Info UK INFORMATION (Food, Insulin, Vit B12, and other 'need to know' stuff)

Elizabeth and Bertie

Member Since 2010
Welcome, UK Member. :bighug:
This post has info on feline diabetes supplies in the UK.
[Note: This info is in the process of being updated 13/4/26]

Please know that diabetes is treatable! With good care a diabetic cat can often live as long and as happily as a non-diabetic. What's more, quite a lot of cats have the potential to go into 'remission' from their diabetes and become diet-controlled diabetics.

Things to know and do first...


1. MAKE A 'HYPO KIT.'
Hypo (blood glucose that's too low) may never happen to your cat, but it's wise to be prepared in case you do need to raise blood glucose quickly.
Everyone with a diabetic cat should have a simple sugar source that can be grabbed fast in an emergency. Many UK people just use ordinary honey (sugar/glucose syrup is also fine).
Note: Glucose or honey rubbed onto the gums is the fastest way to raise blood glucose in an emergency.
Also get some high carb food and/or treats, such as Gourmet Gold 'in gravy' food, and/or Webbox 'Lick-e-lix' sachets (not the 'in jelly' ones)
If you're hometesting (testing blood glucose at home) make sure you have plenty of test strips for your glucose meter. You don't want to run out in an emergency.


2. TEST FOR KETONES. Get some ketone test strips (for example 'Ketostix') and monitor your kitty's pee on a regular basis. Crumpling clingfilm loosely in the litter tray (over the litter) is often a good way to catch a pee sample. You literally only need a drop. Some people just catch pee in a ladle or long handled spoon.
Be aware that not all ketones are registered by the ketone test strips. If you notice that your kitty's breath smells fruity or like acetone this can also indicate ketones.
If your cat has a history of ketones, or DKA, then you may want to invest in a blood ketone meter. Testing blood is more accurate than testing pee. The 'On Call Dual' meter is popular with UK folks.

3. LEARN TO HOMETEST BLOOD GLUCOSE. 'Hometesting' may sound a bit daunting at first, but it saves lives and makes managing diabetes so much easier. Most people can do it. And most cats can be tested. It shouldn't hurt them. And they'll still love you. Honestly!
Testing involves pricking the outer edge of an ear (or a paw pad) to get a tiny droplet of blood. That droplet is touched to a test strip in a glucose meter. The meter counts down and gives the result. Cat is rewarded with yummy treats or a cuddle.

GLUCOSE METERS
Many of us use ordinary glucose meters made for humans. Pet-specific meters are also available. Human meters ‘typically’ read a little lower than pet meters, and vice versa. This difference is often greater at higher numbers and less at lower numbers. Both are ‘correct’; it’s just a matter of understanding the range of numbers for the type of meter that you are using.
The most popular human glucose meter is currently the 'Gluco Navii'. It's also one of the cheapest to run. The most popular pet meter is the 'Alphatrak'. But this is pricey to use. Cheaper alternative pet meters include the The 'PetTest' and the 'Centrivet'. (Note: The 'Cerapet' pet meter is not recommended because it's been found to be unreliable, especially at lower blood glucose levels.)
Note: The insulin dosing protocols used here were devised using data from human glucose meters. So an adjustment will need to be made if you are using a pet meter.


The Freestyle Libre
The Freestyle Libre is a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) that some vets are now recommending for pets. It attaches to a small area of shaved skin. And it can monitor glucose trends for 'up to' 14 days. It measures interstitial fluid, not blood, and so is not as accurate as blood glucose testing. Low numbers on the Libre should be double-checked with a hand held blood glucose meter.
Some people have found the Libre useful to use while they're learning to test blood glucose. Some have found it useful for when they go on holiday, so that the cat sitter or cattery can keep an eye on the cat's situation without having to test blood glucose.

4. FEED AN APPROPRIATE LOW CARB DIET. If your cat is already on insulin learn to hometest before switching to low carb. (You may need to reduce the insulin to avoid hypo...) If your cat is waiting to go onto insulin you can switch to low carb first. There's a link to a low carb food list further down the page.

5. DOES YOUR CAT HAVE WEAK BACK LEGS (NEUROPATHY)? Neuropathy is nerve damage caused by chronic high blood glucose. It most often presents as weak back legs ('plantigrade stance'). But it can occasionally affect the front legs (a weakening at the 'wrists' just above the paws), and sometimes the bladder/digestive tract. Cats can recover from neuropathy. Supplements of methyl B12 can really help with healing. 'Dr's Best' methyl cobalamin capsules are easily available in the UK. Two 1500mcg capsules equal a 'typical' 3mg dose.

