Hi everyone! First post!

[Link]

Hi everyone!

Just registered here, but I've been on the FDMB website a few times since my fuzzy friend "Tango" was diagnosed diabetic about a month and a half ago and I thought it would be best to get in with the community to swap advice and ask questions!
It's nice to meet you all and I hope in the end I can help you as much as I know you can help me :smile:

 

[MelanieP and Ninja]

Welcome to you and Tango. This is a great site and the people here have helped me enormously, within a very short period of time. Glad you are on board!!!

 

[rhiannon and shadow (GA)]

Yes, Welcome! I've been here a short time and I have already learned so much from reading other posts. My newest lesson is that my accu-chek fastclix setting was too low and
that was why I wasn't getting a blood drop. I had to turn it up to a 3 1/2 and that only takes one try now instead of multiple unsuccessful punches.

It's all the litle details that everyone talks (writes) about that can make great differences :smile:

 

[Julia & Bandit (GA)]

Welcome! I think you'll find that there's always something to learn here! :smile:

The 3 pieces of major advice we give to anyone new to feline diabetes are having the right food (low carb canned), the right insulin (long acting), and making the right dosing decisions by home testing your cat's blood sugar levels. When these three treatment guidelines are all followed together, the majority of cats go into diet-controlled remission and no longer need insulin. Bandit has been in remission for almost 2 years now, and he's far healthier now than he was before the diabetes! I know for us the diabetes was almost a blessing in disguise because it forced me to learn and make very important changes that improved my cat's overall health.

So with that in mind, if you tell us the food and insulin you're giving, as well as if you're home testing, we can give you some great advice to help you out! Many vets are often unaware of some or all of the current recommended treatment guidelines for cats.

 

[Link]

Thanks everyone for being so receptive!
It's great to know that there is somewhere I can go to talk to who've been through the same thing! It was so terrible when Tango was first diagnosed, everyone in the house was feeling it, but I'm glad that I've got you guys to come to :smile:

Bandit has been in remission for almost 2 years now, and he's far healthier now than he was before the diabetes! I know for us the diabetes was almost a blessing in disguise because it forced me to learn and make very important changes that improved my cat's overall health.

So with that in mind, if you tell us the food and insulin you're giving, as well as if you're home testing, we can give you some great advice to help you out! Many vets are often unaware of some or all of the current recommended treatment guidelines for cats.

That's wonderful! I'm so happy for you and Bandit!

The problem is that Tango is no kitten :YMSIGH: I think he's about 14 now, so we weren't holding out much hope for remission any time soon... As wonderful as it would be! Has anyone else had an older kitty that's gone into remission? I know it sounds unlikely, but I guess if not we'll have to manage anyway...

We've been giving him "Intervet Caninsulin 40IU/Mil", on recommendation of the Vet I think, and "Hills Prescription Diet M/D" Low-Carb Cat Food, but he's become a bit of a fussy eater and doesn't normally like it, so we've been feeding him cooked plain chicken and fish as well. He's currently on about 6 units a day (an injection of 3 at 8 in the morning and 3 at 8 in the evening).

We haven't been home-testing yet; it's me and my mother looking after him, and we're worried that we might not be able to keep up with the testing times, both working full days and all. There's a lot to learn pretty quickly and we get confused and lost in it all sometimes :sad:

Oh one more thing, recently we've noticed poor Tango's been a bit wobbly on his hind legs and sometimes he's been standing on the flats of his legs a bit more, which he's never done before. I understand that this is neuropathy to do with the Diabetes, and looking around (on this website even!) I saw about Methyl B12- does this work? I'll gladly start getting it and popping a bit in his fish if it helps! Is anyone else here using it right now, or have they? Would they recommend a good brand or something?

Thanks for everything!

 

[Julia & Bandit (GA)]

The problem is that Tango is no kitten :YMSIGH: I think he's about 14 now, so we weren't holding out

There's no age limit on remission! Bandit is no spring chicken, either. As long as Tango does not have any other secondary health conditions, he will most likely go into remission if you pursue the recommended treatment for cats. 14 is certainly not that old for a cat!

We've been giving him "Intervet Caninsulin 40IU/Mil", on recommendation of the Vet I think, and "Hills Prescription Diet M/D" Low-Carb Cat Food, but he's become a bit of a fussy eater and doesn't normally like it, so we've been feeding him cooked plain chicken and fish as well. He's currently on about 6 units a day (an injection of 3 at 8 in the morning and 3 at 8 in the evening).

Unfortunately, your vet does not have you on the right treatment plan for Tango. Is this a vet that is open to suggestions and changes? If not, you may need to find a new vet.

Caninsulin is the recommended insulin for dogs, but it is NOT a good insulin for cats. Cats' metabolisms are twice as fast as dogs, so the insulin is only working for about 4-8 hrs. That leaves about half the day where his blood sugar is not being controlled by insulin, so he is very high. The recommended insulins for cats are Lantus (glargine) and Levemir (detemir), which are both 24 hour human insulins that you can get at any pharmacy (If you're in Canada you don't need a prescription). Because these last 24 hrs in dogs and humans, they will last 12 hrs in a cat. If you shoot every 12 hrs, your cat will have controlled blood sugar the entire day. Prozinc is also an acceptable insulin for cats, which lasts 8-10 hrs in cats. Here is a link to the diabetes guidelines for the American Animal Hospital Association, which you can print out and bring to yoru vet: http://www.aahanet.org/PublicDocuments/AAHADiabetesGuidelines.pdf. See p. 218, under "Insulin therapy in the cat" where it states: The insulin preparations with the appropriate duration of action in most diabetic cats are glargine(U-100) [Lantus] or the veterinary-approved human protamine zinc insulin(PZIU-40) [Prozinc]. This panel does not recommend the veterinary-approved porcine zinc(lente)[Caninsulin]insulin suspension as the initial treatment for the cat, because its duration of action is short and control of clinical signs is poor." I would highly recommend changing insulins as soon as you can. Tango will most likely get progressively worse on the Caninsulin because it is unable to offer adequate blood glucose control in cats.

Are you feeding the canned Hills M/D food or the dry? Neither is low enough in carbs for a diabetic cat, even though it claims to be. I would highly recommend changing to a low carb, canned diet. You don't need the prescription food, and many cats don't like it and won't eat it anyway. Hills uses some awful ingredients (the M/D you're feeding has wood pulp (cellulose) in it, look at the ingredients) and is not only a waste of money, it worsens the diabetes. Any commercial canned food that is low carb (less than 10% carbs) is good to feed a diabetic cat, and there's a ton of choices! Here's a link to the cat food nutrition charts that list the carb content of many different foods. Just pick one less than 10%, but preferably below 8%. You can also find and compare the carb content of the Hills food to less expensive, better quality foods. http://www.felinediabetes.com/diabetic-cat-diets.htm However, do not change the diet to low carb unless you're testing and lowering the dose of insulin. 3u is a rather high dose of insulin for a cat (most cats on a low carb canned diet do not need much more than 1u of insulin twice a day), and many cats will drop 100-300 points with the diet change. 25% of cats go into spontaneous remission, so you are risking a deadly hypoglycemic incident if you are not testing and lowing the dose.

