5 pokes, no blood

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Naio

Naio

Member Since 2015
Hello everyone :)

I am a newbie, and am having trouble getting blood from my kitty.

I think the problem is that he has a dark line of fur around each ear, right where the vein is. So I am just guessing where to poke based on internet photos. The backs of his ears are all dark fur.

Suggestions?

Here is my intro thread, with lots of other details about stuff, but not really about the poking.

Any help is appreciated!
 

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Sue and Oliver (GA) said:
Ssome people cut the hair on the sweet spot.

What size gauge lancet? At first it can take the larger size - 25 to 27 gauge
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Ah, yes, I only have 30 right now. Working on getting bigger.

For clarity, I did get SOME blood, ONE time, but not enough. I get blood out of me, including side of my palm, and he jumps at the poke...

Shaving is an idea!
 
Do you have something behind the ear to poke against? Some people use a folded kleenix; we used a small make up sponge.

If you get a tiny bit of blood, you can milk it, pushing from the capillary toward the spot you poked.

But the bigger size lancet may be the secret. Until you get some, you can double poke to make a bigger hole - a quick second poke in the same spot.
 
Are you heating his ear before poking? A small sock fill with rice and microwaved about 15-20 seconds or a small pill bottle filled with warm water (test against your wrist like a baby bottle) can really help!
 
Chris & China said:
Are you heating his ear before poking?
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Yes, lots. Like 10 minutes.

Sue and Oliver (GA) said:
Do you have something behind the ear to poke against?
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Yes. folded napkin.

If you get a tiny bit of blood, you can milk it, pushing from the capillary toward the spot you poked.
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I tried! And tried...

But the bigger size lancet may be the secret. Until you get some, you can double poke to make a bigger hole - a quick second poke in the same spot.
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Ah, ok, I will try that.
 
You could also try poking from the inside of his ear - that might make it easier to see what you're doing. As you can see from my pic, Rosa has black ears to match the rest of her and it doesn't make it easy to either see where to poke or to see if you've got blood after you do poke! So I am familiar with the problem!! The other thing you can try is shining a bright flashlight through his ear so you can see the blood vessels...or sitting him next to a window with the sun coming in works too (and the sun will help warm his ear)!
 
manxcat419 said:
You could also try poking from the inside of his ear - that might make it easier to see what you're doing. As you can see from my pic, Rosa has black ears to match the rest of her and it doesn't make it easy to either see where to poke or to see if you've got blood after you do poke! So I am familiar with the problem!! The other thing you can try is shining a bright flashlight through his ear so you can see the blood vessels...or sitting him next to a window with the sun coming in works too (and the sun will help warm his ear)!
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I'm already doing from the inside, but I can try a flashlight!
 
Oh I feel YA. Practice honey. I'm lucky FRED has white fur and pink ears. I warm his ear with a warm cloth. Use cotton ball behind the ear to protect my finger and stabilize the prick. It'll get easier.
 
The flashlight REALLY helped me to begin with. Once you know where to poke, you won't need it any more but it can make it a lot easier to get started. :)
 
Hello, I too am a newbie to testing my fur ball.:bighug: You definitely came to the right place, the people here are great! I used the rice in a sock to warm her ear (microwaved it 20 seconds) it took a few minutes, I also rubbed her ear for a minute or so. I used the light in my phone to find her vein that runs along the edge of her ear, aimed just above it, placed folded klenex behind her ear and did 2 pokes because I was using a 30 guage lancett. :)
 
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Oy, vey. Just tried to give him a shot (1 unit), and for the first time he struggled. Not sure any of it went in him. He is tired of having holes poked in him.
 
Fur shots happen to us all. Try not to worry too much - if he didn't get the insulin, he'll get back on track tomorrow. Even if you think he didn't get any of the shot, it's important NOT to try and re-shoot - if you do that and he got some or even all of the first shot, you could easily overdose him. :eek: You might find it easier to give him his shot while he's eating in future, or distract him with a low carb treat to stop him struggling.
 
I went thru that very thing and after numerous MELTDOWNS I called my vet and said I can't do this! He suggested poking the paw pad. They don't have much feeling and the blood comes easily when pumped a little.

