Tuxedo Cat: Switch to Hill's w/d and Glargine?

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bmmg39

Member Since 2023
Hello,

I am a new poster here. I have been perusing these boards ever since the family's cat, a long-haired tuxedo cat, was diagnosed with high glucose back in June 2022. He would probably be classified as a senior cat, but one who has remained relatively healthy over the years, in spite of a few scares (a urinary-blockage situation after he first came to us, and hyperthyroidism about eight years ago, for which he takes methimazole). The last few years, he was 14 to 15 pounds, but began losing weight in June, and was urinating outside the box. Just about everything on his blood panel came up normal; one big exception was his blood-sugar level, which was rather high (it had been fine about four months earlier). He was put on Humulin N (I believe the pharmacy gave us Novolin N), at the base dose of two units twice a day, administered either by me or my father (the cat lives with my parents and I am about ten minutes away).

There were some hiccups along the way, including during the first week, when I was there alone with him, and he was acting a bit "chill," but I was afraid to leave, worrying that maybe he was going "hypo," and then I had just given him his nighttime dose. This turned out to be unfounded, but out of precaution we paused on the insulin for a few days, and then started him up again at a lower dose, 1U twice a day. Then 2U, then 3U, then 4U... his spot checks in the vet's office would fluctuate, sometimes "HI" (off the chart), sometimes much better (171). His fructosamine test in September, after he had been at 4U twice daily for about six weeks, was 559. We were told we were managing his diabetes, but he's "not quite there yet." He was at 5U twice daily for about seven weeks; the November fructosamine test was much more encouraging, at 451 (fair control). He was bumped up to 6U twice daily for about a month -- but then one day in early December he wasn't acting right, was rushed to an emergency facility, and he was found to have a glucose level of just 34 or 35. Apparently, he hadn't eaten enough that morning before his dose. For the next few days and weeks after that emergency, he was brought down to 3U twice daily out of precaution, and gradually brought back up to 5U twice daily...but the number from the fructosamine test two weeks ago was 668. I had been hoping it would be within the 450 to 500 range, or, if not as good, at perhaps slightly over 500. I wasn't expecting such a high number.

Our veterinarian, who has taken over our cat's case (and who has come across to me as caring and diligent -- spoke to me on the phone yesterday for almost a half-hour), has recommended that we switch our cat from Hill's c/d (which is for cats with a history of urinary crystals) to Hill's w/d, and that we try Glargine instead of the insulin he's on now. We're not sure which of these changes we'd bring about first, or if we would implement them simultaneously.

I was told that the Hill's w/d (appropriate for diabetic cats with a history of urinary crystals) addresses a cat's glucose level. Most mentions of Hill's w/d seem to state that it helps cats who are overweight (related to the diabetes) to lose weight. Diabetes can cause a cat (or person, etc.) to gain weight, but it can also cause someone to lose weight. If Hill's w/d lowers the weight of overweight cats by lowering their glucose level, that would be fine, as that could help an underweight cat, as well, but I want to make sure it doesn't simply have a "SlimFast" effect. (You wouldn't give SlimFast or something like it to a person who is already thin...) We want to lower his glucose level, but we (my family and our vet) obviously don't want our cat's weight loss to be sped up. (We want it reversed, in fact.) Does anyone have any experience with Hill's w/d, and would you say it's a good fit for diabetic cats who are already underweight?

I'm also not sure if the timing is the problem, as before his hypo event we were trying to adhere more to the 12-hour intervals than time the shots with his meals. Since then, we have been extra careful to wait until we're certain he's had enough wet food (he has both wet and dry) before administering the shot, afraid of another possible "hypo" event. This means that he often begins the bulk of his "meal" an hour or two before getting the shot. Do people think that is throwing his numbers out of whack? And is Glargine generally a better fit for cats who are used to "grazing"?

Thank you in advance for all of your help.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum.
First of all Novolin N insulin is not a suitable insulin for cats at all. It is a harsh, fast acting insulin which drops the blood glucose quickly and does not last the 12 hours that is necessary for a cat. It is not recommended by the American Animal Hospital Association.
When you use Novolin insulin you need to feed your kitty 1 hour before the dose so that the food has had time to get into the system so that when the insulin hits there is something there to stop the dose dropping the BG too low.
Glargine is a much better insulin for cats. It is longer lasting and more gentle. I would definitely swap to glaring as soon as possible.
As far as the dose goes, we would need to see any blood glucose (BG) data you might have.
I would not start back at 1 unit (as the vet may suggest) when you do the swap over, but I’m not sure I would give the dose you are currently giving.

