, but that's because it's all that was available. Science shows that glucose is measured differently on humans vs cats. I've seen it before, but just looking it up now, it says this. So aren't I getting an actual accurate idea of his true readings using my pet meter? When I go back to the doctor eventually, and she takes a test and it shows it's not 100 like my human meter at home is showing me, but a good 170-200? That's going to be a problem, no?
If I'm wrong in thinking this, I am definitely open. But I really don't think pet meters are gimmicks. We're different species and from the sounds of it, our blood chemistry is different and needs to be tested differently. Now at some point I'm definitely going to have to figure what's good and what's too low for both. I'm also thinking once the numbers climb down hopefully there will be less difference in the 2 numbers so I can just switch to the Relion. At least that's what I'm hoping. I'm just so new to this and try reading as much here and online as I can about this.
"Calibration: Human glucose meters are calibrated for human blood, while pet meters are calibrated for the different blood composition of dogs and cats.
  • The ratio of glucose in red blood cells versus plasma is different between species.
  • A human meter can't account for this difference, which can lead to inaccurate readings.
 
Do you consider 0.5 much or little? My meter needs 1μl, I wanted to get one with 0.6 but the strips were harder to get by.

I know about the difference in meters, but consider that most people here use human meters so your sheet will always seem off. Furthermore, the guidelines are for human meters and there's no real conversion, so dosing becomes harder.

Testing at the vet will always be off, because of stress. That's why fructosamine tests are mostly used.
 
My doc didn't do the fructose one. Should I ask for that one instead of their poke when I bring him in next? I wasn't intending to to I got him (haha) situated.
And I find .5 a lot. My order one only needs .3 for the blood and it's much easier.
Nico had begun struggling with the ear pokes, and I'm already using the 30g lancer. Meant for 28, but that's what I got.
Ok! I guess I can try. But it's going to throw my spreadsheet totally off. I guess I should ask Wendy if she'd prefer it and how she'd like me to go forward. So as to make the most sense.
Someone at the PZ board told me about a human meter that only required the same amount of blood as my pet meter. But the strips cost even more than the ones for my pet!🤣 I don't think so. If I buy a hundred at a time, they throw in a box of 50 and I also get 30% off so they were about $0.44ea strip.😁
But I'll ask. It's why I started trying to get both regularly. To be able to look and compare. I was also hoping to learn the difference between the 2. So if I just took the Relion, I'd automatically know what the pet meter would read
 
@Wendy&Neko can you tell me what you think of above? I can try just taking the Relion and putting that up on the ss. But to make it easier for you to read, how best would you like me to do it? Create a new ss just for the Relion starting today? Or just keep this one and continue but using the Relion numbers? I don't want to confuse you with suddenly drastic number changes, as Maddie suggested I just switch.
 
Jumping in to say we do have members that use pet calibrate meters (@Laurie&Petey and others) and an adjustment is made to the lowest number in the SS (BG < 68 instead of 50). Maybe Laurie can weigh in on the pros and cons. I imagine it’d be easier to get (more aligned) advice with the human meter, but the low adjustment helps avoid major hypos). I made the switch from pet to human and I’ve also used a Libre here or there… all 3 give different numbers. What I’ve found now that we’re almost a year into the human meter is that it gets very hard to make a full switch after you’ve grown familiar with a certain set of numbers… it also gets difficult to switch from human to pet because it feels like a massive step backwards when the numbers increase (even though technically the same). Regardless, it’s important to use what you’re comfortable with and can manage.
 
