Boo and I

[Boo and Me]

We're very new to this .My name is Deb. I am Boos' mom. He is on C-PZI u100 3 units BID. I have home testing supplies as my husband is also diabetic. In general, what are the parameters for Boos blood sugar readings? Haven't started home test yet as my vet and I are working on getting him regulated.

 

[Elizabeth and Bertie]

Hello Deb and Boo,

The normal range (for a non-diabetic cat) is approximately 40-120 mg/dl (2.2 -6.7 mmol) on a human meter. (If you are using a pet meter (ie Alpatrak) the numbers will read a tad higher than these.)
Some cats naturally run a little higher or lower than these numbers.

For a cat on insulin, numbers below 40mg/dl or 2.2 mmol, could be considered hypoglycemic (whether symptoms show or not); and some cats will show symptoms at a little above these numbers.

Cats that are newly diagnosed diabetics will quite often have blood glucose numbers in the 400's (20's) or higher.

Has your vet told you any of Boo's blood glucose numbers?

Eliz

 

[Lisa and Witn (GA)]

Also, for newbies, we recommend using 200 mg as your "don't shoot" number until you know how your cat responds to the insulin and dose. When you are hometesting and become more familiar with how your cat responds you will be able to gradually lower that number.

 

[phlika29]

Hi and welcome

In the FAQ questions there is lots of info including what regulation might look like
http://binkyspage.tripod.com/faq.html#glucose

Q6.1. What is regulation?

A6.1. There are different definitions of regulation. As hometesting becomes more common, we've been getting a better understanding of what cats and their humans might be capable of. Janet & Fitzgerald propose the following "regulation continuum":

• Not treated [blood glucose typically above 300 mg/dl (16.7 mmol/L), poor clinical signs]
• Treated but not regulated [often above 300 (16.7) and rarely near 100 (5.6), poor clinical signs]
• Regulated [generally below 300 (16.7) with glucose nadir near 100 (5.6), good clinical signs, no hypoglycemia]
• Well regulated [generally below 200-250 (11.1-13.9) and often near 100 (5.6), no hypoglycemia]
• Tightly regulated [generally below 150 (8.3) and usually in the 60-120 (3.3-6.7) range, no hypoglycemia, still receiving insulin]
• Normalized [60-120 (3.3-6.7) except perhaps directly after meals -- usually not receiving insulin]

There may also be an extra category of "mostly above 300 (16.7) but with good clinical signs" which occurs with some cats who are getting insulin. We don't know why it happens, but such a cat probably should not be considered to be regulated. On the other end of the spectrum, it is possible for a cat who is not getting insulin to have blood glucose as low as 40 mg/dl (2.2 mmol/L) on a home glucometer. If you have a non-diabetic cat, try testing her with the same meter to get a safe comparison figure.


Here is the prozinc/pzi protocol
http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/protocol-for-prozinc-pzi.109077/

 

[BJM]

See my signature link Glucometer Notes for cat-specific reference ranges using various meter types and measurement units.

 

[Elizabeth and Bertie]

Hi Deb,

(I’m copying some of my post content from your other thread so that the info is in one place for you.)

You’d said that Boo’s fructosamine had gone from 500 to 800 in a 2 week period? Is that correct?

A fructosamine test gives a sort of average of blood glucose values over the preceding couple of weeks; but it isn't able to show any of the highs and lows along the way. And a fructosamine number isn't the same as a blood glucose test number (I think there may be a conversion chart on the forum somewhere, but I'm not sure where...sorry....)

Sometimes, an insulin dose that is too high can cause blood glucose levels to rise. If the blood glucose drops lower than the cat's body is comfortable with the liver can release stored glucose into the bloodstream, and also counter-regulatory hormones that can keep the blood glucose high for a time. It's a protection mechanism.
It is possible (but by no means certain) that this is what's going on with Boo. It would be great to be able to see some 'real time' blood glucose results...

You’ve said you do want to learn to hometest, so well done for that. That's just what is needed here. And we can help you learn to do that.
Here's the link to the FDMB page of info, tips, tricks, and little videos on hometesting:
Hometesting Links and Tips

In a nutshell, hometesting involves pricking the outer edge of the cat's ear to get a teensy droplet of blood, transferring that to a test strip in a glucose meter, and waiting for the meter to count down and give the result. Like anything new it can take a few goes to get the hang of it, so do be patient with yourself.

Most of us reward our cats with a cuddle or a low carb treat for each test and attempted test; and they can very quickly learn that 'test = yummy treat time'.

Ears bleed much more easily when they are warm.

Massaging the ear briefly can increase blood flow. Or some folks use a 'rice sock' (see link above) or a pill bottle filled with warm water to hold inside the ear to warm it.

It helps to hold something against the inside of the ear while you are pricking the outside, the lancet needs something to resist, otherwise it can push the ear away. You can use a piece of folded tissue, or cotton wool, or (as I do) just a finger tip; but you may also prick your own finger that way sometimes...

Massaging immediately below the ear prick can 'milk' more blood out. The blood flow runs from the tip of the ear downwards, so massaging below the ear prick will help you catch some of that blood that's on the way down.

Doing two ear pricks very close together can often produce enough for a test where a single ear prick seems to have not produced enough.

A teesny weensy smidge of vaseline on the outer edge of the ear will help the blood to 'bead up' and stop it disappearing into the fur.
Some cats are OK with being held or restrained, and some aren't. Mine isn't, so I crumble a few treats and test him while he's munching on those.

It is well worth practicing on yourself or another willing human volunteer, just to get the hang of the actual testing process. But remember that your cat will not feel the test like you do. When we prick our fingers it can sting just a little, but fingers have evolved to be sensitive; there are very few nerve endings in the outer edge of the cat's ear.

Don't be discouraged if you don't get a successful test the first time. You may feel that you don't have enough hands at first, but it does soon get easier; and when you get the hang of it a test can be done in just seconds.
Please do post if you need any help.

Regarding diet; what exactly are you feeding Boo at the moment?

Eliz