Does anyone have any experience with Hill's c/d, and would you say it's a good fit for diabetic cats who are already underweight?
Hills c/d prescription food is a very high carb food and is totally unsuitable for diabetic cats.
The best food for a cat who has had urinary blockages is wet food either canned or a raw/cooked diet. It has around 78% moisture in it whereas dry food has 7% moisture. Cats with urinary issues need lots of fluids. Even if the Hills c/d is the canned variety it is still very high carb and totally unsuitable for a diabetic cat. C/d dry food is 43% carbs and the canned food is 29.6%carbs.
Diabetic cats need food that is 10% carbs or less. Most of us feed around 4-7% carbs.
Almost all of the prescription foods are too high in carbs and that includes the canned and the diabetic varieties.
There are plenty of canned foods you can use that can be bought at the supermarket of pet stores.
Here is a link to suitable foods. Look for carbs 10% or less
FOOD CHART

The reason he could be losing weight is because he is not regulated. Cats that are not regulated cannot absorb all the nutrients in the food.
If I were you I would get the change to glargine first. You only want to do one thing at a time.
What food are you feeding at the moment?
How often are you feeding your kitty? We recommend you feed a good meal before the insulin and then 2 or 3 snacks during each cycle. If your kitty is underweight those snacks will help him. A snack is a teaspoon or two of food.
If you are not feeding a low carb diet, do not change it yet to a low carb diet, as the change over could drop the BGs a lot.

What I would suggest you do is consider starting to home test the BGs. You will then know exactly what is happening every day and you will he able to keep your kitty safe. I will link how to do how testing below. It is not hard, just a matter of both you and your kitty getting used to it. We always give a treat when testing and have always found that our kitties look forward to testing as they love their treats.

I would also make sure you have a hypo kit set up as you never know when you might need it, although if you are home testing, it is less likely to happen as you can intervene to stop it happening.

HELP US HELP YOU has links to the spreadsheet which we can talk about next time …that is where you put all your BGs data into when you hometest and that is what we look at when we help you. You can see people’s spreadsheets if you look at the bottom of their posts.
Also there is their signature which tells us all about your kitty so we don’t have to ask you every time about him. Helpers always look at the signature and the SS.
In the same link you can see the link to the hypo kit which I would get set up asap.

HOME TESTING HINTS AND LINKS
Lots of great information in the links within this link.
We recommend using a human meter such as the ReliOn premier meter which can be bought from Walmart for $9 and a box of test strips for $17.88 You will also need a box of lancets size 26 or 28 and some cotton balls to hold behind the ear when testing. Don’t let anyone talk you into a pet meter. They are not necessary..a human meter is absolutely fine and our dosing methods are based on the human meter numbers A pet meter is very very expensive to run..ie the test strips are very expensive.

I’ve given you a lot of information here. I don’t want to overwhelm you. But please ask any questions you need to . We are very happy to help and we have a lot more here we can tell you and teach you have to manage your dear little kitty a lot better.
Bron
 
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Are you talking about Hills w/d wet or dry food? Their wet food is 25% carbs and the dry food would be worse. Diabetic cats shouldn't eat foods more than 10% carbs on a regular basis. The feline nutrition website Catinfo has a page specifically about urinary issues. Low carb and lower phosphorus food with plenty of water added can help, both the urinary issues and the diabetes. There are commercial wet food products that are suitable for both conditions.

However, do not switch to a lower carb food unless you are also home testing your kitty's blood sugars. Switching to a better/lower carb diet can greatly reduce his insulin needs and cause possible hypos if you aren't monitoring regularly for blood sugar changes.
 
Thank you to everyone who responded so promptly, and I apologize for "disappearing" right after making my post. I have been studying some relevant information, including that which was kindly provided by you. The cat has been acting fine, from the times when I see him and the reports I get from my parents (as I do not live there). Also, I try to take time with my responses, to be as precise and concise as possible. I will address some of the questions here.