We haven't been home-testing yet; it's me and my mother looking after him, and we're worried that we might not be able to keep up with the testing times, both working full days and all.

Home testing is the only safe and effective way to administer insulin. It seems hard at first, but after a week or so you and Tango will have the hang of it and it will only take you a minute to get a test. I worked a full time job with a 2 hour commute, a part time job, and was going to graduate school when Bandit was diagnosed. I managed to test Bandit just fine, it just required a little adjustment of my schedule. You want to try to get at least 3 tests a day--once before each shot to make sure it's safe to give insulin, and a test somewhere towards the middle of the cycle to see how much the insulin has lowered his blood glucose. This is the only way you can safely adjust his insulin dose. Shooting blind is not only ineffective, it is also very dangerous. Home testing is not an option; it's a necessity.

Oh one more thing, recently we've noticed poor Tango's been a bit wobbly on his hind legs and sometimes he's been standing on the flats of his legs a bit more, which he's never done before. I understand that this is neuropathy to do with the Diabetes, and looking around (on this website even!) I saw about Methyl B12- does this work? I'll gladly start getting it and popping a bit in his fish if it helps! Is anyone else here using it right now, or have they? Would they recommend a good brand or something?

Yes, Methyl B-12 works wonders for neuropathy! Bandit never had neuropathy because he started out on Lantus, but I am currently using it with Sydney, a friend's cat that I am helping treat his diabetes. This is the kind we get, and you just mix the contents of one capsule in with his food once a day. Syd started out in the same boat as Tango--He's 14 years old, and his vet gave him Humulin-N (a human insulin very similar to Caninsulin), put him on the Hills prescription food, and was not having her home test. 4 months later, he was on 5u twice a day, and his diabetic neuropathy was so bad he could not walk or use his litter box. His owner finally got a hold of me and asked for help, and I had her change the food, start home testing and switched his insulin to Lantus. Because she wasn't testing, she didn't know that 5u was way too much insulin and that she was chronically overdosing her cat. Too much insulin will keep blood sugar just as high as too little insulin, because cats' livers will dump glucose into their bloodstream if they drop too low as a survival mechanism.

That was in November, and Sydney is starting his remission trial tonight! You can check out his spreadsheet if you want to see his progression: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...DRYN1NZSkRfeU1zc1JKODBiMUlicEE&hl=en_US#gid=0. His diabetic neuropathy has healed and he runs and jumps around my friend's house like a crazy cat now! Your treatment choices make a HUGE difference in managing your cat's diabetes.

 

[Link]

You're a wonderful person!

I don't think Tango has any other underlying health conditions. I'm so glad there's still hope that we could get him into remission!

Our vet is not the most receptive type. He's one of those "I'm the vet, you're just some cat person who reads things on the internet" Vets, from what I've gathered. Bit of a shame really. I did always wonder about that Caninsulin, I guess the clue was in the name really...
This is a real eye opener though, thanks. I don't want to badmouth the guy but it doesn't really seem much like the Vet knows what he is doing with poor puss :sad: I'm in the UK, so I'm not sure how that will affect me getting my hands on the right insulin, but I'll have to try!

Worryingly, we were actually feeding him the dry AND the canned foods. Of course he didn't really like the canned food, but is loving the Fish and Chicken! Do you really think that they will be no good, and that we'd better start buying in special low-carb stuff (that isn't utter rubbish made from trees)?

I'd be fine with the home testing in the morning and evening, but it's during the day that I'd worry. I'm not sure either of us could get home to test pussycat during the midday working full time 5 days a week, how did you manage it? Would it need to be an exact time or could it just be roughly approximate, (Midday-ish)?

I'm so so glad that you managed to point out that this could lead to worsening condition this soon though! My mum was considering having Tango put down if he showed no signs of improvement over the coming weeks; thanks for helping me stop her from making a horrible mistake!

 

[Julia & Bandit (GA)]

I'm traveling this weekend but on Monday I will post the link for diabetic safe foods overseas.

I gave Bandit his shots at 7 am and 7 pm, and when I was working full time during the week I would get a test before bed at 10pm, and I set an alarm and got his mid-cycle test at 1 am, and then would go right back to bed. I would get a curve on the weekend during the day. I know getting up or staying up late seems like a pain, but it was absolutely worth it.

 

[squeem3]

There are European canned food suggestions here: http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=64843

Here are UK specific foods:
http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?p=33786
http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?p=100531
http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?p=147875
http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/view ... p?p=346123

You can get Lantus (glargine) insulin in the UK. There are UK members here who use it.

I'd be fine with the home testing in the morning and evening, but it's during the day that I'd worry. I'm not sure either of us could get home to test pussycat during the midday working full time 5 days a week, how did you manage it? Would it need to be an exact time or could it just be roughly approximate, (Midday-ish)?

You don't need to test multiple times daily. At the very minimum you need to test before giving each insulin shot. You can do random blood glucose tests whenever you can. This can be done in the evening. I was working full time when I had a diabetic cat and could only do the morning pre-insulin test, the evening pre-insulin test plus maybe a test or two before bedtime. On weekends I was able to do more testing.

 

[Link]

There are European canned food suggestions here: http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=64843

Here are UK specific foods:
http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?p=33786
http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?p=100531
http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?p=147875
http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/view ... p?p=346123

You can get Lantus (glargine) insulin in the UK. There are UK members here who use it.
You don't need to test multiple times daily. At the very minimum you need to test before giving each insulin shot. You can do random blood glucose tests whenever you can. This can be done in the evening. I was working full time when I had a diabetic cat and could only do the morning pre-insulin test, the evening pre-insulin test plus maybe a test or two before bedtime. On weekends I was able to do more testing.

I set an alarm and got his mid-cycle test at 1 am, and then would go right back to bed. I would get a curve on the weekend during the day. I know getting up or staying up late seems like a pain, but it was absolutely worth it.

That's perfect! I don't know why I didn't think of that, thanks both of you!

Should I get the 5000 mcg Methyl B-12? I might get this, http://www.amazon.co.uk/Jarrow-Methyl-B ... 866&sr=1-9 Do you think I'd need that much?

Would it not be OK to keep him on a diet of cooked chicken/fish and the Hills dry food to supply his carbs? Or would I definitely want to switch entirely to a kind of food like those you've listed? I'll definitely work on changing his insulin and getting my hands on a testing kit somehow ASAP!

 

[Carl & Polly & Bob (GA)]

Would it not be OK to keep him on a diet of cooked chicken/fish and the Hills dry food to supply his carbs?

