New and worried -Please Help

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Lkd726

Member Since 2016
My 20 pound Maine Coon was just diagnosed with diabetes. I've had him for 10 years and he was an adult when I adopted him, so I'm not 100% sure of his exact age. I took him to the vet to get teeth removed and his pre op bloodwork came back with his glucose at 263. Two hours layer it was 400. Still waiting for the final fructosamine level tomorrow but obviously looks like diabetes. I've been googling my heart out since diagnosis and this site seems like the place to be. Leo currently eats Halo Spot's Stew (sensitive stomach formula) dry and a can of Halo Spot's Stew per night. He has Always had unlimited access to dry food. From what I've read online, dry food is a huge NO for diabetic cats. I plan on cutting that out. I need suggestions on wet food that's low in carbs. I took him off the mainstream FF, Friskies, etc because of all the fillers, grain, and junk in them. I'd prefer to stay away from those kinds of brands unless that's really what's good for him. Should I start the low carb food before starting insulin? I've read it's not easy to do low carb food once insulin is started. Also, any suggestions on home testing. I've read and you tubed about it, but I'd like your opinion. Lancet size, meter type, best prices for strips, tips on getting blood, etc. Info on how to spot high and low blood sugar would be helpful. Any other tips or info you have I would really appreciate. I'm extremely overwhelmed and worried; Leo is my world. I don't want him to be in pain or suffer ever, I just want him healthy. Please help!
 
I'm a newbie to the feline diabetes world myself, so I'm slowly learning the ins and outs of caring for a sugarcat. It is very overwhelming when you read all this information - there's definitely more here than a person could learn in a day. Just take it a day at a time. The important thing is to learn the basics first (and much more experienced members will give you some good starting tips). We all do our best and you will too. :bighug:

Learning how to administer insulin correctly, knowing how to recognize hypoglycemia, and basic diet needs are the best places to start. I can say with all honesty - giving my sugarcat, Joshi, her insulin shots is not hard at all. I'm even getting over my squeamishness of doing home testing and am pleasantly surprised at how Joshi has taken it all in stride. You've come to a great place to learn what you need to do.
 
The first thing I'd like to say is Welcome and we are so glad that you found us. I well remember how overwhelmed and scared I was when I first got the news from my vet. There is a very steep learning curve at first but with time and some experience combined with the vast knowledge and kindness of people here on FDMB you can do this and help your furry friend to feel better. Breathe and know we are here to help you. :cat:

As for your questions about feeding I can tell you that when I switched my Radar to low carb wet food - below 10% carbs is the suggested type of wet food here- his blood glucose readings dropped significantly. considering a food switch first for your kitty before you start insulin is not a bad idea. I feed Weruva brand which my cat loves. If you visit the website there is lots of information provided about their ingredients. I hope this is helpful. Please let us know what else we can do to help.
 
Hello and welcome to you and your sugar kitty.

Changing from a high to low carb diet can significantly lower blood glucose (BG) levels in a very short space of time. It can therefore be advantageous to make the food switch before starting insulin because you won't be juggling changing insulin dosing requirements at the same time. That said, provided you are home testing and monitoring insulin dosing requirements right the way through the transition it can be managed safely.

I know you're feeling nervous right now; pretty much all of us here did, too. I must say I was really impressed with the general grasp you have already got of what's involved in the management of feline diabetes. You are going to do just fine. :cat:

You asked for some tips on home testing. Here are some very helpful threads (especially the ear diagram in the first one).

Testing and Shooting Tips (with diagram)

Home Testing Links and Tips (with videos)

One tip I wish I'd had when I first started home testing was to make sure you warm the ear for a good bit longer than you might think necessary. I didn't warm Saoirse's ears enough in the early days and I found it tricky getting a sample. As soon as I started warming the ears for a good bit longer we had much more success.



Mogs
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Hi there and welcome. So glad you found us as there is a wealth of information here. You ask about meters and lancets. Are you in the States?

Meters: There are many meters. There is a pet meter called the Alpha Trak2 and human meters. Some use the pet meter because it is what the vets use so the numbers will match up. The meter and strips are expensive though. Most use human meters that can be purchased at any pharmacy. It typically reads a little lower than the pet meter but we have ways of compensating it. Many use Walmart's brand, Relion Micro because it only needs a tiny drop of blood. The Relion Prime uses a little bigger blood sample than the Micro but the The Prime testing strips are ½ the price of the Micro. The Prime strips are 50/$9 and the micro is about double that. It is the strips where you expense will be.

