Newly Diagnosed - Need help soon!

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Kiwi F

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Hi. I'm Kim and my 13 yr old cat, Kiwi, was diagnosed one week ago. Our vet is now on vacation, and the instructions we were given as she was leaving contradicted what we were already told at our appointment, and we need advice. Kiwi was my first ever cat, and is my best friend. I'm currently disabled with a serious illness, and we spend 24 hrs a day together (with my boyfriend/caregiver and two other cats). I feel like I'm making some mistakes, and I want to know what is right for him. I just need to know what to do! Sorry this is long, but because its so confusing, I want to lay it out as it happened.

I brought Kiwi to the vet last Tuesday because he was drinking a lot of water, was always hungry, had recently lost weight, and didn't seem to be feeling well (nothing specific... just a feeling I had). I was told his blood sugar was high (they weren't able to give me an exact number at the time, but said it was over 400), but had no ketones. I was shown how to do insulin injections, he was switched to Hill's W/D food (which I now realize is a problem), and prescribed Lantis insulin (one unit, twice a day). At the appointment on Tuesday, I was told to immediately switch his food, and start his insulin on Thursday, to 'give the diet time to work'. We were also told to get a certain glucose meter that we weren't able to find (ended up getting a ReliOn Meter, after doing some research).

We got a call on Wed, saying his other labs were good (with one kidney level slightly elevated due to dehydration). But his BG level was a little over 600 (can't remember exact number right now). At the time of that call, my boyfriend, who was speaking directly to the vet, asked if we should wait to give insulin because 1) we were still looking for a meter, and 2) we had already noticed positive changes in Kiwi such as a huge reduction in drinking, much less begging for food (although he ate what was given), and he seemed perkier, happier, and feeling better.... so he wanted to know if it was okay to 'see what the diet could do for him'. The vet said NOT to wait... to start the insulin, or he his high BG could do damage that can't be reversed. So we got the meter and picked up his insulin (which was VERY expensive), and had everything ready to get started on Thursday.

Here's where things get really confusing: On Thursday, not long before we planned to give his first injection, we called the vet's office, like we were instructed. The vet had already left on vacation, but we were given a message: we were told that we hadn't given the diet long enough to work, and that we should wait to give the insulin, and to keep feeding him the new food. We told the vet tech that we had asked about that the day before, and were told NOT to wait... was it possible the messages were mixed up? She said she would call the vet one time and ask our questions. We asked: 1) Did she really want us to wait with the insulin, after she clearly said NOT to wait. 2) How often should we be checking his BG? The tech called us back and said that the vet verified that we hadn't given the diet enough time and should wait to give the insulin. 2) That we should not check his BG for the next two weeks. We got off the phone not knowing what to think or do. And we've been debating, agonizing, and panicking about what to do ever since.

Since we already had the meter, we started checking his BG (even though they said not to). (Since the diet change, we've been feeding him at 8am-when we planned to give his first insulin, 2pm, and 8pm-when we planned to give his second insulin dose.) On Thurs, we tested him right before his 2pm meal. It was 503. The other days we tested before his 8pm meal: Fri- 410, Sat-390, Sun-396. It seemed like the diet was working, at first. (although, is it possible that Thursday's level was higher because it was a different time of day, and his BG has only appeared to be going down??) And in the meantime, we learned about the issues with the Hill's W/D diet, and are currently trying to pick a new food for him (and thinking about changing vets). But at this point we don't know what to do about the insulin. I'm worried about his BG being that high. But, we are also wanting to change his diet (we thought it would happen yesterday, but because the food we picked wasn't available, we're hoping to switch him later today).... and we have read that we shouldn't start insulin until his diet is changed. But are we doing the right thing? How dangerous is it to leave him at a BG around 400 (before he eats... so thats not his highest level) for another week? Should we be starting the insulin now, and leave him on the Hill's food just until he stabilizes?

Can anyone advise us on how to proceed? And can anyone tell us how dangerous his current BG level is ? and how dangerous it would be to leave him that high for another week, until his vet gets back? Or until his diet is changed? Also, besides low carbs, how important is low fat and how high should protein be? Is there anything we need to be careful of (when picking a diet) because he's an older cat (13 yrs)? I'd appreciate any advice you all have. I've been reading all week, but I'm still unclear on what to do now, and if the insulin can really wait just a little longer.