You don't need to worry about supplying any carbs. Cats actually have no dietary requirement for carbs. They get all the sugar/energy they need from turning protein and/or fat to glucose:

Cats, like all animals, require six classes of nutrients: water, energy, protein, essential fatty acids, minerals, and vitamins. Cats do not have a dietary requirement for carbohydrates. The metabolic requirement for glucose in the cat is derived from protein (glucogenic amino acids) and fat (glycerol). Cats are adapted to a protein- fat-rich, carbohydrate-poor diet.

Great page on Feline Nutrition:
http://maxshouse.com/feline_nutrition.htm

Carl

 

[squeem3]

Would it not be OK to keep him on a diet of cooked chicken/fish and the Hills dry food to supply his carbs? Or would I definitely want to switch entirely to a kind of food like those you've listed? I'll definitely work on changing his insulin and getting my hands on a testing kit somehow ASAP!

Is it plain chicken and fish? Those are ok in moderation as long as you are feeding regular cat food. Limit the chicken and fish to no more than 10% of your cat's diet.

Yes, do switch your cat's regular food from the Hills dry food to a low carb canned/tinned food. Dry food is so full of carbs which keeps blood glucose levels really high and makes it really hard to regulate blood glucose levels. In fact, dry food is one reason why so many cats end up diabetic in the first place. Prescription food is full of unhealthy junky ingredients. It's the equivalent of candy, potato chips, and cake. The right diet is important for your diabetic cat, just like it is for Human diabetics.

You can buy a Human blood glucose meter (glucometer) at any Human phamacy/druggist store. I htink the AccuChek brand is available in the UK.

 

[Link]

Is it plain chicken and fish? Those are ok in moderation as long as you are feeding regular cat food. Limit the chicken and fish to no more than 10% of your cat's diet.

You can buy a Human blood glucose meter (glucometer) at any Human phamacy/druggist store. I htink the AccuChek brand is available in the UK.

Thanks, I'll take a look around for a glucometer tomorrow. Yes, we just feed him plain cooked chicken and fish, with a little of the Hills dry food. When I get rid of the Hills, why would I need to change from the chicken and fish? Just curious. Will it not provide him with the nutrition he needs?

 

[Sue and Oliver (GA)]

Check out this website by a vet. www.catinfo.org. She explains what supplements a cat needs in her descriptions about a raw diet and what supplements need to be added to the protein.. Meat like chicken is great for snacks and treats but not as a daily diet.

 

[Link]

Sorry to still be clogging up the board with this post, but I still have some questions about starting testing and changing Tangos food and Insulin, it's all a bit overwhelming :smile:

Yesterday I purchased an Accu-Chek Aviva Blood Glucose System. I think I understand that I can use it to take Tangos blood from a vein in the ear, much like in this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zE12-4fVn8
Would I be right to use a new test strip and lancet each time? I understand that there are 6 lancets per drum, but would buying these this often get expensive? Is it even the right kind of test meter to use?

I was thinking of getting this in the way of insulin- http://www.digipharm.co.uk/buy_generic_insulin_online/ Does that sound about right for someone in the UK?

We'll start testing and make the switch to different insulin and low-carb catfood when we get it, but how should we do that?
I understand we should start testing before we switch the food and insulin, but how would we go about changing from Caninsulin to Lantus? Would I lower his dosage right away? What values are normal, how would I know if he's having too much or too little insulin? What about when I change the food, do I lower his dosage straight away?

I'm sorry I seem so "all over the place" with this, but it's just so confusing, there's so much to think about!

Thank you all so so much for helping me so far!

 

[Sue and Oliver (GA)]

It is confusing! We all asked lots of questions and expect you to do the same.

I'm not familiar with your meter, but as long as it sips and takes a tiny sample, it should be fine. Yes, use a new lancet and strip each time. The strips are the expensive part of this. We buy them on EBay at half the price in stores. Can you do the same in the UK?

In general a regulated diabetic on insulin ranges from mid200s at preshot to 100 and lower at midcycle, but not under 40 (which is on the low end and would need intervention). Divide these numbers by 18 to get your metric numbers.

If I were you, I would get testing down. I'd change the food. Then I would add the insulin (if the numbers are high enough to warrant it). Start with a low dose and get the data that will show you how it is working.

It sounds overwhelming but we will help you every step of the way.

 

[Carl & Polly & Bob (GA)]

HI again,
You're hardly clogging up the board, so don't worry about that. Everyone is always encouraged to ask any questions that arise, so don't hesitate.

That video is one of the better ones I have watched on YouTube, so yes, that's how it's done. This drawing might help out with finding the "sweet spot" on the ears too.


I used a relion micro meter, but I think the one you got is a good one. You don't have to use the same lancets in the future. I'm not sure what is available in the UK, and I didn't use the device at all, I just "Free-handed" the small lancet itself. Again, not sure what is available to you, but a box of 50 lancets only costed about 3 or 4 dollars at Walmart here. You won't want to reuse them, as they get dull each time you use them. But if you can find a cheap alternative, that wouldn't be an issue.
The strips are "one-time use" items.

The sequence of events from now forward would be...
learn how to home test first. That way you can get a good idea of what the BG is now, on the current diet and insulin. About the insulin....you mentioned that you were giving 6u doses? Has that changed?

Once you get some numbers, post them here, and we'll be able to better help with dosage. Most likely you will lower the dose as you change the diet to low-carb, and you'll be able to see the difference on your meter from the diet change.
Most likely you will lower the dose when you switch insulin, but again, it's all going to become evident what that dose should be once you get some data.

So, start testing, and leave the diet alone for a couple of days. The numbers you get will help us and you figure out the dose.
Then we can work on lowering the dose while modifying the diet.
And then we can help you to figure out what the dose should be on the new insulin.

Carl

 

[rhiannon and shadow (GA)]

Well I have the accu-chek aviva plus so I can answer you about that. It's a very good meter, one of the more accurate ones.
I really like it except I didn't my research before hand and the test strips are expensive. And while you are learning to get a blood droplet from the ear,
you will waste more than you want.
The strips can only be used one time. They won't work a second time. And you want to touch the end to the drop of blood because it sips it. If your droplet
is too small of a sample , you will get an error message and have to get a new strip. (read the quick start brochure, it's very good at explaining
and test on yourself to get famliar with it.)
It works very well to get me neosporin ointment ( cream won't work) to put on the ear tip. Get the one with pain relief and put a ittle on before you stick
the ear with the lancet. It helps the blood puddle better and not get lost in hair.
The lancet can be used more than once but each time dulls it a little so I tend to limit to 3 times, usually I am having to try that many times each time I test anyway. Start on setting 4 and move up if you aren't getting any blood. You and I have a finer gauge lancet so it needs to be on the higher setting until our
kitty ears learn to bleed more readily. ( I hear they will over time)
Do yourself a favor and go shop online for more test strips to find a good price. You don't wantto run out and buy at the closest store, some places really
overcharge. Get them on order so you can save money. Order lancets too.

http://www.felinediabetes.com/bg-test.htm
shows the spot on the ear that is best. Try to spend some time exploring all over the felinediabetes website because almost everything we need to know is
there if we just go thru it.

