new to this board--hi everyone!--questions

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TMR

Member Since 2013
My cat, Midnight, was just diagnosed Friday. She had been thirstier than usual and urinating more than usual for about a week. And she had lost 2 pounds in about 8 months. I feel like a bad mom because I didn't notice the weight loss. She is a black fluffy kitty with a hangy downy belly so it wasn't obvious. I don't know why she didn't seem lighter when I picked her up. The diagnosis was a bit overwhelming, mostly emotionally but also financially--about $500 in one day for the vet, food, and insulin/syringes. I am a little confused about a couple things. The vet told me to cut her lantus dose in half if she doesn't eat well (I think). I think they said to call if she doesn't eat at all. What if the office is closed? Should I call the emergency number? She is a grazer. I think they said it is ok to leave her food bowl out all the time. She doesn't have to eat her whole meal at once. I can still give her the insulin as long as she eats a good part of it right away. Does this sound right? And about dry vs wet food: she has eaten dry food her whole life. This website gives me the impression that she should be switched to wet food. Is this really necessary? About expenses--any recs on less expensive food, less expensive insulin, and less expensive syringes would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Welcome, you've stumbled apon a great resource.
first off breath. FD can be managed.
Switching to wet can be instramental in helping with FD.
Are you home testing?
Have you shot her already?
 
I gave her one dose Friday evening, one Saturday morning, and one Saturday evening. Have not really thought about home testing yet. Still learning about the whole thing. I am a one-thing, one-day-at-a-time person. Get over the initial shock first. Give the insulin. Then figure out if I should switch to wet food (and if I can afford it). So I am working on the insulin/when to call the vet first. Then moving on to the type and brand of food. THEN I will think about home testing!
 
Home testing seems scary at first but is key in treating and handleing this disease.

Your gonna find most people here will agree, home testing can save your kitty's life and isn't as horrible as it seems, especially when you know you can controll FD with it, gives you sercurity, will help ease the stress and won't have to depend on your vet and safe you money not having to go to them.

Home Testing

with out testing you might not catch a hypo if you shoot to low

How to treat Hypo's, They can kill. Print this out
 
TMR said:
My cat, Midnight, was just diagnosed Friday. She had been thirstier than usual and urinating more than usual for about a week. And she had lost 2 pounds in about 8 months. I feel like a bad mom because I didn't notice the weight loss. She is a black fluffy kitty with a hangy downy belly so it wasn't obvious. I don't know why she didn't seem lighter when I picked her up. The diagnosis was a bit overwhelming, mostly emotionally but also financially--about $500 in one day for the vet, food, and insulin/syringes. I am a little confused about a couple things. The vet told me to cut her lantus dose in half if she doesn't eat well (I think). I think they said to call if she doesn't eat at all. What if the office is closed? Should I call the emergency number? She is a grazer. I think they said it is ok to leave her food bowl out all the time. She doesn't have to eat her whole meal at once. I can still give her the insulin as long as she eats a good part of it right away. Does this sound right? And about dry vs wet food: she has eaten dry food her whole life. This website gives me the impression that she should be switched to wet food. Is this really necessary? About expenses--any recs on less expensive food, less expensive insulin, and less expensive syringes would be appreciated. Thanks!

Welcome!
here's the quik n dirty...
1. home testing is needed to keep your cat safe.
2. yup, gotta switch to wet food for the good of the cat.

The food..... see catinfo.org for all sorts of reasons and explanations why. The best food list was recently compiled by Dr. Lisa.... go with carbs under 10% and you are OK. Lots feed closer to 5%, but so long as you stick to under 10, you're good. Pick up a couple cans for higher carb to feed if your cat goes too low on the insulin.
http://catinfo.org/docs/FoodChartPublic9-22-12.pdf
You can feed Friskies or FancyFeast pates, or even the more economical pates like Special Kitty if you like; just stay clear of the grilled and marinated and all the gravy ones.... they are full of carbs.