I'd gently lay Goof on the counter and love him up a little. Have everything ready to go before you begin. I'd lay my forearm lengthwise on his body so I could still use that hand, then I'd lift the paw and rub it gently for a couple of seconds. Then while talking softly to him (so he wouldn't hear the click sound) I'd do the poke, set the clicker down and do few pumps on just the pad, around the poke hole. Then take your sample. If I'd seen his method in the beginning it would've been so much easier and more relaxed you are thru it, the easier it'll be.

In the 8 months I've been testing Goof, there's never been any trouble with infection as the hole is so tiny and it seals up so fast that if for some reason you get an error code with your strip, you'll have to re-poke.
 
Well, now I have a new problem! He won't eat.

Over the past few days, he has been increasingly reluctant to eat the wet food he loves, which I give before shots. I thought maybe he was associating it with the shot so I gave him the dry food. He did the same as he does with the wet -- nibble or two, then looks at me like he wants me to fix something that is wrong.

Could the insulin be hurting his stomach?

H had possibly no shot last night, and now none this morning, so I am a little concerned.

(YEs, I took away the food bowl 6 hours ago; he is not full.)
 
Have you tried sprinkling his favorite treat on top of some wet? Both Bonito flakes and Pure Bites work well. Also some cats just don't like the pate. If you add a little warm water and make a gravy, sometimes that helps. Forti
Flora also works well for some cats. (Get on line or from your vet. It's a probiotic that has the flavor enchancer that makes dry food so irrestible.

Your signature says he has had pancreatitis. Could this be a flare up? Do you have some pain/tummy meds for him?
 
The wet food IS his treat :(.

I dunno about pancreatitis.

Am sick myself, and flustrated.
 
He is also uncomfortable walking. Dunno if this is paws or legs or dog injuries. Poor baby, I do not know how to help him. He went back to bed and is not now accessible. (Since dog attack he sleeps in a hiding place behind/under furniture. )

He was pleased with cuddles, and purry, just not wanting to eat or walk much.
 
I am sorry you guys are having such a hard day. How about taking a break (both of you) and when he comes out next, try feeding him wet food off your fingers. I know this sounds indulgent but sometimes it is a kick start to get them eating again.

The looking at the food and walking away (does he also lick his lips) sound like pancreatitis. Did he have it before?

I am concerned that he has not had a shot and is not eating anything. But since he is hiding, maybe give it a while. Could you call the vet and ask about the pancreatitis? Tell her he is not eating and you are afraid to give insulin.

Another thing that sometimes work is meat baby food (the brands without spices or onions). You might try one can of that and see if he likes it - even off your fingers.
 
Massaging the ear also helps. Start massaging towards the tip for a minute or two to get the blood flowing. After you poke you may need to massage it a little more to help push the blood towards the hole.
 
Thank you, everyone :) :)

I talked to my vet office and they are booked today but suggested I pick up a bag of subQ fluids in a few hours so I will do that. He is so furry it's hard to tell, but I do think he is a bit dehydrated. If that doesn't fix him they can see him in the morning.

He does lick his nose when he thinks about eating. I have some antinausea med but it makes him wired. I have some buprenex, might try that this eve if it seems warranted when he comes out.

I can hear him snoring in there :).

The paw pad idea is a good one. He has pain in his toes, so I will have to see, but he might go for it.
 
If he doesn't eat, you could feed him baby food or wet food through a syringe. (A big syringe for baby meds, not a little one like we use to give them insulin.)

When I was first testing my cat someone told me to put a thin layer of vaseline or neosporin or polysporin on the ear. That helps the blood bead up. Otherwise the blood sort of spreads into the fur but when you coat the ear with one of these it beads up nicely. That really helped me.
 
I will try the syringe next time, thank you! I have syringes, but didn't think of it.

He came out, ate a bit of dry food, went back to sleep on couch with me. I guess this tiredness is due to lack of insulin? And lack of food, maybe. He ate some but not like a cat who had not eaten in 12 hours.

So, now I wait till the next shot time, in 5 hours, I guess?
 
How bad does it mess up your 12/12 schedule if you would shoot now? If he ate, it'd be good for him to have insulin. (You skipped this am, right?)
 