Note: Potassium deficiency can be another possible cause of leg weakness.
Some diabetic kitties can become low on potassium, especially if they are peeing a lot. A blood test will be needed to see if the cat's potassium levels are low. If low, potassium can be supplemented. But this must be done carefully, under the guidance of your vet.


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INSULINS IN THE UK - and other diabetic supplies:

Your vet might prescribe an insulin made for animals, or one made for humans.
The ISFM (International Society of Feline Medicine) and the UK's RVC both recommend the use of longer-lasting insulins, Prozinc, Lantus/glargine, or Levemir/detemir, over lente insulins such as Caninsulin for new cases of feline diabetes. (Of these, Prozinc is the only longer-lasting insulin actually licensed for cats in the UK.)
For more on the ISFM's and the RVC's guidelines on managing feline diabetes, please scroll to the 'USEFUL REFERENCE' info toward the end of this post.

There are two insulins licensed for cats in the UK, Caninsulin, and Prozinc. If it turns out that a veterinary insulin isn't controlling the diabetes sufficiently well your vet is able, by law, to prescribe a human alternative. However, some vets are unwilling to prescribe a human alternative. And, despite the UK guidelines that the first insulin prescribed should be one that is licensed for cats , a teensy weensy minority of vets (who prefer to use human insulins) will actually prescribe a human insulin as the first choice.
Attitudes between vets vary a lot when it comes to prescribing insulin for your cat...

VETERINARY INSULINS
Caninsulin
and Prozinc are the the most commonly prescribed insulins for cats in the UK.

The RVC has said the current guidelines are that all newly diagnosed cases be prescribed Prozinc, the only long-lasting insulin in the UK currently licensed for cats.
Cats who are currently on Caninsulin and who are not doing well on it may benefit from switching to Prozinc (or one of the human insulins, such as Lantus or Levemir).

The RVC's research found that Prozinc can drop the blood glucose more slowly and last longer in the cat's system; thereby giving overall better glycaemic control than Caninsulin. This can lead to improved clinical signs, and an increased chance of remission. (Recent research has proved what some of us have long observed - that Prozinc has similar remission rates to the human insulin, Lantus.)
Even so, many vets still seem to prescribe Caninsulin. Prozinc has only been available in the UK for a couple of years, and old prescribing habits seem slow to change. Caregivers may need to be pro-active in specifically asking their vet for Prozinc.

SYRINGES
Caninsulin and Prozinc are U40 insulins; that means they have 40 units of insulin per ml of liquid. They are used with corresponding U40 syringes.
Syringes are usually far cheaper to buy online than from your vet. You could use the Caninsulin or Prozinc branded syringes, but many UK'ers use the generic U40 syringes as they are very much cheaper. However, these are all 0.5ml which, while the same size as the Caninsulin syringes, are larger than the (0.3ml) Prozinc syringes.
There are some generics made by VetUK, and there are also 'Sol-Vet' syringes, which cost a little more. (Some UK folks consider that the Sol-Vet U40's have clearer markings and sharper needles):
VetUK U40 syringes: VetUK 0.5ml U40 Insulin Syringe with Needle (Box of 100)
Sol-Vet U40 syringes: SOL-VET U40 Insulin Syringes 0.5ml Box of 100 | Low Prices
SOL-V Insulin U-40 Syringe & Needles

For basic information on using, handling and storing Caninsulin and Prozinc see the FDMB info stickies in the Caninsulin and Prozinc subforums (links below). You can also post in these forums for advice specific to your insulin. But if you need help quickly please post in the main health forum.

Beginner's Guide to Caninsulin (Vetsulin)
Caninsulin/Vetsulin subforum: Caninsulin / Vetsulin and N / NPH

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO PROZINC/ PZI INSULIN FOR DIABETIC CATS
Prozinc/PZI subforum: Prozinc / PZI


HUMAN INSULINS
If a veterinary insulin is not producing good results in your cat your vet can, by law, prescribe insulin that is made for humans, such as Lantus/glargine or Levemir. These insulins can often produce longer, flatter, blood glucose curves than the veterinary insulins.

The human insulins - Lantus/glargine and Levemir are U100, and have 100 units of insulin per ml. They are used with the corresponding U100 syringes.
Most UK'ers use BD U100 syringes with half unit markings ('BD microfine + demi' syringes). The cheapest place to buy them currently (July 2019) is online at Alldaypharmacy:
http://www.alldaypharmacy.co.uk/products/BD-Micro%2dFine-Demi-0.3ml-Syringe-0.3mm-(30G)-x-8mm-Box-of-100.html

For basic info on Lantus and Levemir see the info stickies on the Lantus and Levemir forum. And you can also post on this forum for advice specific to your insulin.
Lantus and Levemir subforum: Lantus / Levemir / Biosimilars

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WHAT TO FEED A DIABETIC CAT?
FDMB recommends that diabetic cats eat wet/canned/raw foods that have less than 10% calories from carbohydrates. (And some cats do best on carb levels in the region of 4% - 6%.). See below for a list of low carb UK foods.
If your cat has other health issues, for example kidney disease, IBD, or pancreatitis, this may further affect your food choices.