The home testing.... you will save yourself lots of worries and a ton of cash because you will know what your cat's BG numbers are, and you won't have to waste all the money on curves done at the vet office which are useless because cats are stressed at the vet and that just makes their numbers higher. Everyone just tests their cat at home and it's way better.
Depending where you are, if in the US, pick up a Relion meter and strips and lancets if you want the most economical meter. It's a good meter. If outside of the US, I like the Bayer contour and also any of the OneTouch meters. .... lots of youtubes to watch to see how to home test - just a poke on the edge of the ear, then sip up the drop of blood on the test strip in the meter. It may be frustrating in the start to get it right, but it's worth it in the long run.

One other thing you can get at the pharmacy would be a container of KETOSTIX so you can test your cat's urine for ketones.... very important to know if your cat is prone to ketones or not as they are pretty serious and need handling as soon as they are seen.

The switch to the wet food is pretty important, but if you can't switch, you are going to have a rough time in regulating your cat's blood sugar as the dry food will make the numbers all wonky and high.
That's just how it is.
There are a great many cats who are DIET CONTROLLED ... they switched to wet food and their numbers came tumbling down and they did NOT need any insulin.... it's worth a try to get your cat onto wet food because it may mean the difference of insulin for life or not.

There are a few cats who just will NOT switch and their owners just need to adapt and adjust the dosing based on the numbers, and it's a bit of an up and down with the dry food in the picture.
On the catinfo.org site, there are lots of ways to help with switching over, and many people on this site will have suggestions for you.

Gayle
 
I bought one can of wet food, when I got the diabetic dry food at the vet, just in case she didn't like the new food. So last night she didn't want to eat much and I decided to see if she would eat any of the wet food. I gave her a couple teaspoons and she gobbled it right up! Now I have more questions: how much to give her and can I just switch to the wet food, or do I need to gradually switch over? I don't want to send her into hypoglycemia!

I understand about the testing and I will look into that immediately.

What would you suggest about giving the shots: if she eats some of her food, ok to give? If she only eats a little, give half (if I can even measure 1/2 unit)? If she doesn't eat at all, don't give the insulin and call the vet? Or just don't give the insulin and if she doesn't eat the next meal either, call the vet?
 
This may appear twice--sorry if it does.

Does the wet food say it is for diabetic cats, or do you just have to read the label for the carb content?
 
I still don't know if I should switch "cold turkey" to wet food or gradually change over. Someone on another thread said "We do recommend a change to wet canned with under 10%carbs but only if you are home testing.". So do I need to get a testing meter first, and then switch to wet food?
 
Hi,

For a cat on insulin absolutely DO NOT switch to low carb wet food unless you are testing your cat's blood glucose at home.

Dry food elevates blood glucose levels. Therefore removing dry food lowers glucose levels. An insulin dose that may have been OK when the cat was on dry food may need lowering when the cat is on wet low carb food. Too much insulin can cause hypoglycemia.

Oh, and welcome to FDMB! :smile:

Edited to add: So yes, you're absolutely correct. 1. Learn to hometest. 2. Phase out the dry food.
 
TMR said:
This may appear twice--sorry if it does.

Does the wet food say it is for diabetic cats, or do you just have to read the label for the carb content?
Hi,

here is a link to really good post that has a list of low carb wet foods in the US:
http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=87391

The food doesn't need to be 'special' diabetic food; just a decent quality ordinary everyday kind of low carb wet/canned.

Eliz
 
TMR said:
So until I get a glucose meter, I should continue the dry food?

Yes! That's the way to keep your kitty safe.

For a cat already on insulin the rule is; learn to test first and then switch to wet food. That way you can lower the insulin dose if necessary.
 
Here is a link to a good page of basic info and pics about hometesting;
http://www.sugarpet.net/bloodtst.html

There is a LOT of other info on this site about hometesting too.

It probably sounds a bit scary at first but really isn't that hard to learn. It only involves taking the teensiest weensiest droplet of blood from the outer edge of your cat's ear, and then transferring that to a test strip in a glucose meter. Most of us use ordinary glucose meters made for humans. There are very few nerve endings in the cat's ear so testing shouldn't hurt Midnight.

Hometesting has a lot of benefits: It will enable you to know if you need to increase or decrease the insulin dose; it will help to keep Midnight safe from hypo (blood sugar that is too low); it will give you a sense of control over your cat's diabetes; and it will save you a heap of money in vet's bills.
 