Someone has already posted the UK canned food list to you so I won't repeat that. Try to find the ones with the lowest carbs. 10% or less.
YOU asked the right question....... changing to canned food only and dosage.
If you are starting up with Lantus (or any other one) then even if your vet gives you a higher starting dose, you should
start at 1 unit twice a day. Try to maintain a 12 hr schedule because that's how the insulin works so pick a time before you go to work so you can do the same time in the evening. ( Yep , you've lost some freedom to run off and not be home)
You need to give the diet change some time to take effect. It will affect your numbers right away up to 100 drop in the glucose reading measurement.
That's how important the canned only diet is. It shows up right away by dropping kitty's glucose level.
the 1 unit start also helps you while you are learning how to do the bg testing. It is a lot of trial and error and frustration. But you figure it out pretty fast
and all the little things that you think you are doing wrong, we have all done them too. And then there is your Tango, also having to adjust to all the new
life changes.

Also... Tango may be a little hungrier at first switching to the new low carb, hi protein diet so let him have a little more. The diabetes has been starving
his body and he needs to catch up a little. His appetite will go back to normal soon. He's not going to overeat on protein. It's the carbs that cause all the problems.
You will want to find hi protein treats ( you already have chicken).
All the common treats like pounce and greenies are extremely high carb, they are even worse than dry cat food.
Give him treats every time you stick him. It helps keep him from running away from you. My kitty loves raw shrimp so I cut one up and give her little niblets
everytime I test her.

Many of us get the before breakfast/dinner glucose test (amps or pmps) reading and then give food. It's not as hard to give the shot to them while they are eating.
I haven't been as good at timing eating after the morning glucose test (amps) so I wait to do the test at least 2 hrs after breakfast. The 2 hr window after eating will give you a higher glucose reading.
But if I can't get the timing right, I don't withhold food from my cat just so I have good looking numbers. I just footnote it to myself in the spreadsheet
that the number reflects food was eaten and gives me a higher glucose number.

I hope I said this clearly enough. If not, ask for clarification.

 

[Link]

Thanks so much for all the help everyone!

The sequence of events from now forward would be...
learn how to home test first. That way you can get a good idea of what the BG is now, on the current diet and insulin. About the insulin....you mentioned that you were giving 6u doses? Has that changed?

Once you get some numbers, post them here, and we'll be able to better help with dosage. Most likely you will lower the dose as you change the diet to low-carb, and you'll be able to see the difference on your meter from the diet change.
Most likely you will lower the dose when you switch insulin, but again, it's all going to become evident what that dose should be once you get some data.

So, start testing, and leave the diet alone for a couple of days. The numbers you get will help us and you figure out the dose.

Carl

Thanks, working on that, will start testing once I've got the right testing kit nailed down :smile:

I think I saw some people who were testing on other areas too, maybe getting blood from the paw? I'm not so sure about it, but if Tango doesn't like me pricking his ears too much, has anyone else had any success with it?

Well I have the accu-chek aviva plus so I can answer you about that. It's a very good meter, one of the more accurate ones.
I really like it except I didn't my research before hand and the test strips are expensive. And while you are learning to get a blood droplet from the ear,
you will waste more than you want.

I see. I haven't opened the kit yet, I could still take it back. I don't want to sound tight-fisted or anything, but is there an accurate enough home test kit I can get in the UK with cheaper strips? I don't want to look like I'm pinching pennies or cutting corners on my cats health but every little helps and I really don't have too much money to spare :sad:

It works very well to get me neosporin ointment ( cream won't work) to put on the ear tip. Get the one with pain relief and put a ittle on before you stick
the ear with the lancet. It helps the blood puddle better and not get lost in hair.

I hadn't thought about anything like this, is it commonplace to use this stuff? What does it do, is it to dull the pain a bit and prevent infection? You're sure it's safe to use on cats? (I know you are already using it but I just don't want to take chances, you know )

The lancet can be used more than once but each time dulls it a little so I tend to limit to 3 times, usually I am having to try that many times each time I test anyway. Start on setting 4 and move up if you aren't getting any blood. You and I have a finer gauge lancet so it needs to be on the higher setting until our
kitty ears learn to bleed more readily. ( I hear they will over time)
Do yourself a favor and go shop online for more test strips to find a good price. You don't wantto run out and buy at the closest store, some places really
overcharge. Get them on order so you can save money. Order lancets too.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind if I stay with this kit. The stuff looks expensive enough online already :shock:

If you are starting up with Lantus (or any other one) then even if your vet gives you a higher starting dose, you should
start at 1 unit twice a day.
the 1 unit start also helps you while you are learning how to do the bg testing.

Do you go through all of this with your vet? I'm not sure how willing mine will be to listen and co-operate, he doesn't give a great impression...]
How do you get your insulin? Do you get it through the vet, or just buy it online like the link I gave in my last post? My Vet was the one who had me on the Caninsulin in the first place, so I'm not too sure how much he can help me...

Many of us get the before breakfast/dinner glucose test (amps or pmps) reading and then give food. It's not as hard to give the shot to them while they are eating.
I haven't been as good at timing eating after the morning glucose test (amps) so I wait to do the test at least 2 hrs after breakfast. The 2 hr window after eating will give you a higher glucose reading.
But if I can't get the timing right, I don't withhold food from my cat just so I have good looking numbers. I just footnote it to myself in the spreadsheet
that the number reflects food was eaten and gives me a higher glucose number.

I hope I said this clearly enough. If not, ask for clarification.

I like to think you did say it clearly enough, and it's just me being silly :lol: So err, do you take the reading before you give them food, or after? Or does it not matter as long as you acknowledge that the values are different because they're at different times?

Thanks again :smile:

 

[Sue and Oliver (GA)]

You might start a new thread and specifically ask for UK help. Other UK members should be able to suggest meters and the cheapest way to buy them. You can also check out insulin possibilities with them.

It's test, feed, shoot. The idea is that food can raise glucose perhaps in 15-20 minutes. You want a "true" test to base your dose on, not one artificially raised by food. With Canninsulin, which is harsher than other issues, you want to make sure the cat has eaten and the food will be staying in the cat before you shoot. Again, as Canninsulin tends to drop faster and sharper, you want to be sure they have food in their stomachs.

 

[Sue and Oliver (GA)]

Here's a video on paw testing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fRK7QY7ZEk

 

[squeem3]

Yesterday I purchased an Accu-Chek Aviva Blood Glucose System. I think I understand that I can use it to take Tangos blood from a vein in the ear, much like in this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zE12-4fVn8
Would I be right to use a new test strip and lancet each time? I understand that there are 6 lancets per drum, but would buying these this often get expensive? Is it even the right kind of test meter to use?