A note of caution about switching to a low carb diet...
If your cat is already on insulin and is currently eating a higher carb food then we recommend that you only transition to lower carb food if you can hometest (test your cat’s blood glucose at home) and are able to monitor the effect of the change on your cat’s blood glucose.
That’s because lowering the carb content of the diet can greatly reduce your cat’s blood glucose level, and the insulin dose may need to be reduced accordingly.
Too much insulin can cause hypoglycaemia.

If your cat has not yet started on insulin this is the perfect time to transition safely to low carb wet food. Be sure that your cat's blood glucose is properly tested after the diet change, so that any reduction in blood glucose can be taken into account when deciding the insulin dosage.



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UK FOOD LIST <<< click on link for a long list of foods
Note: Be aware that some apparently low carb foods might still spike your cat's blood glucose levels. There are a number of possible reasons for this, but it may be due to a food intolerance (not uncommon).
Sometimes, finding out what works for your cat will be a matter of 'trial and error'.


LOW CARB CAT TREATS/REWARDS
Many of the most popular commercial cat treats are laden with carbohydrates. Avoid if possible. :stop:
Try to stick with treats that are entirely made from meat or fish. These are the lowest in carbohydrate.
Popular freeze dried treats include; Thrive, Pet Munchies, HiLife 100% meat, Wilko freeze dried treats, Orijen freeze dried treats, Iams 'naturally' pure meat treats. Also from Zooplus; Zoolove 'cat snacks', Cosma snackies (avoid the Cosma ‘Thai’ treats as these contain rice.), Wild Freedom lamb lung or chicken hearts (chicken hearts are a great source of taurine too!), Purizon cat snacks.

Another option is the semi-moist treats, often in stick form. These tend to be a bit higher in carbohydrate but should still be below 10% cals from carbs (often below 5%). Nature's Menu 95% meat treats, Waitrose 7 deli snack sticks, Tesco cat sticks, Asda tiger '6 Stix', Webbox 'tasty sticks'. And from Zooplus, Feringa meat/fish cat sticks, Feringa fish snacks, Tigeria cat sticks, Catessy cat sticks, Sanabelle tasty treats.

Little pieces of plainly cooked or raw meat, or cooked fish, also make good treats. And some cats like a tiny piece of cheese or a lick of plain unsweetened yoghurt.

Treats to hide tablets in - and make pill-giving easier;

Nature's Menu soft 95% meat treats seem to be really good for this. Break off a piece, flatten, and mould around the pill. (If you find the treats too stiff or dry, just moisten with a touch of water.) Then follow with a couple of pieces of treat that have no pill inside to leave the cat on a 'happy' :rolleyes:.

Tasty toppings to encourage kitty to eat:
A sprinkle of something yummy on top of food can help transition a kitty to low carb wet foods, and can help to tempt a jaded appetite. Crushed freeze dried cat treats are really good for this (especially dried liver treats). Other options include a little bit of grated cheese, Engevita yeast flakes, and 'Fortiflora' probiotic.


DRY FOOD
We do not recommend dry food for cats.
Firstly, almost all dry foods are far too high in carbohydrate. Secondly, dry foods are....um.....'dry'. Cats have a low thirst drive and may not get all the water they need on a dry diet.
However, some cats come here 'addicted' to dry foods, and it can take time to transition them to low carb wet. In the meantime, it may be possible to transition them to a dry food that is lower in carbs than the one the kitty is currently eating.
There are also some cats who seem determined to only eat dry food despite their caregiver's best efforts to convert them to wet. So these foods may also be suitable for these kitties.

There are currently (May 2020) three dry kibble foods in the UK that are relatively low in carbohydrates (close to 10% cals from carbs or a bit above). These are: Porta 21 Sensible 'grain free' from Zooplus, and Thrive premium plus ('chicken' and 'chicken & turkey' flavours - NOT the fish flavour..)

There is also Ziwi Peak air-dried cat food which is less than 10% calories from carbs. This is really dried meat with nutritional additives, so the texture is not like that of regular kibble.

Be aware that, if switching to a lower carb food - even if that food is dry - it is still important to be monitoring the cat's blood glucose at home and reducing the insulin dose if necessary in order to avoid hypoglycemia.


