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Kelly68

Member Since 2013
Hello. My name is Kelly and I am new to this site. Have visited it numerous times, but after the news yesterday from my vet, figured it was time to now join. I live in WI and have a multiple pet household. I used to run a non profit aquatic fish rescue for several years til too many health problems got in the way. Had to shut it down.

I am 45 years old, mom of three and one grandbaby (another due in Sept). There hasn't been any point in my life where I didn't have pets. My kids were raised to respect and be responsible pet owners as well. We have taught them that ANY pet deserves a chance at a loving caring life. No matter what. They are not to be tied up in the back yard, let roam free, etc. If you take on a pet, you take on a huge undertaking and commitment for their lifespan.

I just wish there was more than I could do within my means to help save more unwanted, abused and neglected animals but our household is full to the brim with what we have. If money wasn't an object believe you me, there would be another no kill shelter going up here in WI. Now for the reason why I joined this site.

I love my pets with all my heart. My vet is more than patient with me and knows how well I take care of everyone. I have a multiple cat household. And to be honest, I have never fed top of the line foods, but not the bottom of the barrel foods either. I guess I haven't really given it a whole lot of thought to how important wet foods in a cat's diet are. About four years ago or so, one of my cats developed feline diabetes. He is back to being healthy and striving despite the fact I never switched foods. Having multiple cats, it would be so hard to keep food away from one cat and treat it different. Kitty Kitty has done well on the insulin, is a sassy maine coon male. Two years later, our biggest cat Tony starting to display the same symptoms. His got to the point he had neuropathy bad in his back legs. We struggled for over three months trying to regulated his insulin. He just was not responding. But I am close to DRS Foster Smith and they recommended for me to try a human insulin, fraction of the cost and try that. Within a couple attempts he took to that. Now both Kitty Kitty and Tony have been on Humilin N (Novalin N) sold at Walmart. They have been doing wonderful, still despite the fact that considering cost now of having two diabetic cats, I still didn't get it with the whole food deal.

Well, I have been keeping an eye on my other cat Tucker. He has been losing weight rapidly, he isn't a big cat to begin with like Kitty Kitty and Tony. So it was easier for me to spot his weight drop quickly. He is developing neuropathy and went to the vet yesterday. My vet came in and shook his head and said, I was floored when Tony tested positive a few years back. In his whole practice he only has a handful of diabetic cats but for a single household, having two is unheard of. So to his amazement he came in with the news that Tucker's glucose level was almost at 700. We now have a third to add to my mix. We went over all my cats, none who have this are related. Only thing is they do eat the same food. But so do the rest of them who are healthy, or is that just a matter of time?? He asked me if I was considering putting Tucker down. I told him that never even crossed my mind. Even though it will be extremely hard now with three, it is not Tucker's fault he has a treatable condition. And as a responsible pet owner I need to do what is right by him.

We went over the nutritional value of the food they were getting and he brought me back numbers of what to strive for. Now I am not playing any more games. I will have to switch food for EVERYONE and struggle how to make this huge adjustment. But I cannot keep going if it is the food causing this, who else is going to suffer? I cannot separate who gets what when at what times so it just has to be that everyone gets the same diet. Sure can't hurt to better that. So I have been on a mission since the news yesterday. My vet is trying to encourage me to learn how to test at home. It will cost me 40 a week to take Tucker in til he is regulated or buy my own testing and do it at home. I told him yesterday I didn't want any part of trying that. Then I got to thinking, I didn't think I could ever give them shots either but I did.

Everything that I have read here and on DR. Lisa's write up I learned a lot. But I do know in order for my first two to transition from their old food to new stuff, you really need to watch their glucose levels and insulin intake. Only way to do that is to test at home. I can't take three in weekly. :( So this part is ALL new to me. I called two different vets today (as mine was closed today) just to see what kind of meter they use or recomment because I was going to buy everything this weekend and get in next week to compare readings with the vet. One said they use the One Touch Mini. Second one said they are all pretty similar, but go to the site AlphaTrac and check out their meters. Well.......

This is what I read on that site: "Humans, dogs, and cats all have different makeups of blood, specifically the difference in the ratios of glucose in plasma and red blood cells. While dogs have 87.5% of glucose in plasma and cats have 93%, humans only have 58%. This is significantly lower. If you use a human meter on a dog or cat, it assumes human glucose distribution in blood to calculate glucose levels, which may result in underestimation of blood glucose concentrations and inaccurate readings. To get accurate blood glucose readings on your diabetic dog or cat, you must use a blood glucose monitor made specifically for dogs and cats. AlphaTRAK Blood Glucose Monitoring System is calibrated specifically for dogs and cats."