"When you use Novolin insulin you need to feed your kitty 1 hour before the dose so that the food has had time to get into the system so that when the insulin hits there is something there to stop the dose dropping the BG too low. Glargine is a much better insulin for cats. It is longer lasting and more gentle. I would definitely swap to glaring as soon as possible.
As far as the dose goes, we would need to see any blood glucose (BG) data you might have.
I would not start back at 1 unit (as the vet may suggest) when you do the swap over, but I’m not sure I would give the dose you are currently giving.
"

If I am reading this correctly, you are saying that there SHOULD be a window of about an hour between the bulk of the food eaten and the Novolin shot. That's probably what we've been doing, for the most part; of late, I've tried to have the food and the shot coincide more closely (on those days or nights when I'm the one doing the shot). This is a cat who's never eaten a huge meal only to fast for eleven hours and forty-five minutes; he's accustomed to grazing, throughout the day/night. We're continuing to discuss the possible change(s), and right now, we're "with you" in that we might change the insulin but keep the food the same. I'm a math teacher, and, as you know, scientists change one variable at a time to test its effect, rather than change multiple things simultaneously. I was told that with a switch we would start at the minimum dosage and then test in about two weeks to see if it should be raised. I understand why we'd begin low, though I am worried about his potentially losing more weight in the interim...

Early on, I asked if the vet office ever uses other types of insulin, and the vet tech or other employee said that this (Humulin/Novolin) is pretty much the one they use, but the vet did seem receptive to my question last month (BEFORE the fructosamine test) about other types.

I tried an insulin lancet on his ear some months ago, but it would not work. Later, I tried on the paws, but also got nothing. While I don't take insulin, I do have high glucose and use a glucometer on myself. That's a lot easier than trying to get blood from the cat. After his emergency in December, he was fitted for a Libre monitor, which had my mother anxious, because it would be beeping for a low reading, worrying her (us), and my parents would keep texting me screenshots of the display, so I have sporadic data from those eight days or so, until the thing stopped working and the replacement didn't attach correctly. I agree that being able to home-test would help us narrow in on the correct treatment regimen more quickly.

"Diabetic cats need food that is 10% carbs or less. Most of us feed around 4-7% carbs.
Almost all of the prescription foods are too high in carbs and that includes the canned and the diabetic varieties.
There are plenty of canned foods you can use that can be bought at the supermarket of pet stores.
Here is a link to suitable foods. Look for carbs 10% or less

FOOD CHART"

I forgot to mention...after he was put on Hill's c/d (dry and wet, ate mostly dry at the time) after the blockage emergency, he ate that for a few years, but stopped eating during his hyperthyroid ordeal. The vet office recommended Purina Ur (dry and wet), instead, and the cat took to that right away. Since that time, he'd occasionally get tired of one brand, and we'd switch back to the other one...but since eating wet food as a more significant and perhaps majority percentage of his diet he's had both Hill's c/d and Purina Ur. (I notice that Purina has a lower carb % on the chart you've provided, though he does seem to enjoy the Hill's c/d more at the moment.)

"
I would also make sure you have a hypo kit set up as you never know when you might need it, although if you are home testing, it is less likely to happen as you can intervene to stop it happening."

They have a bottle of Karo syrup at the ready, in case of another hypo emergency. My parents acted quickly that day in December when he wasn't acting right, and I am grateful and proud of them for that...

Thank you all for your help and concern for us total strangers...
 
Novolin is an insulin with a very quick onset -- it kicks in hard and fast. This is why you want to make sure your kitty has eaten well in advance of giving an injection. It's fine if your cat grazes. Chances are that if his blood glucose (BG) is dropping, he'll look for food. If you are able to switch to a different insulin, such as Lantus (glargine), it has a much slower onset and doesn't drop numbers as fast as Novolin. (With Lantus, most of us will test, feed, and shoot all within the span of a few minutes.)

Aside from the amount of carbohydrates, the other issue with the prescription foods are the ingredients. Despite their being quite pricey, the do not contain premium ingredients. I don't recall if we sent you just the chart or the link to the feline nutrition website. There's a section on urinary tract issues including crystals. The vet who wrote the site is not a fan of prescription foods. Her recommendation is that you add water to your cat's food. Given water as a solution to the crystals, you have a lot of options for food.
 
