Help newly diagnosed diabetic cat

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Robinbirdlady

Robinbirdlady

Member Since 2014
Hi!

I was hoping to get some help here. I took my cat into the vet on Friday Sept 19th 2014 so 6 days ago because he had been throwing up a vomit that was darker then normal. The Dr ran some blood tests and when she called me back the next day something in the blood work made her think my cat was diabetic. So she used that same blood and ran a fructose test to look back at the past 3 weeks of glucose. That came back positive. So Tuesday 5 days later I took him into the vet so she could get a urine sample. There were no Ketones in his urine. But when she did a glucose test his it came back 355. I had been doing a ton of research over the past few days so I already saw that I should buy an at home glucose test and bring it in for comparison. At the end of the vet visit we tested him again and theirs measured 305 and my ReliOn measured 285. I read that they would be slightly off so I was prepared for this. My vet wanted to start him on 1mg (I think she said mg) of insulin. But I read that I should try a change in his diet for a few days to see how much that helps. She didn't really seem to have the same knowledge that I had been getting over the internet. I thought it was important to see how much would change with a grain free high protein diet before I started pumping my cat with insulin. I convinced her allow me to do this. So the search began for the right food and boy has it been hard!! I can not seem to find a food that doesn't have peas or potatoes or corn in it. I settled for Wellness Grain free canned food. It is super expensive and still has peas and potatoes in it, which I read has high carbohydrates. Can anyone please 1. give me food suggestions. I have looked at those charts and they just confuse me. I don't know how much protein vs fat vs carbs there should be. I just need someone to tell me a few canned foods that will work. And 2. Am I doing the right thing by holding off on the insulin for a few days? I randomly checked his glucose today about mid day and it was 305! Which is higher then when I checked him at the vet yesterday. I do not want to do any further harm to my cat by not giving him insulin but I also would like to see how much the diet change will help. I am soooooo overwhelmed and probably do more research then I should be. How many days should I wait to do a full days curb to see if the food has helped? He may of had the diabetes for a while and I never knew. I feel so bad for him. But honestly he is acting completely normal. He has always been a big water drinker.
Please help!

Robin
 
Hi Robin, and welcome to you and your super sweet kitty. What is his name? You've come to the right place for help. And great job getting a blood glucose meter to start testing! That's a great first step and one of the hardest to master.

What food was your kitty eating before his diagnosis? A low carb commercial canned wet food or raw food is recommended. We recommend something below 10% carbs. Check out the http://www.catinfo.org website for a great description of feline nutrition. She has a posted a food chart listing many of the commercially available cat foods. Wellness is quite cost effective in the tall cans and just has small amounts of vegetables so it's carb % for their chicken, turkey, and beef and chicken are all around 4% carbs so quite good for diabetics. I'd give a diet switch a few days to see how it impacts the blood sugar. You don't want to wait too long, because if he needs insulin, the sooner cats get back into good blood glucose numbers, the better the chances that he can go into remission.

What type of insulin was your vet suggesting to use? Ones that work well for cats are Lantus, Levemir and Prozinc. If the vet was thinking Lantus or Levemir, there is a weight based formula for starting dose that depends on the ideal weight of your cat. Do you know what that is?

If you are interested in getting recommendations for a vet in LA, start another post with a heading something like "Recommendation for vet in LA".
 
Hi and welcome!
It is overwhelming at first but it will get much better!
I feed my kitty Fancy Feast Pate and only the Chicken and Turkey flavors. I also use Friskies Special Diet Pate Turkey and Giblets. Both kinds are ok to feed a diabetic and they don't cost all that much since a diabetic kitty can eat you out of house and home. I also buy chicken when its on sale and boil it for treats and snacks. I get a lot when its on sale and I usually cook a lot at one time and freeze some so that I always have some available.
Its great that you are going to try testing and a food change first. Some folks are fortunate and a food change is all that's needed.
Welcome aboard and don't worry, you found the right place to be!! Lots and lots of knowledge and experience on this board! It saved both me and my kitty!!
terriy & Chicken Little cat_pet_icon
 
Wendy&Neko said:
Hi Robin, and welcome to you and your super sweet kitty. What is his name? You've come to the right place for help. And great job getting a blood glucose meter to start testing! That's a great first step and one of the hardest to master.