SO........now I am more confused more than ever. I read on here that people have good success with the Relion Micro (I was actually looking at their newer on Relion Prime as the strips are only $9 for 50). I had all my stuff in the cart, the meter, strips, lancing device and needles. But got scared and put it all back after reading that. This is an area I need convincing that what that said really isn't true that the other meters work as well.

I searched all night and day for a good food. My husband and I went from pet store to pet store searching foods and their nutritional analysis. Was finding a few that were close to 48% in protein but lower in fat than what my vet wanted. I read the best really is EVO, but more searching found it has been totally recalled and so many problems. Because I never looked I did find in the next city from me there was a nice health food pet store. So my mom and I went in there and they confirmed that EVO was recalled and all their stock got sent back. She showed me a few more. Next in line was a product called Orijen. This is a dry food. They also carried CAll of the Wild and Fromm (which I got a few small sample bags to try). For wet food they carried Wellness, Fussie Cat and Weruva. Which I grabbed a total of 6 cans for trial and error. I read that cats need wet foods. Optimal would be for an all wet diet. But I was hoping if I get a great quality dry (to nibble on during the day) and still give them one meal of wet per day as well to suppliment. BUT....this is going to kill me. With all my cats we go thru quite a bit a food. For a 15 lb bag of Orijen, it is $50. I don't think there is anyway I can swing that. I did buy a five lb bag today just to see how they would like it and they acted liked they haven't eaten in weeks. I was amazed! Thought it would be bland and it would take some doing to get them to try it, but I was wrong. Whatever it is I get, I have to mix with what they are eating now and slowly tapper off the old. And keep testing the ones who are on insulin as the change takes place. This is a huge overwhelming feat.

I just don't know what to do. I am trying to do what is right for them. And if they are getting sick by the food then the solution is changing food. I just hoped it wouldn't cost three times more. So, I appreciate any and all suggestions. Both on foods and meters. Also gauge size.

Thank you all who ever reads my LONG post. I have quite the story to share. Hoping I can get support by others who know what I am goign through. Have a great night.

Kelly
 
Hi Kelly and welcome to the FDMB, the best place you never expected to be.

Thank you for the background. It does help.

Food - A lot of us feed Fancy Feast classic pates, Friskies pates or Wellness canned food. Lower cost, ok nutritionally. You might want to read this article from Dr. Lisa Pierson on cat nutrition. http://www.catinfo.org/

http://www.catinfo.org/docs/FoodChartPublic9-22-12.pdf Look for foods that are < 10% carbs.

Treats - low carb healthy treats for your diabetic cats. http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9172

Meters - Alphatrak reads about 30 points higher than a human glucometer. I parallel tested alphatrak and Relion Confirm with my cat Wink. Look at his SS in my signature to see the variations.

The test strips are where your major cost will be. Relion confirm 36 cents each test strip, 0.3 microliter blood drop. Relion Prime 18 cents each test strip, 0.5 microliter blood drop. Alphatrak test strips are $1 each or more.
Insulin - currently Novolin N . We'd like to see you using an insulin with a longer duration than the NPH types. Lantus, Levimir PZI, Prozinc are all appropriate for diabetic cats.
 
Thank you for the reply. I will double check those sites but did go thru them last night and this afternoon. Her article was extremely helpful. Again, I would like to still use dry food but add a wet one in as well. So a combo.

As for the insulin, again, my first cat was on the PZI. And a different one I can't recall (think it was Vetsulin). But when the second one got added he would not respond at all to them. Every week it just kept going up and up and the vet was floored he didn't respond at all. Only one he did was the Novalin N as last ditch effort. So he switched my first cat to it as well. They have both been on it now for two years. It is a twice a day shot. Morning and evening. They are both doing extremely well and would like to keep it that way. Glucose is controlled. Weight is stable. Health is great. For three months, week after week back and forth to the vet with all the more expensive insulin. I am hoping with the improved diet, maybe they can go down and if God is looking out for them, maybe possible remission. I know that is a LONG shot but can only hope. I know it isn't the IDEAL insulin, but it is what is working for them. Not all cats are the same.