Sue and Oliver (GA) said:
How bad does it mess up your 12/12 schedule if you would shoot now? If he ate, it'd be good for him to have insulin. (You skipped this am, right?)
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I would have to be up for 3 hours in the middle of the night. I am seriously ill too, so I will not do that. One of us has to be able to function.

Would it work to give him a little now and a little at the regular pm time? I cannot test him today.
 
In general, it is best to shoot 12 hours apart. Splitting the dose worked today because you hadn't given a shot today. But, for instance, if you shot half at 6 am and then half 6 hours later, the later shot would still be working when it was time to shoot at 6pm. You don't want to add insulin onto insulin that is still working.

There are some ways to work with ProZinc and dose differently but we only encourage them if the regular way doesn't work. And you don't really know how he is doing with regular dosing until you get some data.
 
Sue and Oliver (GA) said:
In general, it is best to shoot 12 hours apart. Splitting the dose worked today because you hadn't given a shot today. But, for instance, if you shot half at 6 am and then half 6 hours later, the later shot would still be working when it was time to shoot at 6pm. You don't want to add insulin onto insulin that is still working.

There are some ways to work with ProZinc and dose differently but we only encourage them if the regular way doesn't work. And you don't really know how he is doing with regular dosing until you get some data.
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Ok, thank you :).
 
Ok, I gave him 0.5. Now I am worried that when I give him sub Q fluids that will mess things up.

Plus I am having a meltdown over my vet's office staff. I understand they have emergencies, stress, etc. But today, after the zillionth time of calling in to make an appointment or ask a question and being yelled at, I am wondering if I have to find a new vet. The next one is miles away. And my vet is excellent, as is the office lady who has been there the longest. But the newer ones, oy. I mean, heck, I am a business owner. I don't yell at people. And I am always super nice to these ladies, if I make a mistake I own it and apologise, I don't call the office every day or every week or anything, I pay my bills instantly. I can't think of ANY reason why they act like this.

I tried calling on of them on it, in a gentle, joking, friendly way. She apologised. But now she does it even more. I'm thinking of bringing it up to the vet next time I talk to her. That or asking the office ladies straight up why they think this is an ok way to treat people.
 
Naio said:
Ok, I gave him 0.5. Now I am worried that when I give him sub Q fluids that will mess things up.

Plus I am having a meltdown over my vet's office staff. I understand they have emergencies, stress, etc. But today, after the zillionth time of calling in to make an appointment or ask a question and being yelled at, I am wondering if I have to find a new vet. The next one is miles away. And my vet is excellent, as is the office lady who has been there the longest. But the newer ones, oy. I mean, heck, I am a business owner. I don't yell at people. And I am always super nice to these ladies, if I make a mistake I own it and apologise, I don't call the office every day or every week or anything, I pay my bills instantly. I can't think of ANY reason why they act like this.

I tried calling on of them on it, in a gentle, joking, friendly way. She apologised. But now she does it even more. I'm thinking of bringing it up to the vet next time I talk to her. That or asking the office ladies straight up why they think this is an ok way to treat people.
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Oh I hear you on this one and your reasoning. It's SO hard when vets are busy and not responding and you're getting yelled at by staff. Yet, when we are panicked, not getting answers or appointments makes it seem even more dire, doesn't it? It's kind of like having to go to vet school on your own, isn't it? I'm so sorry. I know how hard this is.

For you, this is an emergency. For them...not so much and you're only getting the "front line" of girls who have a schedule that vets tell them to follow and that's all that they know.

You might want to try to get ahold of your vet, personally and tell him/her what you are encountering and ask him/her if there's a way to get through and at least, get an appointment as you're not out to abuse the office/appointments or phone calls but, that you're new to all of this, having trouble and things are worrying you.

Hopefully, you'll get the vet to give instructions at the front desk to allow you to get at least a call-back or a note that tells them to squeeze you in. Try that first and if that doesn't work, you may have to find a vet who will work with you. We all face that issue and get lucky when we get a vet who will work with us.

Edited to add...the subQ fluids won't likely, in and of themselves, cause any problems BUT, the stress of doing it might raise the BG a bit through stress. Let kitty calm down for a couple of hours and try feeding and re-testing. Don't worry...we all have times like this! You're not alone in that.