'CONVALESCENCE' FOODS - For when an older or sick kitty needs a little extra support.
Liquivite is a liquid food for cats. The consistency is a bit like thick chicken soup. Many cats find it very palatable, especially if warmed. It is low in carbohydrates, and phosphorous, but also fairly low in calories. Very useful for helping kitties to stay nourished and hydrated. For more info see here: Liquid food - Ideal for weaning kittens or puppies. Also appeals to the sick or older cat or dog
Gourmet Gold pates are quite high in calories have been used by some folks for getting extra calories into kitties, or for 'syringe feeding'. The food is smooth and quite easily mixed with water to make it into a good consistency for syringing. Miamor pates from Zooplus and Little Big Paw would probably do a similar job.


Ingredients to avoid feeding my cat?
Some things you may wish to be aware of:
Cats with CRF/CKD may wish to avoid cranberry (acidifying) and dandelion (diuretic) . Thanks to Critter Mom for raising awareness of this.
More info on this can be found on the Tanya CRF website:
http://www.felinecrf.org/holistic_treatments.htm#cautions
Allergies/intolerances: Beef, fish/salmon, chicken, grain and soya seem to be most common.
Carageenan has been observed to affect some kitties. (And carageenan is known to be an inflammatory agent.)
'Vegetable protein extract' is used in a number of cat foods and has been found to raise blood glucose in a minority of kitties, sometimes quite dramatically. ('VPE' may be made from soya or other vegetable protein). Felix 'As Good As It Looks' seems, historically, to have been the main culprit in this regard, but there are newer foods that also list this in their ingredients.
Soya: Some folks choose to avoid this because of a possible link to thryoid problems. Dr Lisa Pierson of catinfo.org says;
"Note that there is a negative relationship between soy and thyroid health. Given how common hyperthyroidism is in cats, I will not feed soy to any cat in my care.”
www.catinfo.org
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OTHER GENERAL INFO


CARB CALCULATORS - calculating 'percentage of calories from carbs'

If you're considering a food that isn't on the food list, or the food you've bought seems to have different data to that same food on the list, then you can easily calculate the percentage of calories from carbs yourself. You just need to look at the label and get the %'s for protein, fat, ash, fibre, and moisture. Then you can use either of these calculators.
Online calculator from 'Balance IT':
https://secure.balanceit.com/tools/_gaconverter/index.php?

Calculator created by FDMB member 'Hellolucy':If you click on the link below you can open with Google sheets and save a copy for your own use.
%CalsCalc.xlsx

DRY MATTER CALCULATOR
http://fnae.org/dmb.html?inputboxm=77&inputboxi=1.7&button.x=75&button.y=21&button=Click
Some things are best compared on a dry matter basis; phosphorous for example (for cats with kidney disease.) This 'dry matter calculator' is a useful tool for this; and could also be useful for comparing fat content (especially for those pancreatitis kitties who’ve been found to benefit from lower fat intake).

GETTING SUPPORT
UK Feline Diabetes Support Group (Facebook).

This is a really friendly and helpful little community of UK folks with diabetic kitties. It is a great place to chat (and occasionally laugh) with other UK folks, or to find the latest info on food and/or supplies in the UK, or to get advice/support with injecting, or with testing blood glucose.
Note: The group is completely independent and is not directly affiliated to any other group.
Facebook

USEFUL REFERENCE INFORMATION ON MANAGING FELINE DIABETES
The full international ISFM guidelines on managing feline diabetes are here
:
http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/1098612X15571880

UK-specific info from the Royal Veterinary College is here: 'Guide to feline diabetes. Diagnosis and treatment guidelines of the RVC Diabetic Remission Clinic'.
https://www.rvc.ac.uk/Media/Default/small-animal/documents/feline-diabetes-guide.pdf


GETTING A CAT USED TO INJECTIONS OR HOMETESTING
Many cats are fine from the outset with insulin injections and/or hometesting. Establishing a routine, and the use of rewards, can help a lot. Many people will just give the cat her insulin injection while she's eating a meal, for example, and all is fine.
But for some sensitive cats it can be helpful to deliberately build positive associations to make the process easier and more comfortable, even 'pleasurable'...
For cats who enjoy food or treats it's possible to use the pleasure association of food to make the injections easier. This really good little video shows the principles of 'desensitisation and counter-conditioning':
 
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@Elizabeth and Bertie

Eliz, now that things with Murinka have calmed down a bit, I continue to do my research as far as food is concerned. Your list is super great, unfortunately the composition of the same product sold in my country slightly differs and some time even more than slightly.
I am still testing what she likes to eat, I have to find more sorts of food because she can get easily bored with just one type ...