Thank you for your help (and we're glad we found you),
Kim and Kiwi
 
I would find a good low carb food he really seems to like, grab enough cans to last you a while, and do at least a single cycle curve after 2-3 days on the new diet. Diet change BG drop shouldn't take more than that, often even less.

Pick a time to be your shot time, and test every 2 hours (3 if you have to) until the next shot time. That way, you will be able to see how his numbers go throughout the day, and how the diet change has affected his numbers. If you feed him during the curve it will also show you if he's a food spiker or not. From there you can start on insulin if needed. 1u is a good starting point, but some cats are so carb sensitive, he might drop even more with the diet change, and need less. Home testing really is a life saver.

W/D canned is too high in carbs, too expensive, and too poor quality to be worth using long term. Look at the ingredients... yuck. Get him something like FF classic pates, or even Special Kitty select - that's what I feed Scooter. It's nearly identical to FF, but even cheaper. If you want something higher quality and can afford it, Evo, Merrick, and Wellness all make good foods.

Always remember, though - a few days in the higher numbers is a lot more safe than one single hypo incident. DKA can be deadly too, but with Ketostix, you can sometimes catch it in the early stages. Hypoglycemia can come on incredibly fast, and kill a cat just as fast.

Take a deep breath, he'll be okay ;-) You've come to the best place for you and Kiwi.
 
Those numbers do look pretty high. And your kitty will probably need insulin to bring them down.
But, we don't recommend a complete switch over to all wet low carb food and starting insulin all at the same time.
I agree with Ry to give the switch in food a day or two and keep testing his glucose to see how he does with the new food. Also, go buy some Ketone Test Strips today, and start testing his urine for ketones whenever you get a chance to catch him in the box. You don't have to use the ketone test strips forever, but while he's high like this you should.

I wish you luck.
 
Hi Kim & Kiwi,
Everyone here are...as I like to say Angels. Some of the members are so knowledgable in FD.
You are on the right path on getting Kiwi feeling better. Yes, everything is very overwhelming in the beginning. With time it will all make more since & get easier....promise.

I disagree with your vet about not home testing. It is very important to home test for a few of reasons:
1. Most of the BG reading done in a vet office are not adequate. Most of the time cats are stressed when visiting the vet which rise BG levels. So getting readings at home are more adequate.
2. It's important to test BG before adminstering the insulin. Let's say Kiwi starts to go into remission which is very possible. If you are not home testing & you give Kiwi 2 units of Lantus you very well could end up in a hypo situtation. So it's important to know BG levels before giving insulin.
3. Home testing will also help you know how much insulin to give.
4. Home testing will save you time & money going back & forth to the vet doing curves & getting a BG reading.
With those reasons listed. Please know there are lots of vets who are a little more update on FD & supportive of home testing. If you need help finding a vet in your area post a new thread about finding one. Someone might be able to refer a good one in your area or point you in the right direction.

You asked how often to check?
Before each shot.
A couple hours after each shot.
5-7 hours after each shot. This will give you nadir. Which is the lowest point of BG.
You can check my spreadsheet to see how often I test Baxter. I don't work so I can check more often. Some members aren't able to test as often during the week & use the weekend to test frequently or run curves.

Keep in mind when you are testing that BG will be higher after food. It can stay higher even after a couple of hours after food. So you don't ever want to give insulin after a test when food was just ate.
Test
Feed
Shot

Yes, Kiwi numbers are a little high at this time. Its good you are trying to switch to a low carb diet. Give it some time for the low carb food to work & see some drops in BG levels. If I could go back & change one thing it would be to get Baxter off of dry food first, switch to canned food & then start insulin. I know Ry & Scooter went that route. Once you start insulin you have to transition the canned food in because it can lower the BG to low which can cause hypoglycemic.
What kind of treats are you giving? A lot of treats on the market are load with carbs. I feed Baxter bonito flakes. It's dried fish skin I get at the Asian market. I also, give him pure (nothing on it) baked chicken pieces/chuncks.

Have you visited the Lantus board yet? There are some amazing people in there that will help you with dosing along with other things. I don't use your insulin so I can't help you with anything on when or how much.

Everything is going to be ok. Kiwi is in good hands. Please find some time to check out this website....www.catinfo.org. There is a lot of knowledgable information that will help you with diet & health for Kiwi.