I will have to check again with the Relion Prime. The pharmacist told me it was a .3 blood drop.

I know we will get thru this. Just overwhelmed right now.

Kelly
 
It can be overwhelming at first. Doesn't matter that you have already gone through this sugardance with 2 of your other cats already. Three is going to be a challenge. We will try to help you as much as we can with ideas. Tell us what works and what doesn't and we will try to come up with other ideas. We have lots.

I will have to check again with the Relion Prime. The pharmacist told me it was a .3 blood drop.
The sample size I quoted was directly from the Relion Prime User Manual
These capillary action test strips require
only 0.5 micro-liter (μl) of blood and provide
an end-fill sample application tip for easy
blood application. The ReliOn® Prime Blood
Glucose Monitoring System measures the
amount of glucose (sugar) in fresh capillary
whole blood.

Full user manual is available online here: http://www.relion.com/content/diabe...testing/instructions/7957-00 Prime Manual.pdf

But I cannot keep going if it is the food causing this, who else is going to suffer? I cannot separate who gets what when at what times so it just has to be that everyone gets the same diet. Sure can't hurt to better that.
Couldn't agree with you more. Trying to feed a different diet to one cat than all the others is a huge challenge. When I fostered Wink, I switched everyone to the same feeding schedule, same food. My other cats did not like having to wait for their food until Wink got his test and insulin shot but that is the way it had to be. They adjusted and love the Friskies pates and Fancy Feast Classic pates. If Wink doesn't eat his fast enough, they are happy to polish it off for him.

I was hoping if I get a great quality dry (to nibble on during the day) and still give them one meal of wet per day as well to suppliment.
Again, I would like to still use dry food but add a wet one in as well. So a combo.
It's not just the quality of the dry food, but the carb content which will make a difference. There are a couple of dry foods that are lower carb than the Orijen you bought and might help a great deal with the BG control for a diabetic cat.

1. Natura/Innova Evo Cat & Kitten 8% carb but it has been hit by another recall.
2. Young Again Zero Carb, mail order only, expensive, some cats refuse to eat the different sized chunks, a couple of cats have achieved remission on this dry food. Manufacturer claims 0% carb but carb calculators indicate 5%
3. Nature's Variety Raw Instinct chicken 7%
4. Wellness Core Grain-Free Original Formula (tan gold bag)11%

Most dry foods are coated with animal digest and that is what cats love the taste of. There is a product called Fortiflora that you can buy to sprinkle on the canned food. Similar to the animal digest coating of the dry foods and cats love the taste.
 
If you tell us where in Wisconsin you live, there may be a member that would be willing to help you learn to hometest.

How many cats do you have? I know you have at least 3. That's how many I have right now. We have at least 2 members I know of with 14 cats.
 
Thanks again for the help. My vet gave me numbers to "strive for" when it comes to finding a new food. The nutritional analysis for the dry food was 48% protein, 20.7% fat, and nothing more than 15.5% carbs. While searching different pet stores and looking at their foods, I noticed that Purina ProPlan (which is $30 bucks a bag..but better than $50) does have some really high protein products. Between 40-45% protein. Fat content is like 14%. But on 80% of the bags we looked at, they do not list the carb content. And I know that is important so it's really frustrating. Even on their sites it doesn't list it so I think phone calls to the companies are the next option.

I know the EVO was ideal, but their issues with keeping their foods on the shelf and a few recalls have thrown me off for now on that product.

I don't have that many cats. I have a total of 9. All were rescued and given a chance to live. All are altered. Very well taken care of. I know to some that is a lot. And at times like this, it does get stressful. But I wouldn't do it any different. I feel that is the least I can do when their are millions others out there that are not as lucky. My vet has taken care of all of them from the get go. They are starting to get up there in age. I live in North Central WI. About a half hour away from Rhinelander (where DRS Foster & Smith is located).
 
Here is a list of some dry foods and their carb content. List has not been maintained or updated in several years,, since 2008, so you will not find some foods on this list. http://binkyspage.tripod.com/dryfood.html

There is also a way to calculate the carb content from the "as fed values" for a number of the ingredients. You have to get this from the manufacturers and they can be stubborn sometimes about giving the data out.

Dr. Lisa Pierson did this for the canned cat foods food chart that we use. It was months of work.