Would you be please so nice and let me know what formula did you use to calculate your list? I googled something but sometimes I get the same result and sometimes not. I think I will have to build up my own list specific for the Czech republic which Im of course willing to share if someone else from this part of the country appears here:)
This great tool http://scheyderweb.com/cats/catfood.html often gives N/A values :(
The formula I somehow figured out but not sure is correct: 100 - (%protein+fat+fiber+moisture+ash) = %carb but I want to now % calories from carb. I found somewhere that 1g of carbs means cca 4 cal. My question is: analytic analysis refers to what quantity of food? If I read analytic analysis on the etiquette, it means analytic analysis of 100 g or does it refer to the actual weight of the pouch (sometimes 85g ..) Maybe it's crystal clear but I simply can't figure it out:confused:.

Thank you!
Helena
 
Hi Helena @Helena & Murinka ,

The formula I use calculates the 'percentage of calories that come from carbohydrates'. That's the comparison figure we usually use here.
It is a similar formula to the online Scheyderweb calculator, but also has a tiny extra calculation at the end.

The formula is this
First add up the food %'s for protein, fat, fibre, ash and moisture. And deduct that from 100%. That will give you the percentage of carbs by weight.

Then you calculate the calories:
Protein x 3.5 = ?
Fat x 8.5 = ?
Carb x 3.5 = ?
And add up those results. That gives the 'total calories per 100g' of food.

Finally, to get the 'percentage of calories from carbs' you do this.
Divide the 'number of calories from carbs per 100g' by the 'total calories per 100g', and then multiply by 100. That figure should be the 'percentage of calories from carbs.

I do have a rather ancient Excel spreadsheet that does my calculations for me. And I will gladly email it to you. Just PM me your email address if you'd like it. :)

(Alternatively, you can use the Scheyderweb online calculator to get the nutrient values per 100g of food, and then just do the last calculation above.)

Oh, do aware that sometimes the food labelling is wonky. If protein, fat, ash, fibre and moisture add up to more than 100% the calculation won't work...

Helena, which foods are labelled differently to the UK foods? Maybe the formula has just been updated and I need to update that on my list...

Eliz
 
Hi Helena @Helena & Murinka ,

Helena, which foods are labelled differently to the UK foods? Maybe the formula has just been updated and I need to update that on my list...

Eliz

Eliz, thanks a lot, it would be great to have your excel sheet, I will PM you.

Re the different composition, I checked once again (MAC's pouches concretely) and it looks like I was mistaken, the composition looks the same but the problem is that often the food has different names here and it's difficult to find out whether it is actually really the same.
 
This is such a great resource. I was trying to find out what to feed Herman, my bengal cat, who has a super-complex medical history. He is on prozinc twice a day (I also check his sugars twice a day). I have been feeding him Hills m/d, but I think my vet will promote products they stock in-house, so was trying to find alternatives.
 
Just for your info there is a company called Bitiba.co.uk that although seem to be under the same umbrella as Zooplus, are selling their pet supplies at a slightly less cost ..... the only difference seems to be that their minimum order is £39 and not £29 as is the case with Zooplus. Delivery was just as prompt.
 
Hi Helena @Helena & Murinka ,

Helena, which foods are labelled differently to the UK foods? Maybe the formula has just been updated and I need to update that on my list...

Eliz

Eliz, I come back to my impression that the composition of some food may vary from country to country.

I found that Sheba Fine Flakes might have a bit different composition in countries like Germany, Austria or Czech republic where it's called Delicatesse in Gelee, than in UK.
Well Im not 100% sure that it's the same product but I believe so.
Here's the link to the UK site https://www.uk.sheba.com/products/favourites/fines-flakes-in-jelly-poultry-collection-12x85g-pouch
Here's the link to the German site of the product https://www.sheba.de/produkte/genus...gelee-geflugel-variation-8x85g-portionsbeutel

And unfortunately according to the UK site, it looks that they changed a bit the composition in comparison to your list as well :(
Why manufacturers just can't stick to their composition?!
 
I found that Sheba Fine Flakes might have a bit different composition...
Hi Helena,
Thanks for that info. :)

Why manufacturers just can't stick to their composition?!
Yes, that would make life a lot easier for us!
Mogs @Critter Mom sent me a message to say that the UK formula has changed. So I need to look into that and update the info on the UK list. Will try to do that today if possible.... :bighug:

Eliz
 
Bit of a heads up, Lily's Kitchen refreshed their whole cat range in September. WARNING: they haven't flushed through the supply chain yet!

It seems that carbs have come down across the board (please do not take my advice here - but my amateur sleuthing based on the website figures suggest that even the non-organic range now fits the bill except Lamb?) and the big tins have been discontinued.

Edit: marketing release - http://www.lilyskitchen.co.uk/compl...e=Facebook&utm_medium=Sophie&utm_campaign=Cat

Edit x2: I wonder if one can tell by the new heart-shaped packaging?
 
