Can you post the pictures of the syringes in the part 3 thread please?
I also said:
“Just for me trying to figure out how he ended up at 45 today at +4, can you please tell me what and when he ate leading up to the lime green 45. He should have been eating snacks of low carb wet food every hour or so between shot time and +4. When he hit the lime green 45, what did you feed him?”
- A preshot test is simply the test done before giving the insulin shot. The main reason we do preshot tests is to ensure the cat's blood glucose is high enough for insulin. Sometimes they can surprise us with a lower than expected number.What's a preshot test?
Go by the AT test results in the AT meter. The AT test strips are batch tested and coded to give more accurate results with cat/dog blood.The AT2 strip shows 10.9 whilst the FSL strip shows 13.8. Which is actually accurate? Its the same drop of blood.
The fact that there were no symptoms at that point does not mean there was not a risk. 'Absence of symptoms does not necessarily mean absence of hypo'. Some cats don't show any symptoms at all until the hypo is advanced or severe. But things can change quickly in hypo situations. A couple of examples...Since you said to me that you only drew one drop of blood at testing...and you said he was walking around, being his happy self even during that 2.5 drop at +4, I would take the gamble of 0.25 IU on my cat above a 12 mmol/L pre-shot.
I've talked to my vet about it. She's a cat-only vet treating quite a few diabetic kitties, and she has one herself... But she has never done microdosing. And she was absolutely amazed that tiny doses worked in my cat. (BTW, she's happy for me to dose as I think necessary).Out of curiosity, has anyone had experience discussing microdosing with a vet?
If you are in that kind of situation and need to get sugar into the cat fast and they are not even in a state to eat, then what do you do?The fact that there were no symptoms at that point does not mean there was not a risk. 'Absence of symptoms does not necessarily mean absence of hypo'. Some cats don't show any symptoms at all until the hypo is advanced or severe. But things can change quickly in hypo situations. A couple of examples...
I did a random spot check test on Bertie. His BG was 2.6 on a human meter. But it was dropping fast... He looked completely normal at that point.
In the seconds it took me to run downstairs, grab glucose, and run back up again, everything had changed. He was showing a number of hypo symptoms. He was staggering around and falling over. His pupils were completely dilated. He appeared to be hallucinating. And he'd become very aggressive which made it really hard to get glucose into him.
Another UK lady was watching TV one evening with her cat sitting next to her on the couch. Cat appeared to be completely normal.
Then the cat just fell off the edge of the couch and started having seizures. This cat showed no symptoms whatsoever until the hypo was severe...
Fortunately the lady knew what to do, and her quick actions may well have saved her cat's life.
For this reason we have to take low numbers very seriously, even if there are no hypo symptoms.
"Out of curiosity, has anyone had experience discussing microdosing with a vet?"
I've talked to my vet about it. She's a cat-only vet treating quite a few diabetic kitties, and she has one herself... But she has never done microdosing. And she was absolutely amazed that tiny doses worked in my cat. (BTW, she's happy for me to dose as I think necessary).
Is this all you can do during hypo? I'm specifically mentioning the part where they are squeezing syrup into the cat's mouth using a syringe to give him sugar quickly.
i am a newbie here and it's taken a bit to get my head around but i think these pics are incredible!I did it with a U100 too, but the principle is the same. In fact, my U40s had a skinnier plunger, and the syringe itself (its wall) wasn't as thick, so made it easier to fine tune the dose.
0.5 - plunger top is aligned with the 1/2 mark line
0.25 - plunger top is half way between bottom of line zero and the 1/2 mark line (there is a hairline of greenery between the zero line and the plunger top)
0.1 - the plunger top touches the bottom of the zero line - side view to show that there is some green liquid in the syringe
empty - there is nothing in the syringe, plunger touches the top of the zero line (that empty hairline you see above the plunger is just the perforation - there is no space/air there for a "drop" suction previously discussed)
I'm not really sure whether it helps make things clearer. If you guys disagree with the explanation or execution, let me know and I delete the images.
(Edit: wow, all zoomed in it looks like a skinny 0.25, but I don't have my contacts in and I'm blind without them)
View attachment 67279 View attachment 67280 View attachment 67281
Shelley answered this over on the ProZinc forum. Just in case you didn't see it.On the topic of microdosing... It's such a small drop of insulin... that at times you even wonder whether there was anything that went in to the kitty.
