New Member - Urination and Regulation Issues

Status
Not open for further replies.

PyxieStyx

New Member
Hi everyone,

Lovely to "meet" you all. I'm Sam, and the fellow used in my avatar pic is Romulus, our diabetic kitty. We need some help figuring out our next steps.

We're very new to our diabetic journey. Until recently (last week, actually, when I found this group and started reading), we've just been going by what our vet told us to do, but we're still very unregulated and nothing seems to be working for one of his biggest issues- frequent and extreme urination.

Context: Rom (or Bom-Bom, Bomby, Bombus, etc. because he used to be so bombastic) is just turning 5 years old, give or take a few weeks. He began showing considerable health concerns in December 2023 (barbering his fur, lethargy, beginnings of weight loss, extreme hunger), and in February 2024 he was diagnosed diabetic. He had significant weight loss during that discovery period, dropping 5 lbs between December and March. He was a larger cat that never seemed to lose weight no matter what we did until the diabetes, and now he's underweight for his build. He is no longer losing, but he is still not gaining.

Our vet diagnosed him and started us on 1u Vetsulin at the end of February. She provided us with diabetic dry food only, but I had a gut feeling that this wasn't the right way to go and ended up getting the matching wet food. Because we're a multi-cat household (10 of them!) we switched from free feeding to scheduled feeding for all household members. Every 12 hours, we separate Rom into the bathroom and feed him separately according to the desired weight chart on his food, and administer his insulin while he is distracted and eating. We were told to only administer the insulin in the scruff of the neck- something I've read against doing in the documents here. I'm not sure if we should discuss changing location with our vet, or if we should just switch to the area along his abdomen.

We initially saw a change on the 1u and feeding schedule where he seemed to be more like his old self, but he continued to lose weight and the lethargy came back pretty quickly. We brought him back in for a test after two weeks, and he went from testing in the high 600s to 400s at the vet visit 4 hours after eating/providing insulin. Still very high, of course, but they were hopeful that increasing by another unit would do the trick. So we were tasked with home testing and moved up to 2u of Vetsulin every 12 hours.

Here's where the latest batch of trouble started. We've had nothing but problems with the glucose meter (i Pet Pro) we purchased from the vet, and struggle to this day to get readings both from the meter and from the cat. We really struggle to get his ears to bleed when pricked, and often have to make multiple pricks or even rips (vet told us to go in at an angle with our needle and then pull up) to get enough blood. On top of that, when we were back in for a recent issue, the vet confirmed that Rom is "avascular" in his ears and even she struggles to take readings from him.

Our meter claims his readings are all over the place; just two nights ago we decided to test the theory of bad readings by doing two back-to-back tests and taking samples from each ear about 10 minutes before his evening feeding. The first test placed him hypo at 58 mg/dL, and the second test 2 minutes later in the other ear put him at 208 mg/dL. Any guidance we can get on straightening out our meter troubles would be deeply appreciated. Additionally, I know stress can affect readings, but how do we know the truth when he tests in the 400-600s at the vet, and in the 100-200s at home?

On top of that, we're seeing new symptoms that are making our lives a living heck, including Rom's. Once we increased to 2u of Vetsulin, we noticed our boy's water intake spiked up again. Shortly after that, he started having accidents. It started abruptly one evening. He started circling our living room couch growling, and then running to the litter box in that room. Sometimes he made it, sometimes he didn't, and the space is probably somewhere between 20-25 feet long. At the time this started, any accidents he was having where he didn't make it to the box were just little drips and dribbles.

Those little drips and dribbles quickly became floods. It's like we turned a gallon jug of water upside down on the floor. It's multiple times per hour, and he's not making it to any of our litter boxes. We took Rom back to the vet when he started to pee himself in his sleep. He behaves like he does not notice that he's covered in urine or wet in general- he just gets up and goes about his day. It is extremely weird, and I called the vet immediately and got a same day.