Do I need to test her blood sugar every time I give her insulin (twice a day)? The vet told me to come back in 2 weeks. That is quite a drastic difference.
 
So it sounds like I should do this: 1. Get a testing kit and learn how to use it. 2. Test her blood sugar (?how often?). 3. Switch to wet food (?over how long?).

Then, how would I know how much insulin to give? Dosage based on blood sugar, or just if it is in a certain range, give the 1 unit that the vet has suggested at this point?
 
TMR said:
Do I need to test her blood sugar every time I give her insulin (twice a day)? The vet told me to come back in 2 weeks. That is quite a drastic difference.

Some vets encourage people to test their cat's blood glucose at home. Some vets are ambivalent about it. And some vets actively discourage it. The experience of people on this forum is that hometesting is vital for managing feline diabetes.

My own vet was initally opposed to my testing Bert's blood glucose at home. But now he is really supportive! Without hometesting my cat would have died long ago. But he's been diabetic now for 6 years and is thriving (touch wood, anti-jinx). My vet has never had a diabetic cat live so long after diagnosis...

The treatment of feline diabetes has evolved over the years, but many vets are somewhat outdated in their views, and tend to treat cats like small dogs, which they are not...

Cats have the unique ability to be able to go into 'remission' from diabetes. Their pancreas can start to work again (if it had stopped producing insulin), or to work more efficiently (if it had only been producing a little bit of insulin). But without hometesting things like that are hard to pick up, and an insulin dose that might be fine one week may be way too much the following week...

Some cats, like mine, are on insulin for life. But quite a few cats can go into remission; and some of those after just a short period on insulin and a change to a low carb wet diet.

'Remission' doesn't mean 'cure'. Once a cat is diabetic it will always be diabetic. Remission means that the diabetes can be diet-controlled.

Like most people on this forum I test my cat's blood glucose before every insulin shot. I do that in order to check that his blood glucose is sufficiently high for me to give that insulin dose. Then I do another test (or sometimes a number of tests) during the insulin cycle to see how well the insulin is working in his body.

Here is a link to some info about why hometesting is important:
http://www.sugarpet.net/reasons.html
 
We usually start on either .5 unit or 1 unit twice a day (every 12 hours) so find a schedule that works for you.
I used to do 6am and 6pm so I could do the shot before the kids got up for school and freaked her out :-D

Its better to be conservative on the dose and then increase gradually if you have to.

We adjust the dose based on a schedule - but the dosing experts on this site can help you with that. However, if you do test at home, newbies are advised not to shoot if bg is less than 200 on a human meter as you don't know if your cat's numbers will drop really low - then its an ER visit ($$$$).
Insulin is a depot drug, ie. it builds up in the system over time - usually takes 5-7 days for the kitty so it needs a settling-in period.

If you learn to test her bg, there's no reason why you need go to the vet - she will probably have vet stress and her numbers there would be higher anyway.
Very few of us went back to the vet after we found this site :-D

And yes, before you give her a shot you need to test her bg. It if was really low, you wouldn't shoot - it could kill her.

I know its a lot to take in - just take it one step at a time.
Try to get the home testing started first - then you can see her numbers and start to safely move her to wet food.
That will give her the best chance of being regulated (on insulin, but in safe numbers for her body) or even remission (off insulin, but diet controlled).

As you're posting late, I'm guessing you're on West Coast or a night owl :-D If you can tell us where you're located, someone may be able to come out and help with the home testing.
 
Hi & welcome to our family. My name is Kat and Gobbles is my sugar-boy; a 10 year old male, neutered grey/silver tabby who was diagnosed on 11/17/12 and started on Lantus 1 U. every 12 hours on 11/23/12. I'm in NE Ohio. I've learned so much here and have received tons of support and advice; these Boards and the people on them is immeasurable.

What's your name and what brand of insulin is Midnight? How much and how often? Did someone suggest what to buy as far as home-testing supplies?

When I was a newbie, I was strongly advised to NOT give an insulin shot if your cat's BG (blood glucose) is 200 or lower. Period.
 
Ok just fto confirm

1. Get a testing kit and learn how to use it. Many people here get the Walmart Relion brand or Arkray since its reliable and low cost.