What food was your kitty eating before his diagnosis? A low carb commercial canned wet food or raw food is recommended. We recommend something below 10% carbs. Check out the http://www.catinfo.org website for a great description of feline nutrition. She has a posted a food chart listing many of the commercially available cat foods. Wellness is quite cost effective in the tall cans and just has small amounts of vegetables so it's carb % for their chicken, turkey, and beef and chicken are all around 4% carbs so quite good for diabetics. I'd give a diet switch a few days to see how it impacts the blood sugar. You don't want to wait too long, because if he needs insulin, the sooner cats get back into good blood glucose numbers, the better the chances that he can go into remission.

What type of insulin was your vet suggesting to use? Ones that work well for cats are Lantus, Levemir and Prozinc. If the vet was thinking Lantus or Levemir, there is a weight based formula for starting dose that depends on the ideal weight of your cat. Do you know what that is?

If you are interested in getting recommendations for a vet in LA, start another post with a heading something like "Recommendation for vet in LA".
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for responding! I really appreciate it. My cats name is Sherman. Prior to his diagnosis he was eating dry food Blue buffalo for overweight cats or Natures choice. But then my other cat (Petunia) was diagnosed with bladder crystals! So I switched them both over to Purina's urinary track canned food. It is really hard to feed them different foods. It seems like they always want what the other one has. So now I am back to dealing with trying to keep them separated. Petunia likes to scarf all of her food down and then move on to his. Sherman is more of a grazer. So trying to keep them separated is producing another challenge.

So by the time I speak with the vet again about how the food has been working it will be 10 days without insulin. Is that too many? I just started him on the better diet 2 1/2 days ago. I am worried about keeping him off it for too long. The insulin my doctor wrote a prescription for is glougin 1unit 2 times daily. She said that one is one of the kinds that can get him into remission. But thats not what I have been reading on here. Should I push for another and do you thing that dosage is too much? I am sort of just randomly checking him and just got 244 which is still high but better then yesterdays 304. He weight is 18 pounds! I know that is huge but he is also just a big boy anyway. He kind of looks like that black and white cat on your profile. He is absolutely the kindest sweetest constantly purring cat. I just love hime to death.
Oh yes about the food. I did see that chart but I am confuse by it. Am I supposed to be doing any calculations to find out that percentage of carbs? I don't think he is loving the Wellness food. I was thinking of trying something else. The Purrfect bistro is a little cheaper which I kind of need. Is that stuff any good? Any other suggestions you can throw out there?

Thank you for the suggestion for starting another message board. I will do that for sure.

Robin
 
terriy said:
Hi and welcome!
It is overwhelming at first but it will get much better!
I feed my kitty Fancy Feast Pate and only the Chicken and Turkey flavors. I also use Friskies Special Diet Pate Turkey and Giblets. Both kinds are ok to feed a diabetic and they don't cost all that much since a diabetic kitty can eat you out of house and home. I also buy chicken when its on sale and boil it for treats and snacks. I get a lot when its on sale and I usually cook a lot at one time and freeze some so that I always have some available.
Its great that you are going to try testing and a food change first. Some folks are fortunate and a food change is all that's needed.
Welcome aboard and don't worry, you found the right place to be!! Lots and lots of knowledge and experience on this board! It saved both me and my kitty!!
terriy & Chicken Little cat_pet_icon
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for the reply. And the reassurance that it will get easier. I will check those foods out. The wellness is so crazy expensive. I would like to find something in-between. I don't mind paying a bit more since the dry food I was giving him before was quite expensive anyway. I would also like to try the chicken treats too. I feel like he deserves it after all of this testing. My fingers are crossed that the diet change will be enough.
 
Welcome!

I am guessing your vet suggested Glargine? That is also called Lantus and is a great insulin, so no worries there.

Lots of people here feed Fancy Feast or Friskies pate. But you can feed whatever you can fford that they will eat. On this chart, you want the 3rd column over (somehwere near the 8% carb range)

http://www.catinfo.org/docs/FoodChartPublic9-22-12.pdf

244 is a not a bad number number. Many new diabetics run in the 400-500 range before insulin. I think I might give it a few more days, of low carb wet, testing to see whether he drops lower.

For reference, we generally consider a cat is regulated, on insulin, if they are in the lower to mid 220s at preshot and in double digits at midcycle, but not below 40. Non diabetic and those in remission, off insulin, range from 40-120 with the najority of the time in double digits.
 