I hope some of this helps.
Jenn & Baxter cat_pet_icon
 
Yes, I agree with the others. W/D is NOT a good food for diabetic cats (or any cat, for that matter), an will likely raise your cat's numbers. Switch to a low carb canned food, and return the W/D to the vet for a refund (just say that your cat refused to eat it, it happens all the time with that food). Keep testing, and then after a few days if numbers are still high, start on a LOW dose of insulin. Lantus is a great insulin for cats, with a 84% remission rate when used in conjunction with a low carb canned diet, and regulation via home monitoring, so you're on the right path! :-D

You can get any food that is under 10% carbs, but preferably under 7%. Here's a link to the cat food nutrition charts that will give you the carb content of many grocery store foods: http://www.felinediabetes.com/diabetic-cat-diets.htm. Fancy Feast is really popular here for diabetics, because it's reasonably priced and easy to find--here are the diabetic-safe flavors: http://www.felinediabetes.com/glutenfree.htm. You'll also want to pick up some low carb treats--if you have a PetSmart or PetCo near you there are freeze dried chicken and salmon treats in the cat/dog treat section that are low carb. Anything that is 100% meat is great. These work great in training your cat to like the multiple ear pokes a day. :smile:

I've attached an article to print and bring to your vet. It discusses the treatment course and dosing recommendations with Lantus that has the high remission rate (including a low carb diet). What we often find is most vets will get some parts of treatment right (in your case, insulin choice and home monitoring), but not know about all of them combined (diet, dosing protocols). It's understandable--they need to know about many different diseases for many different animals.
 

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Hi Kim! I'm Kim :lol:
My Simon was diagnosed on January 5. If you click on the spreadsheet in my signature you can see how far he's come. I was very scared and sad right at first, but then it became kind of an interesting and fun project. To be honest, I think Simon and I enjoy each other more because we have new little rituals together. I have a busy household with three human children, so the pets are sort of used to being 5th or 6th in line ;-)

Here is a post about how to set up a spreadsheet and put it in your signature. This will help others look at what is going on and give you help.http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18207

Visit the Lantus board and ask your questions! There are lots of helpful and knowledgeable folks who will give you great guidance. Perhaps better guidance than some vets ;-)

Your vet got you off on the right track with the 1u of Lantus. That's what we did also!

Simon eats Fancy Feast classic turkey and giblets, Fancy Feast classic chicken feast, and Wellness Turkey/Chicken. We order the wellness online for cost savings.

There is lots of info, but take it a bite at a time.

I agree about learning to home test. I think it will save you $$ galore. You will know so much more in a week. Just be patient with yourself!
 
Thanks for all the responses. I'm processing all the information... might take me awhile. But I do have a couple more questions that I need to figure out today. 1) Can we just switch his food (instead of the slower transition... mixing them together first) since he was only on the Hills W/D for a week? We want him on a better food ASAP, esp since we're waiting to give him insulin until is food is stable. 2) We looked into Fancy Feast, but only found it in tiny cans, which made the Wellness brand cheaper... are we missing something? or not looking in the right places?

Thanks for all your help. I'll be posting again, but wanted to get that question out there since we're deciding the food situation today. Also... if anyone thinks we're making a mistake bout waiting a few more days to give insulin, please speak up. We tested with a urine strip yesterday... no ketones so far.

Kim and Kiwi
 
I found best price on Wellness at mrchewy.com (free shipping with 2 cases, or $50, or something). I signed up for the auto-ship to save more. You can always cancel it.

I would definitely get him on the food switch path. I personally did food change cold turkey along with insulin, but I am not one of the most experienced advice givers :lol: so listen to the advice of those who know the ropes. I will see if I can post in Lantus to get more eyes on your thread.

Fancy Feast--I buy at Walmart or online at amazon (amazon has subscribe and save and you get a lower price. It's not on every item. Last time I ordered the classics assortment:
FF assortment
Same thing--you can cancel or change the auto-ship.
One detail on the FF: I think the Janet and Binky lists don't have every formula exactly. Some names change; the old list has more FF than the new list. I know that the CLASSIC Fancy Feast has low carbs. Some of the FF are mid-carbs; perhaps you want to do that for a little while. See here http://www.felinediabetes.com/glutenfree.htm

It is true that you can get large cans (12.5 ounce) Wellness for less than FF, though!

My nondiabetic will eat Wellness, but my diabetic doesn't love it. He is now eating it with fortiflora sprinkled on top. It's actually a probiotic, but the animal digest in the powder makes the wet food more appealing. Just a little sprinkle does the trick for Simey!
 