Lancets: There are many different sizes (gauges). It is recommended when you are first starting out to use a 26-28 gauge. Also, it would be a good idea to pick up Neosporin WITH pain reliever to apply on the edge of the ears and don't forget to alternate ears.

Also about Food:
You will want to consider changing your food to wet, low carb food if you are currently feeding high carb dry.. It is recommended to feed food that is under 10% carbs. You will note that the food with fish are lower in carbs however it is recommended that you only give fish once a week due to its mercury content. Many of us feed Fancy Feast CLASSICS, 9 Lives, PATE, Friskies Pate and Wellness NO GRAIN. Notice that I have in caps the particular type within the brand because not all flavors within a brand are low carb. This list can also be found inwww.catinfo.org If you are already giving insulin and you have not transitioned to wet, low carb cat food, be sure to test while you are transitioning. This is because by changing to low carb food, it could decrease your kitty’s number by 100 points or more. There is no reason to give your cat RX food from the vet as it is too expensive and NOT low enough in carbs for our sugar cats.

US Food Chart
foodchart

Post again when you know what insulin he will be put on so we can guide you to the appropriate forum for advise on that particular insulin. Keep asking questions, that is how we all learned, we are here to help you.
 
One brand of food I have a fondness for is Weruva brand. They are a little pricey and I'm not sure they are available in Canada. Here is a link for their nutritional information, you'll want to scroll down to the Dry Matter Basis: http://www.weruva.com/truluxe-nutrition.php
If you can't buy it off the shelf maybe you could order from one of the numerous companies online. It is a really good option.
 
My cat's BG dropped signicantly when removing dry food from his diet. Also vet stress can raise BG 100 points or more. Dental issues can also raise BG. While you are waiting for the fructosamine results you could start testing and remove the dry food. If you are switching to a new food you may want to change slowly to avoid tummy upset. Some good food options would be Wellness grain free, many of the Weruva cans (pouches are high carb) Tiki Cat, Merrick Pates (turkey looks good) Many of the raw brands. I've used the primal freeze dried raw turkey. There are lots more. Stay away from anything with gravy. Since he is an older kitty you may want to limit phosphorus to under 1% if possible (as in the chart that was linked above). Also limiting fish is a good idea because of mercury.
 
I would be hesitant to trust the fructosamine results as a solid diagnosis of diabetes since that only tells you what the glucose levels have been for the past week or so and it's highly likely that the tooth issues had already raised your kitty's glucose levels and then of course there was likely vet stress elevation as well. All of those factors could result in a fructosamine test looking like his glucose levels have been higher than they usually are. If I were you, I'd try the diet change and do some home testing before starting insulin because there are a number of factors here which could have raised the BG levels to those high levels.
 
Welcome to FDMB! You have come to the right place for support. There are a lot of caring and experience folks here. You will be given a whole lot of information and at first, it will seem very overwhelming however in a couple of weeks, things will start falling into place.

Good Reading: This is a must read. It is an excellent 18 page informative document that covers feline health and nutrition. Don't take short cuts and read it all. www.catinfo.org Also read other postings and their spreadsheets. You will learn a lot more from others.

Home Testing: Here, we all home test. It is mandatory to understand how your kitty is reacting to the insulin and the dose. You will want to test before each shot and some additional test in between the 12 hour cycle. Another reason to home test is to keep your kitty safe. Find a place in your home where you will always perform the test and give lots of hugs before and after testing. There are many videos showing you how to test. Hometesting Links and TipsHere is a picture of where you test on your kitty. http://s106.photobucket.com/user/chupie_2006/media/testingear/sweetspot.jpg.html

Here is another good link on Home Testing:http://www.felinediabetes.com/bg-home-test.htm

Meters: There are many meters. There is a pet meter called the Alpha Trak2 and human meters. Some use the pet meter because it is what the vets use so the numbers will match up. The meter and strips are expensive though. Most use human meters that can be purchased at any pharmacy. It typically reads a little lower than the pet meter but we have ways of compensating those lower numbers. Many use Walmart's brand, Relion Micro, Relion Prime or Relion Confirm. The Micro and Confirm only needs a tiny drop of blood but the strips are a little more expensive than the Prime. The Relion Prime meter needs a little more blood than Micro and Confirm. They cost around $15 and the strips are around 35 cents each.