Here's a shortcut shopping list of foods that you might find easier to sort through.

Lantus is the manufacturer's name for glargine and is one of the three insulins we recommend using, so that insulin is just fine. :thumbup

If you just switched food two and a half days ago, it's worth waiting a couple more days to see if the numbers settle lower before starting insulin. Are you also testing for ketones at home? Remember, he didn't become diabetic overnight, so as long as he has no ketones, a few more days without insulin while you change the food will make things easier for you in the long run.

Whereabouts in the LA area are you? I'm down in OC, so I can help you with that area, but if you're in LA proper, I won't be much good. ;-)
 
Wendy&Neko said:
Hi Robin, and welcome to you and your super sweet kitty. What is his name? You've come to the right place for help. And great job getting a blood glucose meter to start testing! That's a great first step and one of the hardest to master.

What food was your kitty eating before his diagnosis? A low carb commercial canned wet food or raw food is recommended. We recommend something below 10% carbs. Check out the http://www.catinfo.org website for a great description of feline nutrition. She has a posted a food chart listing many of the commercially available cat foods. Wellness is quite cost effective in the tall cans and just has small amounts of vegetables so it's carb % for their chicken, turkey, and beef and chicken are all around 4% carbs so quite good for diabetics. I'd give a diet switch a few days to see how it impacts the blood sugar. You don't want to wait too long, because if he needs insulin, the sooner cats get back into good blood glucose numbers, the better the chances that he can go into remission.

What type of insulin was your vet suggesting to use? Ones that work well for cats are Lantus, Levemir and Prozinc. If the vet was thinking Lantus or Levemir, there is a weight based formula for starting dose that depends on the ideal weight of your cat. Do you know what that is?

If you are interested in getting recommendations for a vet in LA, start another post with a heading something like "Recommendation for vet in LA".
Click to expand...

Sorry I just looked again at the chart and I see where the carb total is. Thank you :smile:
 
Robinbirdlady said:
But then my other cat (Petunia) was diagnosed with bladder crystals! So I switched them both over to Purina's urinary track canned food. It is really hard to feed them different foods. It seems like they always want what the other one has. So now I am back to dealing with trying to keep them separated. Petunia likes to scarf all of her food down and then move on to his. Sherman is more of a grazer. So trying to keep them separated is producing another challenge.
Click to expand...
Oh, and the Catinfo.org site also has a page specifically for urinary tract health. The low carb, wet food you pick for Sherman should also be just fine to feed Petunia.
 
KPassa said:
Robinbirdlady said:
But then my other cat (Petunia) was diagnosed with bladder crystals! So I switched them both over to Purina's urinary track canned food. It is really hard to feed them different foods. It seems like they always want what the other one has. So now I am back to dealing with trying to keep them separated. Petunia likes to scarf all of her food down and then move on to his. Sherman is more of a grazer. So trying to keep them separated is producing another challenge.
Click to expand...
Oh, and the Catinfo.org site also has a page specifically for urinary tract health. The low carb, wet food you pick for Sherman should also be just fine to feed Petunia.
Click to expand...


Oh my goodness you are right! This is such helpful info. Feeding them the same food will be so much easier.
 
KPassa said:
Here's a shortcut shopping list of foods that you might find easier to sort through.

Lantus is the manufacturer's name for glargine and is one of the three insulins we recommend using, so that insulin is just fine. :thumbup

If you just switched food two and a half days ago, it's worth waiting a couple more days to see if the numbers settle lower before starting insulin. Are you also testing for ketones at home? Remember, he didn't become diabetic overnight, so as long as he has no ketones, a few more days without insulin while you change the food will make things easier for you in the long run.

Whereabouts in the LA area are you? I'm down in OC, so I can help you with that area, but if you're in LA proper, I won't be much good. ;-)
Click to expand...

This is so helpful! Thank you. I am in LA proper. Think I will start a help board to find one in my area. So good to know that is a good insulin.

Robin
 
Sue and Oliver (GA) said:
Welcome!

I am guessing your vet suggested Glargine? That is also called Lantus and is a great insulin, so no worries there.

Lots of people here feed Fancy Feast or Friskies pate. But you can feed whatever you can fford that they will eat. On this chart, you want the 3rd column over (somehwere near the 8% carb range)

http://www.catinfo.org/docs/FoodChartPublic9-22-12.pdf

244 is a not a bad number number. Many new diabetics run in the 400-500 range before insulin. I think I might give it a few more days, of low carb wet, testing to see whether he drops lower.