That day's visit revealed that his sugar was in the 400s again, but our vet was baffled that A) it had not gone down with the insulin increase, and B) why he would be having these types of accidents but not seem to notice. She checked him for ketones in his urine and found nothing thankfully. She mentioned that his urine is extremely dilute, but still full of sugars. We asked about neuropathy, but she didn't seem to think this was a concern yet. I then asked about reducing/removing his dry food. She said that we should keep some dry in his diet for his teeth, but we could transition to mostly wet food, but keep the insulin the same. I now know that I should be testing, feeding, and then administering insulin, but I'm not sure how or what I'm looking for based on the trouble we've seen with his meter.

We started reducing his dry food on Thursday night, and for two days the flooding accidents cleared up. But as of Sunday afternoon, he's started having extreme accidents again. Right now he's flooded our couch and is sleeping in it as if he doesn't even know it's there. This is completely abnormal for him- he's always been very meticulous. Clean litter boxes, Cat Attract, more litter boxes, etc. do not seem to make a difference. When he's awake, he licks his "bits" raw to the point of bleeding, and he dribbles with every step. He's absolutely soaked. What's more- there's virtually no smell. You can detect the faintest whiff of urine in the house overall, but it's tough to tell the difference between his accidents and water on the floor even when we stick our noses right in there.

My fiance and I both work from home, and even so, we're struggling to keep up with the mess. This is a rental with an open floor plan, so we have very limited options for confining Rom to a single room.

I know this was a lot- especially coming in as a new member- but we really need some help and we feel very overwhelmed. Any advice to make poor Rom comfortable and keep us from needing to put up wet floor signs would be helpful, as well as help understanding what might be going on with our meter.

Thank you all so much for reading!

Edit to Mention: Forgot to add that when we first brought up the urination issue to the vet, she started him on amoxicillin for 14 days and gabapentin for 10 days as a precaution, even though she did not see signs of infection. That held true when we retested on Thursday, and he has finished his regimen of drugs.

I also just got another reading. It's been 7 hours since his insulin and last feeding, and he was at 137 mg/dL. He just peed himself again on the floor getting off the couch.
 
Last edited:
We really struggle to get his ears to bleed when pricked, and often have to make multiple pricks or even rips (vet told us to go in at an angle with our needle and then pull up) to get enough blood. On top of that, when we were back in for a recent issue, the vet confirmed that Rom is "avascular" in his ears and even she struggles to take readings from him.

This is an area I hope I can help you out with a suggestion. It sounds like you may be doing the ear prick by hand? I personally would not. As, it's far more deliberate than the little pen that does the pricking for you. I warm up a long legwarmer with water and apply it to my cats ear to open up the blood vessels a little more. Then I take it and make sure the ear is dry. I prick from the inside. I think others may go from the outside. But, I place the sock over my finger and cradle the back of the ear. Then I go in with the lancing device. It pops so fast and it's done. It's very fast. I suppose every cat is different, but I have never had my cat show distress one time when I've used the lancing pen. He even comes out most of the time because he knows it's test time.
 
Welcome to FDMB!

The first suggestion I would make is you need to reconsider what you're feeding your cat. Despite the pricey "prescription" diabetic food, it's really not low in carbohydrates, especially the diabetic dry food. The dry diabetic food tends to be very high in carbs. Some of the canned foods are in an acceptable range, but not all. You can feed all of your cats the same canned food providing it's below 10% carbohydrate. Just as an FYI, the pet food manufacturers lost a class action suit for calling their food "prescription." There's nothing medically prescriptive in the food. This is a link to a food chart that lists the carb counts and other nutritional values for most of the canned foods available in the US. Many members feed their cats either Fancy Feast or Friskies pates which are low in carbs and are reasonably priced., which I suspect with 10 cats is a concern. The website that this chart came from is an excellent one for information on feline nutrition and is written by a vet.

If your cat is staying in such high numbers, you're going to see symptoms of diabetes -- your cat is going to be drinking and urinating gallons. Your cat is also going to be constantly hungry but not gaining weight. Normally, insulin functions to move the end product of food being metabolized (i.e., glucose) from the blood stream into the cells. In diabetes, the pancreas isn't producing enough insulin to do this so your cat loses weight since food isn't getting where it's supposed to go and it's being excreted in the urine. Giving your cat a diet that is lower in carbohydrates will help. We recommend a low carb diet which is food that is less than 10% carbs, although most members feed their cat a diet that's in the 5% range. It can also mean that your cat needs more insulin. One other factor is that until your cat is better regulated, you can feed Romulus more than what he's used to typically eating.