Siennce and Gabby (GA): "I don't recall if we sent you just the chart or the link to the feline nutrition website."

To answer your question, a poster named Bron and Sheba (GA) posted the hyperlink for the FOOD CHART. Are you colleagues or veterinarians? (Pardon my ignorance here, and thank you for all of your help.)

Is the timing of the insulin shots with when the cat eats less crucial with Glargine than with Novolin N?

Thanks.
bg
 
Hi...we are colleagues here on the forum.
Glargine is a longer acting, more gentle insulin so with Glargine you can test/feed and shoot one after the other. There is no need to wait any time before giving the insulin. This is because the onset of Glargine is about 2 hours whereas the onset for Novolin N is soon after the dose.
With Glargine as long as you know your kitty will eat the food, it is OK if he doesn't eat it all at once but comes back and eats it over the next two hours before the onset of the insulin. Does that make sense?
If you are able to swap over to Glargine, it sounds as if it would suit your kitty better with the way he like to eat his food.
Keep asking questions, we are very happy to answer them all.:)
 
Thank you for your help.

My father is home right now, and our cat wasn't eating a whole lot when I stopped over this morning, and hasn't eaten much since then, and so my father gave him a lower dose this morning...but the cat still seems uninterested in eating. Do people ever give the small amount of Karo syrup in case a cat isn't eating much? (There are no signs of hypoglycemia right now, but it was about four hours since the Novolin shot, so this is when the nadir would happen.)
 
Hi, new member. I just recently joined as well, and find this group so helpful that I recommended it to my Vet. Their point about doing home testing is so right on. When first starting, I had some trouble getting blood, and I am in healthcare! Keep at it, even if it means multiple sticks at first. Within a short time, the ear location bled more easily and consistently so that I am now buying thinner lancets. The cat is fine with it usually, unless it is a day for a long BG curve then he gets bored with the regimen. Treats are mandatory!
RE giving Karo proactively… glucose is absorbed quite rapidly but the action is not sustained, so it is designated for emergencies. This site has info on feeding higher carbohydrate food instead which would be a better precaution.
But the key is to be able to test at home so you have immediate answers when needed. Then you will know what the BG is and how it is changing.
 
Thank you. Yes, I got a glucometer for him shortly after he was diagnosed (I use a different one for myself), but gave up at the time after trying on his ears and paws. I just got it out again tonight, and the same thing.

He's been eating Purina UR wet food the last three weeks or so, rather than the Hill's c/d. (He's gone back and forth between the two over the years, but had been eating mostly the Hill's since November or so.) For a few days, he was having about one whole can per day, which is good because then he'll eat less dry food. I want to have him on the Purina UR for a while before his next fructosamine test, and, if there isn't a good change, then our next move will probably be the insulin switch. I may also ask our vet if there are any food additives that can help a cat (with diabetes, hyperthyroidism, and a past with urinary crystals) to gain weight. Has anyone had experience with such a thing? Thanks.
 
Thank you so much for the link to the information about the carbohydrate content of various types of wet food. Our cat, I see from invoices from the vet, had been eating the Hill's c/d (as far as wet food goes) from December up to about April. Around the beginning of April, our cat went back to Purina UR, which has about half the carbs. I notified the vet that (as I wrote above) I hoped to bring him in for the next fructosamine test after a few weeks of having switched to the Purina. He still grazes on dry food, but I think he's eating less and less of that.

He had his test on June 6 or so, and, while the number is still in the "poor control" range, it's significantly improved to 535 (from 668 in February). The phone message from one of the vets said that we could bump up just his morning dose (of Novolin N) by one unit, and see what that does to the fructosamine number. He also heard that I had suggested to his vet partner about possibly switching insulins, and that they do have some cats on Glargine at the moment, and that it's the ideal insulin for cats. (A year ago, someone in that office told me that Novolin is "pretty much" the type they use.)

Another new suggestion was the possibility of employing the help of specialists/internists, who may make some of the same recommendations about regimen changes. Have people here found good results with specialists?