Wellness is a great food, as long as it's a low carb flavor You're right that it's cheaper than Fancy Feast because it comes in big 12.5 oz cans, and Fancy Feast only comes in 3 oz cans. EVO 95% also comes in big cans, which makes it cheaper. I personally feed Merricks in 5.5 oz cans, which with the discount I get at my local feed store works out to be nearly the same price as Fancy Feast for a higher quality food. Here's an updated food chart with some premium brands of cat food that has updated values for these: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8U...MyMC00Y2Y3LWI4ODMtMzhkYTkxOGM4NThk/edit?pli=1
 
Just a quick update --- We switched to Wellness (Turkey for now) today. His pre- dinner bg was already down to 304! (Still no insulin). It seems awfully fast, but I'm feeling good about it. Since he's going the right direction, We did check his ketones again, and they are still negative. He ate his earlier meal quick, and seemed to love it... but he only ate half of his evening meal. I can't figure out if he wasn't as hungry, if he didn't like it cold (we're using the big cans to keep cost down), or if his stomach was upset (we did switch him all-at-once, since he'd been on his last food less than a week). I did notice him licking his lips a little excessively as he left his bowl, and I remember reading about that somewhere... but can't remember what it means. Anyone? Should I be concerned? He then laid down for a nap, as he always does after dinner.

I'll updated again soon, but thanks everyone for reassuring me to get his diet in order before starting the insulin. This latest drop makes me think we might have had a hypoglycemic cat on our hands if we had done both. Also, our other cats were jealous of the wet food (and now that we know the dangers of dry food), we're planning to switch everyone to Wellness. Hopefully our other (younger) over-weight cat avoids this fate. Are there any reasons this diet wouldn't be good for all of them? One is 10 yrs, female, with a stage-one heart murmur (she's going in for tests soon), and the other is an over-weight (12.5 lb) 8 year old male (might be Russian Blue mix, but I've had my doubts). Oh, and Kiwi, our diabetic, is an American Bobtail (I guess I forgot to mention that), who was stubbornly over-weight, but now down to 9.5 lbs). Hopefully they'll ALL be healthier after everything I've learned.

Thanks everyone,
Kim and Kiwi
 
Thanks. I did have Dr. Lisa's site, but the treat list should be helpful. Kiwi never wanted treats until recently (maybe because he was so super hungry because of the diabetes), so I don't know if he'll want them after he's regulated or not... but it'll be good to be prepared. I would like to give him a treat after his bg tests... poor guy!
 
MelanieAndRacci said:
Julia,

Did you update that sheet? It's great!

Melanie & Racci

Nope, I'm not sure who put it together but I wish I did so that I can thank them profusely! It's so incredibly useful for cats with CKD because it has updated phosphorus values.
 
NEED ADVICE:

Kiwi's bg was down to 304 the day we changed him from Hill's W/D to Wellness Turkey. Since I had a lot of trouble poking him that day, and he was very upset, (and his bg had been going in the right direction for a week, and I expected that to continue), I gave him a break from testing for two days (which was obviously a mistake). Tonight, before dinner, his bg was up. This brings up my first question.... he tested at 446. I tested again to be sure (new poke), and it was 411. How do I know when numbers are right (and which one is right?)?? Second question: he was clearly more distressed over the test than usual.... could that raise his bg? If so, how much? (Because an alarm went off while we were getting him ready, he had about 10 minutes to be upset... plus the alarm itself being loud and irritating).

Big question: We've waited to give him insulin to switch his diet first. We switched him on Tues. Is that enough time? Should we start insulin tomorrow, since his bg is actually higher? Also, any thoughts as to why is bg might be HIGHER after a few days on Wellness, when he seemed to be steadily decreasing on Hill's W/D? Any ideas about what might be going on???

These are his past tests: At vet, at dx - over 600. Third day on Hills W/D (day we got our ReliOn meter): 503. Fourth day: 410. Fifth day: 390. Sixth day: 396. Day we switched to Wellness: 304. Now, fourth day on Wellness: 446 (or 411). or more details, see earlier posts. We're checking him before he eats dinner, each time, for consistency.