HUGS :bighug:
 
I was not panicking or thinking this was an emergency. Actually, the opposite -- I was afraid they would tell me to bring him in and I didn't want to; I wanted to wait and see if he would sort himself out.

I just called because I figured if I didn't they would yell at me for not calling. I feel like there is nothing I can do that pleases these people.

One thing I like about this office is that I can always get the vet on the phone when I need her. I guess another way to say that is that we have pretty well the same sense of what constitutes urgent.

But the grouching, I am sick of it.

Thank you for the empathy :). I figured folks here would know what I was going through.
 
If you need to search for another vet, there are some Vet Interview Topics in my signature.
It is OK to be assertive with the front line staff and put a bit of frost in your voice when you get a front line person 'yelling' at you.
ie "Stop right there. I am a paying customer of the vet and I don't appreciate that disrespectful tone of voice."

(*GRUMP!!!*)
 
Naio said:
Hello everyone :)

I am a newbie, and am having trouble getting blood from my kitty.

I think the problem is that he has a dark line of fur around each ear, right where the vein is. So I am just guessing where to poke based on internet photos. The backs of his ears are all dark fur.

Suggestions?

Here is my intro thread, with lots of other details about stuff, but not really about the poking.

Any help is appreciated!
Click to expand...

Naio, I've been home-monitoring for nearly a month and was initially having trouble getting blood. In the last 2 weeks I've commenced vigorous ear play (rubbing, scratching and tickling for about a minute) and making sure I press the poker firmly against Misty's ear and usually get sufficient blood on the first go. :-)
 
BJM said:
If you need to search for another vet, there are some Vet Interview Topics in my signature.
It is OK to be assertive with the front line staff and put a bit of frost in your voice when you get a front line person 'yelling' at you.
ie "Stop right there. I am a paying customer of the vet and I don't appreciate that disrespectful tone of voice."

(*GRUMP!!!*)
Click to expand...

I totally agree BJ!
 
I am still having trouble getting him to eat.

It varies... sometimes I think he is getting better, and then no. He wants to eat, but something stops him after a few bites. He waits a while, then tries again. I think it's his stomach (pain or nausea) but I am not sure.

I have not tried the fluids, because he does not seem dehydrated since the first day (and because he is sick of pokes). I haven't tried the syringe feeding because it doesn't address the root problem and he does eat enough for shots if I follow him around with a food bowl for an hour.

I feel I am missing something.
 
Naio said:
I am still having trouble getting him to eat.

It varies... sometimes I think he is getting better, and then no. He wants to eat, but something stops him after a few bites. He waits a while, then tries again. I think it's his stomach (pain or nausea) but I am not sure.

I have not tried the fluids, because he does not seem dehydrated since the first day (and because he is sick of pokes). I haven't tried the syringe feeding because it doesn't address the root problem and he does eat enough for shots if I follow him around with a food bowl for an hour.

I feel I am missing something.
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Maybe, you are better off to either talk directly to your vet with your concerns and questions...or, try another vet and start from scratch with blood work and urinalysis???? I don't think anyone here can qualify to answer your questions as much as I'm sure all of us would love to do it. No one here is a vet. Unfortunately. :(

I am just going through an eating issue with my own cat whom I worked with diligently to get off of kibble and onto canned foods. She had a couple of set-backs. 1) I introduced a new kibble too quickly and gave her diarrhoea which took about 3 days to clear up by going back to her old kibble and had to start all over again to get her back to canned foods. Then, just as I had succeeded in doing that, she vomited a large fur ball and stopped eating for over 24 hours. Back to the vet's. She was only "nibbling" for a couple of days again. Now, she is right back to fully kibble as that's all that she'll eat again. So, I understand the frustration of what to do with insulin when a cat doesn't eat and you can't get them to eat.

You're right. The reason for the lack of appetite is not being answered by anyone right now and you're certainly right to want to know why rather than just force feeding with a syringe. It may be stomach upset and it may require some med to quieten down the stomach pain/upset??? But, there again...this is where you're going to need a vet to help with those things. At least, that's my personal opinion and it doesn't reflect other's opinions.

I think the members here are fantastic and have a LOT of knowledge but, again...no one here is a vet and therefore, there are times when they are unable to give concrete answers as they can only go by what they see written here, cat unseen and lack of veterinarian school, testing abilities etc.. This is where a vet has the "hands-on" ability, testing abilities as well as your cat to view.