For reference, we generally consider a cat is regulated, on insulin, if they are in the lower to mid 220s at preshot and in double digits at midcycle, but not below 40. Non diabetic and those in remission, off insulin, range from 40-120 with the najority of the time in double digits.
Click to expand...

This is good to know. I was really worried about that number. I sure hope just a food change can help him. Thank you so much for the info. I really appreciate it.
 
Robinbirdlady said:
KPassa said:
Here's a shortcut shopping list of foods that you might find easier to sort through.

Lantus is the manufacturer's name for glargine and is one of the three insulins we recommend using, so that insulin is just fine. :thumbup

If you just switched food two and a half days ago, it's worth waiting a couple more days to see if the numbers settle lower before starting insulin. Are you also testing for ketones at home? Remember, he didn't become diabetic overnight, so as long as he has no ketones, a few more days without insulin while you change the food will make things easier for you in the long run.

Whereabouts in the LA area are you? I'm down in OC, so I can help you with that area, but if you're in LA proper, I won't be much good. ;-)
Click to expand...

This is so helpful! Thank you. I am in LA proper. Think I will start a help board to find one in my area. So good to know that is a good insulin.

Robin
Click to expand...

On that short cut list what is FKD? Is that needed for cats with urinary problems? Also I had his ketones tested at the vet and there was none in his urine. I didn't realize I should do that at home too. I don't know how I would test that while he is urinating.
 
FKD are kitties with renal problems. They need foods lower in phosphorus because their kidneys don't process phosphorus properly.
 
You can buy a box of ketostix at the pharmacy (I think they're around $10) and here are some urine catching tips. Since he's not receiving insulin yet, you'll want to test daily, if possible, or every other day as a preventative measure. If he develops ketones and you catch it fast, it's a lot easier to treat rather than if he goes into full-blown DKA.
 
KPassa said:
You can buy a box of ketostix at the pharmacy (I think they're around $10) and here are some urine catching tips. Since he's not receiving insulin yet, you'll want to test daily, if possible, or every other day as a preventative measure. If he develops ketones and you catch it fast, it's a lot easier to treat rather than if he goes into full-blown DKA.
Click to expand...

Ok I will buy them tomorrow. I think I may have a bad glucose meter which is Relion. I just took a reading and got 366. I didn't believe it so I did another poke and got 300 then with that same blood I took another sample and got 266. Obviously there is no way it could change that much in a matter of minutes. Has anyone had a problem like this with their meters?

Robin
 
Meters are allowed to read +/- 20% from what a lab would get. When the low number * 1.2 is greater than the high number * 0.8, the numbers may be considered the same.

266 * 1.2 = 319.2
300 * 0.8 = 240.0
These 2 overlap and may be considered the same
300 * 1.2 = 360.0
366 * 0.8 = 292.8
And these 2 overlap and may be considered the same

The "true" value is likely to be around the average of all 3, or 311 mg/dL.
 
BJM said:
Meters are allowed to read +/- 20% from what a lab would get. When the low number * 1.2 is greater than the high number * 0.8, the numbers may be considered the same.

266 * 1.2 = 319.2
300 * 0.8 = 240.0
These 2 overlap and may be considered the same
300 * 1.2 = 360.0
366 * 0.8 = 292.8
And these 2 overlap and may be considered the same

The "true" value is likely to be around the average of all 3, or 311 mg/dL.
Click to expand...

Oh wow. So is everyone taking multiple readings at the same time to get a more accurate number? This is a ton of work! I feel so discouraged because that means my earlier reading of 244 isn't correct at all.
 
There's usually no need to take multiple tests. The +/-20% spread is just greater at higher numbers so there's more of a chance of disparate numbers. Either way, high is high and you treat the same whether it's 300 or 500. At lower numbers, that range is much closer together so the numbers will be much more "accurate."
 
Home meters are only supposed to give you a general idea of what is going on. You go with just 1 test unless it seems really off, such as super low or an error message.

And low numbers are where you need to be cautious, as hypoglycemia can kill quickly. Once it is over the renal threshold where glucose dumps in the urine, the actual number really isn't important; you need to figure out some way to improve control.