Jumping in to say we do have members that use pet calibrate meters (@Laurie&Petey and others) and an adjustment is made to the lowest number in the SS (BG < 68 instead of 50). Maybe Laurie can weigh in on the pros and cons. I imagine it’d be easier to get (more aligned) advice with the human meter, but the low adjustment helps avoid major hypos). I made the switch from pet to human and I’ve also used a Libre here or there… all 3 give different numbers. What I’ve found now that we’re almost a year into the human meter is that it gets very hard to make a full switch after you’ve grown familiar with a certain set of numbers… it also gets difficult to switch from human to pet because it feels like a massive step backwards when the numbers increase (even though technically the same). Regardless, it’s important to use what you’re comfortable with and can manage.
Thanks! It's why I haven't bothered switching. But it would be good to know what the equivalent would be in numbers when he's doing better. Like say the 300's. If my pet meter says that it's much better than the human. It's confusing indeed. 😅
 
1- it requires 0.5 for the blood drop and if not often gives me error readings. And 2- His glucose numbers look better than they actually are.:/ And I don't like that
Thanks for the tag @Briana + Binx

The two reasons you listed are why I still use the AT3 too. It's also an easier conversation with my vet who is also using and comparing with a pet meter. And I guess I'm just not very frugal if I'm willing to pay for those strips! 🤑

That being said, we are the rare few. And I never drive myself crazy trying to use both. Once in awhile when he is pretty low, I do test on my Relion out of curiosity and that number is verrry low in those cases.

I think it really comes down to how much money would you like to save! 😁
 
Thanks for the tag @Briana + Binx

The two reasons you listed are why I still use the AT3 too. It's also an easier conversation with my vet who is also using and comparing with a pet meter. And I guess I'm just not very frugal if I'm willing to pay for those strips! 🤑

That being said, we are the rare few. And I never drive myself crazy trying to use both. Once in awhile when he is pretty low, I do test on my Relion out of curiosity and that number is verrry low in those cases.

I think it really comes down to how much money would you like to save! 😁
I was figuring accuracy was more important to me at this stage really. Not being a pro, I was very concerned and I'd already had the meter for another. She went into quick remission so I only use it for spot checking now.
But how do you know what the good, not so good, bad, and REALLY bad numbers are?
I think I read before 70 is hypo, and under 120 is good? But not positive. Aside from that I have no clue.🙁
My vet originally insisted it HAD to be a pet meter the first time I bought it. So I never looked at human ones.
 
I was figuring accuracy was more important to me at this stage really. Not being a pro, I was very concerned and I'd already had the meter for another. She went into quick remission so I only use it for spot checking now.
But how do you know what the good, not so good, bad, and REALLY bad numbers are?
I think I read before 70 is hypo, and under 120 is good? But not positive. Aside from that I have no clue.🙁
My vet originally insisted it HAD to be a pet meter the first time I bought it. So I never looked at human ones.
The pet meter spreadsheet will turn lime (too low) for 67 or less, and my understanding is 70 to 130 is ideal and of course we want them in the greens as much as possible which will be 99 - 68.

We all started out in those scary numbers, you're already seeing progress so that is good!

There is a sticky for pet meters too that is a great reference when you're not overwhelmed with info.
 
I personally went back and forth between pet meter and human meter a few times over the years, and I would just suggest for your own sanity to pick a meter and stick with it. Typically the difference between pet meters and human meters is greater at higher ranges, and will get closer at lower blood glucose values.

Moreover, all meters can have an allowable +/-15-20% variance per FDA standards for accuracy. What might be helpful to consider is that you are looking at the overall trends and patterns in BG values over several days regardless of the meter you use.
 
The pet meter spreadsheet will turn lime (too low) for 67 or less, and my understanding is 70 to 130 is ideal and of course we want them in the greens as much as possible which will be 99 - 68.

We all started out in those scary numbers, you're already seeing progress so that is good!