If we do change insulins, our main concern is that our cat will lose weight more rapidly while on the minimum dose. He lost weight rapidly a year ago in the first few weeks he was on Novolin, as the dosage was increased every couple of weeks or so (not 100% positive which wet food he was mostly eating then, but I do go back and see a few invoices for the Hill's c/d). What will a specialist do to ensure that a similar rapid decrease won’t occur? He can’t really afford one like that right now. His weight in February was 9.1 and it was 7.9 in early June – but in between was the switch back to Purina UR, so we don’t know if it was a steady decrease over the four months OR if it was a decrease in the first two months while he was still eating Hill’s c/d wet food with more carbs, and then the weight loss leveled out.

I tried doing a “subtraction weight” on a bathroom scale at the beginning of this month, and his weight seemed much the same. His appetite seemed to increase recently and I weighed him early this week, and it seemed like he had lost another pound, but later weighings this week show something in between the two scenarios. (The subtraction weighings are all over the place, typically. In February, I got a subtraction of 7.6 pounds, minutes before I took him to the vet, where he was weighed at 7.9 pounds. I got a subtraction of 7.6 pounds yesterday, so who knows…)

He’ll have a blood panel coming up in a few days. His last one, at the emergency place in December, showed nothing alarming, except for glucose-related numbers. Amylase was high, but the vet there called me a few days ago to explain that we shouldn’t worry about that, especially after seven months. It may have been due to the hypoglycemia episode. His T4 number was normal, but maybe his hyperthyroid situation is changing and we’ll need to increase his methimazole. Hyperthyroidism can explain both increased appetite and weight loss. His behavior, not including a few times he’s peed on the floor (he usually goes into the litter box on his own), has been normal, otherwise. He’s lost a few steps over the years, but who hasn’t? A few months ago, he was draining one of his water bowls; he’s drinking a fair amount of water now, but nothing like that. So there are encouraging signs; we just want him regulated and for him to regain weight. Any suggestions with that in mind?

I have finally found luck testing his blood this week, but not consistent success in getting it to work. Aside from the good advice I've already gotten on that subject, does anyone have experience at not being able to to a glucose test for a cat, and then later you tried something new and it worked?

Thank you.
 
The hard part with home testing is at the beginning or the process. At the outset, it's often hard to get blood when you poke. Trying to double or even triple poke at the same site may help. The more times you keep poking your cat's ear, the more the capillary bed will build up and it will be easier to draw a drop of blood.

I suspect the reason you're seeing high test numbers, regardless of whether it's fructosamine or blood glucose (BG), is due to the high carb food. Your kitty is on a reasonably large dose of insulin. The size of the dose is offset by the carbs in the food. However, due to the percent of carbs, it's likely that it's preventing your cat from being regulated. In addition, the fructosamine levels are likely influenced by how short-acting Novolin is. Your cat's numbers may be lower for a couple of hours and then the insulin wears off and the numbers are back in a high range. Since fructosamine is an average of blood glucose over the course of several weeks and your cat is ostensibly in high numbers a good part of that time, you're getting high test results. It's also due to the high numbers that there's a weight loss issue. Bron mentioned previously that if BG numbers are in higher ranges, the product of your cat metabolizing food (i.e., glucose) is floating around in the blood vs getting into the cells. As a result, cats lose weight. Insulin is what transports glucose into the cells.
 
The prescribed food since the first or second year we had him has been Hill's c/d and Purina UR (wet and dry for both, over the years), due to a urinary-blockage emergency we had with him. Through the guidance of good people on this site, I've seen the carb content for both brands, and saw that the Purina had about half the carbs of the Hill's c/d (12% carbs as opposed to 23% to 28% carbs, depending upon which variety of c/d), and so he's been on Purina since then. (You know how small the print is on a can of cat food.) My guess is this led to a lower fructosamine test. I know you've mentioned not using prescription food, but I was afraid to make a unilateral decision on that.

The current dosage is 6U in the morning and 5U at night (usually carried out by my dad, and the other times by me if I go over there). Before his hypo episode in December, he had been at 6U both at "breakfast" and at "dinner" for the previous four weeks, and when brought into the animal hospital his weight had increased by .3 pound (from 10.4 in November to 10.7 in December), leading us to believe we were approaching the correct dosage...but in the weeks after that he was dropped to 3U twice daily out of precaution, and then gradually raised.