They are, I believe, working on having them become more accurate, but no official change in the FDA standard exists at this time.
 
BJM said:
Home meters are only supposed to give you a general idea of what is going on. You go with just 1 test unless it seems really off, such as super low or an error message.

And low numbers are where you need to be cautious, as hypoglycemia can kill quickly. Once it is over the renal threshold where glucose dumps in the urine, the actual number really isn't important; you need to figure out some way to improve control.

They are, I believe, working on having them become more accurate, but no official change in the FDA standard exists at this time.
Click to expand...

Thank you! How many times a day should I be testing Sherman? Right now I am just doing a diet change for a few days to see how that helps. Should I do one before his breakfast and then how many after that? I want to have two days of a full curve before I take him back to the vet and decide if he does in fact need insulin.
 
Hello,

A curve generally consists of a Pre-Shot (before meal). Then tests every 2 hours up to and including the next Pre-shot test. 7 tests in all.

I am not sure that you would need all those as you are not looking for the nadir (low point of where insulin is acting).

You might be able to get away with 1 or 2 less. I would think the Vet is really going to look at the highest number. The highest number tells the effect on the body, such as:

mmol/L mg/dL(US)
13.33-15 240[30]-270

Feline Renal threshold for glucose, when excess glucose from the kidneys spills into the urine and roughly when the cat begins to show diabetic symptoms. See Hyperglycemia for long-term effects of high blood glucose on cats.

(see chart from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diabetes_in_cats)
 
Do a test before every shot, to help you determine if it may be safe to give insulin; for beginners, suggest you not shoot below 200 mg/dL on a human glucometer. As you collect pre-shot and mid-cycle data, you may gradually reduce your no shot number to 150 mg/dL if your data show it is safe.

Snagging a mid-cycle test whenever possible to see how low your cat is going helps you determine if/when the dose needs adjusting. You want the lowest number to remain above 50 mg/dL on a human glucometer, as below that may result in hypoglycemia (potentially fatal low glucose level).

Getting a test before bedtime may alert you to your cat dropping to lower than desirable numbers. This lets you intervene with food and prevent a possible hypoglycemic attack while you sleep.

If your cat is a recent diabetic and you are following a Tight Regulation protocol, you'll want to continue testing at least 4 times a day as that protocol keeps the glucose as low as possible for as much of the time as possible. This means vigilant monitoring.
 
I finally started my cat on insulin. I tried a food change and I was still testing in the high 200's. So tonight I gave my 1 unit of Lantus. I did a pre BG test and he was 322. I used the pen form where you click to the about you want then push the button after injection of the needle and the amount goes in. I took a reading two hours after and the first test was 399! I was shocked that it went up. Plus 399 is the highest I have ever tested. So I had to check again. The next prick got me 289 and with that same blood I got 400. What could be going on here? I thought I would be so pleased to see his glucose going down a bit but it seems to have gone up. nailbite_smile
Also dealing with the major inaccuracy on this Relion meter drives me crazy. I know that I could just average the numbers but it seems almost like more of a pain. Does anyone know if the more expensive one for pets gives you a more accurate BG number?

Robin
 
Robin - Lantus/glargine is a depot type of insulin. We hold the initial dose for 5-7 days. It takes a while for the insulin to build up and may or may not take a couple of days before you start seeing improvements.

For testing, the pet meters are a lot more expensive, and the strips are even more so. And the worst part is that you can only get them at the vet clinic and online. No good if kitty is low and you are doing a lot of testing and run out. The protocol that a number of us use here for Lantus uses numbers from the human meters. All manufactures of meters (both pet and human) are allowed to have up to 20% variability in the tests, so the pet meters will be no more accurate. What can happen with testing is that if you have too much or too little blood, sometimes the tests will read off. With practice you'll get consistency.

One other thing, we recommend the use of insulin syringes to get the Lantus out of the pen. Cat's often need insulin dose changes in amounts as small as .25U. If you get syringes with .5 unit markings, you can eyeball those .25 units. The pen needs are fine to use if you are dosing whole units, but you'll need syringes if you need to change the dose.
 
Wendy&Neko said:
Robin - Lantus/glargine is a depot type of insulin. We hold the initial dose for 5-7 days. It takes a while for the insulin to build up and may or may not take a couple of days before you start seeing improvements.