As for insulin, Vetsulin is not a wonderful choice for cats. Its "other" name is Caninsulin and it was formulated for treating diabetic dogs. The American Animal Hospital Assn (AAHA) stopped recommending it for treating feline diabetes and now recommends either Prozinc or Lantus (glargine). Vetsulin does not have a long enough duration given a cat's fast metabolism. It can also drop blood glucose numbers hard and fast. This is a link to the AAHA guidelines.

I can't speak to the meter you're using. A significant number of members use the Walmart Relion meter which is a human meter. The strips are far less expensive than the strips for a pet meter. If you are frustrated with using a handheld meter, many people are using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) such as the Freestyle Libre. This involves applying a sensor to your cat's skin and and you can get readings on your phone. As Shell noted, warming your cat's ear with a rice sock that you heat up in the microwave or some other method can also help you to get blood. Using a lancet that is a bit wider (e.g., a 28 gauge - the lower the number the wider the needle) may also help. I always freehand tested; I never used a lancing device.

This is a link to our information on Vetsulin. One of the things you will note is that we recommend that you test your cat's blood glucose to make sure it's safe to give insulin, feed your cat then wait 20 - 30 min, then give a shot. Because Vetsulin is fast acting, you really need to have food on board before giving a shot.

Based on what you added about hour cat's numbers, he's dropping into a good range. However, I would bet that his numbers bounce into a high range by his shot time. This is fairly typical with Vetsulin. As a result, he's not getting the benefit of the lower numbers and I suspect his bladder gets pretty full from his thirst related to the diabetes.

The final thing that will help us is if you follow the directions in this post on helping us to help you. There are instructions for setting up your signature which will help us to not pester you with asking the same questions repeatedly along with instructions for setting up a spreadsheet so you can track Romulus' progress and so we can follow along. If you need help with the spreadsheet, @Bandit's Mom (her name is Bhooma) can lend a hand.

Please let us know if you have questions. We're here to help.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum Sam and Romulus.
Did the antibiotics make a difference to the incontinence of urine? If not, and it doesn’t sound as if it has, It might be worth while getting a urine sample tested (at a lab) for any infection instead of just guessing on the choice of antibiotic. They can identify any bacteria and tell you what antibiotic will cure the problem. It’s called a culture and sensitivity (C&S).
If this doesn’t solve the problem, it could be that Rom has FLUTD …symptoms can be similar to a UTI. Google it.

I agree with Sienne about swapping to a low carb wet diet. Have a look at this FOOD CHART. Look for food with carbs 10% or less.
However you need to be aware that changing to a low carb diet could drop the blood glucose significantly. So you need to be monitoring the BGs closely during any change.

Are you feeding 2 main meals a day and then giving 2 or 3 snacks of food during all the cycles? A snack is a couple of teaspoons of normal low carb food.

Have you got a hypo kit set up in case of low numbers? If the BGs drop really low, you don’t want to be left empty handed looking frantically for something high carb. You can see info about a hypo kit in the link in post 3 …HELP US HELP YOU.
 
This is an area I hope I can help you out with a suggestion. It sounds like you may be doing the ear prick by hand? I personally would not. As, it's far more deliberate than the little pen that does the pricking for you. I warm up a long legwarmer with water and apply it to my cats ear to open up the blood vessels a little more. Then I take it and make sure the ear is dry. I prick from the inside. I think others may go from the outside. But, I place the sock over my finger and cradle the back of the ear. Then I go in with the lancing device. It pops so fast and it's done. It's very fast. I suppose every cat is different, but I have never had my cat show distress one time when I've used the lancing pen. He even comes out most of the time because he knows it's test time.
Thank you very much! Whenever I use my lancing device, we are unable to extract any blood. We've tried all 5 depth settings with it and brought it to the vet to see if it was broken, but they were unable to draw with it as well. They recommended freehanding and "digging" into the vein to force him to bleed. It feels very inhumane since I can't convey to him why I'm ripping a hole in his ear. :(

That said, I did just test again and tried the warmth trick- it did make a little difference, thank you!
 