Your vet advised <15.5% carbs but we have learned that dropping that carb content to under 10% can make a big difference in controlling the BG (blood glucose) numbers.
 
Thanks again. I have a list of a few companies to call tomorrow. I also am going to call my vet and ask about the meters again. So I can get the ball rolling on that. Once I get that, I will feel so much more comfortable starting the food change. One thing I don't want is to have a cat drop too low. Had that happen only once and it was terrible to witness a cat having a seizure. Feel so helpless. But I have Karo syrup on hand just in case, God willing, I don't need it.

I will check out the Fancy Feast. With never feeding wet, I really don't know what the appropriate amount for them to eat is. So how long will one can feed, one meal, two meals, etc. (per cat of course). And when people made the transition from dry to wet, will this give the cats diarrhea?

Kelly
 
We usually calculate needed calories with (ideal weight * 15 calories) + 70. Then for uncontrolled diabetic cats, add up to 50% more calories.

Fancy Feast average can has 90 calories. So a 10 pound cat would need 220 calories or 2.5 cans FF. A diabetic cat is literally starving, burning up fat and then muscle so may need 3-4 cans Fancy Feast.

Friskies, about 2 5.5 ounce cans is not unusual. The appetite does taper off once the BG's are under control.

Switching from dry to wet food can upset the stomach and cause diarrhea or vomiting. Take it slow, only switching a little bit of food at a time.
 
Kelly68 said:
Thanks again. I have a list of a few companies to call tomorrow. I also am going to call my vet and ask about the meters again. So I can get the ball rolling on that. Once I get that, I will feel so much more comfortable starting the food change. One thing I don't want is to have a cat drop too low. Had that happen only once and it was terrible to witness a cat having a seizure. Feel so helpless. But I have Karo syrup on hand just in case, God willing, I don't need it.

I will check out the Fancy Feast. With never feeding wet, I really don't know what the appropriate amount for them to eat is. So how long will one can feed, one meal, two meals, etc. (per cat of course). And when people made the transition from dry to wet, will this give the cats diarrhea?

Kelly

Hi Kelly,

OK, the very worst wet food is better for your cats than the very best dry food.
Buy yourself a bunch of Friskies Pate flavors, you can get 13oz cans, and pack up all the dry to donate to a shelter.

For all you know, you are needing to give N insulin to your cats because of the bad food.....what dose are you giving to the 2 cats?

I am not sure how you know that your cats are doing well on N insulin if you are not home testing, so you can pick up a Relion blood glucose meter, test strips and lancets, and start testing your 3 cats at home. I am betting within days, you will be an expert! Testing is the secret to knowing if your cats are really doing well in their numbers, or just acting better.

Start testing as soon as you can, and you don't need to discuss a thing with the vet about testing.
You want to know what your cats' numbers are with the N you are giving now and the food they are eating. If their numbers are still very high, you may be able to switch right onto all wet food, but if their numbers are not too bad, you may need to lower the dose when you change the food.

Just imagine..... you may not have any diabetic cats once everyone is eating low carb wet food.

Gayle
 
Hello Gayle.

Kitty Kitty gets 7 units twice a day
Tony gets 10 units twice a day

both Tony and Kitty Kitty are bigger cats. Kitty Kitty is maine coon and Tony is an orange tabby. Tony is all muscle. He is a big boy very little fat. He goes about 22 lbs.

Tucker just got started out at 1 unit twice a day. He is a lot smaller cat than the other two.

I was told to give them their shots around same time day and night. So it works out for 10am and 10pm. 12 hrs apart. The food they have is left out all day. So if they are hungry they will go eat. None of the cats go and sit and eat,eat, eat. They go up to grab a few bites and off the go. Seems like Kitty Kitty and Tony know "when" to eat. As well as waiting for me most days for their meds.

As for the meter, it IS ok to buy a human meter and disregard what that one site said? I was more than willing, had everything in my cart Relion Prime meter, Prime test strips, Relion Lancing device and the ultra thin lancets. There is 33 gauge, 30 gauge and 26 gauge. I figured I would start out with the 26 gauge unless told different.

Guess I was under the impression the Prime was still .3 ul. And that is what the pharmacist told me as well. Both of us are wrong. Is .5 ul harder to achieve to look for a different one??
 
The Relion Confirm uses a 0.3 microliter blood drop. When you are first learning to home test, it can be hard to get a blood drop that is big enough for the Relion Prime.