The Aviva is a good meter to use. It's cat-friendly. The test strips are pricey, though. Shop online for the lowest prices. Really, any Human blood glucose meter works well for a cat. Just avoid the FreeStyle brand and any brand that has "Tru" in the name. These are inaccurate.

Here's a list of meters available in the UK: http://www.diabetes.co.uk/diabetes_care/blood_glucose_monitor_guide.html

I never used the MultiClix lancet device that came with my Aviva. I think the Aviva meters now come with a different lancet device. The MultiClix was too fat for my small hands to comfortably hold. I used the SoftClixk lancet device which had come with the Advantage meter I was previously using.

Lancets are pretty cheap. The main expense are the test strips. A lancet is one-time use only but some people here use a single lancet for one day.

I was thinking of getting this in the way of insulin- http://www.digipharm.co.uk/buy_generic_insulin_online/ Does that sound about right for someone in the UK?

Yes, that is for Lantus (glargine) insulin. But it only lists the 10 ml bottle. Most people here use the Lantus SoloStar pens. They are much more cost effective than the 10 ml bottle. A box of five pens will last you at least 5 months while the 10 ml bottle might last a month or two.

 

[rhiannon and shadow (GA)]

It works very well to get me neosporin ointment ( cream won't work) to put on the ear tip. Get the one with pain relief and put a ittle on before you stick
the ear with the lancet. It helps the blood puddle better and not get lost in hair.

[]I hadn't thought about anything like this, is it commonplace to use this stuff? What does it do, is it to dull the pain a bit and prevent infection? You're sure it's safe to use on cats? (I know you are already using it but I just don't want to take chances, you know ) ][/quote

Actually, I read it here from others to use the Neosporin.
If it's on their ears, they can't really lick it off. It helps prevent infection.

You asked:
Do you go through all of this with your vet? I'm not sure how willing mine will be to listen and co-operate, he doesn't give a great impression...]
How do you get your insulin? Do you get it through the vet, or just buy it online like the link I gave in my last post? My Vet was the one who had me on the Caninsulin in the first place, so I'm not too sure how much he can help me...

My vet called it in to the local grocery store pharnacy and I am fairly certain the price was much higher than if I had taken the prescription and shopped
around, which I will do when it's time to refil.

[]I like to think you did say it clearly enough, and it's just me being silly :lol: So err, do you take the reading before you give them food, or after? Or does it not matter as long as you acknowledge that the values are different because they're at different times?][/quote


I think I am the only one who isn't taking the morning test before feeding any food.
The diet change showed up in my numbers right away. I've only been doing this for 9 days now.
I wanted to get more familiar with the procedures and my cat growls a lot when I am trying to lance her ear. I know she's not liking this.
Her bg is looking so good and I have looked up the time period that eating affects bg.
My vet says 2 hrs is enough time between eating and testing. I usually give it 2 1/2 hours just to be sure.

For me to get a fasting amps , I would have to get up at 5:30 am .
For 12 years my husband ( who naturally wakes up early) has fed her breakfast right after he gets up and takes the dogs outside. Then he feeds my
cat, then he feeds the dogs.
IF she doesn't get fed, she thinks she is going to the vet and goes and hides.

I just don't want to do that to her. Besides, I have been getting up to do a pmps nadir test and I give her food then too.
She gets her food in many smaller feedings and if I can't sleep, she's getting food during the night.


I would add that you should try to explore www.felinediabetes.com
You will find so much info there , most everything we are all saying.
And I learned even more by reading other peoples questions and answers. And I am able to offer help to others because I probably spent 10 x more
time reading and learning everything.
It was how I spent my energy because I was so worried that my time with Shadow was going to end too soon.
If I figure it out fast enough and get her better, she and I will have more time. God willing.

 

[Julia & Bandit (GA)]

Yup, the neosporin help prevents redness and infection (although as long as you're not re-using your lancets and putting pressure on the prick spot for 20 seconds afterwards you shouldn't have any redness or infection anyway). I found it helped a lot when I first started testing Bandit and I was poking him a lot because I had trouble getting blood--after a week or so of testing I didn't need it anymore. Another really important tip is to make sure you get 26-28g lancets instead of the 30-33g that come with your meter. The smaller lancets are really hard to get a drop of blood with, and it makes testing a lot harder. Cats have very few nerve endings in their ear, so it's not pain that upsets them in the beginning; it's that you're doing something new and scary and restraining them. After a week or two, they get used to it and settle right down, so don't give up!

Testing the ears is far easier than testing the paws in my opinion--I would not give up on the ears until you give them some time and practice before going to the paw pads (which are more painful for the cat to test because they do have a lot of nerves there). The first week I tested Bandit I was incredibly frustrated because he was clawing and biting and fighting me like crazy. I had to wrap him up in a blanket like a burrito in order to test his ears. But once he realized he got a treat after every test, he stopped fighting. Now when he hears the glucose meter beep on, he runs to his "testing" basket, jumps in, lies down and starts purring.

I have the Aviva Accuchek also, it's a great meter! The strips are expensive so I get them from either Amazon or Ebay where they are far cheaper than the store. I'm in the US though, so I'm not sure if that's true for the UK as well. If your meter came with the Multiclix lancet device (the one shown here), I would run to the store and get a simpler lancet device (if you want to use a device, some people freehand the lancet) because that thing is really hard to aim on a cat. You can use any brand lancet device, but an example of one that is simpler and easier to use on a cat is the Aviva softclix, shown here.

 

[Link]

Hi everyone, thanks again for helping me through this :smile:

It's been a while since last post but I think I'm finally getting my head straight.
I've got some Methyl B-12 and some Felix As Good As It Looks pouch food ordered- That should be here soon enough and I'll change him to a diet of only that when the time is right!
I have an Aviva Accu Chek test kit with a FastClix lancet that came with it- I've tried to get readings yesterday and today, but I've had some trouble trying to use it- Pussycat is a little stressed about it, and he's responding to me grabbing and pulling his ear with a bit of fidgeting, making it hard to get him in the right place! I've had limited success, but it's hard to get enough blood a lot of the time. I'm trying to use a sock filled with some hot, dry rice to warm up the ear before I try to take the blood, but I've not had much luck sometime :sad: I'm thinking practise and getting him used to it is going to help, but does anyone else have any other suggestions to help get blood? And does anyone else use the FastClix? I've got no idea if it's good, and I'm not sure I'm using it half the time! :lol:

Also, I understand that I should ideally be getting a reading before Tango eats, and I feed him after, but is there any particular time at which I should give him the insulin? Is it necessary for me to give it to him immediately after the meal, or can I do it any time as long as I have that 12 hour cycle?