I hate to refer you back to your vet like this but, sometimes...it's the ONLY way to deal with things...in spite of hoping that there's another answer as none of us like to take our cats to the vets. It's quite the ordeal for both us and our cats...as well as our wallets and TIME! But, I can say one thing...even though you are not panicked or said you weren't a few posts back...the fact that you're unable to get your cat to eat IS a concern because of the diabetes especially. And every cat who doesn't eat (diabetic or not), runs the risk of liver issues and kidney issues if they're not eating. Having said that, I am not saying it to panic you by any means. Just pointing out that asking here, given your cat's circumstances, may not net you the answers you're looking for. Only a vet might be able to give you those answers and I'd say...make an appointment sooner rather than later to get them answered for your peace of mind and for your cat's health sake. I say that with only love and concern for both of you. :bighug: :bighug:

I'm editing to add that in circumstances when cats aren't eating...firstly, it's my understanding (and I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong) that we don't give insulin if the cat isn't eating enough.
Secondly, if your cat has an issue with eating wet foods, you might try crushing some kibble (almost powder like) and mixing it with the wet food to make it thicker, putting it into the fridge to make it more solid, cut it into "chunk slices" then, heat it to just luke warm and see if Mehmet will eat those pieces ok.
Alternatively, you can mix water with it to a "soup like texture" and see if Mehmet will sort of lap it up???
Someone also told me to use a quarter of a Pepcid tablet (nothing added...just straight Pepcid) about an hour before. *IF* there is any stomach pain, that may help with that.

You may also want to check Mehmet's teeth and palate (easier said than done, I know) to see if you can see any mouth issues that may be making Mehmet not want to eat.

One trial might be to give Mehmet foods that are NOT really diabetic foods and see if that can be eaten. If cats can eat foods that they love, there's usually more of an "I don't like what you're giving me" type of issue. If that isn't it...then, there's an issue that needs a vet's attention to figure it out and help both of you.

Again....:bighug:
 
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Thank you, Louellen :).

I agree about seeing the vet. They won't be open till Monday, though. So far, I don't think it's quite at the level for a trip to the ER.

I had forgotten that pepcid is ok for cats. I might try that. IIRC, the cat dose is 1/10 of a pill, but I can check that.

Sigh..
 
Great, Nalo. I am unsure of the dosage so, yes...please double check that and let me know as well, please. I haven't tried it but, I might need to. :bighug:
 
This sounds like possibly pancreas. I think a visit to the vet is a good idea too. It sounds like it maybe hurts him to eat or he is nauseated. Pain medication might be a good idea and something for the nausea.
 
The plain Pepcid AC is 1/4 of a 10 mg pill.
Abdominal pain can be many things - inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), constipation, intestinal lymphoma, infection, pancreatitis and more. These need to be ruled in or out by the vet.
It can take several trials of medications and/or supplements to find what works best for your cat, regardless of diagnosis.
 
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Ugh, it's so hard when they can't tell us what's wrong! Good luck at the vet tomorrow and let us know what happens.
 
Hi folks --

I still can't get testing going, all the same problems, thought I'd see if anyone has any new ideas.

My main problem with testing is that he is nauseous (we think) and won't eat. So treats as a reward are not an option.

The vet ran lots more tests and sent him to a veterinary internist, thinking she would do an abdominal ultrasound. But internist said there is nothing she could find that would be treatable other than with the symptomatic care he is currently on (cerenia, ondansetron, and pepcid).

I'm doing everything I have found here on the forum re: testing (heat ear, rub ear, painkilling topical gel, flashlight, shaving, bigger lancets) but I get no blood and kitty gets mad. I tried the paw pads, too, but kitty said the idea that it hurts less was BS ;).

So, basically there is no reward for either of us (no blood for me and no treat he can eat) and other kitty health stuff to worry about so we just don't do it. This is not an optimal solution!

PS: How do I test for ketones if he only pees when I am asleep or out? He's private like that.
 