To those who are more experienced with microdosing... Have you gone through times, where you were sure you measured the amount, but then when you test +3hrs, the BG number went up? Which makes you wonder whether you injected that micro amount?
Coz it's such a small amount, can't help but always wonder whether I injected or not... Althouigh I spent nearly 30mins trying to load the syringe with a micro amount.
I talked about his dose this morning over on your ProZinc forum thread.Sadly, it seems like Ottie hasn't remained his old self. (He was more like his old self yesterday). He seems to be back to mopy again.
The only change that I have done since yesterday was that we changed his food from Sheba Fine Flakes to Thrive. The main reason was that I am trying to find food that is low is phosphorous for his CKD. I had to change his food a few times since his diagnosis... because Ottie will eat the food for a day or so... then completely refuse. At the moment, I am not sure how long Thrive will succeed to keep him satisfied.
So far, its looking like his insulin dose needs to be increased... but I presume I remain on course at 0.1U until 7 days is complete?
I feel deflated today to watch him back to his mopy self.
I have been doing BG testing at +3 and +6 to reduce the amount of times his ears are pricked. BUT I will have to test him more (every 2hr) when I increase dosage to 0.25U.
Since yesterday, it seems like his water drinking has slightly increased too.
Is it worth trying a dose increase earlier? Or best to carry out the 7 days cycle.
For lower phosphorus foods, I feed my cats Weruva BFF PLAY pate foods (chicken duck and turkey and chicken and lamb.). The duck is popular with a lot of my cats. Do you have bloodwork on Ottie that you can share? What was his BUN, Creatinine, and Phosphorus at his last bloodwork?Sadly, it seems like Ottie hasn't remained his old self. (He was more like his old self yesterday). He seems to be back to mopy again.
The only change that I have done since yesterday was that we changed his food from Sheba Fine Flakes to Thrive. The main reason was that I am trying to find food that is low is phosphorous for his CKD. I had to change his food a few times since his diagnosis... because Ottie will eat the food for a day or so... then completely refuse. At the moment, I am not sure how long Thrive will succeed to keep him satisfied.
So far, its looking like his insulin dose needs to be increased... but I presume I remain on course at 0.1U until 7 days is complete?
I feel deflated today to watch him back to his mopy self.
I have been doing BG testing at +3 and +6 to reduce the amount of times his ears are pricked. BUT I will have to test him more (every 2hr) when I increase dosage to 0.25U.
Since yesterday, it seems like his water drinking has slightly increased too.
Is it worth trying a dose increase earlier? Or best to carry out the 7 days cycle.
For lower phosphorus foods, I feed my cats Weruva BFF PLAY pate foods (chicken duck and turkey and chicken and lamb.). The duck is popular with a lot of my cats. Do you have bloodwork on Ottie that you can share? What was his BUN, Creatinine, and Phosphorus at his last bloodwork?
Have you seen this food list of low phosphorus low carb foods for diabetics with CKD?
https://www.bizave.com/foodlists/CKD Diabetes Food List.pdf
I am not sure which of these foods are available to you in the UK.
With Urea that high, it’s likely that Ottie feels nauseated and this will cause pickiness/reluctance to eat. Anti-nausea medication can really help this. If you were in the US, I would say to get some Cerenia tablets and also some Ondansetron tablets from your vet (or a script to purchase them) but my friends in the UK often aren’t able to get these meds to take home and treat at home. One friend has to take his cat to the vet for an “anti-nausea” (Cerenia) injection every time the cat feels sick. Those injections only last 24 hours! Some cats do okay on Cerenia, but Ondansetron is the most highly effective anti-nausea medication (downside is that it can be constipating and I believe you already give Ottie Lactulose for constipation.). I have had cats with CKD on both of thee medications daily.Weruva brand isn't something that is easy to get hold of in UK.
Last bloodtest of Ottie was held on 19th June 2023.