There is a sticky for pet meters too that is a great reference when you're not overwhelmed with info.
I am so going to find today right now. I've actually taken a break and for the last 2 whole days, haven't read anything for either Nico or my newly diagnosed cancer kitty. It was getting to the point I was constantly reading and kept falling asleep with the phone in my hand.😅
I just thought of something, if I do stick with the pet meter, I need to find out what the dose is to not go up. We're doing the TR method and Wendy told me last night we don't go up if it's below 200. But that's the human meter I guess? I definitely need to find that link, so thank you for telling me about it.
And he had an entire month I think, on PZ. There was no progress there. :( I'm so glad after reading about Lantus, that we switched. Flatter curves, less chance of hypo? I'm for all that!
I personally went back and forth between pet meter and human meter a few times over the years, and I would just suggest for your own sanity to pick a meter and stick with it. Typically the difference between pet meters and human meters is greater at higher ranges, and will get closer at lower blood glucose values.

Moreover, all meters can have an allowable +/-15-20% variance per FDA standards for accuracy. What might be helpful to consider is that you are looking at the overall trends and patterns in BG values over several days regardless of the meter you use.
Thanks! I also wanted to know what he was doing comparatively with the human meter. Where his colors would be if going by that. :)
 
I definitely need to find that link, so thank you for telling me about it.
There's a tab in my spreadsheet with important info that I copied from someone else. It has helped many times when panic sets in and I can't think straight. Another good reason to pick one meter or the other so you can follow one set of guideliness.

Heres some of those links:

Sticky - Tight Regulation: Becoming Data Ready to Shoot / Handle Lower Pre-shot Numbers

Sticky - Don't Panic! or How to Handle Low Numbers

Sticky - How to treat HYPOS - THEY CAN KILL! Print this Out!!

Sounds like you have a very full plate with your other kitty too, glad you're here. :bighug:
 
I just thought of something, if I do stick with the pet meter, I need to find out what the dose is to not go up. We're doing the TR method and Wendy told me last night we don't go up if it's below 200. But that's the human meter I guess? I definitely need to find that link, so thank you for telling me about it.
Yes, with the human meter reference numbers. There isn’t a TR dosing method link that is specifically written for pet meter users.

Thanks! I also wanted to know what he was doing comparatively with the human meter. Where his colors would be if going by that. :)
You’re welcome, and btw no criticism here, I did probably hundreds of comparisons myself between my pet and human meter, so I completely understand the inclination ;)
 
Nice preshot!

Wendy told me last night we don't go up if it's below 200. But that's the human meter I guess?
Regardless of meter. The only difference for action points in the TR dosing method is that for newly diagnosed cats you reduce if under 68 on the AT and under 50 with a human meter. Where it becomes tricky is for cats that have been diabetic for over a year, the reduction point changes to under 40 on a human meter - but we have no equivalent for the pet meter. Also, the other way cats can earn reductions is a week under 100 on the human meter. Again, we don't have the equivalent for the pet meter. I'm also saying AT, as that is more commonly used than the Advocate pet meter.

The dosing methods we use were developed with human meters, back in the ages before pet meters were developed. When I started, there were no pet meters. My vet and I used to compare the best places to buy cheap test strips for our human meters. When the AT came out she told me about it, and said "I expect you don't want to switch?". 🤣

Having said the above, you can use what you are comfortable with now. You are in the intense learning phase, no need to switch out to a new meter now, unless the cost is an issue. BTW, Freestyle Lite is at least one meter with the same blood drop size requirement as the AT. Relion used to have a meter that I used, that had the same blood drop requirement. Then it was discontinued. However, I reserve the right to return to this discussion later. ;)
 
Whoops I wrote too quickly, my brain went straight at the suggestion there was a link on the forum somewhere specific to TR written for pet meter use, and that’s perhaps not what was meant. Sorry for any confusion; I’m glad Wendy clarified :)
 
Whoops I wrote too quickly, my brain went straight at the suggestion there was a link on the forum somewhere specific to TR written for pet meter use, and that’s perhaps not what was meant. Sorry for any confusion; I’m glad Wendy clarified :)
Yes, thank you I did not mean to imply there was a sticky for pet meters. Sorry about that. Wendy and others always fill in those blanks for me when needed.
 