Hi Naio,

How warm is the device you're using to heat the ear? I was very nervous of hurting Saoirse's ear when I first started and I didn't warm it up enough (nor for long enough). I use a plastic pipette filled with hot water. I warm about half a teacupful in the microwave for 30 seconds then stick my finger in it to gauge the temperature. If it's fairly hot but I can hold my finger in it then it's about the right temperature: plastic's not a great conductor of heat so the water's not as hot on Saoirse's ear as it is on my finger in the cup. I stand the pipette in the cup of warmed water to hold in the heat while I get her ear ready for testing (vaseline smear).

Make sure you have everything ready to go when performing the test. The ear cools down fairly quickly once the heat source is removed.

To test for ketones, you could use a fresh litter back and non-absorbent litter to collect a sample, or you could get a blood ketone meter. Obviously you'd need to crack the testing technique first for the latter option.


Mogs
.
 
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Thanks, Mogs :).

Critter Mom said:
Hi Naio,

How long are you heating the ear for? Especially in the early days it really can take much longer than one might think. (I had that problem.)
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I didn't time it. Maybe 10 minutes? Or 5 if it is warmer? As long as he would put up with it, and until ear was very warm and pink. What do you recommend?

To test for ketones, you could use a fresh litter back and non-absorbent litter to collect a sample, or you could get a blood ketone meter. Obviously you'd need to crack the testing technique first for the latter option.
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But the pee has to be fresh, not hours old, right? Or did I misunderstand?

If I am not around when he pees I don't know how old the pee is.
 
Oops! You were quick off the mark. I tweaked my previous post to give a few more tips.

Timing-wise, I'd aim to warm the ear for about 30-40 seconds to start with. Push the test strip into your meter while you're waiting for the ear to warm. Try to get the support (cotton ball or folded strip of kitchen paper) under the sweet spot as quickly as possible and then poke while the ear is still warm.

Re the pee, to the best of my knowledge (and others may correct me) if it's a few hours old then it should still be fine to test it for ketones.


Mogs
.
 
Critter Mom said:
Oops! You were quick off the mark. I tweaked my previous post to give a few more tips.

Timing-wise, I'd aim to warm the ear for about 30-40 seconds to start with. Push the test strip into your meter while you're waiting for the ear to warm. Try to get the support (cotton ball or folded strip of kitchen paper) under the sweet spot as quickly as possible and then poke while the ear is still warm.

Re the pee, to the best of my knowledge (and others may correct me) if it's a few hours old then it should still be fine to test it for ketones.


Mogs
.
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Thanks, and I read your updated post :).

Mehmet will be glad to hear that the heating time is less than I thought :). I have used a wet washcloth in baggie, and a heating pad, at different times. I think is plenty hot. I allow for the fact that cat body temp is higher than human.

Timing, I don't know. Does the ear cool off quickly? I may be too slow. I have the meter ready, but the rest takes some juggling and I have some nerve damage in my hands so I am clumsy. And kitty is wiggly! There is maybe 15 seconds after heat is off and before poke. Worst case, 30. Again,I have not timed this, but my work involves timing things so I have a decent sense of time. I could try to watch the clock next time.

If I try to get a flashlight in there it adds to the time. I did it a couple times to see where the vein was and subsequently just went by memory.
 
I looked for Saoirse's vein just the once. Now I just aim the lancet tip for a spot about 1mm in from the edge of the ear. I feel for you over the nerve damage problem. The nerves in my hands are fine but the ones in my brain not so much. I have PTSD which means I shake a lot. I freehand the actual poke but I need to put the lancet into the lancing device; I can't hold the lancet itself steady enough.

The ear cools really quickly. The ear tip is an extremity, so the body likes to keep the blood flow to a minimum so as to conserve heat.

.
 
Naio said:
Hi folks --

I still can't get testing going, all the same problems, thought I'd see if anyone has any new ideas.

My main problem with testing is that he is nauseous (we think) and won't eat. So treats as a reward are not an option.

The vet ran lots more tests and sent him to a veterinary internist, thinking she would do an abdominal ultrasound. But internist said there is nothing she could find that would be treatable other than with the symptomatic care he is currently on (cerenia, ondansetron, and pepcid).

I'm doing everything I have found here on the forum re: testing (heat ear, rub ear, painkilling topical gel, flashlight, shaving, bigger lancets) but I get no blood and kitty gets mad. I tried the paw pads, too, but kitty said the idea that it hurts less was BS ;).