Hi and welcome to the forum Sam and Romulus.
Did the antibiotics make a difference to the incontinence of urine? If not, and it doesn’t sound as if it has, It might be worth while getting a urine sample tested (at a lab) for any infection instead of just guessing on the choice of antibiotic. They can identify any bacteria and tell you what antibiotic will cure the problem. It’s called a culture and sensitivity (C&S).
If this doesn’t solve the problem, it could be that Rom has FLUTD …symptoms can be similar to a UTI. Google it.

I agree with Sienne about swapping to a low carb wet diet. Have a look at this FOOD CHART. Look for food with carbs 10% or less.
However you need to be aware that changing to a low carb diet could drop the blood glucose significantly. So you need to be monitoring the BGs closely during any change.

Are you feeding 2 main meals a day and then giving 2 or 3 snacks of food during all the cycles? A snack is a couple of teaspoons of normal low carb food.

Have you got a hypo kit set up in case of low numbers? If the BGs drop really low, you don’t want to be left empty handed looking frantically for something high carb. You can see info about a hypo kit in the link in post 3 …HELP US HELP YOU.

Hi, thank you very much! The antibiotics did not make a noticeable difference. When we had the "break" in incontinence for a couple days he was already more than halfway through the amoxicillin and coming up on the end of the gabapentin. I know they take awhile to kick in, but the problem came back with three days left on the amoxicillin. We finished the medication today.

We've got a scheduled vet visit tomorrow, so I can chat with them about the C&S for sure. The last urine analysis was on Thursday and they still didn't see any signs of infection, but I'll bring it up. I also looked up FLUTD, which I will ask her about tomorrow as well.

Question about switching foods- should it be transitioned (so doing 1/4 new wet and 3/4 old wet, etc) or should we just dive into a new food as long as we're monitoring with other options on hand?

We are feeding two main meals a day. We have not been consistently giving snacks- our vet had initially advised us to only feed AM and PM while giving his shot. We certainly can give him snacks, however. Another question- do members here give wet snacks like Churu? Or is that off limits due to carbs?

I've just read the hypo toolkit post today and we will be assembling ASAP. We've already got honey and karo available, as well as the wet food (friskies shreds) that the other cats in the house eat. We knew from our vet and our own initial reading that it was a concern, but we were advised to just have some karo or honey on hand and rush off to the ER vet if he started "acting like he's drunk."

Thank you!
 
Welcome to FDMB!

The first suggestion I would make is you need to reconsider what you're feeding your cat. Despite the pricey "prescription" diabetic food, it's really not low in carbohydrates, especially the diabetic dry food. The dry diabetic food tends to be very high in carbs. Some of the canned foods are in an acceptable range, but not all. You can feed all of your cats the same canned food providing it's below 10% carbohydrate. Just as an FYI, the pet food manufacturers lost a class action suit for calling their food "prescription." There's nothing medically prescriptive in the food. This is a link to a food chart that lists the carb counts and other nutritional values for most of the canned foods available in the US. Many members feed their cats either Fancy Feast or Friskies pates which are low in carbs and are reasonably priced., which I suspect with 10 cats is a concern. The website that this chart came from is an excellent one for information on feline nutrition and is written by a vet.

If your cat is staying in such high numbers, you're going to see symptoms of diabetes -- your cat is going to be drinking and urinating gallons. Your cat is also going to be constantly hungry but not gaining weight. Normally, insulin functions to move the end product of food being metabolized (i.e., glucose) from the blood stream into the cells. In diabetes, the pancreas isn't producing enough insulin to do this so your cat loses weight since food isn't getting where it's supposed to go and it's being excreted in the urine. Giving your cat a diet that is lower in carbohydrates will help. We recommend a low carb diet which is food that is less than 10% carbs, although most members feed their cat a diet that's in the 5% range. It can also mean that your cat needs more insulin. One other factor is that until your cat is better regulated, you can feed Romulus more than what he's used to typically eating.