As for insulin, does anyone in the UK here use those Lantus SoloStar pens that were mentioned? I've taken a look but I'm not sure I can get them except with a prescription. How do you UKers get your insulin? Do you buy online? Or go through your Vet? This is the last major unknown for me really, thanks for helping with it!

I'll keep at the testing and try again tomorrow and see if we can get some readings!

 

[Sue and Oliver (GA)]

You might try the lancet on yourself to become more confident (ouch! We have more nerve endings in our thumbs than cats have in their ears). If your lancet has a cover, you can take that off to be sure you are aiming for the sweet spot. And be firm - press the lancet on the ear tightly before you pull the "trigger"

Do you sure have something behind the ear to poke against? Lots of people use folded kleenix.

We had to put Oliver in a kitty burrito until he realized a treat was coming after each poke. We wrapped him up in a towel with only his head showing.

 

[Link]

You might try the lancet on yourself to become more confident (ouch! We have more nerve endings in our thumbs than cats have in their ears). If your lancet has a cover, you can take that off to be sure you are aiming for the sweet spot. And be firm - press the lancet on the ear tightly before you pull the "trigger"
Do you sure have something behind the ear to poke against? Lots of people use folded kleenix.
We had to put Oliver in a kitty burrito until he realized a treat was coming after each poke. We wrapped him up in a towel with only his head showing.

I don't think it does have anything like a cover that I can take off without disassembling the device, and that might not be such a great idea :lol:

Yeah, I've been trying to put some folded tissue paper on the inside of his ear and pressing against it, but maybe I need to look into getting a different lancet or perhaps just being a bit more firm when I try to get the blood. And Kitty burrito sounds so cute that might not help with me so much though, the problem isn't so much that he's moving away, it's just that he keeps moving his head and ear when I'm trying to keep ahold of it! Thanks anyway :smile:






Does anyone know for sure if the Felix suitable? I've read that it's low carb enough (6.5%-7.5%, I think?) to be good for diabetic cats, I just want to make sure, you know
Does anyone have anything more about when to give him the insulin? Is it particularly important to do it at a certain time (after each meal, etc) or just make sure I have the 12-hour cycle down?
And how about those Lantus SoloStar pens? Are they any good? Does anyone in the UK use them? Would you be able to tell me how to get them? I'm not too sure...

Thanks again everyone!

 

[rhiannon and shadow (GA)]

I have the multiclix too, it came with the meter.
You can lance with the little cover off but it's hard to know just which hole the lancet is coming out of to hit the right spot.
I had to put it on the highest setting and my cat mewed , Ouch....
Everything said I should get a bigger gauge lancet.
I just bought the fastclix - also by accuchek and I've only used it twice so far, I'm not sure it's that much different except it
clicks twice. It's a bigger gauge. But I'm still having to stick my cat more than once depending on the circumstance.
Either one you definitely want to have tissue or a paper towel on the back side to put pressure on the ear when you click.
Do you know where the sweet spot is?


You wll be giving shots 12 hrs apart so think carefully to select your time frame.
If you have to work daily, you want a time early enough to get it done every day but then comes saturday, and you have to get up on that day too. Same for the evening time, you've got to be home.
I chose 8 am and 8 pm.

 

[squeem3]

The FastClix lancet device is new so I don't think too many people here use it. The lancet is 30 gauge which is probably why you can't get blood with it - it's too thin. A 28 gauge lancet is a good size to use. You can go to the pharmacy/druggest to buy a different brand lancet device and matching lancets. Or, just buy 28 gauge lancets and freehand them without the lancet device. Many people find the lancet device too cumbesrome to use so they just poke the cat's ear direclyt with the lancet.

If you call AccuChek customer service, you might be able to get a different lancet device. No guarantee, though. Whatever you do, do not tell them that you are using the product on a cat because you will not get any help at all. The MultiClix lancet device uses drums of 30 gauge lancets. See if you can get the SoftClix. That uses individual 28 gauge lancets.

Are you warming your cat's ear to help it bleed better? If not, give it a try. Some people use a "rice sock". It's basically a small cotton sock filled with a few spoonfuls of uncooked rice or uncooked oatmeal or dried beans. Knot the sock close and heat in the mcirowave until really really warm. Try 10 seconds to start and add more time as needed until the sock is really warm. Wrap the sock over the edge of the ear for a minute if you can. Then hold the sock under the ear for support as you firmly poke on the other side of the ear with the lancet device.

[qoute]Does anyone know for sure if the Felix suitable? I've read that it's low carb enough (6.5%-7.5%, I think?) to be good for diabetic cats, I just want to make sure, you know [/quote]

Don't worry. They are low carb for diabetics :smile:

Does anyone have anything more about when to give him the insulin? Is it particularly important to do it at a certain time (after each meal, etc) or just make sure I have the 12-hour cycle down?

First decide when you can do the injections (like 6am/6pm). Most people here feed thier cat and while the cat is eating away, test the blood glucose level, and based on the number that shows up on the meter, give insulin right away or not give any insulin at all. It's recommended for newbies not to give any insulin if the blood glucose level is under 200 mg/dl (11 mmol).

And how about those Lantus SoloStar pens? Are they any good? Does anyone in the UK use them?

Most Lantus users here use the SoloStar pens, UK members included. You don't use the pens the way a Human diabetic would with the pen needles and dialing the dose and pushing the button to inject. Instead, you stick the needle of a regular insulin syringe right into the rubber stopper and draw up a dose. This way you can dose half and even quarter units of insulin. The SoloStar pen can only dose in whole units. You can read this sticky for info on how to use the SoloStar pens: http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=151

 

[Link]

Don't worry. They are low carb for diabetics :smile:

First decide when you can do the injections (like 6am/6pm). Most people here feed thier cat and while the cat is eating away, test the blood glucose level, and based on the number that shows up on the meter, give insulin right away or not give any insulin at all. It's recommended for newbies not to give any insulin if the blood glucose level is under 200 mg/dl (11 mmol).

Most Lantus users here use the SoloStar pens, UK members included. You don't use the pens the way a Human diabetic would with the pen needles and dialing the dose and pushing the button to inject. Instead, you stick the needle of a regular insulin syringe right into the rubber stopper and draw up a dose. This way you can dose half and even quarter units of insulin. The SoloStar pen can only dose in whole units. You can read this sticky for info on how to use the SoloStar pens: http://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=151

Just got our first reading took a few attempts but we're there! Had to tempt him with treats but I had him lying down and purring while I did it, bless him! Yes, I did use the rice sock method, I just had to be a bit more firm with the lancet I think.

Got a reading of 26.0 mmol/L... I'm pretty sure that's far too high, right? Just fed him and I'll soon give him a dose of the canininsulin, because I'm still not sure where to get the Lantus.

Just bought a bunch of "Felix- As good as it looks- Doubly Delicious"... I think that it's low enough on carbs, is there any way to check for myself? It doesn't seem to have much in the way of nutritional information on the box...