For testing, the pet meters are a lot more expensive, and the strips are even more so. And the worst part is that you can only get them at the vet clinic and online. No good if kitty is low and you are doing a lot of testing and run out. The protocol that a number of us use here for Lantus uses numbers from the human meters. All manufactures of meters (both pet and human) are allowed to have up to 20% variability in the tests, so the pet meters will be no more accurate. What can happen with testing is that if you have too much or too little blood, sometimes the tests will read off. With practice you'll get consistency.

One other thing, we recommend the use of insulin syringes to get the Lantus out of the pen. Cat's often need insulin dose changes in amounts as small as .25U. If you get syringes with .5 unit markings, you can eyeball those .25 units. The pen needs are fine to use if you are dosing whole units, but you'll need syringes if you need to change the dose.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much! Oh man this site and all of you wonderful people have saved my life! I don't know what I would do if I didn't have this help. Thank you all so much.
Robin and Sherman
 
Wendy&Neko said:
Robin - Lantus/glargine is a depot type of insulin. We hold the initial dose for 5-7 days. It takes a while for the insulin to build up and may or may not take a couple of days before you start seeing improvements.

For testing, the pet meters are a lot more expensive, and the strips are even more so. And the worst part is that you can only get them at the vet clinic and online. No good if kitty is low and you are doing a lot of testing and run out. The protocol that a number of us use here for Lantus uses numbers from the human meters. All manufactures of meters (both pet and human) are allowed to have up to 20% variability in the tests, so the pet meters will be no more accurate. What can happen with testing is that if you have too much or too little blood, sometimes the tests will read off. With practice you'll get consistency.

One other thing, we recommend the use of insulin syringes to get the Lantus out of the pen. Cat's often need insulin dose changes in amounts as small as .25U. If you get syringes with .5 unit markings, you can eyeball those .25 units. The pen needs are fine to use if you are dosing whole units, but you'll need syringes if you need to change the dose.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about that with the pen. Today was only my second time using but I am not to sure how I like it. The trouble I am having is that I click the pen to 1 unit. After insert the needle I push the button to release the insulin. I read that I need to wait at least 10 seconds to make sure all the insulin goes in. But when I pull the needle up there is some insulin drops on the needle. What I can't figure out is if he isn't getting the insulin or if some just comes out after I pull the needle out. If that is the case that worrys me because more shouldn't be coming out. And if there is excess what if that causes too much to be administered to him. Any ideas on this?
 
Most of use here just stick the needle end of an insulin syringe into the pen when the pen needle goes and draw the insulin out of the pen. We do not use the pens dispensing mechanism
 
In a dehydrated cat, the puncture may not close as quickly, so insulin may leak. There are 2 checks for dehydration listed in my signature link Secondary Monitoring Tools - the scruff test and the gum test.

When you gently pull up the scruff of the neck and release, dose it stay tented up? If yes, the cat may be moderately to severely dehydrated.

If you press a finger on the gums of the mouth and release, does it pink right back up, or does it stay blanched whitish and only slowly pink back up. Slow capillary refill of the gums may indicate mild dehydration or more.
 
BJM said:
In a dehydrated cat, the puncture may not close as quickly, so insulin may leak. There are 2 checks for dehydration listed in my signature link Secondary Monitoring Tools - the scruff test and the gum test.

When you gently pull up the scruff of the neck and release, dose it stay tented up? If yes, the cat may be moderately to severely dehydrated.

If you press a finger on the gums of the mouth and release, does it pink right back up, or does it stay blanched whitish and only slowly pink back up. Slow capillary refill of the gums may indicate mild dehydration or more.
Click to expand...

I got the other syringes to pull the 1 unit out of the pen. That worked much easier. When I tested him tonight before his second shot he was 253. He seems really depressed and just doesn't seem like himself. I don't think its because of his glucose. I think its because we have to keep poking him. He doesn't seem to mind the insulin but the ear pokes are bothering him and he has been fighting them. I did the warming of a sock with rice, the treat and the neosporin and he still seems sad. Is this a common thing for cats new to being pricked all the time? Or could the insulin be bothering him? It makes me so sad. He was so lively prior to this diagnosis but all of this seems to be brining him down. :sad:
 
Larry and Kitties said:
Most of use here just stick the needle end of an insulin syringe into the pen when the pen needle goes and draw the insulin out of the pen. We do not use the pens dispensing mechanism
Click to expand...

