Ann and Murphy and Tom
Member Since 2010
I'm looking for a video teaching how to do the ear sticks. Tom and I are at a roadblock with my "technique" and I'm hoping I can improve things.
Looking for video
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Chris & China (GA)
Member Since 2013
This is on of the best ones but once you're on the YouTube channel watching it, you'll see a bunch of others over on the right to look at too
Ann and Murphy and Tom
Member Since 2010
Thank you @Chris & China ... Buddy looks just like my Tom! I'm still burrito wrapping Tom...maybe I should try just letting him sit in my lap. It may be the wrapping he is fighting?
Chris & China (GA)
Member Since 2013
A lot of cats do much better with less restraint so I'd give it a try!!
Here's something I wrote up for others that needed help with testing...maybe it'll help you too!
It can be really helpful to establish a routine with testing. Pick one spot that you want your "testing spot" to be (I like the kitchen counter because it's got good light and it's at a good height....it also already blocked 2 escape routes due to the wall and the backsplash) It can be anywhere though...a rug on the floor, a table, a particular spot on the couch...wherever is good for you. Take him there as many times a day as you can and just give his ears a quick rub and then he gets a yummy (low carb) treat. Most cats aren't objecting so much with the poking..it's the fooling with their ears they don't like, but once they're desensitized to it and learn to associate a certain place with the treats, they usually start to come when they're called! Or even when they hear us opening the test kit!
You also have to remember...you're not poking him to hurt him...you're testing him to keep him safe and understand what's going on inside his body. There's just nothing better than truly understanding what's going on inside your kitty's body and with this disease, the more knowledge you have, the more power you have against it. The edges of the ears have very few pain receptors, so it really doesn't hurt them. Also, if you're nervous and tense, it's going to make your kitty nervous and tense too. As silly as it might seem, try singing! It forces you to use a different part of your brain!
It's also important to make sure his ear is warm. A small sock filled with a little rice and microwaved or a small pill bottle filled with warm water (check temp against your wrist like you would a baby bottle) works well.
When you're first starting, it's also important to use a lower gauge lancet, like 25-28 gauge. Most of the "lancet devices" come with 33 gauge lancets and they are just too tiny to start with. The bigger lancets (that are lower numbers) make a bigger "hole". As you poke more and more, the ears will grow new capillaries and will be easier and easier to get blood from...we call it "learning to bleed"
Finding the right "treat" will be a great help too! Freeze dried chicken, bonito flakes, little pieces of baked chicken...whatever low carb treat you can find that he really enjoys will help him to associate the testing with the treat! China's Achilles heel was baked chicken, so I'd bake a piece, chop it into bite sized pieces, put some in the refrigerator and freeze the rest to use as needed. It didn't take long for her to come any time I picked up the meter!
Here's something I wrote up for others that needed help with testing...maybe it'll help you too!
It can be really helpful to establish a routine with testing. Pick one spot that you want your "testing spot" to be (I like the kitchen counter because it's got good light and it's at a good height....it also already blocked 2 escape routes due to the wall and the backsplash) It can be anywhere though...a rug on the floor, a table, a particular spot on the couch...wherever is good for you. Take him there as many times a day as you can and just give his ears a quick rub and then he gets a yummy (low carb) treat. Most cats aren't objecting so much with the poking..it's the fooling with their ears they don't like, but once they're desensitized to it and learn to associate a certain place with the treats, they usually start to come when they're called! Or even when they hear us opening the test kit!
You also have to remember...you're not poking him to hurt him...you're testing him to keep him safe and understand what's going on inside his body. There's just nothing better than truly understanding what's going on inside your kitty's body and with this disease, the more knowledge you have, the more power you have against it. The edges of the ears have very few pain receptors, so it really doesn't hurt them. Also, if you're nervous and tense, it's going to make your kitty nervous and tense too. As silly as it might seem, try singing! It forces you to use a different part of your brain!
It's also important to make sure his ear is warm. A small sock filled with a little rice and microwaved or a small pill bottle filled with warm water (check temp against your wrist like you would a baby bottle) works well.
When you're first starting, it's also important to use a lower gauge lancet, like 25-28 gauge. Most of the "lancet devices" come with 33 gauge lancets and they are just too tiny to start with. The bigger lancets (that are lower numbers) make a bigger "hole". As you poke more and more, the ears will grow new capillaries and will be easier and easier to get blood from...we call it "learning to bleed"
Finding the right "treat" will be a great help too! Freeze dried chicken, bonito flakes, little pieces of baked chicken...whatever low carb treat you can find that he really enjoys will help him to associate the testing with the treat! China's Achilles heel was baked chicken, so I'd bake a piece, chop it into bite sized pieces, put some in the refrigerator and freeze the rest to use as needed. It didn't take long for her to come any time I picked up the meter!
Ann and Murphy and Tom
Member Since 2010
Thanks for the added information. We'll see how well it goes before breakfast!
Kris & Teasel
Member Since 2016
I agree with the advice about trying less restraint. With treat training over time you should be able to make it into a time for extra attention/affection. If it's adversarial they'll learn to fight it and resent the procedure. I use treats very freely around shot/test times.
Tuxedo Mom
Member Since 2014
I also agree with less restraint. My second FD kitty never liked to be restrained even before the FD. When doing the ear pokes I initially held her between my legs with a towel around her to prevent her going forward. She would twist and turn and it was impossible to do the ear test. I found that if I held her loosely between my legs and just kept an arm around her chest she struggled less. Now she sits fairly well..although she is not thrilled to death she doesn't squirm and try to get away. With her, the "treat" is chin rubs and a brushing, which she loves...she is not as food motivated as her brother is 
AJHJ
Member Since 2016
I sit Bunny on my lap. Someone else on the forum suggested singing to your cat through the whole testing procedure and I found that to be a great suggestion. I think sometimes they fuss and struggle a bit in reaction to the nerves the pick up on from us--more so than to the actual testing. Singing sends relaxing vibes and helps both you and the cat be calmer. It sounds silly, perhaps, but was one of the best bits of advice I received.
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