Hi Julie and welcome. Glad you came right to the Prozinc forum. Below are the instructions from the Prozinc company regarding doses. I agree with Sue that maybe you just half the dose at first so at least Molly doesn't run high the last 12 hours. Also, I wonder if your vet took test throughout the night to come to the conclusion that Molly retained the insulin longer than normal. Typically Prozinc is an in/out insulin and doesn't last more than 12 hours and at least no longer than 14 hours. Also I am going to give you a whole bunch of other information that you can read too. Looks like you already got a leg up on some of the supplies.
The chicken treats are Pure Bites and you can get at Petsmart, Petco, etc. Just check the ingredients to make sure that it only says chicken.
Also regarding the testing. practice going through the motions with Molly including giving the treats without doing the poke through the day or night. That way, she won't associate the poke every time.
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Here is information from the Prozinc company that you can give to your vet and it states:
The initial recommended ProZinc dose is 0.1 – 0.3 IU insulin/pound of
body weight (0.2 – 0.7 IU/kg) every 12 hours. The dose should be given
concurrently with or right after a meal.
Here is the link to this document. If you go 2/3 down the page, there is a link to a downloadable PDF file. Once you download this document, this statement can be found under "Dosage and Administration."
https://www.prozinc.us/prozinc.html
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Good Reading: This is a
must read. It is an excellent 18 page informative document that covers feline health and nutrition. Don't take short cuts and read it all.
www.catinfo.org Also read other postings and their spreadsheets. You will learn a lot more from others.
Home Testing: Here, we all home test. It is mandatory to understand how your kitty is reacting to the insulin and the dose. You will want to test before each shot and some additional test in between the 12 hour cycle. Another reason to home test is to keep your kitty safe. Find a place in your home where you will always perform the test and give lots of hugs before and after testing. There are many videos showing you how to test.
Hometesting Links and TipsHere is a picture of where you test on your kitty.
http://s106.photobucket.com/user/chupie_2006/media/testingear/sweetspot.jpg.html
Here is another good link on Home Testing:
http://www.felinediabetes.com/bg-home-test.htm
Meters: There are many meters. There is a pet meter called the Alpha Trak2 and human meters. Some use the pet meter because it is what the vets use so the numbers will match up. The meter and strips are expensive though. Most use human meters that can be purchased at any pharmacy. It typically reads a little lower than the pet meter but we have ways of compensating those lower numbers. Many use Walmart's brand, Relion Micro or Relion Confirm, because it only needs a tiny drop of blood. They cost around $15 and the strips are around 35 cents each.
Lancets: These are used to poke the ear to get blood. There are many different sizes (gauges). It is recommended when you are first starting out to use a 26-28 gauge. Also, it would be a good idea to pick up Neosporin WITH pain reliever to apply on the edge of the ears and don't forget to alternate ears.
Spreadsheets: Our spreadsheet instructions are
here. If you look at the signatures of the members here, you will see a link to their kitty’s spreadsheets. We keep track of all our tests. This is basically a place to collect data and help you to determine patterns, doses, etc. It also aids those that may be helping you to better understand your kitty.
Food: There are many reasons why we are here but one is due to feeding dry cat food which is high in carbs. You will want to consider changing your food to wet, low carb food. It is recommended to feed food that is under 10% carbs. Here is a list of cat food to choose from
food chartyou will note that the food with fish are lower in carbs however it is recommended that you only give fish once a week due to its mercury content. Many use Fancy Feast, 9 Lives, Friskies, etc. This list can also be found in
www.catinfo.org If you are already giving insulin and you have not transitioned to wet, low carb cat food, be sure to test while you are transitioning. This is because by changing to low carb food, it could decrease your kitty’s number by 100 points or more. One last thing, many of us add water to the wet food so your kitty is getting plenty of water to flush out the toxins and to keep them hydrated.
Hypo Kit: Always good to be prepared for possible hypo events which means that your cat has reached dangerously low numbers. It can be fatal, hence, the importance of home testing and collecting data in a spreadsheet. In each of the Insulin Forums are stickie’s labeled Hypo Links. Here is one:
How to Handle a Hypo. Please print and post on your refrigerator so everyone in your household is aware of hypo symptoms. You will want to create your hypo kit that would include and not limited to; extra testing strips, honey/karo/maple syrup, high carb food, medium carb food, vet information, etc.
Ketones: Diabetic cats are susceptible to diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA). It is best to buy testing strips that will measure (if any) ketones in the urine. One brand is Ketostix which can be found at Walmart or any pharmacy. You will want to test periodically unless you continue to get high numbers, then it is suggested to test more frequently. Ketostix typically costs around $10.
Treats: It is always nice to have treats available for your kitty especially when testing or when they decide not to eat. I like using Pure Bites. I have found it at Petsmart and other pet stores. It is freeze dried and the only ingredient is the meat i.e. chicken, duck, etc. If your cat likes it, then I would go to the dog section where it is cheaper than the cat package. It is bigger chunks but no problem in breaking it up. Another option is to use Bonita Flakes. There is a link here somewhere that has a list of low carb treats but I don't have it right now.
Injections: Most folks here use one of these main insulins; Lantus, Levemir and Prozinc; glad you are using Prozinc. Two hours prior to your insulin shot, you will not want your kitty to eat. Then you will test and then feed. It is best for your kitty to eat a little before your shoot. I shoot while he is eating. The reason why you do not want your kitty to eat two hours prior to your test is because food elevates BG numbers. So you do not want to dose based on a food influenced number. Here is a link on how to give injections.
http://www.felinediabetes.com/injections.htm 
). Many of us had very uncooperative kitties at the start. (Remember the Tasmanian devil in the old Looney Tunes cartoons? That was my Bat-Bat! But now she actually sits quietly in the "meatloaf" position for her little ear prick.)