Here is a shopping list:

1. Meter ie Walmart Relion
2. Matching strips
3. Lancets - little sticks to poke the ear to get blood . new members usually start with a larger gauge lancet such as 28g or 29g until the ear learns to bleed. Optional - lancing tool.
4. Cotton balls to stem the blood
5. Neosporin ointment to heal the wound
6. Ketone urine test strips ie Ketostix or ketodiastix - Important to check ketones when blood is high
7. Treats for the cat - like freeze dried chicken
8. karo syrup/corn syrup or honey if you dont have it at home - for hypo emergencies to bring blood sugar up fast
9. A couple of cans of fancy feast gravy lovers - for hypo emergencies to bring blood sugar up fast


2. Test her blood sugar (?how often?) Always test before every shot. Also its good to do a test 5-7 hours after shot and a before bed check if you can. That will give us an idea of the lowest point of the day in order to decide if a dose change is necessary. Here are some testing tips . And track your results on a spreadsheet.

3. Switch to wet food (?over how long?). As soon as you are home testing I would switch as fast as she will let you, keeping an eye on her for any stomach issues. Maybe over a week is safe.


4. how would I know how much insulin to give? Generally we use the below formula and adjust dose based on this protocol.
With Lantus, starting dose can be calculated using a weight-based formula:
initial dose = 0.25 x ideal weight in kilograms

Wendy
 
(Wendy--didn't you have that shopping list or some other type of link in your signature not too long ago? I'd love to be able to find it in a snap....)
 
Test her blood sugar (?how often?).
Always test before feeding and before giving insulin. Spot checks during the cycle also help as does doing a curve when you have a day to do one. Some cats go into remission just from removing all dry food......some hit remission in a short while with a little help from a few days/weeks on insulin and wet food........some never (like Elizabeth's Bertie, 6 years, and my Mishka, 9 yrs. 5 months. In all those years with Mishka I have never once given her insulin without testing her first and no vet would be able to tell which ear I always use...it looks just fine. One of my other diabetics, MC, was 64 last night at her normal shot time. If I had not tested her, I hate to think what may very well have happened.

We have seen previous members come back on who knew how to test but became complacent because their kitty was always giving same numbers and doing great till suddenly a hypo happened. Never take it for granted that your cat is always going to throw basically the same readings, same dose,etc. so why bother to test.....that is how a hypo happens and sometimes we cannot stop one without ER intervention. Sometimes that insulin shot is just going to keep working hard no matter the food we give, the Karo we give, ice cream, treats, the insulin is winning that particular hypo and ER help is needed.

Hometesting is a life saver when it comes to our kitties. Don't worry about what the vet may say or think. There are many vet journals out today promoting owners to learn to do it. Bottom line is if a kitty passes away because of bad vet advice, the vet is not going to miss the cat.......the owner is. Hopefully you will learn and be able to educate some vets like many of us do. I gave one ER vet 20 pages printed out of vet journals and articles promoting it when she put hometesting down in front of me. I will also face off with a vet when it comes to hometesting because I get furious when I know that vet is telling someone not to do it or it just doesn't work, etc.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions and information. It is a lot to take in. I am working two 12 hour shifts this weekend with very little sleep, so I need to let it all sink in. I will read more on this website when I have time, and take all of your recommendations to heart.

Kat, my name is Terri and Midnight is starting on 1 unit lantus every 12 hours-ish. Due to may work schedule, it will be every 10-14 hours. I will try to get it as close to 12 hours as possible. There are several suggestions and links on this website about food brands, testing supplies, etc. I have to sort it all out. The only thing I know for sure is that I checked the dry purina DM the vet sold me, and it is 18% carbs.
 
Here is a summary sheet that may help. It s a steep learning curve but it soon becomes routine.. unless your cat goes into remission of course!!
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Rd6sMfsrNB41yQVEqpyjlHrJsDIbGEhbRIWR4QAwu3c/pub


The only thing I know for sure is that I checked the dry purina DM the vet sold me, and it is 18% carbs.
I would take that bag back and get a refund. Tell them Midnight doesnt like it. Many people here feed fancy feast classic pates or friskies pates or Wellness grain free varieties.