The other day, I was trying to get readings from his ear and using the lancet pen that I've used for myself (just with a different meter). Word on the street is that the ear-pricking does not hurt the cats, really, that it's a nuisance at most, at first. After about a dozen times, though, I gave up for the day, as he was making his angry or "ouch" noises. Do people smear petroleum jelly on the inside of the ear first? I haven't been doing that...

Thank you.
 
My cat had black ears, it was almost impossible to see the blood on them. A very tiny smear of vaseline on the top of the ear near the poke site, helped the blood pool and not disappear into the black fur.

You may find you need a larger size lancet that what you are using for yourself, at least in the beginning. A 26 or 28 is a good starting size.
 
Our cat's ears are black on the outside and lighter on the inside. I thought I was supposed to be pricking the inside of the ear. Is that what you do? The diagrams on an image site seem to show the inside of the ear, and it's hard to tell from the videos, because the camera rarely zooms in at the crucial moment...

I use a 30-gauge for myself. I bought another box of lancets for him about a week ago. The lancets were all different colors, and I thought at the time that meant they are a variety of widths, but apparently not. Thank you for your advice.
 
Hello. I hope you are all doing well. Six months have passed since my first post here, and the last month or so since I've posted, I'm afraid, has been quite eventful. Please bear with me, as this has been a very emotional day. I'm looking for any shred of hope I can find.

Our cat, Charmer, went to see his regular vet about a month ago. His fructosamine number had again improved from 535 to 505. His weight had dropped more, to 7.2 pounds. (He was now less than half of what he'd been a year and a half ago.) The vet told me that Charmer's kidney values, once very good, were now up a little bit, so he was in the category of mild kidney failure. We were to bump up the dosage of Novolin N. I also received a list of specialists so that we could get extra help in fighting the diabetes. At the beginning of this month, I called one of these based on proximity and availability, and made an appointment for August 3. Charmer had not been eating well, and that night I showed him to family members by placing him on the floor near his food, and one of his legs buckled. This happened twice, upsetting us, and so I took him to the hospital with the internist that evening, instead. We were told that Charmer had ketoacidosis and was dehydrated. Over the two days and nights he was there, he responded well to the fluids, and was discharged on August 3. He had a UTI, and, more worrisome, an abdominal ultrasound revealed an intestinal mass near his ilium. The results revealed that it has low cellularity but appeared to be lymphocytes. The internist said that Charmer wasn't a great candidate for surgery, even though the surgeon told her that removal might be possible, given its location. We were given amoxicillin for the UTI, predisolone for the intestinal mass, and, finally, Glargine for the diabetes, plus a switch to Purina DM.

At his follow-up appointment the next week, Charmer didn't have ketoacidosis but was again dehydrated. He came home that night after more fluid therapy, and began eating well again. (BG was a little high, but not ridiculous, and his weight was the same as when he was discharged.) Kidney numbers were a little higher, but that may have been due to the dehydration. The internist raised the prospect of doing sub-Q fluids at home, but we decided to wait another week. At last week's follow-up, he wasn't dehydrated, but his BG was shown as simply "HIGH," and he had lost more weight. The internist said she wasn't sure we'd be able to get weight on him. She gave us mirtazapine to help him to eat more and to fight nausea. A fructosamine-test appointment was scheduled for September 2.

Charmer had eaten well until around Saturday evening, when his appetite decreased. By Sunday (two days ago), he wasn't eating at all, and (I was told over the phone) fell over when my dad put him in front of a food dish. We took him to a 24-hour hospital where he'd gone in December when he had the hypoglycemia episode. This time, he had ketoacidosis again, and was dehydrated, and had lost even more weight. Yesterday, I was told that his kidney values were still very high, as well as a high liver value, in spite of the fluid therapy. We transferred him to another facility that is much farther away (about a 45-minute drive) in another county, as that place has several internists and a criticalist. He stayed there last night.

Today, I spoke with a vet there, who said that Charmer still has extremely high kidney values, and still will not eat. She said they are running out of options...and, for the first time, the issue of euthanasia was raised.

