Relion meter vs AlphaTrak3 numbers

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Annie77!

Member
I'm still struggling with testing Romeo and I find the AlphaTrak3 difficult to use. I get an error message more every time. In frustration, I tried it on myself and the same thing happened. Maybe it can't test humans?

Since the Relion is a human meter, does it read higher than the AlphaTrak3?
 
FYI - that thread mentioned above was using the old Alphatrak 1, now it's up to 3 and made by a different vendor. The Alphatrak 3 does tend to read higher in higher numbers, and often higher in lower numbers too, though a lot closer to the human meter. The lower numbers are where it's really important. The "take action" number is 68 on the AT now. At one point there was a theory that the AT read 30 points above the human meter, hence the old thinking of "hypo" below 80 on the AT. Since then, lots of people have done comparisons, and that 30 points doesn't hold now. There were even a few comparisons in lower numbers where the AT read a bit below the human meter.

If this all seems confusing, it is when you compare two meters, much less of different types. Our recommendation is to pick one meter and stick with it. If your vet insists on the curves using the AT, and you've bought one already, you can do a few curves using both meters. Or just tell the vet you can't get the AT to work for you.
 
Thanks @squeem3 and @Wendy&Neko. That's very helpful. Am I correct in thinking that the danger number on the AT is 68 and on the Relion it's 50?

My vet said I could return the AT if I didn't like it and I'm thinking about making the switch. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong so I'm going to re-read info you have on the AT.
 
Try looking on Youtube for videos of testing a cat with the AT. I found at least one from the AAHA. We have videos of home testing too, but not sure if there is one with the AT.
 
What error are you getting? The AT3 will be a much closer number to what a lab test would show with your cat—but most people here use a human meter because the cost is less. A human meter generally will show a number that is less than the actual number you would see with a lab test. The AT 3 also has in general more stringent accuracy requirements than many human meters (due to meeting ISO standards which not all human meters do I am told). to me there are two other advantages to AT3: it needs much less blood and it had an alert you can set if the cat is so anemic that it is affecting the test. Human meters don’t have that feature.

I will bet, since you are using a human and AT3 meter that you may be applying the blood too early to the strip. Because human meters time out much more quickly you get used to rushing —the time out is much later in the AT (handy with uncooperative cats)—but you need to wait to apply the blood. When you hear the beep in human meters it often means “apply blood” but NOT in the AT3. The beep means it’s getting ready—look at the screen. After the beep it shows you a code (double check that the code and little animal icon are for cats) THEN it shows the vial opening. THEN it shows a drop of blood on a test strip. Do not apply blood until you see the icon for drop of blood and test strip.

edit: all of this said, the guidelines here are geared toward human meters. So as long as your vet doesn’t mind it doesn’t matter what you use. If you stick with the AT3 (I use one and like it, hate the app) just make sure when getting advice for dosing that they know you are using an AT
 
squeem3 said:
No meter can tell the difference between human blood and non-human blood.

Most people don't use the pet meters since they're so expensive and you can't just pop into a pharmacy to buy more test strips if you forget to order more online.

Human meters generally read lower than pet meters. This old thread specifically discusses Relion vs AlphaTak: https://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/relion-vs-alphatrak.61077/
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Meters can’t tell the difference between blood BUT there is a SIGNIFICANT difference in how different species transport glucose in the blood. Each meter uses algorithms to convert a chemical reaction in the strip to an electrical charge that is then used to determine the number that appears on the screen. These are NOT mini labs in your hand. They are designed to work with the blood of the species for whom the algorithms were written. So if you test a human with a pet meter, or a cat with a pet meter set on dog, or horse, or cow—all of these numbers will be inaccurate—to some degree.
 
Annie77! said:
You're right @SmallestSparrow, I was jumping the gun on applying the blood to the meter. I finally got it to work yesterday but I'm still having difficulties getting Romeo to cooperate. Thanks for your help.
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Happened to me also. I was ready to throw it away when I decided to watch the screen. I was used to using an human meter for his ketones when he was on Bexacat and was “trained” to hurry as soon as I heard the beep.

Everyone has trouble urging cooperation at first. Sometimes for some time. You will get there I promise. High value low carb treats are part of the success plan. And the more the ears are stuck the easier they bleed. I only stick his left ear so I have the right for his topical medications —occasionally if he’s been stuck a lot I will use the right and it’s sooo much more difficult. In the beginning if I didn’t succeed I’d still praise him and give a treat and try to appear happy (I have a sensitive boy who lives to please) and tried again another time.
The good news is if he’s just starting insulin his BG will probably be plenty high for a while as you perfect your technique. And a few decades ago we didn’t test at all and cats survived. You will get this.

@Heike & BInie has a girl more spirited and independent than my boy—she and Binie have come a long way in testing and I’m sure she would say if she can get Binie to agree there’s hope for everyone
 
Hi Annie, for some of us testing is the hardest skill to master. It was definitely like that for Binie and me. In the beginning I thought we would never manage. Today Binie is very cooperative as long as I follow the rules we agreed on:
1. She trades a drop of blood for a half tsp of churus I smear on a plate, so it takes her longer to lick it up. I think that's fair and I found low carb churus.
2. I am allowed to poke her and test ONLY while she licks the churus. If I am not fast enough and she finished while I am not ready, I lost the game. I will not get a test if I don't start with Nr. 1 again.

It took us a long time to get there and she was wearing a libre for a year. I always kept practicing. A few month ago we had to stop the libre because she had skin issues and I was very concerned if I manage to test her several times a day. But to my surprise it worked and we are both relaxed now. She even starts to purr if she hears the click of the teststrip box. Only if she got too many pokes in a short time, she looses patience. But I think that's understandable and I try to avoid poking her too much.

I am sure you can manage that too. Give yourself and Romeo some time! And the libre is a great tool, especially if testing is difficult. Good luck! :bighug::bighug::bighug:
 
Lauren & Esse said:
@Heike & BInie Can I ask--what are the low-carb Churus you have?
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Of course, but I am not sure if it's helpful, as I live in Germany and it's a German brand: It's the "cat cream multivitamin" from Miamor. It's 4 %. I know from other American groups that there are low carb churus. Many brands and tastes are lower carb but if you use it for testing you don't use much anyway, so even higher carb would be o.k.
 
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