Try and shoot within 30minutes of the prior one if you can - Lantus works best on consistency.

Wendy
 
just checking in on how your making out, I had work stuff to do today so haven't been around.

Yes, there is a lot to learn and take in,but remember Knowledge is power and to have power over this disease is mind settling

Yes, your gonna wanna test before every shot< that sounds like a lot now, but when you make the connection of how much controll it gives you , your gonna be wanting to test more, most of do.

Yes, more often than not vets treat animal diabetis, much different than human diabetis. Thats why all of us here tend to follow the TightRegualtionProtocol.
You wouldn't shoot your child with insulin without knowing their BG so why do it with our fur babies.

Most vets don't expect companion animal gaurdians to invest the time or concern to care for their animals, but we do, and can tell you it gets easier and gives your kitty a chance to get into remission.
Ruben OTJ in a lil over a month.

Once you start testing the sooner you can switch food, the sooner you switch food, the sooner he has a chance to go OTJ.

Were all here for you and you will find this is the best place on earth, Everyone here is so so supportive and tend to know more than any vet I ever spoke with about FD. Keep in mind most vets (even internists) deal with a vary of illnesses, here only focuses on FD. Thats why there experts. (which I am by know means not :-D )
You can do this.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I am very grateful for the support. I need to let this sink in a little. I am working this weekend, 2 twelve hour shifts, with 4 hours of sleep in between. So between that and this, I am on the verge of tears. I need to process all the information over the next couple days. Thanks again.
 
thats ok - chill and read what everyone said and let it sink in.

Ask lots of questions. We are here to help.

Its a steep learning curve but it will get easier.. we promise! And before long you will have a happy kitty again and you will be here helping other newbies. :)

We will be looking to hear from you.
 
Hi Terri,

Welcome! There was something missing on the list of supplies you will need. Very important - syringes. You should buy syringes that are 30 units or less, 3/8 or 5/16, 29g, 3cc with 1/2 unit markings. You were wondering how you would tell what a half unit is, well if you buy the syringes that are pre-marked, it's easy. We usuallly change doses by Quarter or half doses so at least having the half marked is much easier. If you're in the position of having to wait until you use the ones you have up first, so be it, but if you do have to increase or decrease the dose, we do it by 1/4 unit usually so keep it in mind.

I've found that most people keep their vets for any other illnesses that may arise and bring their diabetics in about every 6 months or so for a checkup. They are more prone to a lot of things going wrong than a non-diabetic so checkups are a good thing but you can do a lot of it on your own. My vet is one of those who was unhappy about my insistence on testing and handling Racci's diabetes myself but she is now quite pleased with the results and says that Racci is doing much better than she expected her to do even with her handling her care because of Racci's old age, asthma, & weak immune system. She is regulated and almost always at normal numbers or almost normal (50-125) numbers or on our ss, blue and green or under 100 and under 200 bg. It's all because of this method of tight regulation and the help & support on this website. The vets just don't have the time to devote to your cat that the experts on this site will make for him. Therefore, they tell you to bring him in 2 weeks. Most people also can't afford to go in to the vet every day. A lot of people can't learn all they have to either. The vet has to do what is expedient for most people. That doesn't necessarily mean it is best for your cat. He does his best under the circumstances. Racci usually sees the vet every 3-6 months for one thing or another but rarely for diabetes. :lol:

You should also set up a spreadsheet and profile for Midnight as soon as possible so people can help you and you can track him.

Btw, I used to have a Midnight too. :razz:

Have a great night! You found the best place to help your baby.

Melanie & Racci
 
I just gave Midnight her "breakfast" (dry food). She ate about 1/3 of it (it is only 1/4 cup) and I gave her her insulin. She is a grazer and won't eat the whole bowl at once--it takes many hours. Anyway, I gave her about a tablespoon of wet food to try to see if she liked it, and I think she ate a bite or two. She then had diarrhea with some blood in it, and vomited. Which she almost never does. She also howled/cried, which she never does. Then she went back to her food bowl and ate a little dry food. What should I do? I called the vet office and left a message but they have no idea when the vet will call me back.
 