So, basically there is no reward for either of us (no blood for me and no treat he can eat) and other kitty health stuff to worry about so we just don't do it. This is not an optimal solution!

PS: How do I test for ketones if he only pees when I am asleep or out? He's private like that.
Click to expand...


I'm so sorry Naio that Mehmet is giving you such a quandary to deal with.

If he will only pee when you are asleep, that's a bit of a problem as I believe that you have to check it when urine is fresh. A lot of members will roll some plastic sheets such as Saran Wrap around the edges of the box, just on top of the litter and hope that their cat will get some urine into the crinkles and dip a test strip in, called a Ketostix. (It measures ketones in the urine). But, if Mehmet is going to the litter box when you're not around (as does my cat :)) then, it's pretty hard, I know.

I found with Morrigan, who also gets quite angry, that it took 2 of us (husband and I) to get a sample from her. One to hold her and the other to test her. (Hubby refuses to test so, I do that part). I find that I have to give her quite a bit of an ear "massage" to get the blood running to the ear. I rub her ear, talk to her, sing to her, give her pats etc. while rubbing her ear, in circles and from the inside edge towards the outside edge. When I see her ear looking "pink"...I know that i have circulation going. Mehmet DOES have blood running through his ears or he'd have no ears LOL ;) I have NO luck with paw pads either and she is FURIOUS with us when I try that method! But, believe it or not, once you get the blood flowing, you can get some blood and it does get easier with time as the ears will bleed more easily.

As for treats...it doesn't necessarily have to be something he eats. It could be just loving or playing with him afterwards...just something that he can connect with the idea of "put up with this and I'll get love/play time," type of idea. Have you tried cat nip? Just a tiny pinch? If Mehmet likes cat nip, you might try to put some down AFTER you've gotten the sample??? I do that with Morrigan as she has digestive issues so, she now knows that once she's finished the test and shot, she'll get some cat nip and a bit of play time (even if only 2 minutes worth).

Ok, that said, if you can't get a test from him right now, have you spoken to your vet about this? I know the safest way to dose our cats is to test first and I'm not saying to give up on trying it BUT...has your vet had any ideas on how to test at home or is he/she against it or doesn't recommend it? Some people don't bother with testing at all BUT, will take their cats into the vet's office on a regular basis for testing (curves) and leave them for the day to have it done. It can be expensive and not accurate but, it's better that than nothing and working blindly. My first diabetic cat (over a decade ago now), never was home tested. No one did it back then. Dangerous with what I know now but, no one home tested when he was diagnosed and no one ever suggested it. We'd take him in every once in awhile and have his curve done in the clinic.

This is especially, hard when Mehmet isn't eating properly as giving insulin to a cat who won't eat properly or enough is dangerous but, not giving him insulin is also a danger. I see your issue and why you're so stuck!

I think, in spite of everyone's best advice in here, (no one is a vet) you might want to talk to Mehmet's vet and get some help in getting his appetite to pick up. Even if you have to leave him in the clinic for a couple of days to get him started on testing and appetite stimulants and blood work etc., you might be better off than trying to rip your hair out by the roots. Remember too that when YOU are frustrated and anxious...Mehmet feels it too. That sets off a bad chain of reactions from both of you.

Can you get someone to help you with him? Maybe, someone can rub his head or distract him while you try to rub/massage his ear more? How are you using the lancet? Are you placing something hard underneath his ear where you're poking? Try describing HOW you're doing this testing so that we might be able to see how you're doing it and perhaps, see something that you might try differently (if possible). I know this is frustrating but, I'm sure others will join in with this as well. We'll work it out somehow. Every cat will bleed. :) Let's work on it together. :) :bighug:

ETA: Try also setting aside a "treat" for you too! Whatever it is that you would enjoy after testing and shooting....try having that in mind. For me..it's a nice cup of tea afterwards as I enter her numbers into both a booklet and her SS online sheets. :) If chocolate or a biscuit or something else is good for you...do whatever it is that makes YOU look forward to a reward afterwards too. I know it sounds silly but, it's what keeps me calmer when I'm testing Morrigan (also difficult to test). I know that at the end of it all, Im going to get a "reward" too! :)
 
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