Sodium 151 mmol/l (140 - 157)
Potassium 4.9 mmol/l (3.4 - 5.6)
Phosphate 1.7 mmol/l (0.7 - 2.1)
Urea 20.8 mmol/l (6.1 - 12.5)
Creatinine 302 umol/l (45 - 170)
Glucose 15.2 mmol/l (3.8 - 7.6)
With Urea that high, it’s likely that Ottie feels nauseated and this will cause pickiness/reluctance to eat. Anti-nausea medication can really help this. If you were in the US, I would say to get some Cerenia tablets and also some Ondansetron tablets from your vet (or a script to purchase them) but my friends in the UK often aren’t able to get these meds to take home and treat at home. One friend has to take his cat to the vet for an “anti-nausea” (Cerenia) injection every time the cat feels sick. Those injections only last 24 hours! Some cats do okay on Cerenia, but Ondansetron is the most highly effective anti-nausea medication (downside is that it can be constipating and I believe you already give Ottie Lactulose for constipation.). I have had cats with CKD on both of thee medications daily.
Does Ottie go up to food and sniff it and walk away— or lick the surface of the food and walk away? Any odd tooth grinding noises when he chews? These are some common signs of nausea.
Tell me, have they checked his blood pressure? A lot of vets won’t do this unless asked, but it’s very important. Many CKD cats have or will develop hypertension, which further damages the kidneys as well as other organs.
Hugs.![]()
I forgot to mention that 1.3 (4 in US) is considered optimal phosphorus level for a CKD cat.
Will he drink from a water fountain? Drinking water is very beneficial for him (although I understand that it’s distressing to see them drinking a lot of water - I tend to freak out a bit when my cats do it — assuming the worst). So make sure to add water to his food if he will allow you to and still eat it. Otherwise, fountains, dripping faucets, etc. all can get them to take in more water.
You may end up having to feed the renal food and just adjusting his insulin accordingly to keep his BG under control. Some people have to do this (I did.)
Some of us in the UK do have vets who will give us meds to use at home as we deem necessary. From what I've observed this seems to be becoming more common now, thank goodness.. My diabetic cat has CKD and pancreatitis. And my vet lets me have a supply of Cerenia and Mirtazapine.If you were in the US, I would say to get some Cerenia tablets and also some Ondansetron tablets from your vet (or a script to purchase them) but my friends in the UK often aren’t able to get these meds to take home and treat at home.
I get aluminium hydroxide from Hyperdrug.I know aluminum based ones are better binders, but hard to find any in UK. If anyone can recommend one that can be bought easily in UK, please feel free to suggest it.
I get aluminium hydroxide from Hyperdrug.
https://hyperdrug.co.uk/aluminium-hydroxide-powder-30g/#feefo-product-review-widgetIdCan you share the name of the product? Is it safe for cat usage?
https://hyperdrug.co.uk/aluminium-hydroxide-powder-30g/#feefo-product-review-widgetId
I base my dosage on the info from the 'Tanya' CKD site (my vet also recommends this site). See this page, and scroll down for recommended dosage for aluminium hydroxide.
http://felinecrf.org/phosphorus_binders.htm#dosage
Nope, no side effects.Has your kitty had some side-effects from taking the supplement?
Nope, no side effects.
Huh? I don't know what you are talking about or if this is a joke. I'm just trying to find out which syringes she's currently using since there was discussion on previous days about switching to U-100s and then she said she couldn't get any at that time... which was several days ago.Yeah I'm an idiot lol, Suzanne definitely has the easier solution for you![]()
Huh? I don't know what you are talking about or if this is a joke. I'm just trying to find out which syringes she's currently using since there was discussion on previous days about switching to U-100s and then she said she couldn't get any at that time... which was several days ago.
I currently have no U100 syringes and have a lot of the U40 syringes.
Yes. I do remember you suggesting U-100s too -- a while ago back when the subject first came up. And yes, some people do like the digital calipers a lot for fine dosing.Yeah I suggested the U100s too, if you recall.
I referred to my reply, which is right above yours - where I asked her about the digital calliper for fine dosing. Which is obviously less convenient than using U100s. That is all.
I'd either get U100s and if you have a lot of U40s put those (or some) on eBay for sale.
Or, if you rather use the U40s, as mentioned above - Prime a pair of callipers. I can DM you the link for what I've got. Cheap and works exactly how it should.