I have been the "numbers person" representing the family this whole time, asking umpteen questions and writing things down. At this point today, I was just listening, and staring out into space, at a loss for words. They seemed to suggest our coming in today. I said I'd talk to my family and then call back. We'll talk to more people tomorrow...

As I'm writing, I'm worried that my tone is coming across as too breezy and casual. I'm trying to give you as much information as I can. We're all worried sick, and have never dealt with a situation like this before. (This is a first pet for my adult siblings and me, as we all live in different towns but all love our other brother, Charmer, very much.) My parents are deeply affected, and my mother, in particular, is beside herself. They'd had pets much earlier in their lives, and never had to make a decision like this. I'm generally always on the side of "rage against the dying of the light" and will want to think long and hard before making such a decision.

The vets believe that we are dealing with chronic kidney failure, not acute kidney failure, in spite of the very fast, very large increase in the kidney numbers, but I am trying to find some cause. I'd bought cat grass for Charmer last week, as a vet told me it would be okay, and he had been nibbling on that here and there. For two and a half weeks, he'd been half on the older Purina UR and half on the Purina DM (lower in carbs but higher in phosphorous). I'm even thinking now that he had a cyst on the side of his body a year and a half ago, when he as much healthier. I doubt that has anything to do with anything, but I'm grasping at straws here.

I've written all of this out of desperation, in case someone should have an idea no one has thought of yet, has had a similar experience, or can give us something -- anything -- that we might be able to latch onto here and now. Your support, guidance, and prayers are all appreciated. Thank you.
 
I'm sorry we have not got to you sooner.
And I am very sorry Charmer has had DKA again.
As far as the kidney failure is concerned, being dehydrated and having DKA will affect the values, so I would wait until he has recovered somewhat before worrying too much about that.
If he is not eating, are they giving him as antinausea medication?. giving mirtazapine, which is an appetite stimulant, is no good if he is nauseated. He needs either cerenia or ondansetron for the nausea.
Also if he is not eating, why are they not suggesting a feeding tube for him? Ask them about that.
Do they have him on an IV drip.
Have they told you what his electrolytes are doing? Have they improved? Ask them about that as well.
I would not consider euthanasia at this point. Vets are too ready to suggest that in my experience.
Once he improves and is ready to come home, we can help you with what you have to do.
Lets get through the next few days first.
Please keep us updated. and lots of hugs
 
Thank you for your quick reply, and for the hugs.

I was told yesterday that he is now hydrated, or better hydrated, or something like that, and yet his kidney values are still sky-high. Until last month, his previous blood work had revealed BUN values near the high end of normal (around 30), and creatinine near 1.2 or 1.3. About a month ago, the BUN was 48 and the creatinine around 1.9, and his regular vet said Charmer seems to be in "mild" kidney failure, "not severe or even moderate at this point." He didn't recommend switching to a k/d diet just yet, said the diabetes was the greater concern (which sounded reasonable). His values were somewhat higher than that during the first DKA episode three weeks ago, but this week the BUN number is literally off the charts, and the creatinine number is somewhere in the fives. I didn't think chronic kidney disease progressed that rapidly, but that's what they say they think it is.

I was told that mirtazapine, in addition to stimulating the appetite, is also used to reduce nausea in cats. A few webpages about the drug say this, as well. I hadn't heard of the drug until last week. (I'm not a vet...)

I can ask about electrolytes. He has been on fluids, but I'm not sure if that's the same as an IV drip. I didn't know whether cats are ever put on feeding tubes. I have experience of another family member who was put on one in the hospital. I know all of these things are ones I should have thought of to look up before. I've been quite overwhelmed with everything...

The two vets I spoke to yesterday sounded fairly insistent that we consider euthanizing. (I've always been more opposed to the idea, in general, than I know some other people are.) One said that we could have it down out there (he's 40 or so minutes away), or at an animal hospital closer to home, or even AT home if that's what we want. They said to let them know by around six yesterday if we were going to have it done yesterday, as the vets were both leaving at that time. There's no way we were going to make a decision like that in so little time. I'm going to call other places that have treated him to give them an update and to get multiple perspectives before I speak to the people at the hospital where he is. They might be taken aback that I'm still asking more questions rather than simply telling them when we'll come in for the you-know-what, but I won't be able to live with myself if I don't ask everything that I can.

Thank you.
 
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