How do you, especially the UK members, actually get the SoloStar pens? I'm not sure the Vet will stock them, do you think there's any point in me going to check first thing tomorrow? I've tried one of the local pharmacies already and they say they only do any insulin on prescription...

 

[squeem3]

You buy the SoloStar pen at the pharmacy with a prescription. Your vet can write the prescription for you. I'll see if I can get some UK members to post here.

26 mmol is high. Give the usual dose of Caninsulin for now. Anything over 11 mmol requires insulin.

 

[Charlotte & Prop]

The felix you got is really good and only have 3-4 % carbs. So no worries. The other one, as good as it look is also really low. I usally feed mostly the meat variations and then a few times a week the fish one. Never the vegetables ones.

 

[Charlotte & Prop]

You can calculate carbs with this formular from Monoque and Spooky:


Here is the "formula"

When we talk about "less than 10% carbs" we are reffering to the fact that the food has say 8% of it's calories from carbohydrates. The actual carbohydrate amount (scientifically Nitrogen free extract=NfE) in the orginal or dry substance is calculated as follows using as fed values (not the Minimum and maximim given on most labels)

Subtract the as fed values of protien, fat, ash, fiber, and moisure from 100%

100% - crude protien% - crude fat% - ash% - crude fiber% - moisture% = NfE (carbohydrate)%

example canned food: 100% - 10% - 5,5% - 2,5% - 1,0% - 79% = 2% NfE
example dry food: 100% - 30% - 10% - 6,5% - 2,5% - 9% = 42% NfE



To calculate the carbohydrate content in the dry substance



canned food: 100% - 79% moisture = 21% dry matter (DM) = 0,21
dry food: 100% - 9% moisture = 91% dry matter (DM) = 0,91


Then divide the carbohydrate procent by the DM

canned food: 2% NfE / 0,21 = 9,52% carbs in the dry substance
dry food: 42% NfE / 0,91 = 46,15% carbs in the dry substance


To calculate calories each component has a differnt calorie value (depending on digestability typically the modified Atwater-Factor is used:
Protein: 3,5 kcal/g, Fat: 8,5 kcal/g, NfE (carbohydrates): 3,5 kcal/g

The Energy in kcal / 100 g Food is calculated as follows:

(%Protein * 3,5 kcal/g) + (%Fat * 8,5 kcal/g) + (%NfE * 3,5 kcal/g)

 

[Link]

You buy the SoloStar pen at the pharmacy with a prescription. Your vet can write the prescription for you. I'll see if I can get some UK members to post here.

26 mmol is high. Give the usual dose of Caninsulin for now. Anything over 11 mmol requires insulin.

That's excellent news about the pens, I'll call the vet and pay the pharmacies a visit tomorrow, thanks!

Yeah, I thought it was too high, I'll inject him soon. I just hope somewhere around here has the pens tomorrow, and the vet cooperates!

As a side note, his Methyl B-12 arrived today, I have 5000mcg pellets. I was worried about how we'd get him to take them, thinking of chopping them up or grinding them into his food, but we gave him the tablet before he ate and he actually just ate it straight out of my hand! :lol:

Thanks so much again though! I hope we can get Tango back to his usual self soon enough!#

EDIT

Here is the "formula" etc

Thanks, this'll come in really handy :smile:

 

[Phoebe_TiggyGA_NortonGA]

sounds like you're doing well so far.

Some UK members have had problems getting their vet to prescribe the Lantus. They first had to use Caninsulin and demonstrate that it was not adequate to control blood sugar, before changing to Lantus.

The measurement units used in UK/Canada/Aus are different than in the US - by a factor of 18.

Your 26 would equate to 26x18 = 468 in the units that most of us use on a daily basis.

 

[Mary Jazz Katy Bushey(GAs)]

Re: Hi everyone! First post!Hullo from Hastings

Where about are you? There may be another poster near you.

I am out of date with insulins so I will leave that to others.

One of the important things is to get rid of dry food.
If you check on Janet and Binkies board you will find that the ideal food for a cat is a mouse which comes in at 4% carbs. The majority of dry food comes in at 50% !!

If you want to test this, look at the ingrediants, add them together, then subtract from 100 and you have the % carbs.
Now, have you ever seen a cat going out to catch an ear of corn??

We found that tinned food IN JELLY was ideal, and it didn't matter what make

Hope this helps. If you want to talk I will send my number on a PM

Mary (Hastings E Sussex)

 

[Link]

Re: Hi everyone! First post!Hullo from Hastings

Where about are you? There may be another poster near you.

One of the important things is to get rid of dry food.

We found that tinned food IN JELLY was ideal, and it didn't matter what make

Hope this helps. If you want to talk I will send my number on a PM

Mary (Hastings E Sussex)

I'm in Devon in England. Thanks for the offer :smile: I've already gotten rid of the dry food, he's on the Felix now with the occasional meat treat when we test BG.

Some UK members have had problems getting their vet to prescribe the Lantus. They first had to use Caninsulin and demonstrate that it was not adequate to control blood sugar, before changing to Lantus.
The measurement units used in UK/Canada/Aus are different than in the US - by a factor of 18.

Yeah, I've run into that this morning :YMSIGH: tried calling up my vet to see what they could do, but they want to give me the Caninsulin again. The vet should be calling me back later today, at which time I'll at least try throwing the book at him with that AAHA study concluding that the Caninsulin is not effective enough for use on cats, and see if I can explain about how Lantus is better; hopefully he'll be a bit more receptive :smile:


And UGH testing is getting me down again :sad: must have tried for a solid 20 minutes to get some blood from Tango at 8 this morning and just now at 12 noon, but he wouldn't give me a drop! In the end having baited him with treats and getting him to lie down I had him in position, squirming was no trouble, but even hitting his sweet spot I couldn't get a drop of blood!
It must be this lancet, I tried being firm with it, I tried a new lancet in the FastClix, I tried the maximum setting, and I couldn't get a thing! He just shook his head as if to say "Aah, what was that?" Then he'd sit down again with no blood at all! I even tried the rice sock!

I might head out to the pharmacy later, I'll see if they have anything better, but other than that I might just order one of those SoftClix online. Does anyone else have any particular recommendations? Any great success stories? It's starting to get on my and his nerves how "hit and miss" this thing can be :cry:

 

[Diana&Tom]

Hi, I'm in Surrey in the UK, only just seen your post and just popping in to add my support. I can see you're getting a bit frustrated with the testing - it can be difficult whilst you're still getting the hang of it, but it will get easier, really! Rather than a rice sock which can be a bit cumbersome, try using a small piece of cotton wool which you've wetted under the hot tap and wrung out - hold it inside the edge of the ear with your left hand whilst using the lancet device or pen with your right. It's not too bulky and has an added advantage in that you can hold the cotton wool against the pricked part of the ear to stem any remaining blood. I also used to use small cut-up pieces of wet wipes in that way.