Bit of a heads up, Lily's Kitchen refreshed their whole cat range in September. WARNING: they haven't flushed through the supply chain yet!
Thank you for this info! :bighug:
And yes, things seem to be in a state of flux with LK at the moment (I'll rather miss those large tins....:rolleyes:)... Will update the list with the new foods shortly (and also update/add some other foods too....) x
.
 
Just had a delivery - Organic Chicken Dinner (changed recipe by the looks of it).

Coming out at 0% carbs. Protein - 9.5%, Fat 6%, Ash 2.2%, Fibres 0.3%, Moisture 82%.

Not sure much change in terms of the ingredients - it's still chicken 30%, Pork 12%, Beef 10%, Fish 4%, Carrots and Minerals.

Oh here's a big change - 85g trays now instead of 100g!
 
Thanks Critter Mom - didn't realise that. It's an absolute minefield!
And then some. I bitterly regret taking vets' word for what was good to feed my little ones instead of educating myself about cat nutrition. When one starts looking at what goes into some foods it makes one's heart sink (and many Rx foods are some of the worst offenders).


Mogs
.
 
Great info about foods.
I still make my own and somehow resist commercial food for Rocky. After doing it for so long I find it easy although I have to admit that it requires a lot of planning.
So I buy mince turkey thigh (it is the cheapest meat), sometimes lamb or beef and often we have wild meat, add to it specially prepared egg shell powder and a tiny bit of apple cider vinegar which helps with absorption of calcium, add taurine supplement, vitamin B complex, various oils or fats, egg yolk, some herbs and a little bit of psyllium husk powder. In addition to that I give Rocky fresh offal like kidney, liver and heart (from wild rabbit and pheasant etc) often as I freeze small portions. I make a batch for a week, freeze daily portions and make little portions in the ice cube tray and freeze them to be used as feed at night dispensed frozen in an automated feeder so by the time he needs to eat his midnight meal it is defrosted but not spoiled.
Somehow in my head I have the idea that raw food is best. Of course sometimes I worry about bacteria contamination. But if we consider what they eat in the wild - there is more bacteria there, many times I found just a remain of a mouse or bird with the rest being consumed by Rocky.
I remember my discussion with the vet about cat's diet - she insisted that I feed him dry diabetic so I asked her to show me the ingredients. I told her that wheat, corn, soy and vegetable protein has no place in cat's diet and firmly refused to buy prescription food. She kept saying she had good results with that food! Over my body, I want best for Rocky.
If somebody does make their own food could you please share your ideas.

Marlena:cat:
 
I tried to switch my two to raw food but they were having none of it! I think if I have any kittens in the future I will have them on raw.

Nearly got caught out buying treats today - was going to buy the Festive treats by Lily's kitchen. Looking at ingredients is now becoming second nature. Was very surprised that potato was listed as the highest ingredient! They went back on the shelf.

Sky doesn't really like treats but I want to give her something to act as a reward for when she has her bloods taken - she really doesn't like it (not helped by the fact that she isn't bleeding easily so has to be done multiple times).
 
I think I'm incredibly lucky with Rocky when it comes to food. He eats absolutely everything and never refused any food so switching him to raw was no problem at all! But I do hear about difficulties others have and there are cats which are finicky eaters - very difficult.
For treats I often use cooked shrimps! They are quite convenient because you keep them in the freezer and take one or two when needed, you can run one under tap hot water and you have a treat! Cooked chicken is good too (you can also keep small pieces frozen and take one when needed) or Nature's Menu has good treats but they are a bit smelly.
With regards to blood testing I find the only way I can get blood from Rocky is to use a small plastic bottle filled with very warm water and massage his ear with it for about a minute. My vet just lance without warming the ear but then she has to squeeze the ear to get some blood but when I try this Rocky is not happy.
 
Thank you for this information and links! My cat has always been on dry food (she has hypoallergenic food) and I didn't know about cats having a low thirst drive. I'm going to ask the vet next time I go about possibly swapping to another food.
 
I tried to switch my two to raw food but they were having none of it! I think if I have any kittens in the future I will have them on raw.

Nearly got caught out buying treats today - was going to buy the Festive treats by Lily's kitchen. Looking at ingredients is now becoming second nature. Was very surprised that potato was listed as the highest ingredient! They went back on the shelf.

Sky doesn't really like treats but I want to give her something to act as a reward for when she has her bloods taken - she really doesn't like it (not helped by the fact that she isn't bleeding easily so has to be done multiple times).

Hello,

I have to prick my cat a few times also before enough blood comes out to take the test. I don't know if she'll like treats but I've always been under the impression she can't have them (before being diabetic) as she has food and skin allergies. She does love being brushed though, so today I started brushing her just after I'd taken a glucose sample. I'm hoping this will help with her. Would this be something that may help with your cat Sky if she doesn't respond to the treats?
 
