I always remove her food 2 hours before the next BG reading.
I'm still not clear on what you mean. Are you saying that yesterday - when you were testing her BGs every 3 hours for that curve - that she would have access to food in the first hour, then you'd pick it up for the next 2 hours, then test BG at the 3rd hour, and then put food down again after each BG test?
The reason that we like to use spreadsheets here - and plug in the blood glucose #s we record each day - is so that we can see the individual cat's patterns emerge. (Every cat is different!

) This helps us (along with knowing what they eat, when they eat, and how much) in understanding how well the insulin is working for that diabetic cat.
Doing a full curve every now and then can certainly provide useful information, but it really pays to consistently test blood glucose levels at home daily if you can manage it. That's because the blood glucose is not static: It changes - from day-to-day and hour-to-hour. And the amounts of food, the type, and when it is fed really plays a key role in achieving an effective balance between insulin and glucose in the diabetic cat.
This is just one of the reasons we feel it's so important to test before every shot of insulin - because a cat's need for insulin can change, and it's important not to give a cat more (or less) insulin than that she needs. And learning when your cat's blood glucose hits its nadir (the lowest point) in each 12-hour cycle is important day-to-day, too - this #, along with the AM preshot & PM preshot #s, helps guide us in adjusting the dose, to help keep the kitty safe from hypoglcemia as well as to help get too-high blood glucose numbers down to a more reasonable level overall.
- Do you measure Chicket's food every time you put the dish down for her?
- If so, how much would you say she eat per day (the total, every 24 hrs), in ounces (or cups?)
Questions:Can Chicklet just be very hard to regulate? Are any cats regulated if they continue eating dry food. At what point should I consider trying another insulin?
As a general rule, it
is much harder to get a kitty regulated on dry kibble: Almost all dry foods - with rare exceptions - are far too high in carbohydrate content for a diabetic cat. That's why canned foods that are under 10% carbs are recommended for diabetics. And for some cats (mine is one of them) even 10% carbohydrate in the food is too much.

Luckily, there are plenty of brands that are anywhere from 3% to 4% carbs. You might be amazed at the difference in need for insulin once you can gradually reduce the amount of carbohydrate she's getting. (This needs to happen slowly, monitoring blood glucose, in case the dose of insulin needs to be reduced.)
Unfortunately, the prescription DM dry @ 18% carbs,
will make it harder to get your cat regulated on
any type of insulin. We've found it to have been a pretty common experience (among our membership) to have a veterinarian recommend expensive prescription diets that are higher in carbs than a diabetic cat should be consuming. It's important to note here that most veterinarians get very minimal training about feline diabetes in veterinary school. (Sad, but true!) Many vets are not nearly as well-educated as they should be about the latest "best practices" in treating diabetes in cats. Dr, Lisa Pierson's website catinfo.org contains a wealth of information about diabetes in cats, including a great chart of good commercial food choices for diabetic kitties.
I'd say it's a little early, at this point, to determine whether or not the ProZinc is working for Chicklet. Perhaps you should try to work on getting your kitty's daily rations in line with what she needs for whatever her healthy-weight goal is before giving up on the ProZinc just yet ...
Hope some of this info I've offered here is useful.