Also, if I check him before breakfast, would that reading be lower because of the time of day? Can it be compared with the previous readings, done at night? I wish I could go back and test him the last two days, so I had more information to go on. I guess I was overly confident the drop would continue, and expected a lower number today. The other confusing thing is that he seems to be feeling better than he was a couple days ago. He's not drinking too much water, has normal appetite (not too much or too little), he's more active, he's purring more, was running around the house today, and keeping himself cleaner (even more so than his earlier improvement). Can anyone give my their thoughts on what is happening? And am I right to think its time to start the insulin tomorrow?
 
Did you update that sheet? It's great!

Melanie & Racci

Nope, I'm not sure who put it together but I wish I did so that I can thank them profusely! It's so incredibly useful for cats with CKD because it has updated phosphorus values.
Bandit OTJ since 9/8/2010
Missing my sweet Gabby. GA 3/11/2011.

Bandit's Spreadsheet

Julia & Bandit's Profile

I feel the same way! I also love the calories being broken down. That's a real labor of love.

Melanie & Racci
 
Hi Kim

I just read through your thread. In regard to tonight's two readings, meters can have up to a 20% variance from reading to reading. So 446 and 411 are basically the same number. When Kiwi is at high numbers then the range is greater. For instance, 20% of 500 is 100 so when you got a 500 reading, it could have actually been 400 or 600.

It's hard to say how long the change in diet will take. But more the issue is the longer he is at these high numbers, the more insulin resistant he becomes. Is there another vet at your clinic that you can speak to instead of the tech? If this were my kitty, I would definitely be talking to the vet about getting him on insulin. You might find that between the diet change and a small amount of insulin given consistently, that he won't need it for long.

So, my recommendation is to talk to a vet with the goal of getting him on insulin sooner rather than later.

Good luck.
 
Kim:

I would start putting all of the data you're collecting into a spreadsheet. There's a fair amount of individual variation with each cat. You're asking good questions it's just hard to make sweeping generalizations. We use an expression -- ECID (Every Cat Is Different) -- because no matter how frequently a "rule" may hold, there are always exceptions and variations depending on the individual kitty. You can find a the spreadsheet template we all use in the Tech Support Forum. Being able to see the data you're currently collecting will help us to answer your questions.

There is approximately a 20% variance in any test number due to meter variance. It's also hard to compare one number on one day to another test on a different day. There can be any number of factors that influence any one test. We tend to look at patterns. This is another reason that having a spreadsheet is helpful. Also, one test per day doesn't really tell you all that much.

While Kiwi's numbers are coming down in response to a low carb diet, numbers in the 300s are still very diabetic. The longer Kiwi sits in these high numbers, the more you risk glucose toxicity. In other words, Kiwi's body will become accustomed to being in these high ranges. As a result, when you start insulin, Kiwi's body won't be used to being in normal ranges and will overreact by bouncing back into higher numbers. Glucose toxicity makes getting a cat regulated harder. This is my long winded way of saying that you should start giving Kiwi insulin.

You will need to be testing before every shot. This is your AMPS or PMPS test (AM or PM Pre-Shot test). These numbers help you to know if it's safe to shoot. With Lantus, dose adjustments are based on the lowest point in the cycle, the nadir. This is why it will be important for you to get spot checks during the morning and evening cycles.

Do you know what your starting dose is?
 
Can anyone tell me why his bg might be higher now thats he's on the low carb diet. Strangely, it had gone down on the Hills W/D, now shot back up while on low carbs... which is opposite of what I expected.

When should I test tomorrow? He'll eat at 8am, and I think I'm supposed to give the insulin after that? When should his bg be the lowest? He was prescribed 1 unit of Lantus twice a day.

Thanks for your help.
 
Kiwi F said:
Can anyone tell me why his bg might be higher now thats he's on the low carb diet. Strangely, it had gone down on the Hills W/D, now shot back up while on low carbs... which is opposite of what I expected.

When should I test tomorrow? He'll eat at 8am, and I think I'm supposed to give the insulin after that? When should his bg be the lowest? He was prescribed 1 unit of Lantus twice a day.

Thanks for your help.

Hi Kim,
Keep in mind that diet is not the whole picture, but it's a big part of it. As for why his numbers seem to have gone up, well, it could be lots of reasons, even a bad tooth or an infection or stress.

For testing, you want to test before each shot; those 2 tests are automatic because you don't want to give a shot unless you know he's at a safe number.