Lancets: These are used to poke the ear to get blood. There are many different sizes (gauges). It is recommended when you are first starting out to use a 26-28 gauge. Also, it would be a good idea to pick up Neosporin WITH pain reliever to apply on the edge of the ears and don't forget to alternate ears.

Spreadsheets: Our spreadsheet instructions are here. If you look at the signatures of the members here, you will see a link to their kitty’s spreadsheets. We keep track of all our tests. This is basically a place to collect data and help you to determine patterns, doses, etc. It also aids those that may be helping you to better understand your kitty.

Food: There are many reasons why we are here but one is due to feeding dry cat food which is high in carbs. You will want to consider changing your food to wet, low carb food. It is recommended to feed food that is under 10% carbs. Here is a list of cat food to choose from food chartyou will note that the food with fish are lower in carbs however it is recommended that you only give fish once a week due to its mercury content. Many use Fancy Feast, 9 Lives, Friskies, etc. This list can also be found in www.catinfo.org If you are already giving insulin and you have not transitioned to wet, low carb cat food, be sure to test while you are transitioning. This is because by changing to low carb food, it could decrease your kitty’s number by 100 points or more. One last thing, many of us add water to the wet food so your kitty is getting plenty of water to flush out the toxins and to keep them hydrated.

Hypo Kit: Always good to be prepared for possible hypo events which means that your cat has reached dangerously low numbers. It can be fatal, hence, the importance of home testing and collecting data in a spreadsheet. In each of the Insulin Forums are stickie’s labeled Hypo Links. Here is one: How to Handle a Hypo. Please print and post on your refrigerator so everyone in your household is aware of hypo symptoms. You will want to create your hypo kit that would include and not limited to; extra testing strips, honey/karo/maple syrup, high carb food, medium carb food, vet information, etc.

Ketones: Diabetic cats are susceptible to diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA). It is best to buy testing strips that will measure (if any) ketones in the urine. One brand is Ketostix which can be found at Walmart or any pharmacy. You will want to test periodically unless you continue to get high numbers, then it is suggested to test more frequently. Ketostix typically costs around $10.

Treats: It is always nice to have treats available for your kitty especially when testing or when they decide not to eat. I like using Pure Bites. I have found it at Petsmart and other pet stores. It is freeze dried and the only ingredient is the meat i.e. chicken, duck, etc. If your cat likes it, then I would go to the dog section where it is cheaper than the cat package. It is bigger chunks but no problem in breaking it up. Another option is to use Bonita Flakes. There is a link here somewhere that has a list of low carb treats but I don't have it right now.

Injections: Most folks here use one of these main insulins; Lantus, Levemir and Prozinc. Two hours prior to your insulin shot, you will not want your kitty to eat. Then you will test and then feed. It is best for your kitty to eat a little before your shoot. I shoot while he is eating. The reason why you do not want your kitty to eat two hours prior to your test is because food elevates BG numbers. So you do not want to dose based on a food influenced number. Here is a link on how to give injections.http://www.felinediabetes.com/injections.htm

Note: Please check your insulins as there are some (the harsher ones like Humulin, Novolin, Vetsulin, etc.) that would be best to allow some time i.e. 20 minutes, after your kitty has eaten before you shoot.

If you have any questions, please be sure to here again.
 
Hello there,
I am also pretty new to this whole thing too. I agree with everyone that diet is the first thing you should change. Remove the dry kibble from kitty's diet and feed low carb wet food.
As soon as I did this, my kitty responded well. The BG testing numbers went lower.
I use Tiki Cat wet food. It has no glycemic impact. (The non-rice ones) Have 0 carbs. My cat loves it and his coat is super silky as a result. I also use Vital Essentials, Vital cat Freeze Dried Whole Meat treats and food to take care of his teeth and his need for crunchy food. It is also a low to no carb food. (It's just meat not kibble)
You can check www.chewy.com for better prices on food for kitty.
As others have mentioned, there are cheaper food options available from common brands, Like Fancy Feast and the like. It really depends on your budget and needs of course.

Welcome to the forum. Everyone here is very nice and helpful kitty lovers. This is such a great resource for dealing with this scary issue. I certainly know how it feels since my kitty was only diagnosed next month.
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