I'm afraid I can't offer any suggestions about insulins as I don't have a diabetic cat now, but I do know that Caninsulin really is not the insulin of choice for a cat, it's meant for dogs. Cats metabolise much faster than dogs so use up the insulin faster - that's why Caninsulin is often called a "short duration" insulin. You do have to be very insistent with the vets about this - most of them just don't have much FD knowledge and just go by the book, rather than experience.

As for food - anything in jelly is fine (eg Whiskas, Felix pouches). Avoid the gravy varieties as gravy has more carbs!

Good luck.

Diana

 

[Link]

I can see you're getting a bit frustrated with the testing - it can be difficult whilst you're still getting the hang of it, but it will get easier, really! Rather than a rice sock which can be a bit cumbersome, try using a small piece of cotton wool which you've wetted under the hot tap and wrung out - hold it inside the edge of the ear with your left hand whilst using the lancet device or pen with your right.

Cats metabolise much faster than dogs so use up the insulin faster - that's why Caninsulin is often called a "short duration" insulin. You do have to be very insistent with the vets about this - most of them just don't have much FD knowledge and just go by the book, rather than experience.

Thanks so much, yes the testing is getting a little annoying! I might have to try that with the cotton wool, I hope that can help enough with getting the blood, because his ears seem to be running dry right now :lol:


The vet just got back to me,

They said that they have many diabetic cats being successfully treated on the Caninsulin at the moment, which I'm surprised to hear and a little sceptical of, but they did also mention that they could prescribe the Glargine but only preferably if they had conclusive proof that the Caninsulin treatment was ineffective.

I'm guessing this means taking Tango in for more expensive tests, I understand they'll want to do another curve...

Do you think it would help if I just took readings and showed them that his BG is FAR from regulated?

Or should I just go over their heads and get some Lantus online?

 

[Diana&Tom]

Yes, as far as testing is concerned you do have to experiment a bit and find the way that works for you. When you've done that, it's a doddle. The other thing is to try and be relaxed about it yourself - if you're over-anxious (which you understandably are) your cat will pick up on that and will be less likely to co-operate!

As for the vet/insulin situation - yes, it might well help if you took in some BG readings to show how the Caninsulin is working - or not working. Typically you'd need to do a pre-shot test, then another every two hours to see what effect the insulin is having. If it is clearly having little or no effect, or is being used up too quickly (which is likely) then you have more amunition to request another insulin. I think the thing is to try to establish a mutually respectful relationship with the vet, so he listens to what you are saying as information you have gleaned from quite serious research.

I don't know if it's possible to go over the vet's head and order Lantus online, but even if you could, I wouldn't personally do that if you want to keep on good terms your vet! FD is a process - a marathon, not a sprint - and many of us have had exactly the same experiences as you are having now. It is incredibly frustrating but after only a short while you will have built up a huge amount of knowledge, not only about FD but all sorts of related issues that will only be useful in future, both for you and your animals and other people and theirs.

Keep posting, we are all here to help!

Diana

 

[rhiannon and shadow (GA)]

I would ask the vet to define his use of the word success.

Your definition is obviously different than his. :!:
Sounds like he thinks success is just recognizing it and treating it.
You are actually wanting to try for remission.


Does your cat like sitting under a lamp? I find that the warmth from the lamp makes my cat's ears warm and when they are warm,
they do bleed easier.
I also have a cat warmer mat that she loves sitting on 3/4 of the year, right now it's too warm for it.

I have had a lot more luck now that I changed lancing devices. I found one that was 28 gauge, I previously had a 31 gauge and it was just
too fine....(5 or 6 tries each time)

 

[rhiannon and shadow (GA)]

had to add this after reading backwards on this posting.

I think I would make phone calls to ask other vets if they are willing to use Lantus.
Then you would have options.

Your vet seems just too stuck in his ways.
For him to agree to let you change, He has to spend some time learning new tricks and he just doesn't sound very interested.....

 

[Link]

Sorry to dig this up again :smile: I'm looking at perhaps getting a SoftClix Pro.

Does anyone have one of these? Is there much different from the regular SoftClix? Will it use the same 28g lancets as the other device? I'm not really getting much luck at all with this FastClix, I think the lancets are too small; I don't get much blood at all, if any... Just a lot of unhappy faces from Tango :lol:

-EDIT

I think I just answered my own question... no and I think the lancets have been discontinued :?

Does anyone have a recommendation for a maybe a 28g or lower lancet that's easily available to UKers? I can't seem to find much in the way of available SoftClix devices, or anything else confused_cat

 

[rhiannon and shadow (GA)]

I had the fastclix, same problem. had to use it on the highest setting and it didn't always get a bleeder.

So i bought a softclix plus
http://www.diabetessupplies4less.com/acsopllade10.html

says they do international shipping.....
you could also do an online search to shop for it.

I would go look at www.accuchek.com and see if the lancets are compatible. I think they are.

I wasn't sure this was any better at first but, I have discovered that it is. I'm getting it on first try and i'm on a lower setting.
I'm really like it.
It is 28 gauge.

the fastclix we have was a 31 gauge.
It made quite a difference.

 

[Mary Jazz Katy Bushey(GAs)]

I always found it easier to use the lancets "free hand" ie without any gadget. Just hold it like a sewing needle.

Incidently Bushey came with a bottle of Caninsulin, and with 2u x2daily his bgs stayed at 35
As I had an old bottlen of Insuvet PZI(beef) I gave him a dose and within a week his numbers came down to a more manageable 20s

Mary

 

[squeem3]

Here's the UK info for the SoftClix Pro: https://www.accu-chek.co.uk/gb/products/fingerprickers/index.html?product=softclixplus The lancets are 28 gauge which is a good size for a cat. And it uses the same lancets as the originial SoftClix

The original SoftClix is no longer available in the UK but it's still available in the US. Before you buy one online and pay for international shipping, call AccuChek Customer Service and ask if they could possibly get you a SoftClix from their US office and send it along to you so you can use it on your "child" because the FastClix isn't working very well.

 

[Elizabeth and Bertie]

Re: Hi everyone! First post! - UK Felix 'As Good As It Looks

The felix you got is really good and only have 3-4 % carbs. So no worries. The other one, as good as it look is also really low. I usally feed mostly the meat variations and then a few times a week the fish one. Never the vegetables ones.

Hi, please be very cautious about Felix 'As Good As It Looks'.

Although the ingredients list looks great (in terms of low carbs) some cats react to this food (mine included) and their blood sugar can jump sky high. In fact, I always have sachets of this food on hand for times when Bertie's blood sugar drops too low or too fast. I've found that, for him, just a tablespoon of this stuff can stop a steep BG drop in it's tracks...

I suspect that only a minority of cats are affected in this way (but I know Bertie isn't the only one). If you're hometesting you'll soon know if yours is one of the cats that is sensitive to this food...

Elizabeth