So tomorrow, do NOT feed until you have tested and decided to give a shot or not. If his shot should be at 8am, then test him no earlier than 745am. I usually get the food ready, then test, prepare shot, then put down food and give shot. If the test number is a bit low, I will hold back the food and test again in 15min to see if the numbers are rising.

When should his BG be lowest, well that depends on your cat. A general guideline is the following:
Example of a typical curve:
+0 - PreShot number.
+1 – Usually higher than PreShot number because of the last shot wearing off. May see a food spike in this number.
+2 - Often similar to the PreShot number.
+3 - Lower than the PreShot number, onset has started.
+4 - Lower.
+5 - Lower.
+6 – Nadir/Peak (the lowest number of cycle).
+7 - Surf (hang around the nadir number).
+8 - Slight rise.
+9 - Slight rise.
+10 - Rising.
+11 - Rising (may dip around +10 or +11).
+12 - PreShot number.

now that's just a guideline because some cats are lower earlier and some later. That's why it's important to do the curves so that you can know when YOUR cat is lowest. One of mine is around +4.5 and another is closer to maybe +10.

Since people will be asking you to put your numbers into a spreadsheet, here's the instructions:
Create your Spreadsheet


Right now, his body is still adjusting to food and to insulin so you are in data collection mode right now. Make a note of everything that changes or is of notice as you can look back later and compare.

If you are doing a curve tomorrow, see if you can test every 2hrs or even every 3hrs.
 
I'll be starting his shot in the morning. I have one more question though... have a chronic illness that makes me less than steady with my hands. Because of this (coupled with inexperience), poor Kiwi's ears are bruised pretty bad, even though I've been trying to test as little as possible (would like to test more). Should I be worried about that? Most are smallish, but two are the diameter of a pea. I think I hit the vein with those two, and will be more careful of that. What should I watch for? Is it normal to be all bruised up the first week? I try keeping pressure on it, but he tends to bolt on me the second its done. Can I still test where there is a bruise? How long do they last?
 
Kiwi F said:
I'll be starting his shot in the morning. I have one more question though... have a chronic illness that makes me less than steady with my hands. Because of this (coupled with inexperience), poor Kiwi's ears are bruised pretty bad, even though I've been trying to test as little as possible (would like to test more). Should I be worried about that? Most are smallish, but two are the diameter of a pea. I think I hit the vein with those two, and will be more careful of that. What should I watch for? Is it normal to be all bruised up the first week? I try keeping pressure on it, but he tends to bolt on me the second its done. Can I still test where there is a bruise? How long do they last?

OK are you poking free hand or are you using the lancet device? I know that many like the free hand way, just holding a lancet and poking, but seriously, that hurts more and it's inconsistent. With the lancet device, you set the depth and hold the device against the ear, then click and it pokes.
A simple test on yourself will prove that the device is the quickest and most consistent.

Use polysporin on his ears and it will heal just fine. My cats pretty much sleep through the pokes. I don't aim for the vein as if you hit it, you have a gusher to try and stop.

You can try another spot just beside the location of the last pokes, just be sure to apply pressure to the poked spot and it will stop the bleeding and lessen any bruising.
treats and pats, give some of both before and after the pokes, and as he starts feeling better with the insulin you will see he's getting used to the routine.
 
Good morning! Why don't you start a new thread, either here or in Lantus TR, and people will continue to help! You can tell us your cat's morning pre-shot test (we call it AMPS) and whether you gave the shot. It's a Saturday, so if you get a test every 2 hours you'll have your first curve! Just let us know if you have questions.

I second the lancet device. I actually get great drops of blood on only the shallowest setting. You may need it set a little deeper until you get the hang of it. I found that a larger lancet (gauge of the lancet is opposite, so a smaller number is a fatter lancet) helps get a good poke in the lancet device at first).
 
Hi Kim and Kiwi, how did it go today? Do you want to come on over to the Lantus-Tight Reg forum and post so that others can see how it went? Click here and then click new topic. Just type new user/need dose advice in your subject line.
 
Kim

Can you pm me and I can get the SS set up for you. It won't take me any time at all to do it for you.

I think Kim (Simon) has a good suggestion for you to post in the lantus TR ISG just based on the number of eyes there right now when you need them. We'd like to have a SS set up as soon as possible so we can give you the best assistance. Once we can get that done and give you some suggestions on what to do next, you can decide which forum you prefer to be in...there are options and you do not have to do tight regulation or stay in that forum.
 
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