The quote you had was from the Abbott Laboratories website. Of course, they are going to say what they need to, to convince vets and diabetic cat owners to use their meter. Before they saw a lucrative part of the market, there were no pet specific meters like the Alphatrak. They saw a way for the company to make money. If you have the money to spend $100 or more for the Alpahtrak meter and then about $12 a day to test your 3 diabetic cats, 4 times a day, then yes, go for the Alphatrak.

Most of us would rather put that money to better use, like cat food.

I would estimate that 95% of us on this message board use human glucometers. We have learned what the reference ranges are for using a human glucometer with a cat.

Even those of us that start out using an Alphatrak, like I did, usually quickly switch to a human glucometer for the lower costs.
 
I couldn't agree more with spending unnecessary money on expensive meters. That is the reason for the question. Hope you can understand.
 
Kelly,

A lot of new information for you today. You might want to go back through the topic and review. See if there is any information we need to clarify or something we missed answering.

Hang in there. The first few weeks are the hardest. Remember to take some time for yourself and breath.
 
First of all Hurray for you for taking in strays!!! I so applaud you for your compassion. Second, double-hurray for wanting to get them on better food! When I was transitioning my brood I got all that fancy and expensive pet food (canned - I have a great pet nutition center near me). Mine really liked the Weruva and the BFF at first but then started to waste it. Since I was supplementing my sugarcat with Fancy Feast Pates, I decided to see if small doses of FF snacks in between their raw diet could help alleviate their off-dry food hunger. This seemed to work very well. So in between their raw food meal, all my cats get some FF poultry pate (low carb) but the best part about this is that they are only 54cents a can at Walmart. I have been transitioning for three months and they are less fretful between meals (without the dry) and are not as hungry for the snack now but they like that it is there for grazing. It really comes down to educating yourself about their needs and the best schedule and then the routine and menu become clear. It takes time and patience but it is worth it.

All your questions and concerns will be addressed here by the most compassionate group of members, ever. Bring it all here and they will take care of you. I did and they answered. Welcome!
 
Hello all.

Want to start off by saying thank you again for all the advice, help and kind words. This site is a wonderful site with compassionate people who do not judge others. I was afraid to say how many cats I do have, but I am not ashamed by any means. Just others sometimes judge people without knowing all details.

With that being said, I went out and bought a Relion Micro meter and all supplies. This was kinda against my vets advice as they were trying to sell me the AlphaTrac and was trying to give me the "talk" on how human meters should not be used. And by the time they calibrate the one I have to theirs the money I will spend would have added up to theirs. ON and ON. Then another vet in my city was trying to tell me they don't recommend ANY meter whatsoever. That they recommend bringing the cat in and having blood drawn instead. Cause all these meters do it slice the ear of a cat and in no time (their exact words) "the cats ears will look like shredded meat." So it's been a roller coaster ride.

Haven't converted yet to wet, gonna add that tonight. Orijin has been introduced and given daily. I am going slow because I do have cats that have sensitive tummies and changes cause diarrhea. I didn't need another mess to deal with. So hoping the slow process will help.

Tucker goes to the vet tomorrow. It will be one week since he was seen last. He is a hungry boy. Wants to eat all the time. Drinks a lot still. But he does feel like he is putting on a bit of weight which is a good thing cause he lost so much. Seems like the one who are eating the Orijin are thirstier and peeing more. Not sure what is up with that one. I will ask again what Tucker's reading was last week and start to make a log. Once the appt is over, starting over the weekend I will start my home testing, so hope others will be around here to help with any questions. Plus to help me understand what the numbers mean.

Again, thanks everyone.

Kelly
 
We have a saying here that "every cat is different" and over time I realize so is every vet. My vet told me to home test, said a human meter was fine and that he didnt want to do a curve and testing in the clinic because its costly and inaccurate. He helped my first cat into remission as a result. And I realize now what a good vet he is.

I test both my boys ears every day, multiple times, for over 18 months and their ears are nowhere near shredded. In fact I doubt you could even tell they get tested!

Many of us compare our meters to the vets alphatrak.. And they are pretty close.. Enough to be within error of the meter.

Good luck at the vet tomorrow and let us know how you get on and what help you need, questions and so on..
 