There's a tab in my spreadsheet with important info that I copied from someone else. It has helped many times when panic sets in and I can't think straight. Another good reason to pick one meter or the other so you can follow one set of guideliness.

Heres some of those links:

Sticky - Tight Regulation: Becoming Data Ready to Shoot / Handle Lower Pre-shot Numbers

Sticky - Don't Panic! or How to Handle Low Numbers

Sticky - How to treat HYPOS - THEY CAN KILL! Print this Out!!

Sounds like you have a very full plate with your other kitty too, glad you're here. :bighug:
I did read those threads already, but can't hurt to reread them. I even made my hypo kit. And I did check out your ss. Loved that info! I need to make a better ss like yours. I do have a couple questions. I saw in May, at one point your kitty had 94 and it looked like you gave him a food with higher carbs. How come? I thought we weren't supposed to give that till they were under 70?
Also, I thought there was a certain number where we don't give a shot? If the preshot is real low? Or that we give a reduction if that's too low?
Thought I'd ask, thanks!
Nice preshot!


Regardless of meter. The only difference for action points in the TR dosing method is that for newly diagnosed cats you reduce if under 68 on the AT and under 50 with a human meter. Where it becomes tricky is for cats that have been diabetic for over a year, the reduction point changes to under 40 on a human meter - but we have no equivalent for the pet meter. Also, the other way cats can earn reductions is a week under 100 on the human meter. Again, we don't have the equivalent for the pet meter. I'm also saying AT, as that is more commonly used than the Advocate pet meter.
Freestyle Lite is at least one meter with the same blood drop size requirement as the AT. Relion used to have a meter that I used, that had the same blood drop requirement. Then it was discontinued. However, I reserve the right to return to this discussion later. ;)
So if he hits below 70 on preshot, what kind of reduction? I thought I read half a unit but not sure. And is that just for a preshot, or if he gets 68 at say his +4 or 6, do you do a reduction? Is there ever a number we don't give a shot?
I'll check out that freestyle. I know the ones you're taking about for Relion. The micro & confirm? I tried finding them too. And that was a lovely preshot number! For him anyhow. I know 300's isn't good either, but at the same time it's better all day vs the 500-600's.
I forgot the +1.5, but will try in the morning.
 
I saw in May, at one point your kitty had 94 and it looked like you gave him a food with higher carbs. How come? I thought we weren't supposed to give that till they were under 70?
You'll hear a lot here that every cat is different (ECID). If you're referred to May 13th I certainly had guidance from someone here as we were still very new to green preshots and that was a big shift in numbers for him after an extensive dental surgery.

But his preshot was low so I got a +1 and he was still low, before insulin even kicked in, so I was just keeping enough food on board so he didn't drop too low. His data from 5/11 helped drive those choices. Small snacks helps Petey not dive to low, too quick.

Shooting greens is scary and stressful and requires assistance from ppl here and lots of data for your kitty.
 
You'll hear a lot here that every cat is different (ECID). If you're referred to May 13th I certainly had guidance from someone here as we were still very new to green preshots and that was a big shift in numbers for him after an extensive dental surgery.

But his preshot was low so I got a +1 and he was still low, before insulin even kicked in, so I was just keeping enough food on board so he didn't drop too low. His data from 5/11 helped drive those choices. Small snacks helps Petey not dive to low, too quick.

Shooting greens is scary and stressful and requires assistance from ppl here and lots of data for your kitty.
Thank you for explaining that. I'm most afraid of when am emergency happens in numbers, no one will be around at that time, before I have to make the what to give in insulin decision. So I'm trying to learn all I can.😊
@Wendy&Neko
Something that bugs me in the US's about the difference in using the pet meters verses the human. The ONLY difference is in the very bottom numbers/colors. One of the other reasons I was wanting to know what the Relion meter said, is because when I use the pet meter and it says 360 (in the pink), but my human meter says 273 (in the yellow);just according to the color chart, he looks like he's doing better. I find it odd none of the other numbers were changed with the colors.
 
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