I'd definitely get her to the vet today. It could be an obstruction of some kind in her bowel. If you can see the blood, it is something to get checked out.
 
I totally agree with Sue. I seriously doubt it was the wet food EDIT-I mean that the food was bad or had toxins in it! I would call the vet now and just make an appointment for this a.m. or afternoon. Good luck and please keep us posted.
 
Is it fresh blood? This could be a reaction to too sudden a diet change - irritated bowel. Fresh blood means its lower intestine or even near the exit which isnt so bad just irritated.

Call the vet anyway though.
 
Looks like fresh, bright red blood. Not a lot. The vet office called me back and said not to worry unless it continues or she acts different--and then to bring her in. Thanks!
 
TMR said:
Looks like fresh, bright red blood. Not a lot. The vet office called me back and said not to worry unless it continues or she acts different--and then to bring her in. Thanks!

Was it a vet who said not to worry about a cat who is vomiting and has bloody diarrhea? I would call that as acting different since she does not usually vomit and have diarrhea as well as cry out when eliminating. It could be constipation issues, or even IBD, but I would want the vet to say a bit more.... ask about constipation and the possibility plus what to do about it, other than just watch.

I have a question about how your cat was diagnosed as diabetic - did the vet do a fructosamine test which is the average of your cat's blood sugar over the last couple weeks, or was it from just the glucose number on a meter test at the vet office, or maybe the glucose number on bloodwork done?
Also, do you know the number that made the vet decide your cat is diabetic?

That expensive 'diabetic' dry food from the vet? Take it back. Say your cat refuses to eat it and it's high carb which will just keep the insulin needs high. And no thank you, you do not want to buy some of the expensive 'diabetic' wet food from the vet.

Vomiting and diarrhea is also symptoms of constipation, and if blocked, you could still have some diarrhea and her crying could be from the discomfort. And illness, constipation, and even dental problems,can cause high BG numbers.

I'd call your vet and say it's NOT normal for your cat to act this way and you want to know the method by which your cat was diagnosed plus you want the test result value or if it was just by one glucose number - what that one number was.

If you are using Lantus or Levemir and are going to be doing a short turnaround this weekend, it may be an idea to be testing before that time so you know what your cat's BG are.... you will need to decide on a lesser dose to give between the two 12hr shifts, or maybe just skip that shot to be safe.... it all depends on the home testing numbers are.

If the numbers are very high, you may be able to give a lesser dose between the 2 shifts, but if your testing gives you lower numbers, you may want to try stopping the insulin and switching to all wet food. You have only just started on insulin, and even if your cat turns out to be diet controlled, you would still need a meter to test periodically to be sure she doesn't become in need of insulin help later on.

Since you work some shifts that are 12hrs, there will be some overlap in the insulin you are giving, so it will very important that you are home testing. I think others who have had odd shifts have altered their dose, giving less on the shorter period of time, but I am not sure how it would work if you work two 12hr shifts with such a short turnaround....

I think I'd ask the vet for numbers and details, then pick up a meter, Relion is very economical, and start testing.... who knows? Switch to all wet low carb food and the tests may show her numbers drop to levels not needing insulin!
 
Yes, the vet said the diarrhea/vom were nothing to worry about if it was just one time and then she ate afterwards. When she was diagnosed, they drew her blood and urine. I don't think it was a fructosamine test. I think it was just the glucose level on the blood draw. Her blood sugar was 491 and they said she was "dumping sugar" into her urine.
 
Ruben had vomit and diarrhea after switching food too. it ended up being Pancreatitus but was never confirmed. Not saying it is just keep an eye on her.
Your doing good, keep us posted
 