Then another vet in my city was trying to tell me they don't recommend ANY meter whatsoever. That they recommend bringing the cat in and having blood drawn instead. Cause all these meters do it slice the ear of a cat and in no time (their exact words) "the cats ears will look like shredded meat." So it's been a roller coaster ride.

Well, I only needed to test Wink for a couple of months before he went OTJ. Maybe 300 pokes. In that time, his ears never got to look like 'shredded meat'. He did move his head once just when I poked the lancet in and tore a tiny 1/16 slice in his ear. Feral and free roaming cats get into fights and such and their ears look ragged.

I did shave a tiny patch on his black ears so I could see the blood drop when I poked. His fur has since grown back and you can't tell that I ever test him. Since the testing now is only once a week, I don't feel the need to shave his ears any more. Plus, the testing got easier as I practiced.

There are members here that have been testing their cats thousands of times. You would not notice any difference in their cats ears than you do for someone who has never done the ear pricks.

Yes, the vet wants you to bring your cat in for blood draws. That is a source of income for the vet. If you home test, how is the vet going to make money?

And by the time they calibrate the one I have to theirs the money I will spend would have added up to theirs.
No need to have your vet 'calibrate' any meter you buy to their meter. Simply tell your vet your human glucometer reads about 30 points less than their Alphatrak 2.
 
Thanks.

I know that about the meter, that is why I am glad I did my research and asked on here before I got sucked into their advice. So thank you for that. I only told you guys all the stuff just to get a feel what I am dealing with here for vets.

May I ask a question?? What do you mean OTJ and when you talk about the foods like Fancy Feast...you guys always refer to pates. What do you mean. Hope these are not dumb questions. :oops:

I will post here tomorrow after we get settled back from the vet tomorrow afternoon. Wet food feeding tonight was somewhat successful. Two out of three of the diabetic ones ate like pigs. Third one put his nose up in the air. He may be big, but he sure if picky. He will not take to the Orijin or any wet. When he was sick a long time ago we tried everything from cooking him chicken breasts, hamb and rice, any and all wet food, raw tuna and salmon, etc etc. Wants NO part of anything. But he needs his meds so I am kinda forced to keep his food out. :(

Nite all.
 
I know that about the meter, that is why I am glad I did my research and asked on here before I got sucked into their advice. So thank you for that. I only told you guys all the stuff just to get a feel what I am dealing with here for vets.
I figured you knew about the meter. I can see you are having a "challenging time" shall we say, with finding a vet that is current on feline diabetes management?
May I ask a question?? .... Hope these are not dumb questions.
There are no dumb questions and no oops here. Ask all the questions you want, as many times as you need, until you understand. There is a lot to learn here and I compare this to a crash course, college master's degree level, in managing feline diabetes. You are graded on a pass/fail basis and everyone passes. ;-) Lessons are on an as needed basis. You tell us what you need and we try to answer as best we can. Someone will know the answer. OK?

You should never be embarrassed to ask a questions or think it's dumb. We forget sometimes and I apologize for not explaining better. Trying not to overwhelm you and we try to keep it simpler sometimes and end up not giving you enough information.

and when you talk about the foods like Fancy Feast...you guys always refer to pates What do you mean.
Canned food comes in different styles. Pates are ground up fine and sort of mushy. There are many styles of the Fancy Feast foods, labeled on the cans, and they are categorized into styles like Classic, Marinated Morsels, Grilled, Sliced, Tender, Flaked, Chunky, Kitten, Roasted, Gravy Lovers, Miscellaneous and then there are all the Elegant Medley varieties of Fancy Feast. As a general rule, we look for foods with less than 10% carbs in the 3rd column of numbers on this food chart :idea:

The Fancy Feast Classic, Tender, Chunky, Flaked, Kitten and Turkey & Giblets Feast in the Miscellaneous category are all low enough carb for a diabetic cat, <10%. Pick up a few of the Gravy Lovers and label the cans with a magic marker as HC or high carb and put in your hypo toolkit, just in case. :idea:

May I ask a question?? What do you mean OTJ
OTJ is shorthand for off-the-juice. Insulin being the juice. So OTJ means no longer needs insulin, or in remission, diet controlled with low carb food.

Sorry, I forgot that not everyone knows what our jargon means and where the glossary is glossary You might want to bookmark it. To do that, you click on the link and then at the bottom of the page, there is a little piece of text that says "bookmark this topic". You can then find it in your user control panel later to reference it. I have several topics bookmarked for quick reference. It's one way I can pull up information quickly to help people.
 