Thank you so much for all that work you`ve done ! I`ve had so much trouble getting my cat to eat the "regular" diabetic food/pate/dietary food. He`s been on a diet for about 9 months now and the carb details aren`t explained on the boxes nor packs. Or at least not so I can translate them. Now he will be able to get some tasty food and, hopefully, I will be able to get his weight down. I`ve had so much trouble finding out the details and info you have provided! Thank you again!
 
Maybe this is useful. Since HappyKitty closed down, I've found another website where you can order MAC's heart and liver + lamb and turkey. The latter is the favourite with my cat. Zooplus has other MAC flavours but not these ones. Also, the price on this website is better than it was on HappyKitty and Zooplus. https://www.zoo-bio.co.uk/
Thanks for that suggestion, Iryna. :bighug:
Looks like Zoo-bio have quite a few foods that aren't available on Zooplus. Will start doing some carb calculations and see if there are other foods that we can add to the list.

Eliz x
 
@Elizabeth and Bertie @Jill & Alex (GA) Could this information be made into a sticky so that the information could be found more easily? It would be so helpful to refer new members from the UK to all this, and also to inform present UK members of resources they may not be aware of.
More stickys aren't going to happen. Robert prefers us to add info to existing stickys or add as articles in the Health Links/FAQ section of the message board.

That said, this same info has been available since 2015 in the INDEX: Health Links/FAQs ----> scroll down to the "Food/Feeding" section ----> UK Diabetic Cat Food (includes some supplies) and UK Cat Food List.

However, in an effort to make it more visible, I could add add a section for country-specific information to the INDEX: Health Links/FAQs and then rename and link the UK Diabetic Cat Food List to something like "UK Diabetic Food List, Insulin, and Supplies". This would allow a space for the same to be done for other countries if someone wants to tackle the project.

What do you think? Or do you have a better idea?
 
More stickys aren't going to happen. Robert prefers us to add info to existing stickys or add as articles in the Health Links/FAQ section of the message board.

That said, this same info has been available since 2015 in the INDEX: Health Links/FAQs ----> scroll down to the "Food/Feeding" section ----> UK Diabetic Cat Food (includes some supplies) and UK Cat Food List.

However, in an effort to make it more visible, I could add add a section for country-specific information to the INDEX: Health Links/FAQs and then rename and link the UK Diabetic Cat Food List to something like "UK Diabetic Food List, Insulin, and Supplies". This would allow a space for the same to be done for other countries if someone wants to tackle the project.

What do you think? Or do you have a better idea?
Thanks very much for the response, Jill. I don't have a better idea, and I guess I missed or forgot about the UK section in the FAQs, sorry about that. I do think that it might be helpful if you did change the name from UK Diabetic Cat Food List to UK Diabetic Food List, Insulin, and Supplies, since it provides more info than food. That is an excellent idea. Then, as you said, it would allow space for other countries, if/when a similar project went forward.
There is so much wonderful information here on the board, sometimes I really have to look to see where I read that information. I probably need to just pretend I am brand new again and start over, then do it again and again.
 
There is so much wonderful information here on the board, sometimes I really have to look to see where I read that information.
Finding info has been a problem which is why I made a rough working copy of an Index in the Health Links/FAQs Forum. I thought it might help members find general info. It still needs a lot of work. Hoping to fine tune it this Fall.
 
Finding info has been a problem which is why I made a rough working copy of an Index in the Health Links/FAQs Forum. I thought it might help members find general info. It still needs a lot of work. Hoping to fine tune it this Fall.
Just a thought a lot of the info is useful for other eurEuroE members, I get stocks from UK as I've not been able to find them here in Spain. I direct our European members to relevant sites when I see them having trouble getting hold of stuff, they don't often think to look under the UK list. Perhaps there could be some way of highlighting that the info found here may also be useful to them?
 
Hi Helena @Helena & Murinka ,

The formula I use calculates the 'percentage of calories that come from carbohydrates'. That's the comparison figure we usually use here.
It is a similar formula to the online Scheyderweb calculator, but also has a tiny extra calculation at the end.

The formula is this
First add up the food %'s for protein, fat, fibre, ash and moisture. And deduct that from 100%. That will give you the percentage of carbs by weight.

Then you calculate the calories:
Protein x 3.5 = ?
Fat x 8.5 = ?
Carb x 3.5 = ?
And add up those results. That gives the 'total calories per 100g' of food.

Finally, to get the 'percentage of calories from carbs' you do this.
Divide the 'number of calories from carbs per 100g' by the 'total calories per 100g', and then multiply by 100. That figure should be the 'percentage of calories from carbs.