Got the syringe and it works so much better! Thanks for the tip.
 
Can we get you started recording your data in the grid sheet we use? No math required and instructions are here.

Understanding the spreadsheet/grid:

The colored headings at the top are the ranges of glucose values. They are color-coded to clue you in as to meaning.

Each day is 1 row. Each column stores different data for the day.

From left to right, you enter
the Date in the first column
the AMPS (morning pre-shot test) in the 2nd column
the Units given (turquoise column)

Then, there are 11 columns labeled +1 through +11
If you test at +5 (5 hours after the shot), you enter the test number in the +5 column
If you test at +7 (7 hours after the shot), you enter the test number in the +7 column
and so on.

Halfway across the page is the column for PMPS (evening pre-shot)
To the right is another turquoise column for Units given at the evening shot.

There is second set of columns labeled +1 through +11
If you snag a before bed test at +3, you enter the test number in the +3 column.

We separate day and night numbers like that because many cats go lower at night.

It is merely a grid for storing the info; no math required.
 
BJM said:
Can we get you started recording your data in the grid sheet we use? No math required and instructions are here.

Understanding the spreadsheet/grid:

The colored headings at the top are the ranges of glucose values. They are color-coded to clue you in as to meaning.

Each day is 1 row. Each column stores different data for the day.

From left to right, you enter
the Date in the first column
the AMPS (morning pre-shot test) in the 2nd column
the Units given (turquoise column)

Then, there are 11 columns labeled +1 through +11
If you test at +5 (5 hours after the shot), you enter the test number in the +5 column
If you test at +7 (7 hours after the shot), you enter the test number in the +7 column
and so on.

Halfway across the page is the column for PMPS (evening pre-shot)
To the right is another turquoise column for Units given at the evening shot.

There is second set of columns labeled +1 through +11
If you snag a before bed test at +3, you enter the test number in the +3 column.

We separate day and night numbers like that because many cats go lower at night.

It is merely a grid for storing the info; no math required.
Click to expand...

Yes I started the other day. Its a little different the first few days because I wasn't giving insulin at first. But I have notes in the side bar.
But right now I am having a little bit of a scare. I didn't check his blood glucose last night after his insulin shot because he was just so upset. This morning I checked it pre shot and got 98. So obviously I didn't give him his morning shot. But that is the lowest I have gotten on him. Maybe the first two insulin shots with the pen weren't working after all and now that I used a syringe it actually got in there. Should I be worried about such a low number for a newbie like myself. I fed him right away. Is there anything else I should do??
 
If it is the google doc we use, you need to attach it to your signature so we can see his numbers when you want advice. It will automatically update.

First go back to the spreadsheet. On the right hand side, choose Share and then Anyone with the Link. On the left hand side, choose File, Publish to the Web, Republish and Start Publishing. A long url will come up in the box. Highlight and copy it. Then go back to the forum and pick User Control Panel, Edit Signature.

Paste the long url in your signature, along with Using Lantus and what you are feeding. If you want it to say Sherman's SS, do this:

At the beginning of the long url you pasted, put Sherman's SS

The go to the bottom and choose Submit.
 
Sue and Oliver (GA) said:
If it is the google doc we use, you need to attach it to your signature so we can see his numbers when you want advice. It will automatically update.

First go back to the spreadsheet. On the right hand side, choose Share and then Anyone with the Link. On the left hand side, choose File, Publish to the Web, Republish and Start Publishing. A long url will come up in the box. Highlight and copy it. Then go back to the forum and pick User Control Panel, Edit Signature.

Paste the long url in your signature, along with Using Lantus and what you are feeding. If you want it to say Sherman's SS, do this:

At the beginning of the long url you pasted, put Sherman's SS

The go to the bottom and choose Submit.
Click to expand...

I just tried to do this and thought I lost all the charting I have done so far. So I will wait to have my husband help me do this tonight. Did you happen to read my message right about your response? I am trying to figure out Sherman got so low after a 1 unit shot I have him the night before. Any ideas? I tested him again two hours after and he moved up to 150. But that sill is low for him.
 
I don't have experience with Lantus so can't advise on dosing. Maybe start a new thread asking for specific Lantus advice and listing the Low preshot? That might attract Lantus users.

In general we tell new diabetics not to shoot under 200 but to stall, without feeding, for 20+ minutes to see if he rises to 200 or above.
 
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