As for insulin, Vetsulin is not a wonderful choice for cats. Its "other" name is Caninsulin and it was formulated for treating diabetic dogs. The American Animal Hospital Assn (AAHA) stopped recommending it for treating feline diabetes and now recommends either Prozinc or Lantus (glargine). Vetsulin does not have a long enough duration given a cat's fast metabolism. It can also drop blood glucose numbers hard and fast. This is a link to the AAHA guidelines.

I can't speak to the meter you're using. A significant number of members use the Walmart Relion meter which is a human meter. The strips are far less expensive than the strips for a pet meter. If you are frustrated with using a handheld meter, many people are using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) such as the Freestyle Libre. This involves applying a sensor to your cat's skin and and you can get readings on your phone. As Shell noted, warming your cat's ear with a rice sock that you heat up in the microwave or some other method can also help you to get blood. Using a lancet that is a bit wider (e.g., a 28 gauge - the lower the number the wider the needle) may also help. I always freehand tested; I never used a lancing device.

This is a link to our information on Vetsulin. One of the things you will note is that we recommend that you test your cat's blood glucose to make sure it's safe to give insulin, feed your cat then wait 20 - 30 min, then give a shot. Because Vetsulin is fast acting, you really need to have food on board before giving a shot.

Based on what you added about hour cat's numbers, he's dropping into a good range. However, I would bet that his numbers bounce into a high range by his shot time. This is fairly typical with Vetsulin. As a result, he's not getting the benefit of the lower numbers and I suspect his bladder gets pretty full from his thirst related to the diabetes.

The final thing that will help us is if you follow the directions in this post on helping us to help you. There are instructions for setting up your signature which will help us to not pester you with asking the same questions repeatedly along with instructions for setting up a spreadsheet so you can track Romulus' progress and so we can follow along. If you need help with the spreadsheet, @Bandit's Mom (her name is Bhooma) can lend a hand.

Please let us know if you have questions. We're here to help.

Hi, thank you very much! I've gone ahead and set up my signature- should I include the urine issue in my signature, and how should that look since there's no official diagnosis yet?

I've read everything you linked except the nutrition site, and I'll be going over that in more detail tonight- I really appreciate the help. We would love to switch foods and can make that happen pretty quickly. We've already started transitioning off the dry food a few days ago, so we can definitely 86 the "prescription" food and move back to Friskies or FF- that would be so much easier for us.

How is the Freestyle Libre applied, and what are the costs over time? I had looked it up and saw that one of the models was on a 14-day cycle. Does this mean it will cost ~$90 every 14 days to monitor Rom's BG with this unit? Additionally, do members find that the cat tries to get the unit off of them? I'm worried he could pull it apart or do something else to it. We just took our PMPS, and it was absolute heck trying to get our meter to read and get blood out of his ears, even with the heat trick. I think we'd all love it if we could reduce how often that has to happen.

In the Vetsulin information, I noticed that the numbers are based on human readers (and that there's some info for pet readers). We got a PMPS of 328 mg/dL tonight with our pet reader (which feels like your point about bouncing was proven), but I'm not sure how this translates into dosing instructions. Is there a human/pet reader conversion chart somewhere?

Additionally, we've been tenting the scruff/area just above the shoulders for his injection; with Vetsulin, should we be using a different injection site? And should we try that with our next dose?

I'll get my spreadsheet set up and start tracking right away- thank you so much for everything!
 
We've got a scheduled vet visit tomorrow, so I can chat with them about the C&S for sure. The last urine analysis was on Thursday and they still didn't see any signs of infection, but I'll bring it up. I also looked up FLUTD, which I will ask her about tomorrow as well.
I would ask the vet to send off a urine specimen. They might think it isn’t necessary but you need to get to the bottom of the problem and it might be a process of elimination.
FLUTD usually settles down after a few days but can come back. My Sheba had it and it usually came on with stress. She would dribble and seemed unaware of it and she could go to the little box multiple times and only do a tiny bit of urine. It can be painful as well. There are treatments for it but it’s mainly management rather than cure it.
It is also possible the problem could go away when the BGs become more under control.

