Cat problem! Need help!

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rbrumbaugh82

Hey everyone. I know this isn't diabetic related but there are so many friends here that maybe someone has experienced a similar problem. I just recently tried a major overhaul with my cats. I got them all collars with name tags on them in case one got outside. Most seem to be okay with them on their necks but I don't think its a problem for what I'm about to say. I also just purchased and received YA Zero Carb Mature formula because the lady I talked to said that cats stop growing at 3 years of age so if I wanted a cat food that would help with not getting urinary or kidney problems then get the Mature instead of the original Zero carb food. However, I bought it and I don't see my cats hardly touching it. Maybe just a few seem to eat it seeing the food pieces on the ground and I seen one of my inside cats eat it. I know when I got the food sample packs it was the original formula and not the Mature one so maybe I need to go back to that despite the lower mineral content in the Mature formula? I don't know what to do because feeding wet cat food becomes a pain in the butt when I am gone and dry food is more economical but just finding one that is low carbs and won't cause problems is the problem. Lastly, I switched all my cat litters over to the Arm and Hammer new LightWeight and I hardly see any of my cats use it. In fact, for the first time one of my inside cats just started peeing on blankets and he is following me around like he is trying to get my attention. Do you think the litter could be a huge problem and the perfume smell despite the litter being dust free could be a problem and he is peeing on things because of the litter? I wonder if the cat food is the problem too? I was going to order Epigen 90 but I have seen very bad reviews on it but I have seen the food has less carbs then YA. WHAT IS A MAN SUPPOSED TO DO TO GIVE THE BEST TO HIS CATS? Sorry for caps but I am beyond stressed right now with all these new problems happening and trying to make things right. Any suggestions?
 
Food changes work best when done gradually, about 20-25% per day.

For inappropriate elimination, always go to the vet and rule out any medical problems.

Here is a list I compiled previously. Some of the items may not apply.
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You might try an integrated approach using multiple options from the list below on a consistent basis:

* start with crating, using a medium large crate (30" long is big enough for cat and a litter box) until progress. She probably won't go where she'd have to lie in it ... but if she does, something is wrong and it may be medical.

* tarps and newspapers may be easier on clean up if you don't crate her

* feeding on a schedule and then placing her in the litterbox (maybe in a crate) within 15-20 minutes after eating, until she goes, then praising and letting her out.

* Feliway/Comfort Zone - friendly facial pheromones which reduce stress and may reduce marking behavior. Cheapest prices are usually on the net (ex http://www.LambertVetSupply.com ) I've used it and it helps.

* Cat Attract litter - supposed to help attract cat to litter box

* rule out arthritis or constipation - pain causes box avoidance

* watch if the other cats ever attack her in the box and if so, you may need to keep her separated from them. I've got one the others attack, completely unprovoked.

* litter box should be 1.5 times length of cat, litter cleaned frequently, but avoid really strong smelling cleaners as cats may avoid them due to the scent.

* you've got to get residual odors out from areas which were 'nailed'. If you don't get those spots thoroughly cleaned, any residual odor may trigger using the spot again. Enzyme based products such as Nature's Miracle, are the most likely to have success. Carpet may need to be rolled back and treated on the back side, plus treating the pad separately (or replacing the pad). It can require repeated applications.

* regular play sessions of about 15 minutes to reduce stress and promote bond with you

* reward desirable behaviors - if you see her use the box, praise and treat her

* put unpleasant textures in places she has peed to encourage avoidance

* read some of this author's books: http://www.catbehaviorassociates.com/ she's pretty good - ex "Starting from Scratch"
 
The innova Evo has lower carb dry food, maybe that's worth trying if the YA isn't meeting your cat's tastes. I'd rule out UTI or other health problems, then try "Cat Attract" litter or additive, it worked really well for my cat. Avoid any scented litter, it's bad for cat's respiratory systems, and it can confuse cats (especially if they are older and might be losing their sense of smell anyways).

Also, If your litter box is in the basement, you might consider moving it. Older cats (especially when not feeling well) have a hard time with stairs, and then they decide it's easier to pee on carpets instead.
 
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No all single story home. I just bought the new Lightweight Arm and Hammer cat litter and noticed a few litter boxes still unused and my inside cat is acting weird since buying it. He started urinating on blankets so the smell might be too strong and he don't like it. Seen bad reviews on it too.
 
Also, depending on what you are doing with food changes, you can probably go ahead and increase another 0.25U and keep an eye out. What was your cat eating before you changed to the YA? Sometimes, it's a compromise and if all they will eat is a 10-15% carb food, then you feed that and just use the insulin to get the BS under control. Once the BS is under control, then start SLOWLY changing foods and keep a close eye on the BS cause you might have to reduce.

Cats don't like change much, so it can be frustrating trying to find the perfect balance.
 
Well my thing is that this is the Mature formula from YA. When I got the sample packs it was the original zero carb cat food. They ate that and the only reason I went for this Mature formula is due to the lower mineral content which the lady said would help with any potential urinary or kidney issues. However, I can't think the original formula would cause that many problems. After all, its supposed to have 0% digestible carbs and only has 3% carbs in total. I just don't want to resort back to anything higher than 10% carbs and the ONLY other cat food that comes to mind is the Wellness Core which is higher than 15% carbs I believe. It spiked his BG up. I just think him being overweight is an issue and for some reason I just want to have FAITH in this YA cat food. I'm going to call them in the morning and see if they can switch the food with me since I just got it and my cats aren't fond of it. Atleast I believe they ate at the original formula better. In addition, I did switch back to the Clump and Seal Arm and Hammer Multi-cat litter. I seen that they used the litter box inside that wasn't touched but I don't know if it was my cat that was peeing on blankets or not. I'll have to keep an eye on him to see if he uses it. He seems more perkier now and not acting down.
 
Evo cat and kitten dry is what I feed, for a few reasons. My sugar baby is on day 9 with no insulin, yay! My cats hated the A & H litter too, and I hated it because it ended being dragged everywhere!
 
Not sure why you were told that a dry food would help prevent kidney problems. A water depleted diet (dry kibble) can promote kidney damage. Cats don't drink enough water to satisfy the needs of the kidneys, even diabetic cats. The absolute best form of food for a cat is wet/canned food.
 
You need to read up on some info with Young Again food and not just their food but the science behind dry/wet debate. I think so many of us are brainwashed into believing into things. Such as people say Purina foods are amazing and that people have had cats 17 years old live off that stuff and not be sick. lol A cat maybe won't develop diabetes with a carb diet but I bet they develop other health issues. Carbs play a role with causing a cat to be dehydrated and if you get a food with the right ingredients then the urine will be acidic enough to not form crystals.
 
rbrumbaugh82 said:
... if you get a food with the right ingredients then the urine will be acidic enough to not form crystals.
Click to expand...

There is then the potential problem of certain so-called 'urinary protection' formulas that send the pH too far in the other direction, giving rise to formation of oxalate uroliths. And they need surgical removal.
 
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