...

Eliz

Thanks so much for this information, we had our SS calculating the Wet and Dry carb % as per the Scheyderweb calculator, but hadn't realised the need to then apply those multipliers to the values and do the rest of the calculations!
All fixed up now, and quite surprised / shocked by the results of the food that we have been feeding our Dusty!
 
Hi all, we are new to the FDMB, and being from the UK thought we'd drop in to say hi :)

We would like to get Dusty some B12 to help with her hind-leg weakness (suspect caused by high BG for prolonged period), and wondered where other UK folks sourced it?
She's had one shot at the vets (at my request) but we don't really want to be taking her there every time for it, and we would be happy to do it at home (after all, we're already having to do insulin anyway!)
Thanks!
 
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We would like to get Dusty some B12 to help with her hind-leg weakness (suspect caused by high BG for prolonged period), and wondered where other UK folks sourced it?
Thanks for that question, Schmill (which I think has since been answered in another thread?). Because of your question I've now added some info on B12 to the first post in this thread to make it easier for other UK folks to find.
 
Hi.
Just a question about human glucose monitors.
My cat sox has just recently been diagnosed and have a freestyle freedom lite glucose monitor at home (had 2 readings so far one of 18.8 and 12.4 over 2days) and just wondering if this monitor is adiquade to use.
Thank you for any information you can give.
 
Hi Becki. Welcome! I’m sure your meter is fine. Just be aware that human meters will read a bit lower than a pet specific meter. Most of us use them though because pet meter test strips are way too expensive! Please come and start your own thread so we can better explain and answer any other questions you may have
 
Hey!

Our old man, who’s 14 in March, has just been diagnosed with diabetes. We’ve been given his insulin and injections, but we’ve also been given some Hills m/d dry and wet food for him.

He’s been on Lily’s Kitchen and Thrive for the past two weeks and I see they rank well on the food list for low carbs, am I okay to just continue with his current healthier and cheaper diet, as opposed to starting him on then wheat filled Hills stuff?

Any advice for a new Feline Diabetes Mum would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.
 
He’s been on Lily’s Kitchen and Thrive for the past two weeks and I see they rank well on the food list for low carbs
If there a low carb food it should be fine for you to continue with them.
My vet tried to recommend the Purina special diet from them but I feed mine the butcher's tinned food as it's around 7% carbs and started insulin in November and just had 2 weeks with out insulin and staying fine on just the food.
 
Hey!

Our old man, who’s 14 in March, has just been diagnosed with diabetes. We’ve been given his insulin and injections, but we’ve also been given some Hills m/d dry and wet food for him.

He’s been on Lily’s Kitchen and Thrive for the past two weeks and I see they rank well on the food list for low carbs, am I okay to just continue with his current healthier and cheaper diet, as opposed to starting him on then wheat filled Hills stuff?

Any advice for a new Feline Diabetes Mum would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.
Hi! You really don't need special prescription food to treat a diabetic cat, in fact shop-bought brands are often lower in carbs and therefore more appropriate. Vets are under pressure to sell prescription foods as they (probably) get a percentage of profits from the company, but Lily's Kitchen or Thrive are good bets. There are plenty of other options too, from supermarkets, pet superstores or online suppliers that you can buy from, as per the list.

So yes, I'd continue with the existing diet and ask the vet to take the Hill's back for a refund. Good decision!
 
Our old man, who’s 14 in March, has just been diagnosed with diabetes. We’ve been given his insulin and injections, but we’ve also been given some Hills m/d dry and wet food for him.

He’s been on Lily’s Kitchen and Thrive for the past two weeks and I see they rank well on the food list for low carbs, am I okay to just continue with his current healthier and cheaper diet, as opposed to starting him on then wheat filled Hills stuff?

Any advice for a new Feline Diabetes Mum would be greatly appreciated!
Hi, are you testing your kitty's blood glucose at home? For a kitty already on insulin it's really important to only switch to lower carb diet if you are hometesting, can monitor the effect of the diet change on the kitty's blood glucose, and can reduce the insulin as necessary.
Reducing the carb content in the diet can reduce the blood glucose a lot in some kitties, and the insulin dose may need to be reduced also so as to avoid hypoglycemia. For a cat switching from dry food to low carb wet food the insulin dose may need to be reduced by one to two units, or even more...

If you've switched from Hill's MD to Lily's and Thrive since starting insulin, that's quite a BIG reduction in carb content.... Please do keep a close eye on your kitty. And please, if you're not already doing so, do try to learn to hometest his blood glucose at home. It's really not nearly as hard as it sounds and we can help you learn to do it. Just post on the main health forum if you'd like more info. We're here to help. :bighug:

Eliz
 
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