I would ask the vet about a more suitable insulin such as Lantus (or biosimilar) or Prozinc. They are much more suitable insulins for cats….longer lasting and more gentle.


Is there a human/pet reader conversion chart somewhere?
We dont translate the BGs from pet to human numbers. We just use the human numbers. Before pet meters came into being several years ago….all vets used human meters. Our dosing methods are based on human meter numbers.
somewhere?

Additionally, we've been tenting the scruff/area just above the shoulders for his injection; with Vetsulin, should we be using a different injection site? And should we try that with our next dose?
There is no need to ask your vet if you can shoot in a different place.
upload_2024-5-28_11-19-13.jpeg


Question about switching foods- should it be transitioned (so doing 1/4 new wet and 3/4 old wet, etc) or should we just dive into a new food as long as we're monitoring with other options on hand?
I would do the transition of food over several days such as 1/4 new food etc as you suggested. That should prevent any tummy upsets.
We are feeding two main meals a day. We have not been consistently giving snacks- our vet had initially advised us to only feed AM and PM while giving his shot. We certainly can give him snacks, however. Another question- do members here give wet snacks like Churu? Or is that off limits due to carbs?
Just two meals a day is old thinking. Cats do much better and are much happier if they get snacks as well. I live in Australia so I don’t know what churu is but if it is high carb it is not suitable. I would suggest feeding normal low carb food you would feed as part of the main meal. Just don’t feed for the two hours before the preshots as we don’t want the preshot to be food influenced.
I've just read the hypo toolkit post today and we will be assembling ASAP. We've already got honey and karo available, as well as the wet food (friskies shreds) that the other cats in the house eat. We knew from our vet and our own initial reading that it was a concern, but we were advised to just have some karo or honey on hand and rush off to the ER vet if he started "acting like he's drunk."

If you are hometesting, you should be able to see much earlier if the BGs are dropping too low and before it get to the stage of your kitty looking drunk….by that stage they are dangerously low.
How is the Freestyle Libre applied, and what are the costs over time? I had looked it up and saw that one of the models was on a 14-day cycle. Does this mean it will cost ~$90 every 14 days to monitor Rom's BG with this unit? Additionally, do members find that the cat tries to get the unit off of them? I'm worried he could pull it apart or do something else to it. We just took our PMPS, and it was absolute heck trying to get our meter to read and get blood out of his ears, even with the heat trick. I think we'd all love it if we could reduce how often that has to happen.
Yes it is the cost every 14 days. It’s ok while you are getting used to doing hometesting but costly moving forward. They can be pulled off by cats but get it put where the cat can’t get to it. Some people put on onesies. I would concentrate in trying to get hometesting sorted…it can take a short time but you will get thee I promise. We all failed in the beginning. Shine a torch behind the ear so you can see the vein. You need to prick between the edge of the ear and the vein. You don’t want to hit the vein. I would also try and get some size 26 gauge lancets. Warm the ear and massage it and milk it towards the tip. Always give a treat even if you fail….expect to fail…we all do.

upload_2024-5-28_11-29-23.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • upload_2024-5-28_11-19-13.jpeg
    upload_2024-5-28_11-19-13.jpeg
    52.3 KB · Views: 151
  • upload_2024-5-28_11-29-23.jpeg
    upload_2024-5-28_11-29-23.jpeg
    79.2 KB · Views: 404
I would ask the vet to send off a urine specimen. They might think it isn’t necessary but you need to get to the bottom of the problem and it might be a process of elimination.
FLUTD usually settles down after a few days but can come back. My Sheba had it and it usually came on with stress. She would dribble and seemed unaware of it and she could go to the little box multiple times and only do a tiny bit of urine. It can be painful as well. There are treatments for it but it’s mainly management rather than cure it.
It is also possible the problem could go away when the BGs become more under control.

I would ask the vet about a more suitable insulin such as Lantus (or biosimilar) or Prozinc. They are much more suitable insulins for cats….longer lasting and more gentle.



We dont translate the BGs from pet to human numbers. We just use the human numbers. Before pet meters came into being several years ago….all vets used human meters. Our dosing methods are based on human meter numbers.