I thought I posted a reply a few days ago. I don't know if it was deleted or if it never went through. I think there is a lot of great information on this board. I must be honest. I get the impression that this is a board about home testing and wet food. I understand that people feel that those are the most important aspects in dealing with this disease. However, if someone doesn't want to home test or can't home test for whatever reason, it would be nice if the other people here would support their decision/situation and still be a resource for other aspects of the disease. The same with wet food. If the cat doesn't tolerate it (throws up, has diarrhea, or whatever) or just won't eat it, I would hope that the people here would still support that person. Diabetes is complicated. There is more to it than testing and food. There is insulin. There is the behavior of the cat. There is the emotions of the cat owners. There is the expense and time and effort that goes into caring for a diabetic cat. It is not just about testing and wet food. I would still be interested in participating here, but if I keep my cat on dry food because I have tried wet food and she won't eat it AND throws up and has diarrhea after eating it, can we drop that subject (with me, I mean)? I just got a home testing meter today and plan to home test, but I haven't decided how often. I might or might not do it before every insulin dose. It is my decision. I have to add here that I am going through some other unrelated really big things right now with my elderly father, both of my children, and myself. So I would like to feel like I can come to this board to get help dealing with my diabetic cat, but not feel unwelcome if I don't switch to wet food and home test several times every day. Thank you.
 
I forgot to even answer the question---how is Midnight doing. Her hunger is astronomical. We are working on getting the blood sugar under control and hopefully I will start giving her more food. Her thirst, urination, and bowel movements are pretty much normal. Her weight is stable (9 pounds). Her behavior is normal except for being hungry and not running to chase the laser pointer like she used to. She just stares at it.
 
It's your decision to do whatever you like. Members here just want to be sure you understand the issues at hand... It's a lot to take it for new members at first so we tend to repeat ourselves a bit to try and hope it sinks in.

Anyway it's a real shame midnight can't eat wet food. Unfortunately though High carb dry will make remission unlikely and the diabetes hard to regulate.

Have you considered a low carb dry food instead? As with any dry its not great for their kidneys since cats don't drink enough water but it could help make it easier to regulate her.

I can provide a list if you like? However if you aren't going to be home testing (at least before every shot and occasional mid cycle spot checks) then I wouldn't do this as again she could go into remission and have a hypo. (as many as 40% cats on low carb do go into remission within the first 4-6months of a low carb diet and insulin).

Also we do have other monitoring tools you could use , they aren't as accurate but better than nothing.

Let me know if you want more info.

Wendy
 
I have a home blood sugar meter. I will use it. I just haven't decided how often yet. I would be very grateful for a list of high protein/low carb dry foods. Thank you.
 
Yes, I understand the point about home testing. People have told me this over and over and over on this thread. I get it. Thanks.
 
Sorry for the hostility. I guess I was having a bad day. I do appreciate the support and suggestions here. I just hope that if I stay with low carb, high protein dry food and don't switch to wet food, that I will still be supported. And also, whether I chose to test Midnight's blood sugar several times every day or only sometimes, I will still be supported. I understand the rationale behind wet food and testing before each shot. I just have to decide what I am going to do. ON ANOTHER SUBJECT (sort of) I got my meter and I am going to do a curve in a few days, when I get back from vacation. The vet said to test every 2 hours and plot the results. Then he can suggest how much food and insulin to give. Now she is on 1/4 cup food and 1 unit lantus twice a day. Her blood sugars were 491 when first diagnosed, 245 two weeks later, and 407 two weeks after that (approximately-they may have been slightly different). Her fructosamine was 447, I think, which he said is very high. Any suggestions on doing the curve? And do most of you use a sliding scale with insulin doses (if the blood sugar is in a certain range, give a certain dose)? Also, do you give the amount of food that is suggested on the packaging, based on the weight of the cat? Does the amount of food you feed your cat ever change, based on her hunger level or her dose of insulin?
 
TMR said:
…And do most of you use a sliding scale with insulin doses (if the blood sugar is in a certain range, give a certain dose)? …

Most users of Lantus or Levemir do NOT use a sliding scale for dosing.
Some users of ProZinc, PZI, or NPH type insulins may use a sliding scale, if it works best for the cat.

The Secondary Monitoring Tools in my signature link include urine ketone monitoring. Ketones are a byproduct of fat breakdown; too many, and the cat may be in diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA). This is an expensive to treat, potentially fatal, complication of diabetes when it is not well regulated, the cat stops eating, and often infection is present.

The 5 Ps, or Whole Cat Report, focus on the normal behaviors you'd expect to see in a healthy cat - peeing, pooping, preening/grooming, playing, and purring. When all 5 of those are normal, the cat is usually doing fairly well.
 
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