Kelly68 said:
Thanks.

I know that about the meter, that is why I am glad I did my research and asked on here before I got sucked into their advice. So thank you for that. I only told you guys all the stuff just to get a feel what I am dealing with here for vets.

May I ask a question?? What do you mean OTJ and when you talk about the foods like Fancy Feast...you guys always refer to pates. What do you mean. Hope these are not dumb questions. :oops:

I will post here tomorrow after we get settled back from the vet tomorrow afternoon. Wet food feeding tonight was somewhat successful. Two out of three of the diabetic ones ate like pigs. Third one put his nose up in the air. He may be big, but he sure if picky. He will not take to the Orijin or any wet. When he was sick a long time ago we tried everything from cooking him chicken breasts, hamb and rice, any and all wet food, raw tuna and salmon, etc etc. Wants NO part of anything. But he needs his meds so I am kinda forced to keep his food out. :(

Nite all.

You mentioned doses of 7u and 10u and that's N... harsh insulin and you need to be home testing before you switch them to all wet food. Who was the cat not taking to the wet food?
The reason the cats were not responding to the other insulins would be the dry food. If your cats are very carb sensitive, you will need to keep giving them a high amount of insulin. When you switch to wet, low carb, you won't need to give as much insulin..... your cats could come crashing down and hypo.

So, first thing, get the most economical meter and strips and lancets. The Relion meters are just fine.
Start testing right away and post with whatever problems you are having and let others here help you with suggestions. Once you are testing, you will see EXACTLY how N is affecting your cat's numbers.

The next thing will be to switch to the wet food AND lower the insulin dose, just so your cats don't come crashing down.

You WILL want to switch to a better insulin; I would suggest you go with Lantus or Levemir because they are longer lasting than any of the vet insulins. You may find out that one of your cats still needs a higher dose, so you will want the longer lasting insulin. ... you said Tony is a big boy, no fat all muscle and getting a dose of 10 twice a day.... if you find he does not need less insulin on wet food, he may have an insulin resistance issue, but first things first.... start home testing and switch to wet food.

You can select from Dr. Lisa's list, but if you want to save more money, you can feed the store brands of wet food, just stick to pates and avoid any that are grilled, gravies, or marinated. The carbs are in all those sauces. If it is easier on you to get the 13oz or even the 21oz of wet foods, that's fine. I fed my two the 13oz cans of Friskies pates.
catinfo.org/docs/FoodChartPublic9-22-12.pdf
Gayle
 
We use reference numbers for cats developed on human glucometers, so there's no issue with using them. Its like the difference in reading temperature in Fahrenheit vs Celsius.

some of the reference numbers using human glucometers are:

< 40 mg/dL - treat as if hypo; almost always earns a dose reduction.

40-50 mg/dL - may need to steer with food or treat as if a hypo if soon after the shot, (pre-nadir, ie pre-lowest point in cycle). Often earns a dose reduction

50-130 mg/dL - pretty good control

180-280 mg/dL - may be above the cat's renal threshold, the point where glucose starts spilling into the urine. Different references give slightly different numbers, hence the range. An individual cat's renal function may be a factor in determining the threshold. Testing for ketones regularly is recommended.

> = 280 mg/dL - test for ketones regularly; control has not been obtained. Evaluate for infection (raises glucose), diet problems (high carb foods, or contraband from other food sources)
 
Thanks everyone. I will post more later. Tucker's vet visit went well. Compared the Relion Micro to the vets. He is still very high and up'd the dosage. Not at home where the numbers are. Feeding wet food twice a day, morning and night. Orijin dry is left out for nibbling. I have found that the cats are not eating hardly any of their old food. Which is great. Even Tony, my big boy who throws his nose up at EVERYTHING up eating out of the Orijin bowl not his normal stuff. He was the one I worried about the most. He still refuses any wet food whatsoever. But I guess his liking the better dry is still better than nothing. Has to eat to get his shot. Still introduce it all the time to him, in case I finally found a wet he likes. Picky man.

Anyhow, I will post more when I get home later. Thanks again everyone.

Kelly
 
Yeah on a good vet visit for Tucker. :RAHCAT Hope he wasn't too stressed out at the vets.

Bet he'll be happy to get home.

Waiting for your news.
 
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