There is no need to ask your vet if you can shoot in a different place.
View attachment 70197


I would do the transition of food over several days such as 1/4 new food etc as you suggested. That should prevent any tummy upsets.

Just two meals a day is old thinking. Cats do much better and are much happier if they get snacks as well. I live in Australia so I don’t know what churu is but if it is high carb it is not suitable. I would suggest feeding normal low carb food you would feed as part of the main meal. Just don’t feed for the two hours before the preshots as we don’t want the preshot to be food influenced.


If you are hometesting, you should be able to see much earlier if the BGs are dropping too low and before it get to the stage of your kitty looking drunk….by that stage they are dangerously low.

Yes it is the cost every 14 days. It’s ok while you are getting used to doing hometesting but costly moving forward. They can be pulled off by cats but get it put where the cat can’t get to it. Some people put on onesies. I would concentrate in trying to get hometesting sorted…it can take a short time but you will get thee I promise. We all failed in the beginning. Shine a torch behind the ear so you can see the vein. You need to prick between the edge of the ear and the vein. You don’t want to hit the vein. I would also try and get some size 26 gauge lancets. Warm the ear and massage it and milk it towards the tip. Always give a treat even if you fail….expect to fail…we all do.

View attachment 70198

Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is extremely helpful information. I'm going to see about getting a human meter so our numbers match the documentation. We've got questions for our vet and some homework to do overall, but I'm feeling much more hopeful now!
 
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is extremely helpful information. I'm going to see about getting a human meter so our numbers match the documentation. We've got questions for our vet and some homework to do overall, but I'm feeling much more hopeful now!
That’s great. I’m glad you feel better about it all. Don’t expect the vet to agree with everything you want to do/say though. If you are lucky he will, but many vets are not really up to date with feline diabetes as they are so busy with lots of different animals.
Use the remarks column in the spreadsheet to give us information about food, peeing, pooping etc as it is there in one sheet… as posts get lost over time but if it’s in the SS it’s very easy to refer to.
Keep asking questions and keep posting.
 
Thank you very much! Whenever I use my lancing device, we are unable to extract any blood. We've tried all 5 depth settings with it and brought it to the vet to see if it was broken, but they were unable to draw with it as well. They recommended freehanding and "digging" into the vein to force him to bleed. It feels very inhumane since I can't convey to him why I'm ripping a hole in his ear. :(

That said, I did just test again and tried the warmth trick- it did make a little difference, thank you!
Oh my goodness! I am so happy! Yes, and as he gets more and more tests, there will also be an increase in vessels for some reason. But, the warmth is a must. I apply the warm cloth and give a chin scratch at the same time. I have found that his left ear is far easier to get a little drop from than his right ear. I hope any of this helps.
 
Always aim for the sweet spot warm the ears up first, you can put rice in a sock and put it in the microwave, test it on the inside of your wrist to be sure it's not to hot, like you would test a babies bottle. You can fill a pill bottle with warm water and roll it on the ears also.Just keep rubbing the ears with your fingers to warm them up
6. As the ears get used to bleeding and grow more capilares, it gets easier to get the amount of blood you need on the first try. If he won’t stand still, you can get the blood onto a clean finger nail and test from there.
When you do get some blood you can try milking the ear.
Get you finger and gently push up toward the blood , more will appear
You will put the cotton round behind his ear in case you poke your finger, after you are done testing you will fold the cotton round over his ear to stop the bleeding , press gently for about 10 or 20 seconds until it stops
Get 26 or 28 gauge lancets
A lot of us use the lancets to test freehand not the lancing device
I find it better to see where I'm aiming
Look at the lancet under a light and you will see one side is curved upward, that's the side you want to poke with

Try putting a thin layer of Vaseline on the ear so the blood will bead up

Here is the link for the meter and test strips so you don't have to search for them
Relion Premier Classic Meter at Walmart for 9 dollars
https://www.walmart.com/ip/ReliOn-Premier-CLASSIC-Blood-Glucose-Monitoring-System/552134103

The tests strips are 17.88 for 100
https://www.walmart.com/ip/ReliOn-Premier-Blood-Glucose-Test-Strips-100-Count/575088197
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top